I am trying to strip a Hyundai L72S, using the sanding/stripper method. I masked the panel with quick release masking tape, and sanded in small circles with 320 grit until I could see an even amount of light scratches across the surface. I used a stipper called CitriStrip, it says "30 minute stripping" on the can. I should have got KleanStrip from walmart, but, I thought this would be safer, as it doesn't contain, uh, whatever causes cancer in Kleanstrip. So, I masked it all off and put the stripper on, it is a foam spray. I sprayed it evenly across the surface, and let it set for about 30-45 minutes, checking on it every so often. The foam kinda set up into a gel, so I scrapped it off, cleaned the panel with Mineral Spirits, and put another coat on. No change really. The scratches are kinda swelled up and the AG is sticky/gummy, but is not coming off. Should I buy some kwickstrip and try it? Should I go with what I have and try to finish? Should I try to sand more?

Edit: Meant to post in the 75 page long topic, my bad. Mods should probably move this post.

We have not looked into the chemical makeup of the organic strippers. What we know is that in Klean-Strip and Jasco, there are active ingredients that destroy anti-glare, and leave PVA unharmed. So you would be kind of going on a tangent to try any other products. FWIW: Organic solvents and oils are supposed to be harmless to PVA in the short term, so you are probably okay. But if it doesn't obliterate the anti-glare, then it obviously needs to be swapped.

Did you try ragging?

Mark.

Yes, by all means clean off what you have, and buy the KS-3 Klean Strip.

My first attempt was with a less potent stripper that did nothing unless left on for a loooong time. Unfortunately, leaving the stripper on for such a long time made my polarizer underneath bubble up.

Also, don't touch the masking tape covering the TABS going into the LCD until you are done. I re-masked the panel after each stripper cleanup and reapplication. I think maybe the tape pulling on the TAB damaged it, and now my CMV 520D has lines running across it.

I am going to get some Klean-Strip today. No, I didn't try ragging after seeing the results others had with the L72S, I thought this would be the easy route.(haha) Also, what is the best tape to mask with? I am using 3M Clean Release, and it looks like it soaks under it, because it looks transparent after sometime, but when i lift it off, the surface under it looks dry.

Yoder

I would try the Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover. I have done some reading, and a few people on the web say it is more potent than KS-3.

Looking back, KS-3 are the only panels that have bubbled, though not many have been done with Jasco. Sonic also spoke with a chemist at Jasco, and she thought it would serve this job quite well. That is encouraging.

Mark.

Also, what is the best clean-up stuff to use, I have heard de-nat Alchohol, meth spirits, etc... I used mineral spirits, and the are quite oily.

Yoder

Edit: just found some Jasco, quite a drive away though... Going to get it.

I would not sand it again. You may have compromised the layer already to the point of uneven a/g film across the panel after using a less potent stripper. Might marr the polar if you do. Just pour, wait 15 and try, if you notice it's coming off then proceed. Again, try not to go past 30 minutes on each application. And work fast, less risks. Also by working fast you may be able to strip all the way to the edges without masking. Just be careful not to get this running onto the otherside or onto the fcc's. If you do then wipe immediately with alcohol. When scraping you may feel like your digging deep then you should thats normal, your scraping off 2 layers...a/g and TAC.
Good luck
sim

Even though they are an organic solvent, Mineral Spirits are damaging in the long term to the polarizer. I would try to avoid them.

Just alcohol for the cleanup, as per SIMUL8R's instructions.

Mark.

Well, I am back, I didn't get alchohol, I asked the paint store guy, and he said use water with Jasco... Do I need to go get alchohol now? I also got some non-amonia window cleaner(glass plus). Should I go get alchohol?

Ok, got 3 bottles of alchohol... I am getting ready to try again. Once again, sorry for making a new topic, in my panic, I must have hit New Topic, instead of reply.

good luck.

it seems these L72S panels really are a pain in the butt

Yoder: First off, I've used the stripper method 3 times using Klean Strip Stripper. Twice on my current panel for the front a/g and TAC and then the otherside TAC. The reason why I advise using alcohol *Denatured is because as the a/g and TAC dissolves it becomes a mess of goop that is then putty knifed off, however, as you putty knife you are also actually smearing the goop across the panel as well. The alcohol helped me a great deal wiping off most of the smear before it had a chance to solidify back onto the polar *PVA almost adhesively. The quicker I putty knifed and then wiped with alcohol the less work that had to be done.

I have not tried Jasco but I assume it is just the same as Klean Strip maybe stronger but using water may not help you wiping away the smear before it begins to solidify. It may just accelerate it. I could be wrong. But I'm offering my experience that have worked for me in the past. Unless your willing to try a small corner of your panel as advised by the paint store guy that would be up to you. Remember we are not dealing with some ordinary house paint here that is on a wooden wall either. I suppose the paint guy may have provided you advise as to how the stripper would be commonly applied in this case. It would be interesting though if water does do a better job, but remember PVA is permeable to water (Mark, help me here).

I must warn you though, you have already introduced your panel to chemicals already prior to going out and purchasing a better stripper. I just hope you have caught it in time before the unthinkable has taken affect.
sim

btw, same goes with amonia.

So far so good, 2 applications and most of the center is off, just the edges/corners remain, and they are starting to come up. Someone needs to make a clear guide on this, without having to read through 2900+ posts in the main topic. I read and read, but not enough. I mainly researched the ragsoak method, since thats what I thought would work, and what me and my friend did on his CMV CT-529A. There is a whole lot of good info on that topic, but there is soooo much to sift through. Anyway, it is looking good, we see how it goes.

Yoder

I am now on my 5th application, the whole center is clear, and a few spots around the top and bottom remain. Also a little alll the way around the masking. This Jasco is much better to work with, and doesn't stink either, so thats good. Right now the polar bear looks good, so I will keep stripping in 30 minutes sessions till it is off.

Yoder

Great, crossing my fingers for you. I would comment on the 30 min sessions but if it's working then more power to you.
sim

I am now on application number 8 now, just have some slight spots and streaks around the pixel border. ... It is working very well, and I am convinced my sanding job was very inadequate. I didn't sand good on the edges and that is what is taking so long. The stripper has not harmed the polar in anyway so far, the it cleans up very easy using iso alc. Thank you all for your help, i was freaking out! Seriously, you all saved my arse, I thought I F'ed up a brand new $230 panel.
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</h2> Yoder

glad to hear everything looks ok.. the really scary part will be switching it back on again..

Yeah, don't remind me!

The real crazy part will be switching it back on again. Oh. Sorry. .

Jasco's main feature is that it cleans up with water. With Klean-Strip they recommend a neutralizer, but I imagine the alcohol does a good enough of a job.

If alcohol is working to clean it up, then stick with alcohol for sure.

Aren't the procedures that SIM and I posted in the removal process thread okay?

Mark.

Good job, but just to clarify for others....the panel is not *F'ed up* if it came to that, it's just the polarizer. If worst came to worst just remove and replace polar with a nonadhesive polar and you will be fine.
sim

ps, again good job Yoder

Yeah, it worked! It took me 10 applications! Although, 3 or 4 of them were to small spots/streaks along the edges with a q-tip. I cleaned it like 20 times with iso alc before I put it up, and when I picked it up, I noticed a glob of something on the other side of the LCD, in the middle, it cant be stripper, because there is no way stripper got in the middle of the underside, I was quite careful. So now I am going to clean that up, and hook her up, and she if it works(fingers crossed). I would recommend everyone sands better than I did, I was scared of scratching the polar. I didn't sand evenly enough to the sides. I would also recommend getting the right stripper the first time, and also having about 5000 paper towels ripped of the rolls in a stack for fast clean up. Well, thanks alot guys!

Ok, I've got a little gunk on the rear of the panel(TAC i guess), and I cleaned most of it off. But now I've got a very small bubble on the rear side of the panel. It is very very small... IS there anyway to get rid of it? How can I clean up the gunk, or should I let it be?

This bubble is IN or ON the polar? If it's IN then determine which side, if it's ON (side of a/g) then determine if it's not just a spot of remaining TAC and remove with putty knife and alchy or little more stripper. Pics would be nice at this time.
sim

My camera needs to batteries, sorry about no pics, and my girlfriend is on my ass to clean house. The bubble feels like it is on the rear side of the panel. It is really really small, and I pushed down on it, and it went flat again and stuck down. I powered on the monitor and it seems to be working just fine, I didn't see any lines/ colorless spots so far, although the stripper soaked into the edges overnight I guess(even though I cleaned it for 30 mins with alc). The edges that are seperated are JUST outside of the pixel boarder, so I hope it doesn't spread inward. When I get batteries I will take some pics. I still couldn't get all the goo up, but it is real light, will it show up in my projection you think? I stopped right away when I saw the bubble forming, and there is no scratch around it where something could soak in BTW.

If you cannot get it to go away, then you could strip the rear TAC as well. Personally I would try ragging it first, then stripper there because I think so far we have found no rear TAC's that do not take to ragging.

Very annoying that the edges are coming up. There really never should have been any stripper at the very edges, if I understand the procedure correctly.

Mark.

Agreed, Yoder, use the rag method for the rear since there is no a/g on this side it should be easier. I think you accidently allowed some stripper or goop to touch this side and now this side's TAC has been affected. There is no way that stripper ate thru your substrate and then affected the other polar. Sorry to hear about the edges but you did use more than 10 applications @ 30 minute durations but I understand it was because of not enough sanding as you mentioned. I was able to do this but there was some careful hand pressure in the process with the putty knife and quick applications.

Interesting you are going to be one of the few who have both TAC's removed but seeing that you have no experience with just the front remove and now diving into both you wouldn't be able to compare and submit your findings. Perhaps, comparing with your friend's a/g removal..hehehe?
sim

Well, if I remove the layer on the rear of the panel, is that polarizer or is it a coating of some kind. I don't want to remove the polarizer if I dont have too. You said the rear TAC rags well. Sorry for sounding stupid, but what is the rear TAC exactly? Also my strip sessions were not all 30 minutes, some were just 10-15 with the q-tip. I masked the edges with 3 layers of masking tape, so I dont know how it got on the rear side of the panel. Could i clean up those spots on the rear side of the LCD with stripper? Or would that immediatly eat a hole in the rear of the panel?

If you flip the panel anti-glare side down the order from the top down is:

TAC,
PVA (polarizer),
TAC,
Adhesive,
Glass.

You will only be removing the uppermost TAC. So plastic (PVA and bottom TAC) will still be glued to the panel when you are done.

The only difference is that instead of removing TAC and anti-glare to expose the PVA, you only have TAC to eat through. That also means that water should work, as the anti-gare layer is thought to be the blame for panels that are not taking to water.

Stripper will eat through the TAC just the same as it did on the front, so the idea of cleaning up a spot with stripper is impossible.

edit but make sure you know exactly what you are dealing with, and if it really is a problem before trying this.

Mark.

Hmm. Removing the TAC "sounds" easy, I just have to rag it, will it come off in a sheet like the AG on raggable panels? Any special precautions? When I meant I thought about using stripper on the rear to clean the goop, I meant like 10-15 seconds... just enough to loosen it up... In theory, the front polar is not affected by Jasco stripper either right? But, your right, if i dont have to, i probably wont mess with it...

Yoder, I assume you read there is to read on a/g removal before taking the plunge. Please understand that we offer no guarantees and pretty much this is all experimental cause we don't know the full outcome by doing this, hence, the reason why I created the thread of removal done by others. If you have read the first page it also asks for what affects may occur during the duration after the mod. We only suggest if you are bothered by the 'little' bubble then use the rag method but if not then don't do it, it's really your choice.
sim

BTW, just for you info, when I removed my rear TAC with stripper there was no need to sand. Thought I throw that in depending on what your deciding on.
sim

Your rear polar was unharmed?

Polar (PVA) is the same for front and back of LCD. But again, as Mark suggested, try the rag method since the front a/g was more to blame for some of the issues by others who perfomed whichever mod. TAC is more permeable and should come off easier.
sim