what was the actual lcd panel itself... model number/manufacturer if you can find it?

Sound like you damaged the polarizer, but the you shouldn't have to replace the lcd. Check out the other thread, there are quite a few people who have purchased replacement polarizers.

Rhino

AS STATED IN THE BEGINNING OF THIS THREAD. WE'D LIKE TO KEEP THIS FREE OF USELESS INFORMATION FOR EASIER REFERRENCE FOR OTHERS TO RESEARCH AND SUCH. PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS THREAD AS DISCUSSION BOARD. ONLY POST TYPE OF MONITOR, METHOD OF REMOVAL AND FINDINGS. PROCEED TO THE ORIGINAL THREAD ' LL Projector Lumens Theory' FOR ANY AND ALL DISCUSSIONS AND/OR ADVISE. OR PRIVATE MESSAGE THE MEMBER IF YOU WISH TO ASSIST HIM ON FURTHER INFORMATION. ALL YOUR HELP TO KEEP THIS STRING OF INFORMATION SHORT AND SIMPLE WOULD BE A GREAT BENEFIT TO US MEMBERS INTERESTED IN REMOVING ANTIGLARE FROM OUR PROJECTORS.

THANK YOU.
SIMUL8R

Sim,

I do not think that my post was out of place, or off topic. I realize that you want to keep the thread short and concise, but if people read jmappus results, with his claim that he will have to replace his LCD, it might lead to others into thinking if they ruin the polarizer, then they must buy a new LCD.

People are probably only going to read the sucess thread, and not the 140 pages of discussion that lead to it.
jmappus's post is providing mis-information, that I believe needs to be corrected, not just for him, but for everyone.

Perhaps I did not phrase my post properly. I should have identified that it was a correction to jmappus's post, not just advise for him directly. I had noticed that others have been allowed to post responses that help clarify others results, and I was just attempting to do the same.

If this makes sense, then could you post on your thread clarifying the above?

Oh, and all caps, bold type in red gives the impression of someone shouting in anger...I do hope that wasn't the case.

Rhino

It looks like the original post was fixed as to the "Why replace"

With the idea being to keep discussion off of that thread, I felt it best to move the posts. I did it, not Sim.

Since there are also failures listed there, It should present a somewhat balanced outcome.

My opinion is still that AG removal is a gamble, and one that should not be undertaken unless one is prepared to accept the consequenses of losing, and I'll make that clear to anyone that asks.

Which non ammonia window cleaner did you use, i might have to go back to clean mine up as ive never projected through it

It is a Don Aslett's window cleaner. My wife says its just like Glass Plus, so there's a good chance that would work too. I takes all the milky adhesive off and the polarizer layer is no longer tacky.

The Don Aslett's window cleaner is a isopropyl alcohol solution (in concentrate: 11.3%; in working, use solution: 0.72%).

Ok, I'm gonna ask this in a much nicer way this time...Can we please keep discussion off this thread. Because of the many complaints by members who thought the original thread was way to lengthy to read I decicded to create this for easier reference as well as for our research.

Come on guys, I'm down on my polars begging ya's...heheehee
sim

Does anyone know if Home depot carry Klean Strip KS-3 Premium Stripper?

thanks

It should be very obvious wether you have anti-glare or not. Please be sure to read as much as you can. I'm concerned that you may not have gone into this with enough information as you need to identifying how thick the anti-glare is relative to the rest of the polarizer, not just wether you have anti-glare or not.It is often/always? water permeable.Whatever you want. We have presented several options:

1. Stripper.

2. Polish.

3. Polarizer Replacement.

4. Nothing.

edit Oops. This conversation happened on SIM's results only thread again.

sniff.....running out of erasers...sniff....

Where's SupraGuy when you need him......hehehehe
sim

Sorry guys, I've been pretty tied up lately, but I've just pruned through a bunch of OT posts.

Aleks, be aware that this lcd model has AG on BOTH SIDES!

really? thats kind of weird as i dont see why it would need it on both sides.

Depending on how an LCD is made they generally have small tubes or EL wires behind the LCD covered by a few layers of diffuse material to even out the light. Some mfr's might see it as cheaper to simply use a diffuse layer directly on the LCD. Most of the dissections I have seen use 2-5 sheets of diffuse plastic layer between the light and the LCD. It all comes down to the very low margin of profit that some of the companies live in.

MODERATOR: We may want to move this question and comment to another section to keep this section clear.

Done. Thanks, SJ.