So I decided to make my projector. At first I need to appologize for my bad english while I'm from Holland. So what parts do I want to use?

Benq fp557s v2-> ordered
Lenses -> ordered
Philips HPI-T 400w metal halide -> Got it
Ballast-> Got it
220volts fan-> got it
box made out of 18mm MDF-> got it but not yet ready

Then I have a few pictures:

Kewl, Keep it goin man..

I hope to get my bulb+ballast tomorrow!
New pictures come when my ulb+ballast have arrived

Today somebody brought me a present
Now I only have to know how to wire that whole bunch together

I got a ballast, a Ignitor, a condensator and a socket with bulb.

Does anybody know how to wire this whole thing?

Is that an electronic ballast?

If not RCL has a nice post HERE with the wiring etc

Yes I think it's electronic.
I wired everything and tried-> it burnt!
Now I only have to wait for the lcd and the lenses

So I installed the Socket (not permanent) Ballast and the other 2 components. I only need to rewire it for a nice look. Don't mention al the tools and cable's.

That's a magnetic ballast (not electronic).

Looks great Bios

And I like the woodwork also, minus the fan hole but you can make fun of mine when I hack it out

Haha, for my fan I'm going to use a louver, so that hole doesn't really matter. I made my wiring look a bit better:

Don't mention the place of the bulb, I know it's not in the middel. I wait for my lcd and lenses before I permanent mount my bulb.

Hey man your lamp's not centered...hehe

I could have expected such an answer

Good job with the lines on the floor too, great way to make sure nothing gets in the way.

I tried to make some aluminium that would fitt. But that was a bit hard. Here are some pictures. Now I have a problem: My bulb will not burn. I thing it's a defect ignitor or something. Anyway:






A big louver

I know I have much pictures. I made some adjustments today, starting a focus mechanisme and a mechanisme to lift the top.

after 15 seconds:


after 60 seconds:

Ni Biotom,

Lookin good! Can you tell me the exact model No of that bulb? We've been having trouble finding something suitable in Australia and that looks alot like one that philips sell here...

Thanks and keep up the pics...

Cheers,
Arkay.

I use a Philips HPI-T Master. Thats a 400watt metal halide bulb

hey i like the idea of having your lid open with hinges on the other end - i think am gonna do that also

Some guy on the internet chat told/commanded me to take many pictures. So here are 2 new from the switches.

Nice scooter, I like the flames on the paint.

I see two possible problems. The duct you built to cover the ballast has a narrow opening. The air-flow may not be enough.

The second problem is that you appear to have used regular duct tape to seal the seam with. That tape will not handle the high heat very well, and it may catch fire. Perhaps you can use a 90 degree angle, made of aluminum, to cover the gap and attach the two pieces together using screws or rivets.

Yes tony, I know what you mean. I buy some L profiles in stead of that duct tape. And maybe make a large opening at the end of my air channel.
By the way my scooter is for sale

you could use some aluminum tape
peter

I was looking for that. But I was desperate and used duct tape to see how it would fitt and look. I'm looking for another option than duct-tape

the alumn tape would not stick when it gets that hot i would imagine

Than I have to use aluminium strips with some poping nales (if you know what that are).

yea i would use a rivet gun thats what my projector is made with "alumn angles for the frame" riveted together.

Wassup Tom,

Nice work so far, very clean switch work, make me wanna change mine. I have those huge wall switches.
I had one concern, correct me if I'm wrong, in your 2nd pic it shows the "tunnel" for the air passage to your ballast. It seems a bit small for the cfm being pulled by the fan. Do you think this opening will restrict the flow too much? Just an observation.

Aw crap I just noticed I just repeated what someone else already posted, my bad...maybe I should read first...i feel abit sheepish

I made some changes I used popping nales to constuct the air tunnel. And I made the opening A bit bigger. When this will not be enough, I use a 2e fan in the left corner.
Some pictures of the results:

looking good tom, can't wait to see it finished.

Today I made some kind of focussing system. Is a Box in Box principe just like kjudki but then a little bigger. I like his design so I tried it out, and it works well!!
Maybe I have to cut out some wood out of the moveable box for the lcd control+power supply.

Looks good, what's the black tape looking stuff on the top of your projector lens adjuster? Is that felt of some sort to help it slide easier?

Uhm, Í don't know how you call that in amerika but here in The Netherlands we call it Klittenband, mostly you can find it on jackets or some shoes. 1 side has hooks and the other side is just hairy. When you put these together they stick together. I hope you know what I mean. I used the soft and hairy side of those two, 1 it slides better and 2 it will fill up the holes between the two boxes, so the boxes are tighter together. It's hard to explain in english because my English isn't optimal

That sounds like a velcro to me.

Yes, I searched on google for Velcro. Thats the same stuff, I only use the soft side.

Yup Yup, Velcro

Toms heres the focus box i made on my 1st projector.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...findpost&p=7041

Very little update, mounted some things to hold on.

Biotom,
Can you give me some info about your lamp ?. I tried to look for information about it, and found none regarding color temp and CRI.


Btw, are you sure it is smart to identify yourself with the Iranian BIOTOMs ? ("Bio Terrorist Organized Militants") .

Haha Never ever heard of that shortcut. No it wasn't realy my purpose

Lets see if I can give you some information about my lamp:

http://www.eur.lighting.philips.com/int_en..._hpi_t_plus.pdf

Thanks for the info. (btw, I was only joking up there )

Haha you silly bast*rd

Looks good. You'll find that when you get everything in place and are ready to actually focus an image that you only need a few inches of sliding adjustment. The velcro (klittenband) works great. Doesn't it? Just don't use it near your LCD since it can throw off little hairy pieces that may contaminate your image.

Yes it works realy nice, but I don't think it will be a big problem with the lcd panel.

Very very nice biotom, you obviously have put more work into your measurements and building than I. Looks great.

Tom your final projected Image is nice, You have done a really good job, and taking your time and making sure everything is lined up and measured right if very important.

yes, measure three or four times, start to cut, decide to measure again, start to cut again, measure once more just to make sure, then cut.

You left off, 'start over'.

Very true brain. My stepdad's table saw only went up to 12in for the guide so I had to use a circular saw on most of it so once the thing got going if it went off track things get interesting.

No I think 1 time measuring is enough. And If I cut it wrong, i just buy a new piece of wood.