Hello everybody,

I've been contemplating the idea of building a projector for about a year. I first saw the idea on Tom's hardware site and that was it. I wanted one!!! I got an overhead projector from ebay and LCD at a local store. But the OHP arrived broken. It was ok to test the idea but the broken fresnel lens wasn't usable.

I then started searching the net to get a replacement when I stumbled on Lumenlab. What a great find! I'm a DIYer by nature so this should be very interesting. I'm not used to sharing my progress on the things I do. I usually show them when they're done. But this time, I decided to try this out. So here I go.

First I bought my LCD last year at Bureau-en-gros (Stapples in Quebec). It's a 15" BenQ FP531. It's already stripped down and has worked on my OHP for a few months already. So nothing to tell here.

I received my Kt001 from Lumenlab last Wednesday november 9th. This kit includes the following:

1022b 120V S400DD Ultimate Light Kit
1005 S15 Lens Kit
WK120V 120V Wiring Kit
UV1012 UV Filter 10" x 12"
WA120 AC Adaptor
WF12v Evercool PCAC Fan

On saturday, november 12th, I've bought the napkin reflector from IKEA.

And on sunday, november 13th, I will buy all the materials at Reno-Depot (local hardware store) to start the box buiding process.

The box will be based (I should say "copied") on the Haas projector.

While on the inspiration subject, I would like to thank everybody who did this before me. I would never have done this without you. All this information is invaluable. I really appreciate the hard work you all have done and specially the time you took to share the information!!

So, tomorow should be the first day of construction. Whish me luck! I'll need it!

good luck!

My first week of construction has gone relatively well.

Here's where I started: wood and a hammer !! That should be fun !

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And of course the lumenlab box...

Since I'm doing the Haas Box, I needed to cut in circles. I tried this method...

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but it didn't work. Finally did it with a jigsaw.

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The panels ended up ok except that my to sides are not the same size: one side is 6.75" and the other is 7.25". After some calculations, I found that it should have been 7". I tried to guess where my center was and I missed by half an inch.

Anyway, the difference is not that big so I'm keeping them that way.

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I also drilled the holes for the screws. By the way, there are 2 panels in the picture. They were both done at the same time.

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Since I'm going to open this box often, I needed some way of dissassembling it easilly.

I found these at the hardware store.

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I don't know if others have used them but it should help unscrewing the panels without damaging the screw holes.

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So this is what I've done up to now. I still don't know what to use for the top and bottom panels. Options are: wood, steel, macenite (if it's the right word). Any other idea ? I would prefer wood, but it's harder to curve.

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Another view...

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The type of wood is pine.

1/8" plywood - kind like hardboard. flexible, and will match your enclsure nicely
easily found at most hardware stores, or HD/Lowes

I'm back again with some udates. But first, here's a quick look at the prototype I did last year:

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Has I said before, the overhead projector arrived broken. The glass and fresnel lens were broken. This prototype convinced me that this project was a good idea as I watched a few movies with it (with a few lines in the picuture).

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Back to the task at hand. Not long after my last post, I did a minor touch to the side panels. Look so much better with routed sides...

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But wait, I need to add grooves for the top and botton panels...

Disassembling time!

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Since I don't have one of those big machines that you press a button or two and grooves appear, I needed to create a jig to have a precise groove and not a roller coaster ride across my panels.

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I attached this piece of wood to my router and I can't go wrong (well almost).

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Here are the finished grooves.

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I installed my top (or bottom, who knows ?) in its groove and watered it a little so it could take form.

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The wood blocks are there only to reduce the curves of the board. For some reason, it seems to want to get out of that groove by any way it can...

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Sometimes low tech is as good as hi tech. But is this too low ? ...

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From inside.

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Also, I started to work on the LCD mount.

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I started with 2 pieces of wood...

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But now I'm not sure where I'm going with it.

The LCD sits on the right track and the first fresnel will be on the left.

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Bine
I did a stint at a plywood factory in college. Boring Boring Boring.
One thing you can try is to make a form, hold down the sheets with some strips of tire tube and then place a moderately wet towel on it. Make sure its contacting in all areas and then run over it with a clothes iron. Steam bending the wood should give the glue enough time to shift and then the curve SHOULD stay. You may have to let it dry like that for several days.

SJ.

Thanks for the hint SJ, I'll try that.

So here are the top and bottom in progress:

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Just need to cut them a little bit.

I really like the look!

Bine that looks really good. You had me fooled with the first shot of the hammer and tape measure laying there on your living room floor. You've really built a nice case. Keep up the good work, it will definitely be worth while.

Double post ???

And here's my cat overseeing the project in case I make errors.

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I think she's sleeping on the job...

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The panels have been cut.

I installed 90-degrees braces to install my heat sheilds.

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I didn't want grooves to support the heat sheilds (like in the original Haas) because I want to be able to remove them whithout removing the side panels.

This is a sheet of galvanized steel.

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This is a sheet of galvanized steel that has been cut to specific dimensions.

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And this is a sheet of galvanized steel cut to specific dimensions installed as heat sheilds.

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And from the inside

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are you worried about the lamp heat on the upper dowel

I also installed the LCD support in there. I still don't know where I'm going with it...

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And after it was installed (of course), I realized that the rotation of the fresnel won't be possible with that support (see the wood triangle at the bottom left of the support, it's in the way).

Yes I am. I thought I might cover it later on. But it's been done this way by others so it may not be a problem. I dont' know.

Nice craftsmanship on the enclosure. I plan on doing a Haas style, myself, using edge glued pine also. Hope mine turns out as nice as yours.

My first projector is cieling mounted. It works good, but weighs about 40lbs, so I cannot take it down easily to do maintenence on it. I am building my second version to allow me access to the parts from the bottom. I will also incorporate the antiglare removal to get a clearer picture. I want to be able to slide the lower panel in and out while the projector is still mounted and remove and install all components from the bottom.

One idea I had was to use plexiglass as my bottom panel. This would allow me to show off the innards of the projector while it is working. You could even use a template to carve a design in a thin piece of tin to provide a glowing image on the projector when it is working. I figure I could install a dark UV shield or other type of filter if the bulb is too bright. If the groove is thick enough, you could install several layers of tin, plexiglass, UV shield, and anything else to provide the flexibility of looking inside just by removing layers.

Since the projector will be keystoned, any light leakage through the plexiglass bottom would be directed away from the screen. My current projector is mounted in the family room and we usually watch it as a TV with all of the lights on. So a plexiglass bottom would allow us to use the light in the projector to help light the room without shining light on the screen.

Just an idea.

Thanks, I really appreciate it.




Well, I'm a little surprised by your idea since everywhere I read, people try as hard as possible to remove light leaks. Also, plexiglass doesn't seem easy to curve. Although it would be nice to see inside, I'm not sure it would work very well. But if you think it would work, go ahead and try it. Don't let me ruin it for you...

If you haven't heard already, the S400DD bulb is no longer the size it used to be. It's not a kid anymore! They grow up so fast... I discovered this when I started thinking on how I would make the support for it. I said to myself: "Why not measure it, just in case..." Well, wouldn't you know it, it was too big. The center arc will not fit in the center of my box. And that's WITH the extra 0.5" I added to the original Haas plans.

So now I'm stuck. I don't know what to do. I guess I'll wait a little for Ushio's response on the issue.

If you have any idea, now is a good time.

I've seen two solutions to problems like this
1) Mount bulb at 45 degrees.
2) cut hole in side panel an place another peice of wood on the outside that the bulb is mounted to, so you gain the depth of the thickness of the side panel.

Personally I'd just angle the bulb. The S400DD is a universal so it will work fine in any position, just makes it a little harder to line up than a purely horizontal or vertical.

The problem with light leaks is simply that the light bounces everywhere and eventually onto the sceen, killing the contrast. I usually watch TV with the lights on anyways, so additional light directed away from the screen won't bother me. If I want a completely dark room I plan on simply adding a second layer of something. I am going to try a very thin piece of polyacrylic (more flexible, it's the stuff your fresnals are made of) for flexibility.

As far as bulb size, since you can't really angle it with a Haas style I would recommend the Venture ed28 pulse start bulb. It has a base to center length of only 5.75" or so. You will have to add about an inch for the mogul, giving a center of about 6.75" from the side.

The pulse starts are much brighter, however many people prefer the color temp of the Ushio.

This weendend was slow. I'm not progressing as fast as I would like. Issues keep poping where I need to adjust things and it's using a lot of my time. But like they say, better be slow than stupid.

I cut and installed my Lexan sheet. It was easier to cut than I expected. I used my jigsaw at its lowest speed so it wouldn't melt and it cut almost by itself.
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I cut my holes for my fans in the back panel.

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I designed and installed my fresnel frame and keystone mechanism. I'm using the gravity type.

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Look, it rotates !!!

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(ahhh!! the magic of pictures... I getting dizzy )

I think she's on to something ...

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Have you solved the light placement issue? I am looking for someone to copy off of. I haven't been able to wrap my head around a good solution for the problem yet. I suppose you could vertical mount it, which would require a protrusion from the bottom of the case? Make it look like a fin on a surf board maybe?

Or.... you can remake your front/back/top/bottom and dowels, and make the case wider by an inch or so? That would be a bit more graceful than having a big old wart on the side of the case...

No solution yet.

I can't add to the width of my box because it must fit between the beams in my ceiling. It's to its maximum size already.

Also, I can't use the vertical solution because I wouldn't be able to slide out my top (or bottom) panel.

I may use it uncentered until a better solution comes to me, but for now I'm waiting to see what Ushio as to say about this change. No decision yet...

Time for my weekly update!

I dont don't do much during the week but the hollydays are coming so maybe my progress will increase then.

Simple update: Added my power connector.

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I also cut my projection lens hole. And since I have to make mistakes, it's half an inch too big... :angry: Too bad, it will have to do.

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I also worked on my lamp support.

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With this support the lamp will NOT be centered. When a solution presents itself at my door in the middle of the night in a box with a red ribbon around it, I will change it.

This is my third attempt for a LCD PCB support tray. The first 2 were too high and the keystoned lens was hitting the PCB or the tray. Now I used the metal from the LCD housing that was left from the rip. It even has the screw holes for the PCB.

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I finally had the chance to use hot glue

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I found a way to install the power unit from the LCD.

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Not nice but it's the only way it fit. And much simpler than other ideas I was contemplating.

And the last item on this week's menu, the ballast installation:

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As posted in the help section, I just need to find out which pair of wires are the input and which are the output. Seeing that they both have brown and blue wires, I'm suspecting that confusion may be common.

So this is it for this week. I probably won't be adding anything here before next week, so I would like to wish everybody a very nice Christmas. With all the snow that we had on friday, it will surely be a white one.

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That's 41cm (16 inches) in less than 12 hours. We could almost see the grass before the storm.