Haas man, when you read this, please don't be offended that others are tweaking your design. We are just taking the coolest case and trying to make it slightly better. Think of this exercise as flattery.
So has anyone strayed from the standard dimensions, and created a smaller version? Larger version? Did you compute a formula for going from LCD/lamp/triplet dimensions to case dimensions? This could be a cool program to have.
I am planning on trying to get it slightly shorter, although a bit fatter to accommodate the new and improved

longer bulbs. That or go with a 45DEG upward mount. Still need to experiment more.
Haas improvement ideas. Perhaps a Haas design where instead of removing the top/bottom, it is cut in half around the LCD sled. opening it like a plastic egg and removing the sled should give ideal access to the internal components, with the advantage of shaving around an inch off of the sides as the retaining dado would no longer be required. The dowels and brass dowel hardware could be skipped too with this design. This would reduce the complexity of the design and require less advanced routing techniques. This method would also allow for the triplet half to be more pyramid shaped, or some sweet shape between current and pyramid.
So, if the case is made of 3 parts, the light sled (using a 5"x3/4 frame) and the front and back of the Hass case. It could be extended slightly, revealing some of the sled, to handle focusing and light adjustments?
The LCD sled has a complicated cut on the dowels. I haven't worked out a safe, reliable, repeatable way to cut dado's the length of the dowels. I am thinking replacing this part with a 3/4 board with dado's cut into it to wrap all 4 sides of the LCD/fresnel/lexan/keystone lens.
Perhaps hollowing out the sides a bit to a 1/4" thickness for the sled might allow for savings on width.
Can the key stoning mechanism be improved in such a way as to allow for a shorter case?
The heat shield might be improvable if it say were 1/4 inch thick with air channels through it, so air could come in from inside the case, and through the metal shield, then directly out of the projector. To better explain, Imagine a wall when it is framed with 2x4's. Now put drywall on it, and cut off the top and bottom. This would leave multiple channels for air to flow through. Now imagine it in the thin sheet metal we already use. Maybe someone will come up with a good design that we could get out sourced. I think all projector designs could benefit from active heat shield technology.
If the fans could be relocated from the rear, that would provide an excellent place to put the ballast. It could even be recessed into the wood or the sides could be extended to obscure it.
Anyhow, I am just spit-balling...
Brain, can you add a "Woodworking techniques for projector makers" in an appropriate place? This would be a good place to document how to fabricate various parts. It will help those who want to make the part, but have no idea how to do it. It would encourage safety. As wood workers know, the shop is full of machines that want to eat fingers. They will fire pieces of wood through windows in an effort to distract you so they can maybe get a piece of you. I have seen my router do this many times...