this is my second attempt at this i built a nearly working model before finding this site using the plans on tom's hardware i was still running into ffc issues on a eizo l365 (to short in optical path)
i had search at the time for an extension but didn't find the right information and attempted to solder my own extension after 22 solder points the only picture i got was a soildid red line down the middle let the project sit there in hopes that someday i might get the idea of making it work and a light fell in the middle of the panel and cracked the lcd

lcd panel on old school projector bed

same showing ffc and board black out in top right


this is where this project starts i have another of the same model eizo l365


first i need to get an ffc extenter from the store and take care of that if that goes well and i don't have to find a diffrent screen i'll move on to step two construction

Ouch.!!!

Please resize your images...

can't appreciate when we have to scroll to see them!

stripped down lcd today took pictures (now sized down for dial up wusses with small monitors)
it's a
eizo l365
resolution : 1024 x 768
size : 15" actuall measurement 12 1/8 x 9 1/8 visable
12 3/4 x 10 1/8 edge to edge
contrast: 450:1
response time : 25 ms


[edit]

this doesn't matter anymore this lcd got destroyed and i moved into a viewsonic vg150

Viewsonic VG150

Contrast Ratio: 350:1
Reponse Time: 30ms
Size:15 in.
FFC Issue: NO

just for refrence

i have ordered the ffc extension from the ll shop hopefully that will cure that problem

16 pin .5



this post illreivant now that im uning the viewsonic with no ffc issues

i got my ffc extension cable works grat first try

well this is about as good as you can get with the old ohp deal
using a dys bulb (don't waste your time there too dim and very yelllow )

here is projector version .5 in all it's infamy it projets an 85" image

Wow, and you were making fun of dial up wusses, you should hang your head in shame....



But you have a new start!!
Good going as of yet!
Keep up the good work

as you can tell from my design i graduated from mit
macgyver institute of technology

Just doing what i can with what i got

tommrow i'll go get a job so i can buy parts for my projector
even unemployed i still have high speed !!

i've spent most of the day reading the pun15ers plog
the whole day reading plogs

i think im gonna do the vertical rod thing that seems to be the most adjustable internal design
as for the exterior all input is welcome

im thinking wire mesh and fiberglass three layers some bondo (carbon fiber top coat maybe)

anyone have a new concept for exterior shape ?
i just need to get the creative juices flowing while i sit here with what will probably turn into a lung infection as i gough out unholy through goblins

todays update today i decided to try the water method and strip off my anti glare photos to follow (or various explitives)

i just finish removing my ag last nigh using marks water method i took pictures as refrence


1. you can clearly see the edge of the ag layer
2. after taping of edges to keep any excess water away from curcuit boards i applied wet towels
3. using a plastic straw to even the water dispursion and make sure all areas are in even contact with the ag
4. using cotton shop cloths i added 3 more layers adding water and rolling out air pockets and keeping water even
5. two hours in i used a razor on a non image area (be carefull lay off the caffine) and peeled up the corner
then i could pull on the plastic it was still adheared pretty good so i let it sit
6.-7. after 4 hours 17 minutes the glue had mostly weakend and i was able to peel film off it was about the consistancy of pealing a static sticker off of glass i had no glue residue left on lcd to clean up at all
this may indicate that other attemps have soaked to long allowing the glue to start
8. glare diffrence before and after

my picture is much much brighter 30% and the contrast is as much better also

got a job ( well at least my wifes happy)
and ordered everything i need to finish this projector from the LL store
t15 bulb, socket, and ballast
first side mirror
t15 reflector
uv sheet
2 pcac fans
and i splurged and got the wiring kit just to make it look pretty






{edit} six months later no job again but plenty of time to work on my projector

my lcd decided it didn't want to be part of my project so i invited a new panel from viewsonic to join (vg150 ) if your keeping track

also have decided to split each part of the project into a module and finish it as much as possible

the modules are

light box / bulb mount /base / lower mirror mounts / refletor mount

cooling system / air flow path / cpu control temp sensors over heat bulb switch


upper folded path front side mirror mount


lens mount / motor focus control

frensel mounts

lcd mount / lcd pcb mount

exterior case
(may look something like this)




indivual modules to follow

light box / bulb mount /base / lower mirror mounts / reflector mount


rough concept drawing of mirrors in lightbox

proof of concept


optical path as shown with a laser when it's done there ain't no way out for light but straight up

to do :
modify bulb mount to center bulb focus
cut mirrors to fit in box and for air flow

upper folded path front side mirror mount


mirror mount concept

rear and a good view of the pivot

the other side


to do
cut front side mirror to fit and epoxy to H support
did a test run with my epoxy and glass it holds like super glue

lens mount / motor focus control


concept



temp setup to test distance and angles


to do

finish a prototype with drive

bulb mount /base







bulb mount concept

finished maybe ?

as we see here the base is pushed out to far and will have to be shifed back a good distance
a quick redesign will fix this shortly

added tabs to back and pulled the bulb to center NICE

after a hiatus im back on this project i'll be fixing all the missing pictures and trying to get this monster done by may 24th
LOST SEASON FINALE PARTY

can you fix your pictures ?


I can not see any pictures but the ag removal.

there ya go

ok i skipped ahead a bit with no photos

heres the base light area as a near finish


bulb warming up


bulb at near full intensity (filtered to show image)

here are some pics of my failed focus system on two rails
this is in the process of a redesign

Are you getting any ghosting with the mirror setup? looks like you will have three points of light for the rear fresnel to "see"
Are you using a router for the rabbet in the wood frame for your lens? if so you should invest in a hole saw and a rabbet bit with a bearing, you will get a perfect circle and a perfect rabbet cut.
Have you started the enclosure yet? Fiberglass, messy.
Looks like you have come a long way from the start, btw, nice masking tape job in the earlier version. You have earned your MIT degree!!!!! I loved that show. I've "macgyvered" quite a few things in my life.

I have used masking tape extensively in my pj also from covering holes to taping lcd and frez to frame to making air tunnel to direct fresh air. my 1" masking tape was not wide enough so I taped them side by side to make them wide. I even held my field frez by masking tape for keystoning so that I can adjust on the fly.

fw

I love masking tape as much as duct tape, in pj1 I used silver duct tape to seal off the leaks around my control panel, and to hold my intake "hood scoop" to the enclosure. masking tape, the DIY'ers best tool! lol.

i plan on using some sticky aluminum tape for ventilation and light blocking

and as long as the lower frensel is focused correctly you don't see any ghosting if it's in backwards you get three spots on the celing

i used a jig saw for the full cut and a dremmel i modified with a router bit for the depth part what is this rabbet you speak of ?

and i have a method for fiberglass i will be realving as soon as i get to construting / taking pictures it's quite simple and not messy (i still recomend rubber gloves)

heres a piece of metal i drilled holes in to make circles

heres a handy tool i found to determine exact angles in a folded design

the new lens mount


and the rail system

full in

full out 3" travel

focus mech first test


and the full beast early view

obligitory test shots

JAMES BOND (ps2)

Good to see you have some images up but I do have one area of concern that you may or may nt have addressed. The sliding mechanism seems to be very close to the sides of your triplet. Did you have any shadows or light blockage? If so the it still looks like you have space to move them more to the sides if you have to.

I'm alost not sure if you still have your fresnels split in a vertical setup the usplit in my seemed easier to align plus the brightness was great. You have the pro lense which means you should be able to get brighter results as soon as you start tweaking. Just write down your fresnel to bulb distance when tweaking it'll make it alot easier down the line to see when figuring out your best alignments.

well it's the standard lens not the pro and when i temped up a box out of cardbord to block all the light leaks
i don't see any effects from the rails everything is adjustable just for that reason
also as alignment goes pun15er pretty much had all the measurments exactly right i just leveled the bottom most plate measured all the corners for each plate and leveled it out set the fold mirror at 50° and the triplett at 10° and all i had to do was adjust the focus one it was all assembled and i had a good picture

Here are Pun15ers orignal measuments i'll be poasting mine soon as i added a couple of things but most of them are the same

The final result of your focus mech looks much better, BTW, you are using the standard triplet, I believe you have it installed backwards.

Nice work,neorazz.
I hate to say it,but TESCORP looks to be correct about the triplet orientation,the lip on the standard lens faces forewards.
I got a great image from those dimensions,but after some tweaking, the lamp to rear fres distance went down from 220mm,to around 210mm.Just one thing to try when you get the chance.
Excellent work though,keep it up!!
Cheers P

the lens goes the other way round ?

how did i miss that ? i've tried it both ways in the early stages it didn't seem to make a diffrence
does it affect focal distace ?

and hey did you get a brighter picture when you dropped the frensel 10 mm ?
cause i just measured the 220 from the arc of the lamp stright up to the frensel i have to re measure to see what my exact distance is between the frens and the lamp is

Yes, the lens is designed to work with the flange facing forward, The pro lens installs the other way.
220mm is a starting point for the rear fresnel because this is the focal distance of the lens, you need to try different distances of the bulb until its bright enough, you may not need to move it at all. I have had good luck using 220mm for my distance bulb to fresnel, I have the ability to move the bulb in my designs but so far I havent had to move it.

ok i measured out everything this morning so theres a baseline # as i try to fine tune

but first im going to flip the triplett around

busted out my chepo lux meter i got last winter from hong kong did some random lux readings

direct sunlight pointing meter at noon sun 111100

lamp warmup 3000 full intensity 8300

measured in optics path just before triplet 14,000

ambient light in projector room daytime 5 night 0 not enough to register anything

my regular 27 " tube tv 18 darkest spot 300 brightest spot sustained i did see it spike at over 500 but this is a cheep meter

projections at screen

with lcd off 45 lcd on white 40 as an average i ahven't done the 9 spot ansi stuff yet

as a comparison i measured
100w bulb 23,000 75w 21,000


my color cell phone screen 150
so im not sure what to make of these readings

wow two years and i still haven't made a case for this projector yet
adhd sucks all my projects reach 90% and linger for eternity

i never finish anythi

Hang in there mate. I'm in the same boat.

Just focus on one thing at a time. It's easy to get 'caught up' in the millions of things that need to be done to build a PJ.