First of all, thank you to Tmproff and Haasman. We were using Tmproff's PLOG as a general guide for doing our PJ. I say "our" because I am building my PJ along with a friend (another LL member)


Tmproff's Hassman PJ, Beautiful design, Beautiful results




Bulb: Venture Lamp 40124 Type ED28
Reflector: Stainless Steel Scrubby Holder
LL Lens Kit
Dell Monitor: 1505FP 15"

400:1 contrast
16 ms response
.297 dot pitch

Ballast 400W PS MH Quad CWA core and Coil
Base Socket
2 Thermaltake Smart Fan 80 MM fans - (20.55-75.7cfm 17-48dBA)
You can use an included speed adjustment fan OR there is a thermal sensor in the fant to let it control its own speed depending on temperature. When i get the PJ finished I will play with it.



First thing done was stripping the LCD

No need to rehash that... this guide covers it in detail http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8214

2nd thing was removing the anti-glare coating.... The soak method was used

Soak for about 8 hours



comes right off

Next had the Haas diagrams blown up at kinkos and glued to some cardboard





We roughed out 4 with a jigsaw then clamped them together for some sanding.

Were using 3/4 MDF for the box sides and 1/2" MDF for the focus box



Run them through the routing table with a roundover bit



4 sides almost done



Route the groove by clamping one piece to the other with the proper offset for the tool your using. I used a Skil Router so it was a bit over 3" offset

We then used a drill press to put quarter inch holes in the piece for the dowels.
And here it is all screwed together




Using some wood paneling stuff for the top and the bottom. $10 bucks for a 8' x 4' sheet



cutting out fan holes with my helpers



Big old fan hole with drill press


Starting on the LCD sled by making some grooves with the table saw

Here is our mechanism for focus





Thats all for now... more later

Now thats a lot of MDF Dust, (Where is your mask)?????????

good job so far, helps to show people how thay can make a hass with the right tools.

Joe

Thanks for the kudos guys. I'm so glad I could be of assistance.

Good luck guys, I'll be watching.

The mask is a good idea. I had some interesting boogers that night!

I use to do a lot of work with MDF - wear a mask - the boogers are the least of your concerns

Love the work you've done so far! I like the idea of building in tandem....

Dave

beautifully done. can't wait to see your completion. please post more pix, thanks

More work on the projector. Probably won't get a chance to finish it up for another few weeks.


Mask was worn!


A cluttered workspace!



Sizing up the reflectors

Lets find the center using the tangent method



We drew the half circle using the punched out hole as a guide from the hole saw



Ready to reflect

The edge is rough but who cares? Its inside where nobody will see it



Bootleg mount with piece of aluminum



The fit is money baby!

Fashioned a jig to cut groove in dowel rod for gravity keystone



Ready to rock on through



Going through, wow something i did seems to work for a change

I broke an LCD :angry: :angry: but on the bright side it is handy to have the trash for test fitting purposes



Look at all that saw dust in the air... where is your mask jon?????????????????



Some hot lexan action




Stay tuned..........

Testing out the lamp



It is bright!



This box holds the ballast. It will be mounted to a ceiling joist above a drop ceiling in my basement. My partner is mounting his inside his stand where it won't be seen. We put holes in it in case it needed some air

For our wiring we decided to use two plugs. The ballast is on its own plug and the fans / LCD are on another plug. This simplifies the wiring so that we didn't have to add a breaker.

Here is the first results. The image quality is very good but this picture is poor. Also keep in mind the wall is green.



My box wasn't tall enough for the gravity keystone to swing. It was flush to the bottom (the lense)

I need to shave my dowel down significantly to get it to keystone. These adjustments will be made in the home stretch here

And as always please excercise caution when using power tools

Wow, when I first saw that I thought it was real ...yeah I'm pretty gullible, thats a sick joke to all us laid back surfers to see this arm being cut off.

Its nice you have that shop to work in, all of us less fortunates have to work in our basements, or wherever we find space. All those tools you have like the hole cutter really bother me because I definately dont have money for a big table drill, so I bought an adjustable hole cutter drill bit...lets just say they don't work to well, it gets the job done, but expect to sand a lot.

I like the way you put your ballast in the box, don't know about cooling or burning the wood though...It definately beats picking up this weird awkward ballast with all these coils and crap on it then going to picking up wooden bo.

Glad you appreciated the joke!

By the way my 20 dollar hole saw bits don't exactly make clean holes... You get what you pay for has never been truer than when it comes to tools. Harbor freight is good for some things though. They have the cheapest clamps

My partner sent this result picture over from his setup. The projection is 156in (10' X 7.5')

Stripped my new LCD (since I broke my 1505FP) last night and removed the anti-glare. It went very well. I took pictures so I will post a stripping guide soon.

I went with the Westinghouse LCM-15v5 and got a refurbished one from ecost.com for 150 shipped.

http://www.shop.com/op/aprod-p35499018-k24...over?sourceid=3

15"
450:1 contrast ratio
16ms response time
1024 x 768 native

Slightly better specs than the dell.. though not worth breaking $180 dollars worth of monitor.

The strip was easy, as someone on the compatibility thread so eloquently posted

"It stripped faster than paris hilton"


After I get that panel in there and everything tweaked I am going to start on my ceiling mount.

My goal is a 80 to 90" projection which is about the biggest I can manage in my space.

I have a drop ceiling so my current plan is to carve a hole out of that ceiling and mount the projector so that most of it is actually inside the ceiling. I figure I will mount it by putting a bolt through either side and on the other side using a wing nut and a lock washer. The stock will be mounted directly to the ceiling joists.

Step one is running the VGA and power cables through the ceiling and mounting my ballast box.

I am rebuilding my ballast box to include a fan. Someone reccomended this to me. Does the ballast get really hot to the point that it needs a fan? Anyone?

My lumenlab e-ballast gets pretty freaking hot. I wouldn't enclose it without cooling.

After doing some forum searching apparently the coil & core ballast runs very hot so I will definately be adding an 80MM fan to the box.

Nick

I was so surprised by the heat that I added 2 80mm fans...

Dave

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811999206

Just picked up these fan filters from newegg.com I think they will be a nice way to block the light leakage out of my fans

I have similar fan covers except they are for the 120mm fan - the filter really seems to restrict the airflow out of the projector though. While I have yet to test them with the big bulb on, it seems that they will allow quite a lot of light leakage. My fans have the red LED dress up kit and I haven't cut their power yet, and I am able to see the red LED's even with the fan covers in place. I think I may fabricate some kind of louver design.

Though I have never used them myself, I would suggest louvers to cover your fans. Those will probably block the majority of light, though I'm not too sure how much of a hit you will see in terms of airflow.

I went with the PCAC fans because I think their ducted design will prevent light leakage. But only time will tell....

Good Luck,
Nick

Westinghouse LCM-15v5 Stripping Guide



First unscrew some screws on the back of the LCD



Get these with some plyers



Get the 4 screws on the stand

After the plastic is off get the rest of the screws holding the back on



Gently pry up FFC which is glued on and disconnect it from the power supply



Not Pictured... remove frame on LCD gently using your fingers only. I didn't feel it required a flat head to pry.

Now gently lay out the LCD as shown. I laid down a towel on my workspace. I suggest doing this


I took a pocket knife and bent up these tabs holding these metal things in place

Once thats off all you have to do is unscrew the powersupply and control board




Your done

anti-glare mod

Set LCD on towel

First off take some plastic wrap and scotch tape and mask off the electronics as shown




Take about 8 layers worth of paper towels and completely cover the LCD



Fill up a 16oz glass and pour the contents onto the paper towels



Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 4 hours. In 4 hours come back again and dump another 16oz of water on the same paper towels.

Go to sleep.


wake up approximately 8 hours later and peel the Anti-glare off



Before you test your LCD remove it from the wet towel and allow to dry for a few hours

UPDATE: This is what the LCD looks like while soaking




I left my buttons mounted and will cut that portion of the frame off for mounting on my PJ

Everything is out of the PJ so it can get a fresh coat of paint tonight.

I am making something like this



this weekend. I plan to rig it up like this between two ceiling joists


I will be cutting the hole in my ceiling and running all of the wires first and rig up the new & improved ballast box. I have to take down the main light for the room because it is in the way so i have to rig up some wall sconces so the wife will be happy.

Got a great deal on a VGA cable

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product....format=2&style=

I have some louvers. I will use them if the filters I ordered don't work out.

Your panels layout is very similar to the CMV 522a at least the fc connections, are they the snap off connections or the ones with the hinge? I saw a few Westinghouse panels pretty cheap but wasn't sure if it was compatible.

I didn't disconnect anything except for the flat cable that is for the buttons. That just slid in place and is held in with just friction it seems. The connectors from the bottom of the panel that connect the circuit boards I didn't want to mess with them because I have broken a few monitors already

Man I'm so glad someone finally posted some specific info on the Westinghouse, especially the AG mod. I have the same monitor and I am just about to mount it in my box. I was wondering, when you removed the AG, did you use distilled water or just tap? I also wanted to double check the times... 4 hours initial soak, add more water, then 8 more hours before peeling? (so 12 hours total soak time?). Is it really as simple as you made it look in the pictures

Great plog man! Keep up the good work!

Hello I have well water at my house. Although my partner removed the AG on his dell just fine with Tap. Honestly i don't think it makes a difference because the LCD is easy to clean (unlike the fresnel lenses)

Nick

I got those filters in the mail and i don't think they will work, they will let lots of light through. i am going with louvers instead

I expect to have decent results pictures as well as pics of my ceiling rig up this weekend

Got my blackout cloth yesterday at joeanns!

stay tuned

Nick

I have mine cieling mounted the same way. It works great. The tiles muffle the fan slightly and you don't have to be concerned about light leaks on top and behind your projector. They end up above the cieling tiles.

A good way to turn it on and off is simply plug it into a surge protector and leave the on/off switch on the projector in the "on" position. then use the reset button on your surge protector to turn your pj on and off.

I don't have an on/off switch on my PJ. I have one plug coming out of my ballast box (which is now mounted wiht a fan) and one plug coming out of my box.

I just went to Lowes and bought 2 medium duty extension cords and pulled them and a VGA cable through the ceiling... cut a little hole in and plugged the cables into two seperate surge protectors... labeled one fans/lcd and the other ballast /bulb.

Pictures this weekend when I finalize the projector mount.

I ended up having to put a "wart" on the bottom of my PJ in order to keystone. The lense was hitting the circuit boards from the LCD so I had to cut a hole in the bottom and mount the circuit boards lower.

I really wish i had used a guide on my router when i made the grooves for the lid. I used one piece clamped to the other to do it and it ended up leaving a bigger lip in the center of the box. THUS less room top to bottom. Others haven't had this problem, but I guess I am not much of a woodworker!

Oh well.... its not that big of a deal

Also don't use the epoxy that you have to mix. I didn't mix mine perfectly on my keystone lense and some didn't cure correctly so it ran down onto my lense a bit. I don't know right now if it is an issue for my picture. I will find out this weekend, but potentially i need to order new lenses!

what is a wart

I got the term from these boards. It refers to when you have to cut your box and make a little enclosure to mount to the ouside of your box in order to mount something outside of the box that did not fit inside. Not to be confused with "wall wart" which is something else. I don't know where i picked it up from. Some other PLOG i think

I hope this makes sense. if not then i guess wait for the pics

That lcd REALLY looks like the cmv 529a. I am in the process of trying to find out what is wrong with mine, I have the cmv. The cmv has ag on both sides - does the westinghouse??
Nice job so far, can't wait to see the screenies.
Don't bum about the keystone, there are always adjustments to make when everything gets put in place.

I could be wrong but I am pretty sure that AG is only on the front. The other side that looks like AG is actually a polarizer. DO NOT REMOVE THAT! You need the polarizer.

the keystone isn't an issue anymore. what i am bummed about is my imperfect haas. LOL seems like I keep making it crappier and crappier... It started out so pretty! Cut this, this doesn't fit, cut that, the lip on the back has a nice crack on it... LOL i would be watching movies right now if I made a dog coffin. Ha. Not saying you shouldn't make a HAAS. I think it is awsome! Its just a little tight to deal with. I think when its done I will feel it is worth it. I just have this knot in my stomach and a little voice keeps saying "Your going to break it, your going to break it!"

I have been having nightmares!

I had the same feeling during a couple spots when building mine.
It is worth it though when you see how good it looks when your done you will flip.
It was a huge relief when I finally finished mine and everything breakable was mounted.

wow that sounds really confusing. ill just wait for pics lol

Its not confusing. Basically in english I didn't have room for the circuit boards inside the box so I had to mount them outside the box. I had to put an enclosure arouind them though which is attached to the bottom of the box. That's what I was calling the "wart"

Ok later

oh ok that was explained a lot simpler. i get it now. lol

ladieu what is the inside dimensions of your box? I have the CMV 522A and though the boards were tight they still fit. One difference is I made an extension for power board.