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POB
G'Day Everyone,

Just setting out on my first foray into Home Theater. I'm from Dubbo in Western NSW, Australia. The current plan is for a vertical projector, built into a cabinet that will also house the HTPC and provide a bit of storage.

PARTS LIST (Ordered a few days ago - can't wait!)

LL Pro Triplet (Part No. PRT500)
LL Pro Field Fresnel - 220mm focal length (Part No. PRF220)
LL Pro Condenser Fresnel - 650mm focal length (Part No. PRF650)
LL 1022a 240V S400DD Ultimate Light Kit
LL UV1215 UV Filter 12" x 15"
LL FS1216 Front Surface Mirror 12.5" x 16"
[Edit] AOC LM-726 17" LCD Monitor.
[Edit] Have added the new reflector to my order. See 15 Dec 05 post on the "Lumenlab News and Product Updates" thread for specs.

Righto - next step is to draw up the plans for my cabinet. Piccies to follow, of course...
brutuz
G'Day POB,

I’m the POM living in Norway biggrin.gif Welcome to the forums. With all the details you have provided so far I have no doubt its going to be a great projector. If you have not seen the topic already, there is a big section on Australian Members In the Global section. One thing I see is that you will need some of that Lexan XL10 as a heat shield it also blocks UV rays as well.
POB
G'Day brutuz,

I was planning on using a piece of tempered glass (sourced locally) and the UV filter I previously described. Is the Lexan you mentioned considered to be a better option?

Cheers,

POB
brutuz
QUOTE (POB @ Nov 5 2005, 10:57 AM) *
G'Day brutuz,

I was planning on using a piece of tempered glass (sourced locally) and the UV filter I previously described. Is the Lexan you mentioned considered to be a better option?

Cheers,

POB


I cant remember where its posted but lexan allows more light to pass through. The actual technical reason might be different than what i have explained. You also have the advantage that you can cut the stuff yourself with a sharp knife. Lexan is 2.4mm thick. I got mine sent from the US cost me 15 USD. Ricoks has a link in his signature where they sell Lexan for the DIY community. http://store.ezdropsell.com/
POB
Thanks, brutuz!

Is the lexan very flexible? The link you posted describes it as being "easily cold formed to tight radii". Since my PJ will be vertical, I wonder if the lexan will "sag" and cause some kind of distortion in the light path. Other than this concern, the lexan sounds very much like the best option.
brutuz
QUOTE (POB @ Nov 5 2005, 11:50 AM) *
Thanks, brutuz!

Is the lexan very flexible? The link you posted describes it as being "easily cold formed to tight radii". Since my PJ will be vertical, I wonder if the lexan will "sag" and cause some kind of distortion in the light path. Other than this concern, the lexan sounds very much like the best option.


If you can imagine holding the lexan by both ends and bending it with slight pressure it would bend like - 1-2mm. Less than a plastic ruler. So its not that flexible. I guess you will frame your lexan & frensels? Anyone correct me if I am wrong, but I don’t think its that important if the lexan bends a bit it’s the 220 frensel that should not bend. I think some people sandwich the lexan or heat proof glass with the 220 frensel that would be about 4.4mm thick.

The reason I won’t frame mine is that i will cut it to 256mm x 380mm and the fact that my frensels are un split so they support each other. I guess your best option would be to frame them.

Also note I am using a high res panel so I need to have my frensels unsplit (both frensels behind the LCD)
POB
QUOTE (brutuz @ Nov 5 2005, 10:47 PM) *
I think some people sandwich the lexan or heat proof glass with the 220 frensel that would be about 4.4mm thick.

The reason I won’t frame mine is that i will cut it to 256mm x 380mm and the fact that my frensels are un split so they support each other. I guess your best option would be to frame them.

Also note I am using a high res panel so I need to have my frensels unsplit (both frensels behind the LCD)


I'm planning on framing everything (and stealing much of the technique you're using) tongue.gif

I would've thought that sandwiching the lexan and 220mmFL fresnel might overheat/damage the fresnel. Wouldn't the fresnel need an air gap for insulation/cooling? I was leaning toward keeping the lexan (or tempered glass) significantly closer to the light source, to provide a wider air gap to the 220mmFL fresnel.
brutuz
QUOTE (POB @ Nov 5 2005, 02:08 PM) *
I would've thought that sandwiching the lexan and 220mmFL fresnel might overheat/damage the fresnel. Wouldn't the fresnel need an air gap for insulation/cooling?


That’s a good point POB, i need to find that out too. I have just read people do that. Definitely worth checking again. I will have cooling, at the back i will have that crossflow Fan and at the front i will have a slot with a dust filer
brutuz
QUOTE (POB @ Nov 5 2005, 02:08 PM) *
I was leaning toward keeping the lexan (or tempered glass) significantly closer to the light source, to provide a wider air gap to the 220mmFL fresnel.


Yes you can do that allot of Plogs show that they put the heat shield closer to the lamp
POB
Righto - the hunt for a monitor is over.

Tonight I stripped an AOC LM-726. No worries. This one needs to go on the "Compatible Monitors" list.

I've attached a PDF file which is a copy of the spec sheet for this monitor.Click to view attachment
POB
Here's a picture of the finished strip.
POB
The yellow, green and white leads you see are some aligator clip leads I used to common-ground the LCD circuit board to the controller/power supply while I tested it after the strip.

You'll also notice the black felt pen marks I've made on the metal panel that the controller / power supply is mounted on. I figure I'll cut away that area, leaving a handy small panel to mount inside the projector.
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