On one of my panels simple water was enough to clean it up. On another I had to use goo-gone (solvent).

I hate stamps left behind ! Should be good with a little water soak though...

I think I've got something similar called "Whoops". Some really funky organic solvent? Smells great but probably goes straight to yer testicles? That kind of stuff? I'd be to use that on my panel. You're obviously serious though. Or one hella subversive devil.

No, I was serious ! It was the 15" CMV monitor I had to use solvent on as it was a sticky mess to remove the finsihing touches with. That was the panel I paint strippered, so it caused a gooey mess. It didn't hurt the polarizer any (I had already done that with my putty knife ! ). I assume you'll just try water first, and in all likelyhood it will work just fine. I've thrown just about everything I could at the toshiba panel I have in order to remove some "stubborn stains"... to no avail... maybe i'll send it to you and you can examine it under a microscope ? ...

Hi Durachko, good to see you back.

My LG had lots of sticky stuff behind I just re soaked for half an hour more and it all came off easy. If the glue is not water based you might need the guegone stuff.

I have the Toshiba 15.4 too I hope all goes well. (mine looked to have no antiglare)

I wandered over here to see what was up and I can say that I have used "Goo Gone" on all sorts of surfaces including LCDs in particular where it worked perfectly to remove the adhesives from these films. I use it on my car paint to remove bugs from the front of my G37S. There is a better solution that smells worse from 3M who probably designed the adhesive you want to remove. It's 3M Wax and Adhesive Remover available in fine auto shops like autozone. Stinks to high heaven. But evaporates so quickly it doesn't have time to get under the film layers. It is designed to clean a surface of all contaminants before painting.

But I don't need my testicles anymore, got all the kids I want.

Well, my goo comes off with water. Looks like 15 minutes of careful wiping will get me super-clean. Provided I don't eat too much red meat the day before.

Last chance today to get my Kontron prior to the holiday.

Plenty to do if it doesn't arrive but I was really hoping to have it.

Awwr geez. FedEx scheduled delivery 26Nov07.

Well, like I said, plenty else to do.

Y'all have a good and safe Thanksgiving out there. Okay?

Quick test of my 15.4" Toshiba WUXGA indicates a transmissivity of 5.2%. Not sure how that compares with previous measurements by others - perhaps I'll look around later. I know NN posted his %. In fact, there's a thread somewhere dedicated to transmissivity measurements. Well . . . later I can do that. Also, note I only stripped the rear diffusive antiglare and fully intend to leave the front glossly anti-reflective on for added protection. At least for now.

Got the panel mounted in the sled.

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Now I suppose I really should test it with the temporary controller I have in my possession.

Checking out your plog bud...looks good.

<by Durachko: Sharp members will realize this is untrue. You get a Snickers Bar if you really know why this post is here.>

Got the Kontron mounted. Still not working properly though. Troubleshooting things.

Good news is the panel appears to be completely functional and undamaged after a cursory test using the loaner controller I have. Phew!!!

Yes! Everything is working and almost playing nice with each other. This is the WUXGA hooked to the Kontron backlit by a 100W equivalent compact flourescent in a cardboard box. How elegant is that test rig? You'll note there's significant offset. My OSD-Panel should be here relatively soon so I can do some adjustments much more readily. As is I must crate the controller over to my other computer since my HTPC ain't got a serial port. I think my laptop doesn't have a serial port either. Have to check that. The image is blurry because it was shot off-hand with no flash and there was a rather long exposure time. There is a bit of noise in the image so that will need to be worked on. Oddly (or perhaps not?) I mostly really notice the jitter on grays. Whites, blacks, and colors are much less noticeable. That may make some sense if it's neighboring pixel jitter since the colored bands are separated by two interleave pixels. RGBRGBRGB if ya git my drift. Or maybe I'm just nuttz. Anyway, I'm one step closer. I'll sleep a bit easier tonight.

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Hmmmm, I seem to have a white line splitting my reflected crotch. Oooochy!!!

Congratulations DURACHKO! We are now "Brothers In Peeling". Do you agree that the Toshiba probably has the highest chance of peeling without pain? Very nice work.

HIGH FIVE.

"Hmmmm, I seem to have a white line splitting my reflected crotch. Oooochy!!! "

Looks like an X-RAY with a lit CF jammed up yer butt. Let me know how that COMES OUT, would ya?

Ooooff!!! Nice interpretation there.

Heck, I'm just happy that my firmware worked on controller other than mine!

Not nearly as happy as me!

Proof of your expertise and hard work HF. Now keep tweaking that firmware until it's PERFECT!!!

Here's what it's looked like for way too long.

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U-G-L-Y it ain't got no alibi.

I cut a hole for and mounted the fan which will cool the fresnel/LCD sandwich. Note I removed my mirror holder for this work. I just had it held in place with glue fillets since I figured it'd be torn out eventually for some final work.

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The hood/duct which will fit over the fan seen above. I'm using coroplast hot-glued to the computer CPU hood/duct. The assembly will be held in place with some screws and I'll fabricate more ductwork between this hickey-doo and my fresnel/LCD sandwich likely from coroplast as well. It's handy stuff and I've got a lot of scrap from my R/C plane hobby.

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And holes for the triple fan array I'll be using to cool my light chamber area. I'll use some coroplast ductwork to direct the flow from these fans which I'll show later.

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That may be it for tonight but maybe not . . .

Any progress is nice. This has been a l-o-n-g haul . . .

I got the noise problem fixed on both my 14.1 and 15.4 test panels, and they look sweet! I’ll have the 15.4 revision to you soon for testing!

Side note on the controller, the two Genesis processors run hot, even with the factory installed heat sinks! I’m running a 4” PC fan and shroud over the board for insurance and the sinks are barely warm to the touch. I’m going to incorporate some good airflow for them when I start my new build soon.

I thank you for that. I've already incorporated some active cooling for the controller into my build plans.

Interesting that you brought this up, I also attached some big heat sinks to the controller chips, especially the genesis. It's passive, but it keeps them cool.

The Kontron comes with nice sinks on the chips. It was easy enough for me to design my cooling circuit to include some air movement over the sinks so why not? I still have considerable work to do in terms of all the finishing touches but my noggin' blueprints are looking nice. I really wanted to build for later upgrades/mods and I feel it has come together very nicely. Once I get to the point where I pretty much have it all done aside from final finishing - stain, paint, whatever - I think I'll put something shorter than this rambling ploD together and post in the completed projects section. You guys with the blacked out bat caves have put a burr under my saddle and my wife may file for divorce if I make any attempt at putting a basement under a proposed kitchen addition specifically for a theatre room. But that's at least one to two years away so I have plenty of time to work up to that.

Great work

I too striped the Toshiba 15.4 and on the AG side... (came up in prob 20 small bits) I have a residue left behind that water has a tuff time with i'll have to try the gue gone stuff

the back came up in one easy chunk..



Ohh and a quick Q's how do you plan on protecting the FCC if indeed you are?

That goop cleaner sounds like it's good stuff. I'd still be leery of squirting any kind of solvent on my panel but I wish you all the best and if info from other notable members is any indication it'll work a treat for you.


That's what I like to hear. I'm dumb for not soaking longer. But it came out okay. I still plan on NOT removing my normal frontside glossy layer since I like the idea of having it there as a dust catcher on my front-side-up vertical unsplit configuration. Time will tell though.


I'll have to get you a picture but see this one of the WUXGA on the sled and this one of the 17". The WUXGA will be protected similarly. Does that answer your question?

Holy cow! I don't seem to have a picture of how I protect them!?!? I really will need to get you a pic! Anyway, I have a shield fabricated from wood (with a coroplast extension due to the WUXGA switchover) and it covers up the FFC and PCB of the WUXGA panel. It's shaped like a straightened out Z from the side and screws onto those two uprights you see in the picture linked above. You'll see.

These should explain how I protect the delicate stuff and show off the Kontron as well.

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The strange black shading is due to different batches of paint I've used.

Those are just protective sheets of leftover stuff on the LCD to keep off the heebie-jeebies floating in my basement.

Did you just screw the circuit boards directly to wood or do you have anything in between? I ask because I was using those raises you get in computer cases, to try and keep my circuit boards off my wood (of course in a slightly unrelated side note I ended up buggering up one of my ffc's... which is why I'm curious about simpler ways to mount the circuits).

Thanks for any help and I look forward to seeing the final results

Sorry for your troubles.

Yes, I used standoffs for the circuit board. Tiny wood screws and some firm plastic tubing from another hobby stockpile.

Edit: Hmmm . . . do you mean the controller or the board hooked to the panel? Methinks perhaps you are asking about the PCB hooked to the LCD via FFC's? The method above refers to the controller mounting methodry.

Here's what I did for the panel PCB. Basically that PCB is lying directly on my wood sled. But, I do have it raised slightly on two or three pieces of balsa wood shims here and there (see pic). There are two ground tabs (see pic) on the sides of the PCB and I anchored them with a daub of hot glue once the panel was in place right where I wanted it. The panel rests in the original metal frame and I used some bezel material (plastic) to "frame" the active panel area and mask out the unused panel edges. I used hot glue to snigger those down so everything is kind of semi-permanent and the panel is not really hard-mounted but can float a tiny bit.

I must add once again that I understand how easy it is to really futz up one of these WUXGA's. They truly are more fragile than the 17's I've handled. But with care and patience it's obviously doable to use them.

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Making a directing duct for my triple fan array which cools the backside of the fresnel sandwich.

Using my coroplast stripping tool to make it bend easier.

I think the pics say enough.

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I'll post more pics once it's glued and painted.

Thanks, and it's looking good

I’m sure that your mentioned it somewhere, but are you going split or unsplit?

Unsplit.

Here's the finished duct-thingy.

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Despite personal predictions of major advances this weekend all I got done was a few minutes of sticking this duct thingy in and rewiring some fans. Ho-hum.

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Careful D!,
You are actually getting closer to being...DONE!


SJ

C'mon man, test my latest controller revision! I'm dying to you to see how good it looks!

Sorry HF. This weekend was a nightmare. Maybe tonight. I'm dying to try it as well.

I will never understand why people buy such dangerous pets...

Okay, okay. You, sir, are a bonafide genius. Rock steady. Even that odd offset is gone! I wonder what that even was? I only tried it with the VGA cable and not the DVI. Plugged nothing else into any of the other inputs either JIC anyone is out there wondering.

I gotta get my butt in gear and see what this baby can do for me. Looking very, very schaaa-weeeeeet!!!

When, oh when, is that OSD-Panel gonna come through???? Oh well, it can wait I guess but I'd really like to have it in-hand so I can cleanly incorporate it into my build and make adjustments with it.

Each time I pop the sled in and out I run a small but definite risk of wrecking my panel and after I've spent this long getting things together I'd hate to spend any more time kicking myself in the arse over doing something stoopid.

I wonder if I'd be smart to get a serial card for my HTPC and go that route??? I think not since in theory I can run the projector sans HTPC if I ever pipe in directly with a yet-to-be-purchased game console, eh? I guess I need to think about this a bit?

Anyway, it looks fabulous. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

The Kontron is a proven and independently verified viable alternative to other 1:1 mapping controllers out there. It'll be relatively a long time until I can thoroughly put this through its paces but it's one more controller to consider for anyone out there looking.

Nice, Good job to Hites! and hurry up for you

I like the ducty thingy, progress!

What about the Lvds cable. Where is that being sourced from ?

You make your own, plain and simple. If you have the skills to strip an LCD and build a working PJ, then fabbing an LVDS cable with crimp style connectors from Digikey is easy. The schematic has already been mapped out. I built mine from used OEM pieces as did Durachko. It's virtually a non issue.

I don't know if using a skill saw and wire nuts qualifies some members here to work with small wires and wiring diagrams and schematics.

We'll see

There's electronics inside DIY projectors !?!?!?

Don't let this get around but I'd be willing to put together the odd LVDS cable or two for upstanding members if they feel they can't handle it. Making up an LVDS cable is certainly not the easiest thing about building a projector. My turnaround time would not be guaranteed but I'll help out where help is needed. I'd be willing to barter privately for compensation but wouldn't be out to make bucks. HF mentioned the crimp connectors. He's way more well-versed than am I regarding the nitty-gritty details of this stuff but I'm not sure exactly what he means. I know they make a crimping machine but it costs MUCHO DINERO. I feel what I did was nearly the best route to go - that is, I had an LVDS cable from another monitor which could be disassembled under minor magnification (prolly with your eyes if you're not 46 years old like me!!!) and reassembled in the proper configuration. See the dedicated Kontron thread for more details. If one could source wires with pre-crimped, push-in pin thingies like that and compatible connectors then it'd be a very simple matter of assembling a solder-free LVDS cable. Surely that could be done. In fact, if someone can source the schtuff I'd be willing to organize a group purchase of the materials and ship out the cables assembled or unassembled. Anyway, the whole point is the Kontron works and works well. It may not come in as cheap as some of the excellent stuff Johnzo peddles but it's yet another option. HitesFiero is to be commended for providing his expertise in developing the firmware. I dunno why I decided on the Kontron but am happy I have been able to verify it appears to be working wonderfully and hope others may benefit.

Thanks for the kind words D. Digikey has the parts I mentioned, including the fine wire. I’ll try to track down the links.

Awesome. Can you get them at a certain length and with connectors pre-crimped on both ends? That would kick buttocks.

Triple fan array for cooling light chamber wired and installed.

Wiring harness for LCD/fresnel sandwich cooling wired and installed.

Mirror mounting frame reinstalled and reglued.

Cool air intake port layout done - just need to cut 'em out. (Gotta let the mirror frame glue dry.)

Power supply for Kontron almost finished. Revised the one I started out with above. Now GS will should get his loaner back before Christmas.

Gonna go work on mounting a fan for active cooling of the Kontron now.

WHOOOO, WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOO . . . CHUGGA, CHUGGA, CHUGGA, CHUGGA

Going like a freight train . . . for me at least.

Whoa . . . wait a minute. Plenty of coal in the tender but the water's a bit low. Better go refill in the HOT TUB!!!! Yeah baby, that's what I'm talkin' about.

You don't need to send it back... just send me the Kontron and i'll call it even.

Now there's a generous deal if ever there wuz one!!!

*ear to ground*...me, SIM, hear roar of many hooves...sky burn fast like running fire in mountains...chase all buffalo far...we make brave stand here with many ...


....Durachko is coming....