Firstly, a very Happy Birthday to all at LL! May your light shine on
I hope this proves useful to other Liquidvision owners, as i know that this 15"er is a favourite here on the labs.
After reading another account (sorry, can't quite remember names or dates as that thread was over 3000 posts long!) i can report that the rag soaking method doesnt work too well for this panel. And it's called "liquidvision" ( ahh the irony) .
However after a 12 hr soak without success i dried everything off and slowly and carefully peeled up the complete AG/polar bear sheet..one piece..go slow with this, it does take quite a bit of force..i used a hardback book to secure the panel while i pryed the layer off. I really didnt fancy the sanding/stripper approach..

So i'm left with an unpolarized panel, (still works after powerup and peeking through removed polarizer)
As it stands, i'm looking to purchase a replacement but after reading up on the developing polarizer discussions i took to tinkering and made a few discoveries of my own. Basically i think ( ) i can confirm that the polarizer replacement for this panel is of the 45 degree alignment..I was rolling a piece of the polar bear around in my hands to get an idea of its consistency when i heard a subtle cracking sound. This only worked in one direction. but it left a distint pattern of 45 lines behind. The pictures below whilst taken on a crappy digital camera seem to show this quiet well..perhaps im wrong about all this but i thought it might provoke a bit of discussion about what polarizer for what panel etc,. up for discussion.,.


90deg against a lit CRT shows an even pattern

Click to view attachment




45deg now shows faint vertical lines..(much more evident in real life) but u get the point..

Click to view attachment

Foxy take a section of your removed polar bear and use stripper to get rid of A/G,,, then put that section behind your triplet,,, that works too...

I have been using mine this way for over three months now,,, but this only works if you reverse your panel too,,, actually I went vertical, saves from having too using reverse image software...

thanks for the reply elken

was planning on trying it later today!
couple of quesitons if you can answer them...

-how does your method work in comparison to the original attached polarbear?

-are you planning on reattaching a new polarizer to your panel at any point?


cheers

foxy

That is the infamous "grain". It occurs with polarizers that have been stressed. Fold the polarizer over edge to edge. If it goes black, it is a 45, if not it is either a 90 or a 0.

Foxy,,,

It works far better than the orig, attached method,,

At this stage I am continuing with triplet method,, I mucg prefer it to using full size sheet and the issues involved in mounting such..

however my method, requires, a vertical projector, because of panel facing (orig a/g side) the triplet..

also I have now concluded that vertical is much better for many reasons

thanks elken

unfortunately i fully dunked my ag/polarbear combo to remove the ag, which worked perfectly - unlike trying the rag method on the panel..however, the somewhere during the peeling from panel/dunking process i believe i have induced the grain effect all over my now a/g-free polar.. ..so i am assuming its useless..
perhaps though, a section of it behind the triplet as you mentioned will not show up the grain as it's not being focused upon as in it's former location, but i would still be worried about its transmissiveness, knowing that it's structure has been compromised...

why oh why didnt the a/g come straight off the panel!!! :angry:

I'm now on the hunt for replacement polarizer film..i've hunted these forums so intensely but cannot hit upon anyone who has purchased and successfully used a new polarizer...

Is there a cure !!

ummmmm.... try 3dlens.com they have sheets,,, but only buy the non adhesive version,, I am using a small bit sent to me by MEYER2, who bought sheets two months ago,, Oh sorry it was Ozstang who bought it..

it works very well,,

and a PS,, wehn you get a sheet, get it big enough to cut a 45 degree piece out of it...

The last few pages of the main thread are on the release of a very nice polarizer from polarization.com. It is the best one we have found so far. Problem is you have to pay for a large sheet so its 70$. Good news is, you would have a replacement replacement.

Several people have replaced the polarizers.

I don't know why the anti-glare came off with a full dunk. Is it possible you didn't rag with enough water? Or that it really was ready to go?

FWIW: The dunk method is almost always going to create grain. The rag method was designed to solve this as well as other application issues.

thanks for the info Mark

I take it you cannot do a full adhered replacement of the polarbear, as smoothing out any disceprancies would be pretty tricky. are people simply clipping their new polarizer onto the panel?

foxy

Just for the record, Ive just ordered myself a piece of 24"x20" super high contrast polarizer w/o adhesive. (the $70 piece) thanks to Mark for the pointers..
Just a shame i live in the uk as the shipping is a bit of a sting!
Still ill have a spare out of that hopefully!
How have others managed to install their sheets? I'm under the asumption that they can simply be taped/clipped to the panel...

any thoughts on this would be welcome..

One more quick question

does this polarizer appear pretty transparent as the manufacturer states.?
They say it's "neutral" - i was wondering if anyone can tell me how grey or otherwise it is?

cheers

Neutral means it has no color shift. Just as much of every color makes it through (roughly). The polarizer itself has a pretty outstanding transmittance as discussed in the main thread. It isn't the best we could possibly get. But it is really close and currently is our best source.

Yes, you simply place the polarizer over the panel or triplet. No glue.

the polarizer must be oriented the same as the old one, so you need to establish the polarization axis of the old polarizer. Basically if you lay the old polarizer over the new one exactly in the orientation it came off, and dial the new one's angle until the stack is transparent.

Mark

many thanks for your advice again!
I feel confident again that ill be up and running, and, after a rocky ride, AG free at last