I hate anti glare!

I bumped it up to 20% acetone, 8 hour soak. Still wont come up the rest of the way. The AG is still brittle and hard to pull up. :-(

Any ideas? I cross posted this with my plog and the AG strip.

Is the g2a board supposed to be a plug & play sort of thing? When I turn it on all I get is the backlight which is on and nothing shows up on screen. I think I have damaged the ffc's. How can I find out?

the backlight will come on, and if nothing is connected it will display "no signal". Otherwise it will automatically display whatever input is connected.

OMG IT WORKS I THOUGHT IT WAS BROKEN. I took the back light set up out. I turned off the lights and put a light in front of the lcd and I have an image showing through. I think the only reason I did not see anything was because there was a glass and the backlight was behind the glass not infront of it.
Now I have my fingerprints and all this bad stuff over it though

Too bad I don't have a camera right now....

All the stripping is over!! And I feel kind of lucky that I did not wreck the panel, at least I don't think I did(too much). I stripped the reflective sheets on the back this time and wow, it was so much different from the front. These were way harder for me.

The first layer I removed was a clear and very thin layer. I tried doing the same thing, 4 hour soak with acetone like last time. But this time I was more careless and did not make sure everything was still moist, I also forgot to put something over it to keep it from evaporating at first. When pulling the layer after getting the peice, I would end up pulling up some of that silver metallic layer that's stuck to it. But not the polarizer. I decided to soak it for many hours, I don't know exactly but say overnight, then I tried again and I got half of it off until I considered to put it down. And it got stuck once I put it down. This time I soaked it again, but I used multiple layers of paper and put ceran wrap over to keep it moist. I left it for a long time and got home it like "fell off". Almost no effort. Heres the first layer.



Next was that silver metallic reflective layer. I don't know how many hours I soaked this but maybe a day and a half. I finallly was able to pulled it all off. The glue is still sticky even after removing it unlike the AG in the front and the clear thin layer in the back. I pulled this layer from each of the corners, eventually going near the center into a ball. While I was stripping this, I realized at this point, it's better to pinch directly the opposite of the side you are trying to remove it from. That doesn't make much sense, but what I'm trying to say is, when I finally got it into a ball near the center, Too much force was required to pull from one side. I would end up moving or lifting the panel. So I pinch both sides into the center like a ball and there was less force on the panel itself moving around while I was pulling the other way. Heres that metal layer wrapped into a ball, and then another pic after trying to stretch open the ball. Theres bits of ceran wrap stuck to the silver thing. It's too sticky.





In earlier attempts to remove the silver metallic layer, I tried each corner. One of the corners, I did not realize it but I lifted the polar from the corner. I didn't realize this until I started to pull the entire thing off. I got to that corner, and noticed when I had put the layer down, part of the polar lifted, and I was able to seperate the metal layer and the polar layer. Now I have this little polar or something sticking up. I don't know if that is polar but it does look a little tinted. The glue seems gone there and I can't just put it down and have it stuck and I think this is going to show up in a projection. What should I do?

Edit: Now that I take a look at it more closely, that thing that's lifted, I think it might NOT BE POLARIZER because...1, that lifted layer is not a tint color. 2. It feels like that layer of anti-glare that I removed from the front. 3. When I stripped the anti-glare off the front side, I remember seeing a different color and square dots if I look closely. Here I can see only black mirror and I think I can see the square pixels once I look at the part that's lifted. I am not sure, but someone please clear it up for me if it's polarizer or another layer of protection.


I'll be testing this on the g2a130 soon and see if it still works.

If it's clear and real thin it is the Tac layer. There is a Tac layer underneath the Reflective material.

It's alright to water soak it and pull it off. You should only have to soak it for 3-4 hours.

Okay, I soaked it for about 6 hours. I woke up and tried tugging that part that's already lifted. It made a tearing or ripping noise. It probrably wasn't ready enough. I ended up getting about 2/3 of it and the rest I am soaking again. I also had a small black dot come up onto the tac layer. Is it polarizer? Because I was able to wipe it off with my hand.

Okay now all the stripping that I can do on this panel is complete. I have a crum like peice of tac layer stuck on the bottom, but it's not part of the projection so no worries. I've tested it and it works. I've put a light under a glass desk with the lcd lifted a bit and white paper underneath it . I can actually see the colors this time a lot easier and it's pretty darn cool and fun.

Some things I'd like to say.

Use the acetone water mixture, maybe even use a little more acetone. Use warm water, it might help a bit, but by the time I'm finished putting all the layers on, the water goes to room temperature(pretty cold right now, it's winter). Try using computer paper, but use 3-4 sheet layers instead and have them the exact same shape when u cut it. Pay more attention to soaking the edges as it's very easy to soak the center part. Every bit needs to be soaked completely, if one part isn't soaked enough, it won't 'come up or easily. I'd even suggest placing the paper even a little past the edge. I didn't have the problem with water dripping and getting into the sides. Maybe because I'm using computer paper and dip the paper into a bucket then squeeze the excess water out with my fingers,that's why. Place something over it Like ceran wrap, it does evaporate. Make sure what you are covering it with doesn't absorb the water itself. Wait 12 hours or an entire day. It might come off even with a few hours, but you risk getting some streaks where u pull and stop if it doesn't come all the way off easily. These don't show up on the projection, is that correct from what I've heard? I've noticed sometimes, it just comes off super easily or makes a vaccum sort of noise. Other times hearing some tearing/ripping noise means it's not ready enough. That's when I had problems Anyways, it's much more of a pain if u do not wait long enough and end up having to redo it when it comes up in peices, because u have to cut paper into the proper shapes which might be extremely difficult, and resoak it. Once it's stripped, put ceran wrap over it and cover it from dust. Then use gloves from then on when touching it.I don't see any problem with leaving a long soak. The solution doesn't go through the layer and into the lcd panel.

Hope I've helped someone out there with this info. Heres a pic with just the backlight on.

Wish I could share pics, but alas I have none.

My simple piece of advice after having just stripped the front and back of an Sharp 02 and 12.... Go very very slow when peeling.

Soak times seem to always vary, I pulled mine after four hours, but had to be very careful not to tear it and stop quickly when it starte splitting.

From the corner I peeled out at a 45° angle gradually heading towards the full width of the short side. I had to stop quick and pick a new corner a few times when it split, but on both I eventually got to pulling straight across. It was a bit of a workout. had to be careful with the glass. Support it very very well.

Once I had the full short width in hand, it took maybe 20 minutes to finally get it off. Moving maybe 1/8" every 10-15 seconds. It doesn't sound that slow until you think about it. slide your finger across a table that fast an think about it.

My biggest problem was getting the polar on one corner, luckily I saved it and that panel is still in good shape.

My two cents: Patience! Go slow when pulling. haste will kill your end results.

What did you use for a soaking solution ? (ie. water or water/acetone mix ?)

Thanks.
gs

10% acetone (2 oz. acetone, 18 oz distilled water). I have rags on a roll at the studio that are basically heavy paper towels. I stacked 6, cut to size, each soaked before layering and poured more over the stack, keeping it covered with plastic. The whole stack is maybe 3/16" thick.

Hey,

I just removed the antiglare of of my 15.4" Sharp WUXGA. I layed the paper towel on it found some "Epoxy Paint Thinner" in the basement (contains isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and xylene?). I let it sit for 6 hours when I was at school, when I came home I got a razor blade and a magnifying glass. I carefully lifted up a corner and ripped it all off in one piece. The TAC layer under needing to be soaked for another 4 hours and then that came off it 4 or 5 pieces. There was some glue left behind but I cleaned it up with some more of my "Epoxy Paint thinner".

I had no problems except I was a little rough putting the lcd back into its frame and when I turned it on I had a white horizontal line, one pixel wide, going across the entire screen. I went to sleep feeling pretty bad last night. And now I just went in to my theater room turned on the LCD "Massaged" the ribbon cabble closest to the white line and ZING there was no more white line.

Hmmm, antiglare didnt came off easy with my sharp wuxga

I have the same problem as this:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?a...st&id=21716
but not this much, and more at the borders of the tft. Is this a big problem, will it be very visible in the projection?

What is the safest method for removing glue left behind by the tac layer. I removed the anti-glare and the reflective layer from the back of the LCD but it left behind a solid layer of glue. I have done a water only soak for the last couple of hour and the glue is starting to come up but I have to roll it from the edge. Acetone will probably damage the polarizer, but is there something else that I should use?

Rolling it is about all you can do. Any chemical at all will probably damage the Polarizer. Everything I've ever tried damaged the polar.

From your explanation are you sure it was the AG layer you pulled off? under the reflective layer is the TAC layer both of these layers are easy to remove, the AG is hard as hell to get off. Ive got a defective WUXGA panel that i am going to test on with accetone, if that does not work then its paintstripper!

Did some tests today trying to remove AG on my broken WUXGA panel before any attempt on my spanking new WUXY panel

I did a 10% accetone soak for 14 hours! but the antiglare is still to brittle to remove.

I soaked a small corner with 100% accetone and it started to form small bubbles after 15 minutes. NO GO!

I tried SIMUL8R's Pait stripper method and i can say the results are much better allthough i have no way to test the panel until i try with the working one.

lot of nail biting these days

Not to seem to disagreeable brutuz but it CAN be done.

I have removed the AG from 3 Sharp panels with water soaks. It took over 24 hours of soaking on each panel but the AG eventually came off.

It can be done. It's just quite difficult

Brutz, like 20 people have confirmed it can be done.

If you use 100% acetone like you stated then you are melting and burning the plastic Antiglare, that is why you have bubbles forming, coz you melted it.

Now everyone is going to read your ultra load post and think that its a no go for all panels

RobAndJonK, i did not know you removed your AG, congrats ! got any pictures M8

JonJandran

I tried a 24h watersoak with my first panel that did not work. 14 hour soak with 10% accetone that did not work. Some say they only needed a 4 hour soak. I found the paintstripper method much easier with my test panel.


I did say that AG cannot be removed from the Sharp Panel with the hardcoat and not all panels
but i have removed the comment from my 'ultra load' post


That is what i wrote is it not? it was just a test on a defective panel

I'll let you all know how the paintstripper goes this weekend

I have just finished removing the adhesive that holds the polarizer on the back side of a Sharp WXUGA using model dope thinner - methyl isobutyl ketone - Midwest Aero Gloss 43-4 Thinner.

After removing the whole reflective film + polarizer thing by lifting the corner with a knife and pulling it, most of the adhesive stays behind. I had tried a lot of different solvents with very limited sucess. The thinner was the last resort.

I used a Q-tip (many to be exact as they get sticky after a while) to wet a small area and then some old credit card to scrape the dissolved glue. In the places were the adhesive "split" - were there was adhesive left both on the polarizer and on the LCD - two such steps removed all the glue. Were the adhesive remained all on the LCD it took 4 or 5 to clean it up.

After all was removed, I used a small piece of cloth dipped in the thinner to clean it up and then one of those display cleaners ( iClean for Computer Displays from Monster Cable ) to remove all residues of the thinner left behind.

Now comes the hard part which is to put the new polarizer from 3dlens on the back without leaving any bubles or streaks. Hopefully the whole process will be worth a few more lumens - the screen in wide mode (1080p) is 250" diagonal (160" x 90") but I get some 12 lumens (WUXGA in original shape) at the center which is absolutely ludicrous. Average over the whole thing is 10 lumens.

I also run a little experiment on the effect of polarizers in on the sharp WXUGA (a previous LCD that has given its life for science ).

Measuring the light at the center circle (using the 9 circle screen generated by pgen) one gets:

No LCD (just lexan, fresnels 220 + 550 and triplet Beseller 18") = 248 lumens

Then where the LCD goes (split type) I placed and measured at the center circle:

Just back polarizer without the reflective film = 108 lumens
Just front polarizer (I cannot find the AG to remove it) = 89 lumens
Both polarizers together as above = 54 lumens
LCD with no polarizers = 41 lumens
LCD with front polarizer = 22 lumens
LCD with both polarizers = 19 lumens.

As you can see the amount of light "lost" is signifcant and there are clear differences among the front and back polarizers on this panel. I will make some measurements with the new polarizer over the weekend but I believe that the reflective film on the back has some significant impact.

PS: Sorry for this post's poor formatting, this is my first one here though I been following everyone's progress for over two years.

Hi Diygeek and welcome to the forums.

Great first post i will be looking forward to your results.

I used 50% water 50% accetone mix with a cotton wool bud to remove the glue that was under the reflective layer

after i remove the reflective layer, i get a lot of glue. this glue is behind another AG layer?

can i soak again that glue and pill off another layer? or the next layer are the polarizer?

im working with an 15.4 LCD

On a samsung WUXGA 15.4

I pulled the reflective layer off my LCD and used a combo of alcohol and water to remove the sticky rubber stuff as seen above. I now have minute scratches ( that polish off pretty easily ) in the next surface. From what I understand, there is another layer of reflective material below this first one. My LCD back ( where I just pulled off the first(?) reflective sheet) is not as clear as the photo above. You cannot see the corner of the LCD visible area in ambient light. I don't want to go picking up the polarizer, but I think there is another layer if the above picture is any indication.

Don't want to hammer a good LCD. Any advice?

Advice.

Take it very slowely, and dont rush anything! You need the patience of a saint in this task.

If you do accidently pull up all the layers of plastic, including the polarizers, then you can always buy replacements, which are reportedly "better" than the originals... So dont worry to much, just take it easy and strip that plastic!

If you are planning on keeping the polarizers inntact, then be aware that you dont want to pull up the last layer of plastic on each side of the LCD.

For those who think about purchasing the Samsung LTN154U2-L04 off eBay from ztronics seller, DO NOT strip the AG AT ALL. This is definately different from the LTN154U1-L01. The U2-L04 has only 2 screws to remove so it's much easier to remove the framing. It has no reflective layers, no tac layer on the back, just polarizer. The front is AG and and polarizer only. But it's not the type of polarizer on a tac type layer. It's just fuzed onto the actual AG like glued on super thin ceran wrap. So if you try removing ag, you WILL (most likely) end up removing the polarizer. You can't seperate it. Glue on the Samsung LCDS to me are way hard to strip. I tried a 5 day soak. I haven't tested it with the g2a130 board yet.

Hey yall if you happen to mess up the removal process I have the LCD and the guts of a LG Flatron 17" TFT Color LCD for sale if anyone wants it. Here's the specs:
Model L1752T
Resolution: 1280 x 1024
Contrast Ratio: 1400:1
Brightness: 300 cd/m2
Response Time: 8ms
Viewing Angle: H:160, V:160
Input Signal: Analog/DVI

Message me if your interested.

I, also ran into this the other day on my LTN154U2-L04. Soaked back for 8 hours,lifted

corner, ah,polarizer,stopped.

Checked the front(lifted corner while turned on), noticed only one pull up layer.

Stopped at this point. Decided not to go any further.


Had the LTN154U2-01 or 02. Had two reflectors on the back and one ag on the front.

Spents three weeks carefully removing layers.

Did the back first and then the front. During removing the ag, had it all off except about a

quater inch piece. Nothing would move it. Then noticed from trying to clean it off with q-tip

and actone/water mixture, I had removed a hazy layer on top of a shiny layer.

But it was very hard to remove and thought I will have to do the entire lcd front this way.

Then took drastic measure of using an exacto knife on the quarter inch piece. Mutiple

scracthes(xacto) and surrounding area shiny(q-tip).

Powered lcd up and saw distorted pixels where the scratches were and the area

were the haze was removed. Decided I couldn't live with that mess, even though at 16:9

you wouldn't see it.

Proceeded with LTN154U2-L04.


The first LCD wasn't too much of a loss at $40 shipped. Came out of a DELL 9100.

It was an enlightening experience.

B0SC0

for anyone that happens to nick their polarizer while taking off the a/g, you can very easily remove the polar by using an iron according to another thread[sorry i don't have a link and it's time for bed, so you'll have to search yourself!]. the polarizer glue is heat activated, and it will peel right off once it's hot enough[above200 degrees c if i remember right]. then you can use a replacement polar from 3dlens, etc. (as i understand it the polars don't have to be adjacent to the lcd to work, they just have to be somewhere in the light path...).

thank you for trying this out and reporting your results. a 15.4 will probably be in the remake of my projector (when i get it finished to start with!!)

So after screwing up my first Sharp wuxga while doing some exeriments, I had my "backup" Sharp panel ready to go, but not yet stripped. This one is a W02.

First I started by stripping the back of the LCD (backlight side) of the reflective polarizer material. I basically just stuck a razor into the edge to find the layer and started peeling. It was a pain, but it just peeled off clean leaving a nice shiny surface behind. wow, that was easy. (relatively speaking from my first wuxga strip).

Next I gave the front of the panel a room temperautre water soak using carefully cut and positioned paper towels. Let sit for just over 2 hours, started peeling at the corner and went REALLY slow. Took about 1.5 hours to strip... like I said; * REALLY * slow... BUT... the a/g came off in one piece !! One thing I did this time was to leave the paper towels with water on the panel while stripping, this kind of makes a watery mess, but since the strip takes so long, it's kind of necessary so the a/g doesn't start to stick to the polar again. (this may have been my problem in the past)

Anyway, there was no noticeable grain at all, I believe since it was such a short water soak time than i've previously used. I started stripping at noon, and by 4pm it was stripped and installed back in the PJ. I'm a happy camper again.

gs