I am about to start making my first project. Have read many post and so many great designs. I have to admit I am impressed, this is coming from a person that has build many project (even a go kart). I will do Hass box style design.

There are many great designs and ideas which are great. I have seen so many then I got lost.
What part of projector should be adjustable and which once can be fixed?

• For example, I know that distance and vertical position of bulb to tempered glass should be adjustable (call it length A).
• Length between glass and first Fresnel (, does it need to be adjustable?
• From that Fresnel to LCD ( C ) and From LCF to last Fresnel (D). To me it looks like that B,C,D do not need to be movable and length between does not need to be changed, they have to perfectly vertically alighted but that’s it, right?
• And finally from last Fresnel to lens (E) need to be adjustable for focusing. I will do a setup where last Fresnel will be able to tilt since I will need keystoning.

Light –A-Glass – B – Fresnel – C – LCD – F – Fresnel -> D Lens

What should be adjustable length on all these points. I have red that D should be +/- 5cm

Please help since I need clarification on this… Thanks..


Sadik

Keep in mind it is possible to build one with nothing adjustable, but then your projector is only good from one fixed distance.

With that said I would say for sure make the lens and light adjustable, and if you want to project at an angle, make your fresnel closest to the lens adjustable for keystoning.

Then again it doesn't hurt to have everything adjustable, thats the route I am going.

Really you will want everything adjustable. You won't be content until you've moved it all around to every possible position to get it just right.

Firstly,welcome to the forum and your planned Hass style pj build.

Based on my personal build experience, and reading many plogs of others here alone the way. Some suggestions regarding which parts should be adjustable vs fixed.

Working from back to front of the pj, assuming the standard 15" design:

Lamp fixture - adjustable in both x-y axis, up/down as well as side to side. shouldn't need more than +/- 1.5 - 2cm of adustable travel.

Heatsheild - tempered glass or lexan , Fixed.

220 rear fresnel - Fixed 15mm from LCD's first surface.

LCD - Fixed

317 front fresnel - Fixed, with the exception of tilt for keystoning.

Note: regardless of which way the fresnel is tilted away from the lcd for keystone. One edge, depending if you plan to ceiling mount or closer to the floor, should be no more than 20mm distant from the lcd panel.

Triplet, or Objective lens - Adjustable, +/- 5cm range is good.

Note: regarding the fixed fresnels. For best results in over all light transmission try an allow a few milimeters of side-side adjustability.
This allows you to line up the fresnels centers more precisely.

So building in as much tweakability in the adjustable parts outlined can make the difference between a brite even projection and a lack-luster one.

MJames

Great... .
This is what I was thinking... It makes sance.. Thanks..

I'll put in my 2c worth:

Lamp: Up/down; Left Wall/Right Wall; Forward/Back.

Reflector: Same as Lamp and should "ride" with the lamp. ie. changing the position of the lamp should not change the relative reflector/lamp positioning.

Collector fresnel: forward back. This becomes critical if you strip antiglare.

LCD: Fixed

Field fresnel: Up/Down; Forward/Back; Left Wall/Right wall; Tilt for keystone. Adjustment is Critical for centering the light onto the triplet.

Triplet: Fixed.

Other than that, make sure that all components are CENTERED between the line extening from the lamp arc to the triplet.

Good Luck

Fixed Triplet!?? I guess you're going to focus by moving the whole projector... that dosn't cut it for me.

Correction:

TRIPLET: in and out

So obvious I missed it