The water soaking technique is still being worked on and has not yet been perfected but for those who wish to give it a shot anyway, PLEASE READ THIS THREAD FIRST!A lot of people have had success with this method and it is relatively risk free, but
for certain people it turned out to be a disaster!
My assumption that the technique would work for my panel is most likely what lead to the disaster. The water just did not soften the glue on my panel allowing it to separate easy. Attempting to pull it off I ripped off a piece of my polarizer.

DO NOT MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE I MADE! If your antiglare does not come off with relatively little effort, STOP! Try soaking it longer. If it still does not come off, post about it and consider another method of antiglare removal.

Obviously this is not a tutorial for the rag soaking technique, but I felt it should be posted so nobody reads about the rag soaking technique without knowing that it may not work, and that it should come off easy if its working. No one should be subjected to what I went through last night.

This should be pinned.

I'm totally replacing my polariser so I'm not really interested in the water-soak method, but just for laughs I placed the removed laminate in a bucket of water to see what happens. My LCD is a Magview 17".

After 3 hours submerged the layer between the LCD and the polariser pulled off easily. At that point in time the antiglare layer was beginning to get easy to pull off, but not easy enough to do it safely. I put it back in the water.

I forgot about it.

I went back about 20 hours later and there was nothing left of the polarising layer. The antiglare had turned into a substance resembling food wrap. The layer that the polarising substance was on turned clear. The polarising substance was washed away.

Just my experience....

I'm going to transform this thread into a "Don't's" thread so others can learn from our mistakes.

So we can take it from oztangs mistake, DO NOT forget about your lcd when soaking. Over soaking you can disolve your polarizer completely! Set an alarm if you must as a reminder. Do not leave for work and let leave your lcd soaking if the possibility exists that you could get back much later then you expect. Better to do it on a weekend or day off.

Here are some mistakes I made, not to make again.

After removing my polarizer, the substrate glue remained. I found the only thing to get it off was stripper. It required 4 or 5 coats, allowing it to soak in for 60 seconds before scraping back off. I used a razor blade to scrape it off. DO NOT USE A RAZOR BLADE! It left no visible scratches but after examing it carefully under a bright light in two or three spots I found some very small ones. A plastic scraper probably would have made the process a bit slower but it probably would have left absolutely no scratches.

When you are applying stripper to your lcd, polishing or doing anything of the sort, and you have it laying down on its face, you must be sure to do the following: be sure the surface it is laying on is smooth and not rough. A thin cotton cloth between the lcd and the surface should protect it. Second, secure the lcd to the table. Do NOT allow it freedom to slide over the surface its laying on. This can produce small scuffs on the lcd. If you can, tape the edges of the lcd to the surface on all sides, as I did. Two bad I didn't know this the first half of the stripping process.

This is an entirely new problem that has not come up with any of our other test panels. Wether the problem was that it was a full dunk, and not a ragging is unknown. Our extreme overdue test had a 44 hour rag soak. Zero damage.

Until we know exactly what happened here, people need to bear in mind this is not a timed technique. Different grades of PVA will give at different times. Some could give within an hour of placing the rag. It just seems that if the anti-glare won't come up easily after 12 hours something must be wrong.

We don't know how oztang's grade of PVA would have faired under a normal soak process. We need to be cautious.

Mark.