This was originally my question about an ilo lcd, but last night I bought a westinghouse lcd from best buy. Its on sale right now for only 159.99!

Took it home and layed paper towels out on it before stripping the cover off. I saw the other person who did the ragging method only soaked it for 2-1/2 hours. I soaked it about that long and tried to lift the antiglare. I teased up a corner with a knife, and gently tried to lift it, being ever so gentle as not to force anything. A small piece of the antiglare came up and broke off. (no damage to polarizer) ok it needs more soaking. Waited another hour and tried again. No better. So I replaced the paper towels and let it soak over night. It was soaking for about 12 hours. Came down this morning with a cup of coffee. Tried to lift a corner with a piece of tape and it won't budge.

Fortunatly I've been carefull and nothings been damaged. But I'm exasperated. I said it from the start the ragging method sounded absurdly simple and too good to be true. (at least for someone with my luck). Letting it soak for a while and peeling it off easy as pi...(sigh) just too easy. Thats why it refuses to work for me. Perhaps if I should mail my monitor to someone with better luck, have them remove the antiglare, and mail it back....

If worst comes to worst, I can go with the stripper method. (though I don't want to, heard for some people the scraper left small scratches in the polarizer! x_x)

But heres the thing. One night not long ago I was eating dinner and my mother said "how 'bout that, our water is so hard the peas didn't soften" I almost fell off my chair. I suspected perhaps this was why soaking my 512N didn't work, but I remembered that ammonia didn't work either and Vroom tried his with distilled water and it didn't work either.

But the other guy here soaked and removed his antiglare in only 2-1/2 hours with distilled water, so maybe it will make the difference. I was unable to find distilled water near me, maybe I'll boil some water and catch the steam to make some.

Anyways, I'll figure out a way to get my hands on some distilled water, one way or another. I'll soak it in for about 12 hours, if that doesn't work I suppose I'll have to try the stripper method.

But do you guys think distilled water will make the difference?

If everything is going right, then every panel that has been modified is in the II thread.

Mark.

I changed the subject of this post. Please read the top.

Well, I made some distilled water by catching the steam from a teapot and letting it drip into a cup. Took forever to get just a small amount. Put some new paper towels on and spooned it on. Let it soak for about 2 hours, I grabbed a corner and pulled up gently, and it started to come off! I decided to let it soak a while longer. Its coming up but its still gripping a little. I want to be sure it comes up easy so I don't rip the polarizer like last time.

Lookin good. I just can hardly wait....

It's good to see some progress on your panel. You should be able to find filtered and/or distilled water at your local grocery store. Most bottled water is simply distilled water.

Well last night after letting the distilled water soak in for a few hours, I slowly lifted a piece and began peeling. It came up fine, no damage to polarizer, but as I was peeling a few small pieces of the antiglare split off and stayed on the panel. They looked like they were spots that needed more soaking. It happend most at the edges. Looks like the water didn't soak into the edges too good. Now those pieces are going to be a pain in the neck to get rid of. x_x

I figured I'd finish up soaking those pieces tommorow (today) and I decided to clean the polarizer up a little bit. I got a cotton cloth and began wiping it with a little bit of goo gone. It didn't seem to clean it much at all. But worse, when I had dried it off, I could see a thousand little hair like lines on the polarizer. I don't know how they could be scratches, I only used a cloth, that shouldn't hurt it. But the lines won't seem to wipe off! I have a feeling they are scratches. But how could I have scuffed up the polarizer with a cotton cloth? doesn't make sense!

I'm feeling pretty miserable.

Not sure if its the same, but I had a similar problem with junk on the polarizer that was left over after peeling the anti-glare layer. It wouldn't clean to a clear finish. Nothing I tried helped, it made it worse, goo gone, goof off, mineral spirits. Then I tried non-amonia window cleaner (glass plus or Don Aslett's) and it came right off instantly. rinaldopsantos mentioned that the glass cleaner is a isopropyl alcohol solution.

But heres whats strange. As I was peeling off the antiglare, about half way through it split in half. When I pulled off the other half there was a smal line between where the two pieces split. As if one layer had stopped and another began. I'm wondering if the tac came up on the first pull, and when it split off so I was just pulling up the antiglare.

last time, my 512N's rear polarizer scuffed up pathetically easy! Perhaps tac scuffs very easy.

If this is the case, then its just the remaining tac that scuffed, and perhaps I can get rid of it. Problem is I'm not sure, so I could be trying to scrap up something thats not even there. (sigh) It can never be simple for me.

Thanks for that. I'll look into it.

its not what is referred to as "grain" is it? are they parallel? or just random? anyway , isopropyl alcohol is the only thing that got rid of my "gunk" goo gone was marginal

If all the hair like lines are in the same direction then they are probably the polarization lines. They may not be visible in the projection, so don't be discouraged yet. If they are randomly oriented then they may be just fibers from the cotton you used.

Be patient with the edges. If the a/g is really just a thin strip around the edges then it might be better just to leave them alone for now since the edges will most probably be covered in the projection anyways.

nah they are circular and clearly came from wiping it.

ah well, I've got some scuffs on mine from removing the ag too..don't show up in the projection though....

Just took another look and I really think its the TAC thats scuffed.

Take a look at this drawing. In some spots, usually where the antiglare split, there are straight lines in the lcd. I ran my finger across one and I felt a very VERY mild bump as my finger crossed over the line. It looks like an additional layer on top of the polarizer, beneath the antiglare. I'm guessing its TAC.

If I'm lucky, these scuffs are only on the Tac. (I bet they are since it seemed to scuff real easy on my 512N.

I may be able to remove it with stripper, but the problem is I won't be able to sand it, because I can barely see what I think is the tac. Do you think I can get it off without sanding?

Oh and is it dangerous for the stripper to be applied to the bare polarizer? Usually its just applied to the antiglare and scraped off. But if it comes in contact with the bare polarizer, how quickly could it do some damage?

Do not apply paint stripper directly to the polarizer! I had the same problem you did....a small bit of antiglare remained that I could not get off. Additional soaking did not work, so I tried paint stripper. After 2 30 min applications, the polarizer started to crack and split where it had come in contact with the stripper. I ended up having to completely remove the polarizer.

Also, try using denatured alcohol if nothing else works to get those circular "scratches" out. It worked great on removing similar marks on my panel.

It sure does sound like the cotton fibers sticking to the residue glue. Try some of the other solutions first before taking any drastic measures. Denatured alcohol and/or ammonia free window cleaner (may be the same thing).

Thats what I'm afraid of. Not sure what to do. Tried regular rubbing alchohol, goo gone, ammonia, and just plane water. Nothing worked so far.

I don't know why hard water didn't work. I didn't think that would effect permeability?

Did you reinforce the anti-glare with tape before pulling it up?

It is not very likely that you have just pulled up the anti-glare and left the TAC. Those two layers are usually chemically bonded.

If you can get at an edge of the remaining TAC, then I would just soak those sections with a long soak (don't let water pool directly on the TAC) and then reinforce them with tape.

Mark.

Mikau, this is the best I can advise you with the usage of Stripper at this point in your mod.

1. PVA can tolerate Mythelene Chloride as long as the structure of this layer has not been compromised and that Stripper was not left on for a very long time and/or from serious scarring due to over excessive sanding.

2. Uncertain what state the structure of your PVA is after the ragging.

3. If it is just TAC there is no need to sand, TAC is just plastic that melts away using Stripper.

As Chad N. said, his additional ragging then multiple Strippering doesn't seem to be a good combination from what I've seen from others as well. If it were me I'd just rag the area where the TAC is and not on the exposed PVA and try at it's corner with the tape as Mark suggest. Perhaps (and this is what I read from another member) placing a 'warm cloth rag' nuked in microwave and placed over the wet rags and TAC that your trying to remove.
sim

Well I've got almost all the antiglare off. But I think the additional soaking was too much, grain is begining to appear. (45 degree paralell lines) dog gone it. :angry: Nothing can ever go right for me.

So your suggesting soaking with warm water?

I fear I may have to go with total removal. :angry: I need to either apply water or stripper to get up the tac and grain is already appearing. Its just going to get worse.

This rots because I really think the low transmitance of the polarization.com polarizar actually makes no improvement over an lcd polar with antiglare. But hopefully they will have that lcd grade polar in stock soon.

I can vouch for the quality of the 3Dlens polarizer and will say with confidence that replacing my polarizer resulted in a MUCH better picture than leaving my antiglare on. I've heard some say that the 3Dlens polarizer is of poor quality, but that has not been my experience at all. Mine's taped to my LCD and maintains good contact with the panel by being held in place with the original metal and plastic frame from my LCD.

I have no complaints at all.

Too warm of water will cause PVA dissolution. Not good. We have done no experimentation to see at what temperature this starts to occur rapidly.

Mark.

Well after grain started appearing everywhere I resigned myself to total removal. I peeled off the polarizer and it came off all in one piece. No substrate glue came off like last time. Thank heavens for that. Now I just have to strip my lcd.



Perhaps. But I ordered my replacement from polarization.com and it seems to be far less transmissive. Its odd, both lcd polarizers I removed seem to have a more brownish tint to them. While the polarization.com is like a pair of sunglasses with a dark bluish black tint.

I'm pretty dissapointed, initial testing on the 512N with the new polarizer should a projection that was almost worse then before. Colors were deeper but it wasn't bright at all.

If only I could fine a real lcd polarizer.

The non-adhesive polarizer from polarization.com is identical to my stock CMV 522A polarizer in terms of light transmittance. Unfortunately, it comes all curled up, which is completely useless.

I just e-mailed them and asked of any suggestions to flatten the stuff out.

I've used this successfully without the need to have it completely flat... just used binder clips to hold it to the lexan/fresnel combo...