Alrighty, let the fun begin!

I'm going to start the plog for this PJ before I start construction. First let's clear up some issues. After some reading about the basic pro lens/unslpit lens config, I came up with these issues, can everyone help me get these cleared up before we go on?

Issue #1:
When using unsplit fresnel config - bulb to fresnel distance goes from 220 (I use 210-205) to about 175mm? Can anyone confirm?

Issue #2:
In order to place both fresnels together they must be very precicely aligned, and still might yeild raibows and weird optical effects. So it's best to leave at least a 5mm gap between both lenses, and leave the same gap to the LCD to prevent grooves in projected image. 5mm OK?

Issue #3:
LCD to triplet 550 to 600mm. To the optical center of the triplet? Or rear?

Issue #4:
Using a folded design, LCD must be flipped so the antiglare surface is facing the triplet. This is not an issue for me with Minoten's controller because it can flip or rotate image.

Issue #5
If the bulb does need to move forward to about 175mm, the fresnels need to be about 5mm larger then the LCD. True, False?


Okay here is my preliminary design, unrevised untill we can clear up the above issues. I'd like to shorten this box by moving the bulb to 175mm and move the mirror closer to the LCD, so more light and bigger image pass through the triplet. Maybee 500mm triplet to LCD?

Okay looks like the new calc can help, looks like 587mm, but to the optical center or rear? Guess I'll just have to make sure the triplet can move a good 40mm forward and backward.


* edit - this diagram now shows diagonal distances *

the WUXGA is 15.4 inches, but you can use mm in Focalcalc. Enter 391mm becuase it wont let you enter 15.4 inches

Sweet! While I can't offer much mathematical help right now (my noodle's kinda baked from work), I'll be following this PLOG closely.

I'm tempted to make a conversion to this panel (or one like it) in the future. Are you going to try any antiglare removal? The methods are getting safer all the time... I'm seriously curious to see what this puppy can do!

Issue #1
Ive been thinking the same thing, i guess we will just have to try it.

Issue #2
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...opic=7912&st=20

Issue #3
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...40&#entry100603

Issue #4
You can also swing the circuit board 180 degrees.

Issue #5
I would say true, my frensels would have been 4mm on all sides larger than the LCD. I was told it should work but i redesigned my PJ so the frensels are larger now.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...opic=7912&st=20

Will you do keystoning? If you dont you dont really need to shorten the box. Im thinking of just altering the height of the PJ to match the projection.

Looking good FLY CRJ

Issue #1: When using unsplit optics the reason the lamp has to move forward is because the 320mm FL Fresnel used for the standard set is not perfectly matched to the triplet. If you look at the focal calculator’s LCD distance you will notice that it will be larger than the Fresnel FL, some ware about 360mm, and then you have the gap between the LCD and Fresnel as well. This adds up to about 380mm. So in order for the light to enter the triplet the lamp needs to move forward to stretch it out further. For the pro triplet I think the FL is a bit better matched but some joggling of the arc distance will still be necessary it can’t be avoided.

Issue #2: This artefact is a combination of two different faults. One is called moire pattern and it is where two patterns are overlade on top of each other and form a third pattern. The other fault is from pushing the fresnel’s specifications. In extreme situations the fresnel rings turn to a burnt brown colour. This is cause by total internal reflections. Instead of the fresnel facets refracting the light they reflect it. If all your optics are matched perfectly then this pattern is not visible. But because the lamp is not in its ideal position and the fresnels are not perfectly matched the faults becomes very visible. Allowing a gap between the fresnels will help to hide these artefacts. I would allow a bit more than 5mm between the fresnel and the triplet. Because the pro triplet has a longer FL it will probably have better depth of field. This means that more space may be needed between the Fresnel and LCD so that the artefacts are not aloud to be resolved by the triplet. You really need to get hold of the pro triplet first to get an idea of what will work

Issue #3: The focal calculator’s distances are to the vertical plane of the triplet. This is some ware in-between the front and back of the triplet. The centre is the rule of thumb.

Issue #4: Theoretically the LCD should be run the same way as it is when used as a normal monitor but the difference in quality is probably not noticeable.

Issue #5: Although the fresnels need to be larger than the LCD it is not related to the lamp position unless you are running split optics.

DJ

Looks like another update is comming.

It will be a small fix. BTW DAZZZLA how do you calculate the projection cone any ideas? Looking at FLY CRJ diagram the cone enters the center of the triplet. On other drawings the cone exits the triplet with the edges of the prjection cone at the outer sides of the triplet
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...opic=6837&st=60

Sry FLY CRJ for posting this on your Plog

Awesome guys, I think those few posts pretty much summed up all the issues and concepts with using the pro lenses unslpit.

There is a mistake I made in my diagram. The light cone exiting the triplet, I only drew 500mm long, and should be 650mm long (fresnel FL) This should fix the light cone width entering the triplet.

The distances in the focal calc are horizontal only as of now. The 15.4" panel is 330mm wide or 13"

I'll update the diagram soon, I'm also thinking of only making the box 24" long with the triplet sticking out way far from the box. I really want to take advatage of this panel's size. I'm aiming for a 12" high x 24" long box.

No keystoning. I'm going to place this PJ on a shelf projecting to the opposite wall. I'm not too much of a fan of keystoning - my image focus really blows now and I don't wan't to compromise any quality from this panel.

Yes, I am seriously considering it. I will probably try it on my 15" PJ first. The only thing I am worried about is scratching or disolving the polarizer. I will have to read up more, but what surface is underneath the AG? Is is just glass?

There are several layers below the antiglare, but it's essentially antiglare -> polarizer -> LCD (glass). The water-ragging technique seems like to most non-destructive, but the Klean Stripp stripper is easy to work with, too. It eats away at the antiglare, but doesn't seep into the polarizer at all (unless you've scratched it). I still have some edge cleanup to do, and a little glue residue on my panel, so I'm going to apply another coat of stripper. I'll let everyone know if there's any damage.

The layers of the antiglare/polar is > antiglare-TAC-PVA/polar-TAC then adhesed to the LCD. The layer that we remove by the methods are antiglare-TAC. As far as my method stripper, methylene chloride does not effect PVA/polar unless left on for many many hours. As long as proper sanding is done prior to application then putty knifing or squeegeeing off the stripper after 15 to 30 minutes will remove the antiglare and TAC in a gooey substance, then clean with denatured alcohol. It is easy to work with but take caution when laying it on and not close to the fcc's and/or circuit board. Also, if you don't want to affect the otherside polar of the LCD such as this side's TAC don't let the chemical run over and touch this or wipe it off immediately. If it does affect this then removing this side's TAC will have to be also performed which may provide you even more enhancement.

Both 'rag' ala Mark's and my method will work for both sides but given the allowable time that they must be performed and the confidence in the technique.

Dweez: there won't be any damage to the PVA removing the edges just lay it on and wait 10 to 15 minutes depending on the amount of edges you have left. But remember if it runs over to the otherside and affects the other TAC then you will know what to do. I currently have both TAC's removed so my panel is like this:
PVA-TAC-LCD-TAC-PVA this is at best the maximum of enhancement that can be performed while the polars are still adhesed to the panel and some have taken this route for the sake of experimentation.
sim

Here is my updated diagram. I might need to extend the box length a few more inches to allow for the reflector mount, but nonetheless this is ballpark'n it. The triplet mount is shown as a 6" something. Most likely PVC.

Pretty stinkin' small for a pro lens PJ Smaller then both my 15s.

Nice design. Looks like it'll be fairly easy to wall-mount that design.

Check out this post -- someone's suggesting the Mintoten WUXGA panel uses a different surface treatment. Tread lightly...

I don't think it does. I think it still has the Antiglare.

Minoltens screens are just the Sharp LQ154M1LW02 - 15.4" laptop screens . And they come from Sharp with the antiglare on them.

Course the new batch may be different.

We'll find out soon enough, Minoten is getting ready to ship the LCD & Controller.

Yep that was my fault, seems i was wrong

But i have to say im itching for someone to try removing the antiglare on that panel.

I havent ecen taken mine out the box yet....

Time for a little update:

I ordered a 12x8" FS mirror and a 9x9" piece of IR glass from DIY projector company. Figuring how long it took my last order to come, I figured I'd order it now. It slipped my mind, the size of your mirror is going to affect the size and length of your box. So in my case LL's FS mirror is a monster for my panel. DIYPJ company had the size I needed. So my design needs to change yet again But I'll do that later.

Worked on this diagram tonight. This PJ is going to be an all aluminium frame and exterior. The table saw gets to sit on the bench and the dremel, drill press and hack saw get to come out and play. The drill press is my favorite!

The frame design is alot like the others seen here, but I'm going to add a little of me to it. The best idea I had was to screw the fresnel lenses directly to their frame. Since this is an unsplit design, the grooves would be sealed from outside dust, and the frame keeps the lenses flat and the exact same distance from eachother all the way around the frame. Basically results in trouble and maintenance free lenses! Check out the bottom of the diagram.

The lenses have also been enlarged 10mm more then the LCDs active area to account for diverging light from the 550mm fresnel. With a 15mm gap between LCD and lens my homework says 5mm larger is the minimum, so i'm going with 10mm for a distance of up to 20mm from the LCD with light on the edge to spare.

To explain the diagram futher, the light blue is the active fresnel area, the dark blue is the LCD frame (it's own) , and the white is the 12x8 FS mirror. This diagram basically tells me if I have enough clearance as if I were looking through the PJ from the lamps POV.

380x290 is the final box dimensions this stage in the design. Aluminium panels will attach to the main frame (shown by the gray squares) with thumb screws around the whole PJ, making things easy to access.

Fly, Nice design.

Hmmm. How did you calculate this? I am rebuilding my frames for my 15" lcd standard LL lenses with the split config. I made the fresnel lenses only as big as the lcd. Will this cause me problems or is this only an issue for the unsplit design?

Only an issue with an unsplit design. If you are doing alot of keystoning though you want the 330mm lens to be a little taller.

Here is how I am calculating this. Drawing it full scale in Illustrator! This diagram shows the 650mm lense 10mm larger then the LCD. Light cone is diverging to a point 650mm to the right. Looks like with even a 25mm gap the edges of the LCD are still lit.

* edit Grrr, I keep using 550mm in my diagrams for the fresnel! Should all be 650mm! *

Cool. I will be following your progress. I am planning on making a 17" vertical using the pro lens w/ unsplit optics and no keystoning (and possibly making it out of aluminum). I agree that encasing the fresnels facing eachother is a good idea as it will elimate the possibilty of dust getting in the grooves, the smooth side is much easier to clean! I'm taking the easy route with the frames and ordering some spring clip frames that (I am hoping) will keep the fresnels flat and bow-free. Good luck!

Small update!

Starting to think about the electrical. I have had no problems with the basic two single pole & throw (SPST) design so I am going to use it again. Coupled with a PC style 12v fan controller I have been very happy. It's basic and gets the job done. This is the Toggle Switch I have selected. Basic, heavy duty feel that I like when I'm turning on lights, fuel pumps and all the other "thingys" in the Cessnas.

Dumping the wall wart for this
Transformer

Hey I could of used these a long time ago...
Insulated Standoffs

Also this is the best DVI bulkhead I've found yet. It's nice and small, but I have not ordered it yet. Still looking for some other options. I sure would like to get just two DVI connectors and wire it myself for the internal run to the controller board. If anyone knows where I can pick some up please let me know!
DVI Bulkhead F/F

Also getting some ideas with this puppy
LIS LCD

you may want to keep the wall transformer. you will need to bridge rectify that transformer and the resulting DC voltage will be sig higher then 12V. although, im sure your wall transformer is already around 17V.

Nice build plan btw.

Presents are slowly arriving at my door!

First off, I finnaly found the DVI receptacle I was looking for. This receptacle will mount to the side of the box where I can plug in my DVI cable. I will be wiring it myself to the controller board via DVI cable with one end cut off and the wires soldered to small round copper connectors, and those will slide onto the receptacles pins making soldering a snap. This will make the DVI cable inside the PJ only as long as I need it. I bought more then a few cause I knew someone here would also need one.

This is a Molex brand PCB Receptacle Vertical 30 pin DVI connector. If anyone would like one, I can get a vertical pinout (like the pic) or a right angle (used for video cards) for $12 shipped (US only). PM me with qty and shiping address and I can give you my paypal...Of course this still has to be run by Brain for approval. I only have a few right now so if I find no one wants any, I won't order anymore. I've worked out a good deal with a local supplier.



Besides that I've been doing some aluminium shopping. I have 18 ft of 3/4" square tubing and 3 ft of 1/8" x 1 1/2" angle and some smaller 1/16" 1" angle. The 1/8" angle will be used to make custom L braces to fasten the frame. Using the L brackets you buy at HD or Lowes I found the holes to vary in location and they weren't always a perfect 90 degree angle.

Going to use 6-32 3/8" hex screws, got a tap and drill too at Ace..."The Friendly Place"


Also picked up a 5A circuit breaker and an EMI filter - no big deal really. A little side note too - LCD & Controller should be shipping from minoten very soon.

I think it might be distracting to have a bright blue blinky? thing on the side of your projector, especially if its between the viewers and the screen. You might want to plan ahead and design a flip up cover for it. The lights on my amp are distracting enough, and they don't blink...

Well, now I feel like a kid who has just stomped on another kids sand castle, and then realized how mean he was

Yeah, that will be AC current coming out of there won't it? It would have been fun to build a power supply.. kind of wish I took that route. Anyways, he just needs four diodes to fix the AC current problem, $1.00 worth of parts? The 17 volts? I don't think an extra 5v will hurt the fans, he can use resistors or even a pointometer to vary the voltage (speed) if he wishes.

Lucky_Me,

Would this work I was thinking of trying it. 5 amp power supply kit I have had good luck with Carls kits.

Hey I remember seeing that icon! lol

Would it work, at first glimpse it would seem so. But really, you have look into it for yourself, I make educated guesses on things and sometimes I am wrong. I would be sure that what ever power supply you use puts out enough amperage. You have to look at more than just voltage. That link said something about 2amps. I have .19amp fans, therefor it would power ten of my fans (I have twelve therefor it's inadequate for me).

Anyways, it should potentially power ten of my fans but I would only use it to power nine. I'd leave that extra little bit of amperage availabe as a cushion. You should always spec a little higher than you actually need.

~Lucky

That one has a max 32v line in, no good. We need 110v.

This one is better but still is only .2 amps. That could power a few fans but I am looking for one transformer that will power the LCD and fans. I guess I could use the included power adapter for the controller, but I would really like to keep the clutter down inside the PJ and make mounting easy. I just wanna do things the right way and not McGiver style it. Heh

Looking into this more I came accross this

Then after reading that It says " This design can be used to rectify single phase AC when no transformer center tap is available" but the transformer I was looking at from radio shack was a center tap? I'm cornfuzed. From my understanding this rectifier just enables the polarities to be reversed, so no matter how you plug in the device it's powering isn't fried.

Brutuz sent me the specs on the controller power brick: Input 100v-220v 12v 6.5A 75W output.

So looks like I need about 7A 12v DC from a 110v source. Am I being realistic here? Lucky, can you elaborate on the diodes needed?

Hit the gold mine here

Looks like the ransformer + Rectifier + Smoothing + Regulator setup is what I need

You can use some 7812s in || to up your amperage and dead peg 12 volts, but i would diode guard them all.

Good luck , i suggest you just buy a power supply if you do not have experience with power systems.


and heat sink the things like mad too.




http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM138.pdf

For the guy intrested in building a LM138/338 circuit

I would suggest using an computer AT power supply. Very commom and cheap. They are switching power supplies, therefore more efficient. Most are rated 8-10 Amps on 12V rail, input switchable 110-220. Note ** 5 volt rail may need a small load to properly regulate 12 volt rail.

DIAL UP WARNING!!!

Not to change the subject, but here are some screenies to up the spirits in the WUXGA crowd. Hang in there guys. These 1080 sources were taken in WMP with hardware acceleration off, so the contrast is a little screwy. Full screen on my 1680x1050 21" Dell 2005FPW, so it slightly scaled (30 pixles too short) Enjoy!

Pics removed 1-02-06 to help w/bandwidth

Damn Fly thats big clear but big I'm being tempted to go up to a 17" but that probaly wouldn't be a good idea with a 250 bulb.

Damn, that last picture looks good!

It cheered me up until I realized it wasn't the same panel

If I can get a projection that looks that good I'll be more than happy and it will have been worth the wait. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

~Lucky

Well I am at a big fork in the road right now. I have managed to pick up a 42" Panasonic Plasma for FREE, a "loaner" from the old man. He had no use for it, it was getting dusty, and he likes his Sony rear projection more (probably cause its native 720p). I was contemplating even taking him up on the offer cause of the mods needed to my current setup to use this TV. But I ended up taking him up on the offer cause its a FREE plasma TV.

I was thinking this TV could hold my big screen plauge over untill a later time, dazzle me with a bright picture, and I could complete this projector. I have alot on my plate right now, and I am contemplating even really starting this project right now. I am close to finishing my next rating at flight school and I have been extremely lazy in study. I would really like to concentrate on getting my life in order instead of worring about all these hobby projects I have going.

So I think I will be setting up this TV and taking down my PJ, take it apart and keep what I need for this new PJ, and worry about building when I have more free time.

Taking my PJ down is a huge descision, I love this thing so much I can't even decide between it and a 42" Plasma! I was sorta dissapointed that it is not 720p capable, its just 480p. But I can hang it on the wall and save some space.

Hmmm.

Sometimes I get mad at myself cause I have so many expensive hobbies and go through "phases" Anyone else have this problem? Haha.

Oh yea! You're not alone there bud!

P.S. Can't help you with the decision, sounds like a tough one. (but personally, I don't think I like Plasma TV's).

Sell it to finance your new PJ!!!!

Hehe

Hi man ,
Well done mate been following both ur plogs was well impressed with the first one and have been reading the second but cannot seem to get the screenies up .Can see the comments on how good they are but nothings happening when i click on the link.Hope they havnt been removed .Is it possible for u to post them again or any idea what the problem is?

Many thanks and congratulations mate on a job well done.

So, It's been a while, heeh. I am ready to get back on the horse on this project. All the parts ended up getting boxed up and put in storage. My 15" PJ has been running trouble free for two years now, but its time to get started on this and upgrade. I have come across some sweet things you crazy cats have been up to, I really like the cube built out of 8020, bad ass. So guesswhat, the lame plain square tubing is going to sit this one out, and I will be using a 8020 frame from Thor Labs, and the PJ will be skinned in Black ABS or Polycarbonate, I was thinking about a tinted panel for the top of the PJ so you could see it in action, or maybee a slidable window.

Well anyways, stay tuned.