That did not have anything to do with the AG removal, I believe when I took off the frame I caught the lip of the metal frame on the corner and broke it

so basically my new WUXGA became my practice lcd and I removed all AG and the reflective backing. with no problems

Make no mistake everytime you handle these you take the risk of distroying them, by either lifting or breaking the FCC, pulling off the polorizer, ect...

good luck in what you decide to do

Mystic

I am here to report that there is possibly a problem with the acetone method. I have noticed what appears to be a diagonal line going across the screen, 1 pixel wide that is lighter than surrounding areas. It is only visible when dark colors are being shown. I think this may very well be polarizer damage, and it is possibly due to the acetone. It wasn't apparent for several weeks. Perhaps a more thorough rinsing of the treated area would have prevented this, but I can't say for sure. So... you guys have been warned :*(

did you pull of the AG diagonally -> parallel to the line?


I haven't removed AG yet, when the display gets too hot I think a thin line appears that is a bit brighter than the rest, but goes away when properly cooled.
It is horizontal.

This line appears immediatly when the lamp is on. It doesn't go change depending on heat.

I did pull my AG off diagonally... but I don't think that has anything to do with this. It only showed up after a few weeks of use. The line is much too perfect to be caused by the way I pulled off the AG anyway.

Hi All,

I ruined my WUXGA panel after i started the thread, i could not remove the AG with the soak method, so i ended up breaking one of the FCC's so now i will try the Acetone+distilled method with my broken panel.

Ive been away from the forums for a while but im hoping to finish my PJ soon. I still want the AG off,
What do you guys use as a source of acetone? i cant seem to find any., can you use nail varnish remover?
does it leave any glue behind after the removal?

Cheers all

Well, jonjordan suggested I use 100% pure acetone for the mix. Surprisingly I went to my local wal-mart in Canada and they did sell 100% pure acetone. It was in the cosmetics section....most customers there are women. The one I got is 100% pure acetone nail polish remover. From onxy professional. There was only 1 type of product that was 100% pure, they had some no acetone, some acetone with other chemicals or flavors. I'd like to see you strip yours before I strip mine. Oh, and it was only $2-3 dollars after taxes, 16oz/473ml....I don't need that much.

WalMart, Home Depot , Lowes all have Acetone in the paint department.

I got mine from Home Depot. It comes in a metal can... sort of like what lighter fluid is sold in.

I am now trying on my 3rd WUXGA (I'm catching up to you jonjandran). This time I used 5% or maybe a little bit less than that. I let it soak for 3 hours and when I came back the AG just about fell off. There was virtually no resistance to pulling it off. I think the lesson here is that a little bit of acetone goes a LONG way. I don't know what part the acetone had (if any) in the polarizer damage I explained, but this time I have lexan as well. If it happens again, we'll know not to use acetone :/

EDIT: Something else I did as a precuationary measure is that I rinsed the surface of the LCD with wet paper towels several times after I took off the AG. I would rinse, dry, rinse, dry. Hopefully this removed any leftover acetone. Whatever is left would have to be so dilute that I can't see how it could possibly have any long lasting effects.

What do you mean "AG just about fell off"...um, so like, did the acetone eat away at the AG and destroy it like then went into eating away at the lcd itself? Or when you tried lifting it, it was like it wasn't even sticky at all?

Maybe using a very low acetone mixture, and lifting it up in a couple of minutes would be the solution?

No I meant it in a good way. I meant that the AG wasn't hardly stuck to the LCD at all. I used the razor to get just the edge up, and then pulled it off very easily.

I don't think minutes is going to work here. When I was using the 10% acetone solution I think I did it after 1hr 30 min or so, and it wasn't as easy to take off as when I used the 5% and left it on for 3 hrs. I think the time involved is mostly just allowing the solution to soak through the AG to the adhesive on the other side. We'll see how the LCD does, but I think it is worth letting it soak long enough that the AG comes off easily. If you try to remove the AG before it is time then you will almost certainly damage the polarizer.

I've removed a total of 8 screws around the wuxga panel. There is still one holding down the FFC and circuits I believe. I've also removed the heat shield tape and sliced the do not touch tape starting from the sides like in the picture you will see. What else do I need to do to get the frame out of the wuxga panel to begin stripping anti-glare on this panel?

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=179949

Thanks. I'll begin stripping AG with acetone in the upcoming days and report what happens.

Take lot's of pics

I got my $215 panel from ebay. Much to my surprise I get it apart, and its a w02. Fired it up and it looks perfect. I will likely attempt a 90/10 distilled water/acetone mix to try and get the antiglare off of this panel. I'll let you be informed of my results

Nice !!

Lot's of pics please

I removed the outer metal frame. The white backlight part is still there I believe. It was a little tricky to follow the guide without prior experience. When you pull that flab ffc part down and bend it does that harm it somehwat?
Anyways, heres a pic of my screen so far. Scratches and dust that don't appear when turned on. It's got that hazy look and I hope I got a dust free mirror after ag removal.
Are the side FFC's on the sides not supposed to be attached to anything?

Ffc's on the side are't attached to anything. Don't bend the circuit board with ffc's that are attached to it very much. It is fragile and those ffc's won't take to much abuse.

Panel is being soaked. I boiled some water, then put it in some flat plastic container. I waited until it was warm, and not too hot. I didn't have a measuring cup so I poured the water into a small glass 8 times full. Then put it in the container. Then I poured 1 cup of acetone.....that's a little more than 10%....oops. That stuff smells bad.
Then I got 2 peices of computer paper and trimmed off the edges a bit. And dumped them in. I decided to use computer paper though some said just stick with paper towels. What do I think of the computer paper? Well, it's strong and heavy, so you can make it completely flat if u squeeze out the bubbles.

Heres a pic.



It didn't go as planned as I wanted to...seemed to expand when it was in water, so maybe it should have been trimmed a little more. I also didn't make it go as close to the edges as possibleThere are water bubbles in there but I'm not going to squeeze them out I'm afraid it might get into the sides......I just put a page of newspaper over it at the moment.

Almost 2 hours into the soak, I decided to remove the paper and put it on another way.



I took a normal paper and cut it, then just put it on and used other sheets of paper, dipped it in water and got the excess water out using two fingers. I used the sides of the paper that were pre-cut for the sides of the soak. It's more close to the edges this time and everything is a lot flatter this time. Gonna give it a 4 hour soak and try lifting.

And the results? SUCCESSFUL!!!!!!

Needed to use magnifying glass to see the ag. Kept flicking it, finally grabbed a peice and pulled. I kept pulling slowly and slowly, and it kept coming off and off. It's a mirror finish Right on the edges top, there is some black stuff, I do not think it is polarizer because it looks like dirt. I'll take some pics.

Awesome !!!

Looks like the acetone is helping a lot with the hard antiglare.

Here are some pics.


I tried to get one showing a mirror reflection, but I guess I didn't aim well. O well, you all know what that mirror look should look like.


Zoom up on that anti-glare pic. See that black stuff. Tell me it's some sort of dirt and not polarizer.....if it is.....ITS ONLY ON THE EDGES!


That's all for pics I guess.

The acetone isn't strong enough that it eats into the a/g film and into the lcd panel. I do not see how it could harm the lcd. Maybe slingblade's problem was something else, who knows. Any update on the 3rd panel slingblade?

If someone else is gonna do the a/g I suggest they do it with computer paper.

Get a flat tray, put a peice of white computer printer paper. Soak it entirely and then shake off excess water and then put it on a table and see how flat the paper can go. Try the same with paper towels.

If you look at the papers I used for the 1/2 half of the a/g removal process. I basically cut 1 peice of paper so it was flatter that way, the entire thing would fit on the lcd panel. Then I got new peices of papers, and cut the edges. I used the pre-cut edges and put them against the edges of the lcd. Scissor cuts aren't as accurate as machine cuts. All the peices of paper were dipped into some flat tray filled with the water/acetone mixture, and I just got it completely soaked and got the rest of the water out and place it on.

Anyways, I need to test out my panel, if it works, I'm buying a g2a board. Next thing? A lighting system, then I can pretty much start building

wow. that is great ! I can remember what a total PITA it was removing mine, very impressive you got it to remove in one piece. Nice Job !

Quick question: was the total soak 6 hours (2+ extra 4 after re-orienting the papers), or just 4 hours total (2 + extra 2) ? Thanks.

cheers,
gs

Total soak hours was 4. I was pretty anxious anyways. So like, 2 hours into the soak, I decided it'd be better to orientate the papers another way for 2 more hours. It's a lot better the second way. Because the first way, I assumed it would be pretty easy to aim the 2 big peices of paper and match them against both edges of the lcd. But I was wrong because the paper is so big. It's a lot easier when u have one large paper that fits in the center with room for error. Then using strips of papers that are machine cut, to go along the lines of the lcd panel. The great thing is almost all the excess water is already out and I just lay it on without worrying that extra water starts going out from the sides. Computer printer paper gets completely soaked, and all excess water goes out, it doesn't absorb it like paper towels, and I don't see any reason to use paper towels. Because, try completely soaking paper towels and computer paper onto a table flat then lifting it up. It's not like it leaves more water on the table. One good thing about paper towels maybe is, u can stretch and move them when they are wet and on the lcd right to the edges. With computer paper, and that huge paper I did the first try, I kinda struggled to make it flat and perfectly against the edges of the lcd the first try. If I wanted to move it UP more, I would have to move the entire paper, but that was hard because it's heavy and if you don't lift it up as a entire peice, it can rip.

iwantaprojector,

Well done what panel do you have is it the sharp model LQ154M1LW02 , LQ154M1LW01 or the LQ154M1LW12 ?

Cheers

I have the Sharp w02 model. It came shipped in a refurbished pink plastic bag.
I have not tested it after the a/g removal. Am I supposed to do anything after the a/g removal, like take a cloth and wipe out the glue or something? I don't think there was any by looking at it.
Will someone out there with a 1080p projection say for themselves the extra resolution is worth it?
720p for ~$250, or 15.4" for ~$750. Since theres so many more pixels with the 15.4.....is dithering a lot better so you don't notice it as much?

Yes, totally worth it... and i'm not even running HD sources yet !

Yup, that's the delema... going to 1080p vs. the 720p you can get with a 17" LCD, which can be even less expensive than $250. BUT.... and this is a big 'BUT'... people continue to forget that when you go with a Winmate G2A controller, it is also a scaler , and handles 720p and 1080i inputs. To buy an aftermarket scaler for your 17" LCD or buying a 17" LCD HDTV is going to add $200-300 (or more) to the base price of the 17" LCD... this makes the price difference even less. Also, $750 is a bit much as the controller is approx $375, and a WUX LCD can be picked up on ebay for about $200-250, so the price is more like $575-625. (yes, I know some people outside of US will have extra shipping, duties, taxes, etc. to condend with...) If you plan to only use the 17" LCD with a computer and not worry about getting external HD sources onto the screen, you won't need an external scaler, hence the price difference will be the greatest...

You will certainly be happy with whichever you choose ! ... but unless you by both and compare, you will likely never have an answer to your question as to which one is better. I've done 15", 17" and WUX, and the WUX is the best. IMHO.

The final step is up to you !

cheers,
gs

Finally got around to stripping and soaking my WUXGA W02 panel. I just started the soak of 10% acetone/90% distilled water and I'll try in about 4 hours and see what happens. I'll post images tomorrow with results!

Edit: Started the peel, corner was very easy to pull off, starting going and it tore, so basically the bottom 1/6 of my LCD is stripped of AG. Re-soaking for a bit then trying to pry up another corner.

Edit 2: Tried a second corner, same issue. This seems like a more sturdy AG then I have seen around the forum. I'll keep things updated.

Edit 3: Got a bunch more chunks off, about 1/3 of the panel is now bare and looks quite nice. Gonna let the rest soak till the morning and try again. The AG is about the stiffness of a plastic cup.

Final Edit (pics in next post later today): SUCCESS, got a bunch of AG pieces and a fairly clean panel (few glue residue marks and such)
Results:
4 Hours in: Peel, got pieces
4+2 hours : Peel, more pieces
6+9 (overnight): Got the rest off in 2 large pieces, came off easily.

Soaking with computer paper, only annoying part about this paper is it left lint behind after taking it off and drying the panel.


Panel right after taking the AG off, no cleaning yet


Cleaned up a bit, good reflection


You can see my current HDTV and 360 in the reflection at a fairly low angle.

I haven't posted here in awhile, and I'm glad to see my initial screw up led to an expirement that has helped a lot of people strip their panels.

What did you use to clean the polarizer off after stripping?

Hello.

I have read that the polarizers on both sides of the LCD can replaced with new foils.

Can these foils be better than these originals [higher contrast ratio for the LCD]?
My thought: An exchange would improve the quality. I think of the contrast.
Is this thought wrongly?
What is the contrast of LCD monitors determined through? Not exclusively by the quality of the polarizing filters?
There are fairly expensive polarizing filter foils. Look here: http://www.3dlens.com/shop/polarizer.php (inclusive UV protection, good for us!)
These are not cheap, they are possible better. We should know which foil Sharp has made on this.
And a cheaper source for very good foil at a good price must be found.
The first foil near 3D Lens is too big LCD for a 15.4 ". It is squandered money. Too much offcut.
Does one not need two foils moved by 90°? There is only one single foil. For the back this does not match ..
But it has "anti Glare". We should ask directly 3M and other manufacturers what offer it. With UV protection and without anti Glare.
We must remove there the Antiglare do not pay attention. Foil could be taken off completely.
E.g. with a strong or pure acetone solution. Glass is under this, this is insensitive against acetone. Or not?
Everything down and better polarizing filter on the two sides.....

YEAH!!! MIKE u used computer paper and how did it go for you? How'd you get those peices of paper on the lcd so nice and flat? Did u get help from other hands?

Used two pieces of paper and cut off a little bit for expansion, soaked it, then laid it on and squared up the corners. Once you square the corners i lifted up the end in the center of the panel and laid it down fairly smooth. Once you do that just get a credit card and drag the bubbles out. Just don't press down too hard with the card, you don't need much force.

For cleaning it i just did another quick soak with the 10/90 acetone/distilled mix (1 hour) so the paper didn't deteriorate and wiped it clean.

On another note: distilled vs tap, which is better? I would assume distilled since it dosen;t have any minerals or anything to get left behind if it drips off the panel side or onto the polarizer.

I wish i new about the acetone a while back, anyway my WUXGA panel is on it way via Fedex so i hope the second time around i will get the AG off.

It would be great if you could take some pictures of you WUXGA panels switched on to see the difference wihtout the AG

Cheers

This is for most part out of context but where do I get the comtroler to drive my WUXGA panel, this one dont need stripping since its one of those "true life" varients..
Ive seen lots of ppl speaking of having the panels but no clear device needed to drive them... I was nearly tempted building the laptop into the PJ

Thanks

The infos right here :

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15376

WOw thanks!

I ran into a problem stripping the AG. I think that the ploarizer lifted. The thing is, isn't the polar supposed to be stiff? This layer is very thin and bends easier than the AG. It does have a tint to it, so this is why I think this might be polar(there seems to be another layer under it tho). What do you guys think?




I was trying to avoid replacing the polar, but might have to now. Is it possible to only replace one side of the polarizer? I knew I should of cut that soaking paper smaller...Damn it.

PS- I soaked with about 10:1 water/acetone mix(maybe a bit stronger)

Hello,

I have started to strip my 2nd WUXGA panel, I used the 10%acetone/distilled water solution.

after about 12 I got about 2/3rds of the front antiglare off the rest refused to come up.

any suggestions about getting the rest of it off? go with a 16 hour soak? or maby a stronger solution of acetone? would this be bad?

Left the panel on the backlight as it soaked, when I gave up last night I noticed that the solution had went underneith the panel and backlight so I removed the panel to clean it up, and go figure the back antiglare just fell off I just sort of laughed, and took off the reflective backing as well.

which leades me to another question:

If I put the solution on the backlight and flip the panel over it seems I would not only get a perfect coating but also pressure from the weight of panel? and this would help loosen the antiglare?

Mystic

Mystic, I hope you get a response. I picked up some acetone yesterday in preparation for stripping the AG on my WUXGA LCD. I'm going to wait to see what advice you receive before starting mine though.

OK you need to be careful now because you can hurt the polarizer..

I would strip the rest off with 100% distilled water ONLY now. And cover ONLY the leftover antiglare.

Soak for another 3-4 hours and peel up the antiglare from the opposite edge. DO NOT try to peel it up from the middle of the panel, you will scratch the polar.

And that's a GREAT idea fore using the weight of the panel to strip the antiglare. I will try it on my spare panel. But do not attempt it yourself now. You would wind up hurting something I'm sure.

Good Luck

Thanks you for your trusted advise!

I will try to do it in the next couple of days, before I go on vacation

Look forward to your findings

Mystic

P.S.

I do think having the solution between the backlight and panel is the best way to go as apposed to paper towels method. You get better saturation and slight pressure of the panel.

There is no way to speed up the water's permeation other than to remove the surface tension. Pressure with an escape isn't going to do anything but squeeze out the water away from the surface. So using your backlight to somehow hold the water (not sure watcha' mean, really) is only going to squeeze the water away from the surface. I think anything else would more than likey be worse than paper towel.

Mark

If there is a very small gap between the panel and backlight, capillary action will hold the fluid between them.
This will create a uniform thickness of fluid on thr panel, there is'nt enough pressure fom the backlight alone to squeeze out the fluid.

MarcoPolo,

Thats what I think happend to me.

Jondandran,

Soaked with distilled water last night for 3 1/2 hours and nothing, won't budge.

I don't care how many panels it takes for me to do this I will do this!!!!

Believe me I know your frustration. This happened with me on 2 of my Wuxga Lcd's.

It will come off you just have to find an edge that you can get started. You can try in the middle but you have to pick the edge up VERY CAREFULLY with the edge of your razor.

You'll get it

Photos speak a thousand words, if you can take some photos that would be great .

Im going to try and remove my AG soon 10:1 accentone mix. I'll post my results

I will do that when I get back from vacation

Mystic