well i believe that 1000w is going to be the future so im getting ready.

elbeghast has inspired me to build a 1000w mh projector.

here is the official 1000w forum
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9740

ive already ordered the ballast and im ordering the lamp monday.

so what are you getting bulbwise? any reflectors in mind? pro or standard triplet?

ok this will be my whole set up

14.1" dell sl340 lcd

135mm opaque projector lens

fs mirror after lens

2 120mm fans

220mm fresnel

550mm fresnel

2 peices of lexan

ir filter from diypc (maybe)

1000w MVR1000/U/BT37 4-5" diameter length 11.5

im kinda waiting for arizonavideo to do some reflector tests before i get a reflector

All I can say is sunscreen and shades. I'll be paying attention to these 1000w plogs scary but interesting.

yeah it most likely has a lot of uv in them. and a lot of ir. i hope my lcd will be okay. with my 400w system I only needed one 120mm fan and it worked out good for me. so hopefully 2 will be able to do it.

here are some pics to show what the size of the bulb is.


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another

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Have you figured out your focsing mount as yet? That the area that has caused me a few problems and since I'll be converting to a longthrow in a few our designs will be similar although in my pj I tried to cut off as much wood as possible starting from 5 inches above the lcd. you might want to think about using a fs mirror at a 45 degree angle to rflect your final image.

i think i know how i am going to fix it.

i was over at the diy german site and i saw this projector.

i think this is how i will do it. or something like this. but i dont know how he is keeping the mirror up.

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hey i got my ballast today. my capacitor is dent do you guys think its still usable or i should buy a new cap.

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Get a new cap. Dents in those hings is never good news.

I'll second that. Those caps are designed to take a monumental amount of abuse, but Im not sure about that one. Best to be safe. I would hazard a guess and say that blowing up a 1000w MH bulb might not be pretty.

Lots of caps have layers inside them so dent like that is not good and I would replace it.

Bill

If you have a choice between an oil filled cap and a dry film type, choose the film type as they last longer in the heat. Oil filled may be the only option for 1000W rig though.

[edit] Corrected terminology.

i kinda just wanna hook it up and see if its gonna work or not. but im afraid that ill bow my bulb or something

It could quite possibly blow the ballast. I don't know the internal wiring of a ballast, but a cap squished that much might have ruptured a membrane. That means the two conducters inside are in contact, causing a short. And shorts are never a good thing (unless you are working with ultra high voltages and deliberately arcing equipment, but that's another matter entirely).

shorts are bad, but a magnetic ballast is just a transformer and a cap.

Pprimary = Psecondary

A short on the secondary side, will result in an effective short on the primary side, which would instantly blow the fuse/circuit breaker.

Also, the cap is probably wired is series, whereas all current flows through the cap and then on to the bulb. If a short were to happen in this case, then it would be as if the cap wasnt there, and that that would just lower the effeiency and underpower the bulb. (no power factor correction)

The cap in a magnetic ballast serves as a power factor correction. No cap = less power to bulb.

gosh i hope this doesnt end up being a problem but i dont really have much money right now. but i will eventually buy another cap. but for now im just going to see how this one works.

anyways my bulb got shipped or gets shipped tommorrow. so i wont get to see my projector for super bowl XL. i think the bulb will be here monday.

ups ssays that my bulb will be here on tuesday.

2 issues. the capacitor. and i think im just going to go for it

so i guess i only have 1 issue. COOLING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i think im gonna have 1 fan sucking air from the bottom and another fan blowing on the lcd and fresnels. does anybody think that will be enough.

i dont really wanna buy an ir filter.

oh and im using 2 pieces of lexan before the fresnels and it is an unsplit design.

You listed a 550mm and a 220mm Fresnel. The 220mm rears Fresnel will waste a huge amount of light and put the lamp vary close the Fresnel. Its gona be real hot.
A 330mm will give you slightly less brightness in the middle but be way more even end to end and easer to cool.

All of the reflector systems that I am working on will be with a 550mm or 650mm rear Fresnel. If I can't beat the 330mm 1000watt combo then I will go for that. It is simple and works just like the old system just brighter.

well i would do that but i dont have an extra 330mm fresnel and i really dont wanna go out and buy a new one.

so im going to use it for a couple of hours and if it works good then that would be cool. if it doesnt then i think im gonna go out and purchase a ir filter from diypc.

i think ill be using 1 120mm fan at the bottom to suck out air.

and 1 120mm fan to blow on lcd and fresnels. and 1 80mm fan to blow on lcd and fresnels..


im hoping that extra fan will help

oh yeah i get my bulb today

well arizona video you were right.

dont try and use 1000w with a 220mm rear fresnel.

get a 330mm fresnel.

well it looks like now im looking for a 330mm fresnel.

The reason elbeghast pj works so well is it has the 330mm rear Fresnel and the 80mm clear glass triplet.
To keep the same ratio your triplet would have to be a little larger. You can cheat a little by moving the front Fresnel forward a little this will reduce the fl of the front lens system and make the arc image smaller. It will also make the throw wider or shorter but an inch won’t kill you.. Give it a try.

yeah the brightness that I was recieving was that of my 400w setup.

so this is what im planning on doing.

im going to go with the standard setup, and i have a unsplit ohp fresnel. and i think it is 10.5 x 10.5 so i wont be able to see the whole lcd, but i can get most of it.

it would also be nice to have a reflector, but that doesnt look like its happening.

and according to the calculations, i should be able to fit the whole arc in my lens. i have a 135mm triplet.

so i think its 135* 330/550= arc

You might check to see if you have a place near where you live that repairs OHPs...you might be able to pick up a larger fresnel. Mine for instance is 11.25 inches and is from a 3M 9550.

Just a thought.

you know thats a good idea. I think right now im going to go to the media center at school and ask if they have any junk projectors that are beyond repair.

wish me luck

Hey benjimatt,what are you using for your FS mirror?Are you using an OHP head?

spk gave me a spare 6x8 piece of fs mirror. so i got my fs mirror.

Awesome sounds like you've almost got your build together.Can't wait to see some screenshots.
Your 135mm triplet,is that the FL or the width?

that is the diameter of the lens.

i believe the focal length is 450mm

it came off of a opaque projector. but i am eventually going to order a new one because there is a crack in this one. but that wont be for a while.

well now my rear fresnel is going to be a 317mm fresnel thanks to elbeghast. so if i did the eqation right the arc will be magnified to

550(front fresnel)\317(rear fresnel) * 80(arc length) 138.8mm well my triplet is only about 135mm but this should suffice. and my lcd will be farther so hopefully it wont all melt.

i have found out some new specs on my bulb. it is a universal mount bulb, and it has 115,000 lumens vertical , and 104,000 horizontal.

I believe mine is a horizontal mount only with 119,000 lumens.Do you know your color temp? I saw simul8r's plog and his has a greenish tint to it(no offense simul8r-I love your design!).Mine looks really good at 5200k.Everything appears to be the correct color.It seems like 5200k lamps are hard to find in the 1000w range though.

How tall is your HAAS style going to be with that 317mm/superfresnel combo? And,are you going FS mirror pre or post triplet?My "chevy vega" projector is going to get overhauled into a sleek video projecting machine and I am extremely curious as to how yours turns out.I believe we are on to something with this 1000w stuff.We're taking brightness from "acceptible" to "exceptional"......sounds like a good slogon to me.

yeah i think my color temp is about 4000k but im going to check it out.
oh and im not doing a haas style anymore. its just going to be standar with vertical and long throw. and the fs mirror will be on top after triplet

yeah i think my color temp is about 4000k but im going to check it out.
oh and im not doing a haas style anymore. its just going to be standar with vertical and long throw. and the fs mirror will be on top after triplet

That looks like plenty of cooling to me.I now have just one fan sucking the hot air out of my projector.I have no glass or lexan or anything else between any of my parts.Just a lamp on bottom-then fresnel(sandwiched OHP type)-then lcd-and lastly the triplet.I did,however,strategically drill my intake holes to pull the air across the lcd panel and into the light box before going out through my exhaust fan.My fresnel suffers no ill effects as it doesn't begin to distort until it reaches over 200degF and my light box stays around 100degF.I don't think cooling is as big of an issue with the 330mm rear as it is with the 220mm rear.With a 220mm rear,I developed a black spot on my lcd only seconds after my lamp warmed up(luckily went away after powering down lamp).I've run steady for days now with 330mm rear and absolutely no ill effects.I believe 330mm is definately the way to go with 1000 watt setups.

Sorry to hear that.A haas would have been nice.You could probably still sell your unfinished haas to someone.It would still make a nice 400watt setup.
If you want to use that hinged lid idea from page 1 you could use a piano stool lid prop(not sure exactly what they are called) or a good solid telescopic radio antenna.Just an idea.

Did you ever do anything with your dented capacitor?Does it still work?

yeah thats what happened to me. after about 15 minutes i got a black spot on the lcd, so i cooled it off and it went away.

yeah hopefully when i push it back i will be able to use less fan power. although im getting a 317mm fresnel from you i think i still wanna see how a 330mm fresnel will look. i also need to find some kind of big area for my bulb. kinda like your white thing that u have. but thats too big for me.

hmmm a piano stool lid. but they dont stay up. i would need something the would stay there. ya know.

and i dont know what a telescopic radio antenna looks like so i cant really comment on that.

my dented capacitor is working but i dont know if my bulb is going all the way up to 1000w. when i did my first test with the 220mm fresnel it was really dim, but im hoping that was from all of the light leaks and it being uncentered.

hopefully it is not affecting my light, but if it is ill have to buy another one which costs just as much as the whole ballast kit

PM me all the information printed on the dented capacitor.I may be able to find you one.I have access to all kinds of stuff like that.

here are the specs for my capacitor.

CLASS N

CW Auto Transformer

Capacitor 24uF 480vac 60hz 100C MAX.

this was offf where i bought it. i can take a pic of the label if nesessary

i just found out that my bulb is only 3700k

I got a question about those pictures of project first picture standing upright with a single mirror after the lense. I have not started to build mine yet and was wondering if it require keystoning if you use the mirror after the lense(provided its going strait onto a wall mirror at a 45)? If so this seems like a eligant way to go for a beginner to go reducing the footprint of the projector possibly putting it behind a sofa or something.

I basically want to build the standard box but I dont want to to take up the bulk of my living room, a folded mirror inside the box seems like to many things could go wrong with the focusing of the image. This seems like it would solve both my issues.

Welcome to Lumenlabs Wallbasher!
The vertical design with mirror after lens triplet requires no keystoning at all,provided your projector is exactly vertical and properly lined up (I.E.,same vertical and horizontal plane)with the center of the screen and your mirror is at 45 deg angle.I fold mine after the triplet.It works great.Just be sure your mirror is a Front Surfaced mirror.

Thanks benjimatt I'll see what I can dig up.

well i got my 317mm fresnel on wednesday.

i just stripped down the cabinet now im going to see if i can cut it tonight.

but my bulb is only 3700k so i hope the image doesnt come out horrible.