Panel: Samsung 510N
Method Used: Wet Paper Towel & tap water
Date of removal: 11-18-05


Some images after the antiglare removal (first image:Canon EOS 300D; ISO200; 1 sec exposure time; f5.0)


Image taked 30 cm from the screen


Detail of the previous image

LCD Model: Daewoo f227b
LCD Panel: Hyundai - HT17E12-200
Method:H20

cut paper towels to form 3 layers, placed on panel to 5 mm from edges , soaked thoroughly, laid plastic wrap on top to slow evaporation, checked once an hour, never had to reapply water, gave it a try at 7 hours with an xacto knife...corners wouldn't budge but tried one place in the middle of a side where I'd let the paper towel get to within about a mm of the edge...popped right up rest of ag peeled up like butter except for about 2-3 mm around the edges.... resolved to stop there (for now)


results:
have to rework my sled to fit the 17" panel but it appears to be remarkably transparent compared to before, will update when I get it in the pj....

Hyundai L72S 17"
1280x1024, 8ms, 700:1

paper towel soak with distilled water

removal date: 11/20-22

Turned out to be much more difficult than i would have liked. first soak was ~ 12 hours and ag film was starting to loosen a bit, went to bed to allow more soak time, paper towels dried out entirely overnight.
re-soaked for a further 16 hours, film finally started to give way, though had to proceed VERY slowly at times as it was still attached pretty firmly....sheet also kept ripping so had to remove in pieces and VERY carefully pry up edges over and over with a scalpal each time the sheet tore again. miserable experiance in all, i'd recommed > 24 hour soak on these monitors or the stipper method instead.

Good: picture sharper, didn't get the increase in brightness most ppl talk about, colors look a bit better too, though given the trouble i went through to get it off, i was hoping for more bang

Bad: fresnel grooves seen on screen, will have to adjust distances, small piece of polar was damaged in corner while trying to pry ag away from it, not a big deal as most use is widescreen media.

now the pics.

electronics masked


soaking


removed


ag getting what it deseves for the trouble it caused me.

Panel: CMV 520d
Method: Rag Soak
It worked!

1. I placed 2 of the heavy duty blue shop paper towels against the AG, then placed a wet regular cloth towel on top, then finally a layer of plastic food wrap to keep water from evaporating. I didn't use any tape, and didn't worry about water soaked paper towel draping over the edges of the panel.

2. Checked at 3 hours, corner came up nicely but decided to wait another hour. At 4 hours entire AG sheet came off in one piece.

3. Noticed strange milky residue on top of polarizer others have talked about. I tried many different things, water, alcohol, nail polish remover, mineral spirits, but nothing came close to removing it. Finally used a non-ammonia window cleaner and the film immediately disappeared. The window cleaner did the trick, it polished to perfect smudge-free finish.

Projector is now reassembled, but I'll patiently wait 24 hours
for things to dry out before firing up. I'll post result pics then.

See the before and after shots in my project gallery or plog. The results are just amazing in person. The AG removal procedure was definitely worth while.

Panel: Dell 1505FP
Method: Water soak

Panel front


Panel rear


It looks like this may have an ag front and rear. I removed the front without too much difficulty. I used cloth sponges cut to shape and it soaked for 7 hours before it peeled off without effort. While the rear is also "cloudy" I can clearly see lines or a grid in it so I dont think it is just a simple ag. I will leave it be.





Ag removed

Samsung ltn 1565 lcd tv.
lcd has been in use in the projector for almost two years now
removed november 25th

I used a rag method on the lcd. I set this up on my antistatic mat I had from radioshack I covered the screen with fairly wet rags. I covered the screen with the rags with the unused portion of the antistatic mat to prevent evaporation.
It took 10 hours before I was able to start a corner up, kept testing and waited for 12 hours before removal.
antiglare started to peel up easy for several inches then started to crack.
took resoaking and lots of restarts to remove the rest of the A/G.

as a finished product I was left with a few shards of the A/G left on the screen that I first thought were scraches. I will have to figure out a way to remove these as well. I don't know If I can use a soaking process twice. I was also left with some rainbow colored streaks that thankfully don't project.
I was suprised that this lcd stripped hard as I had also tried a junk lcd from an old IBM laptop that peeled right off.
The dificulty may have been from the amount of time this lcd has been in service.

projected results: WOW

short of the few small pieces of A/G left that show up in the picture. the picture is fantastic. allowing me to use settings that would otherwise wash out the picture.
the best way to describe it is that I have all the white and color levels that I would have if I was projecting onto a day-light highpower screen
but with awsome blacks.( I am using blackout for a screen.)

An added benifit was the black borders when watching widescreen movies. before they were dark gray and would lighten up if the movie got bright or there was a flash of light from an explosion ect. Not anymore, this provided a nice black mask that does not gray out with the bright scenes.
very impressed with this mod. I was debating on wether to buy a high power screen. looks like I don't need to go that route now.
Moose

AG Removal Method: Water rag
LCD: LG1530s
Result: partial failure.

I have used the described method, waited 5 hours and the AG wouldnt budge. waited 4 more hours, lifted a small part in the corner very slowly. The AG came out in 1 piece, BUT 3 or 4 very tiny bits of the polar came out stuck to the AG! :angry:.
I can`t believe it! failed in the very last moment, damn it... It looks like the water made it through the polar too. Of course THEY SHOW as white scratches in the projected image :angry:
Either way, I dont have the panel any longer (plz dont ask why ) Since it has AG on both sides, Im not going to buy the same one, Im going for a Samsung or a Philips this time.

Dont be discouraged, this is a good stripping method, but as Mark said "it have and can go wrong". Good luck.

:angry:

Method: Water rag
LCD: Samsung Syncmaster 510N 15"
Result: Failure


Soaked for approx 48 due to been too busy work deadlines. Removed paper towels, they stayed wet from the beginning because I put plastic wrap on top of them, so there was no need to re wet every couple of hours.

First thought there was no AG on the LCD, then I eventually hook the edge with my exacto. It was still very stiff, pulled lightly with small pliers but tore. Tried to get a piece up again but no luck.

How does the water actually permiate to the "glue" layer if the AG is what seems to be plastic?

What now?

Well, thought I'd try one more time, if it didn't work then I would just stay with the AG.

1st soak was +-48hrs, no luck then another 24 and AG started to lift a little easier than before. From other posts the AG was very thin and flexible. This one's about 1-1.5 paper sheet in thickness and very firm. Maybe a longer soak would have made it more flexible. I double and triple checked if I was maybe pulling up more than the AG but the blade only picked up the one layer.

Took about 20-30mins to remove, as the "glue" was still very sticky. Because of the rigidity(??) of the film and the stickiness of the glue, I ended up cutting the film which made removal a lot easier as their was less surface area to pull up.

Gonna let it dry till 2moro night and will then test to see if it actuallt still works.

Thanks again to Mark and Simul8r.

Edge lifted up.

Lights shining on bare panel

Light shining on AG

Light shining on both. Quite a difference

AG remains

According to Simul8r and Mark, I may have pulled up everything. Will test tonight and let you guys know.

Later that evening......

Tested, I pulled up everything.

I had a close look at the pieces and for the life of me I cannot see the layer of AG, must be super thin. Left a piece lying in a cup of water for testing later.

LCD: Samsung 712N 17"
Method: Water rag
December 21, 2005

I soaked the panel for about 12 hours initially. Some chunks came off, so i soaked the rest for a little longer and most of that came off with relative ease, some smaller pieces took even more soaking but eventually came off. I put it all back into my projector and noticed an increase in contrast and color. Maybe not as much as others have claimed with theirs, but still a pretty good increase.

I did a PSOne LCD last night with the rag soak method

LCD Panel: Samsung 510n 15'
Method: Water Soak
Result: SUCCESS

Sorry I have no pictures. My camera is broke.

I removed my LCD from the projector and set it up on my son's play table. I covered the table with a very soft blanket. I then taped the FCC's with masking tape. I then soaked 3 cloth diapers in distilled water. I placed the saturated diapers one at a time onto the lcd. I covered the diapers with plastic wrap. I let the diapers sit for approx. 9 hours. I removed the diapers. To my delight the AG peeled off easily in one piece.

I let the LCD dry for 24 hours.

The Good: My results were fantastic! Brightness and Contrast has improved greatly. Colors are vibrant. Blacks and Whites are much better. I will post visuals of my final image soon. I still need to do some tweaking.

The Bad: None to speak of.

As side note: I believe that my AG removal was so successful because I used cloth diapers. When saturated they are very heavy and I believe this extra weight may have helped saturate and loosen the AG adhesive.

Good luck to all who are trying this! Thanks to all who pioneered this very useful mod!

Bilb07733

1) CMV-520D 15 inch LCD
2) The usual specs...450/1 Contrast etc...
3) Tried rag soaking and it didnt work. 24 hours soak was virtually no help. So I moved to a marine based stripper. Roughed the AG layer with 220C sandpaper and did a quick water soak to buffer the methyline chloride. Then applied stripper in about 5 coats. Whole process was cleaned with denatured alcohol after wards. Total strip time 45 minutes.
4) No Film replacement
5) Just before Christmas!
6) No Ill findings so to speak. It's much more clear. Looks like a thinly tinted pair of sunglasses. Found out that the edges of this unit are sealed with an epoxy coating which cruches while stripping. Very disconcerting.

You can find pictures of the strip here...

Samsung 15" Syncmaster 570S LCD Monitor
Water-soak Method - seven hours
Sucessful!

I stripped this monitor easily... removing the backlight to reveal the monitor panel. Decided for safety to put the monitor panel back in the backlight and temporarily screw in the ffc's to secure them while I was working.

I used two paper towels, trimmed and overlapping, right up to edges of panel. Dribbled tap water to soak. The towels expanded as they got wet so I was careful to scoot the edges back from the ffc's as I continued to add water.

Put plastic wrap over towels and aluminum foil over the plastic wrap (to insure the towels would not dry out). Went to bed. :-)

Seven hours later, I removed the foil, plastic wrap and wet paper towels. I dried off the screen with a dry paper towel. Then, with a box cutter blade, I carefully lifted the corner of anti-glare. It wasn't too difficult. Once I started lifting, I grabbed it with my fingers and very slowly peeled it off without any difficulty. There was no apparent residue and the glass below was mirror clean!

I highly recommend this method on this monitor!

LG L1530S 15" monitor
paper towel with distilled water soak

masked off and taped the bare lcd then dunked some paper towels in distilled water, rung them out and placed them on lcd. After a few hours i reapplied water with a foam brush. After about 8 hours i took the towels off and with a plastic scraper lifted a corner and the ag came off in one piece with almost no resistance.




still waiting for my box to be built so now pictures of final result.

LCD: Samsung LTN-1565 LCD-TV
METHOD: Paper Towel Water Soak (Tap Water)
DATE: Jan 7, 2006
SUCCESS: Antiglare + Rear TAC removed with No effort in 6 Hours (3 hours of soak on each side)


Decided to remove antiglare before i finished up my projector, Panel was used in a Haas style projector for about 10h and then I decided to rebuild my projector to a Vertical projector A La Punisher.

Panel was siliconed into its metal frame so i had to spend some time removing the panel.. used an exacto to cut the silicone and ended up putting a few light scratches on the non-antiglare side.

Layed out LCD on a dry towel
Cut paper towel to size of panel and soaked then wringed out towels and layed them across LCD about 3 layers thick.
Covered with plastic wrap and left to sit 3 hours.

At 3 hours i tried a corner and it came up extremely easy.. so i decided to go for it and it all came off with little effort in 1 peice!!! YAY!!!

Projector is about 90% done so i wont know how well the panel works for about another week. I'll edit this post and add some pics later on if i can.

BUMPED....I've noticed members posting their A/G removals and as a request if they could post their LCD model's and methods here as a general reference for others in search of their models and who they can contact for help. Please read the first page of this thread for what information is requested and post any pics of your actual removal or comparison's. And please no discussions just results. Moderators will be removing them.
Many, many thanks.
sim

1) Sony SDM-M51 15"
2) 1024x768 300:1 CR, 50ms response
3) Water soak 16 hours.
4)
5)March 14,2006
6)

David.

Removed anti-glare and rear TAC. Came off easily. Will edit after testing.

Results: Well it still works, that is a plus. Color is a little better and overall a little brighter. Not much wow though.

1. Mitac 15" TFT, old (1999?)
2. XGA, 350:1, 25 ms
3. Rag soaking
5. March 20th 1600, March 20th 2100
6. None so far.


3 hour soak using distilled water from our condensing thumbledrier reservoir, wet rag under cling foil. The antiglare was a solid sheet of plastic. It could be lifted with a finger nail, and came straight off without leaving any residue. No particulare measures taken against water drips onto edges, FFCs etc.

Light somewhat improved, focus quite improved, colors massively improved. Easy fix, great yield!

Diamond Digital aka ( Mitsubishi )

TFT 17"
Model DV 177

DVI input + VGA

1280 x 1024

16.2 mill colours

8 mS

750 : 1 contrast ratio

water Soak method 2hrs with kitchen towels double layered wet once

peeled ag layer in one clean piece

no need for residue cleanup at all

ViewMaster aka Copal LCD panel

17"
1280 x 1024

20 mS

VGA input

One hour soak again with paper kitchen towels,, water splashed on

came up like cling wrap

this one was to becoem my PC Monitor,, just to see how it works as a normal monitor,, and I am very impressed,, permenent usage now...

15" Dell 1504FP

Rag soak method with cold water out of the water bottle dispenser at my work. **SUCCESSFUL**

Soaked with a wet paper towel (the blue shop ones from Home Depot) and placed a scrap piece of DiBond on top of it to both weigh it down and prevent evaporation. Dibond is a type of material used for all kinds of stuff that is a sheet of plastic with aluminum adhered to both sides of it. It comes in 1/8"x4'x8' sheets. It didn't help that I used DiBond specifically, just that it was heavy enough to apply some weight to the paper towels and prevent evaporation.

I peeled up the corners with a sharp, brand-new razor blade.

Was able to peel each side after about 2 hours of soaking.

Can't comment on an improvement because I just bought the monitor last night and havn't even built the projector yet.

It boggles my mind how placing water on a piece of plastic helps loosen the bond of the glue but all I know is that IT WORKS. It was much much easier to peel after having soaked it. Before it would just rip.

It came up in pieces, like 2 or 3 on each side but it was definitely helped along by the soaking and I am sure they would have come off in one piece had I waited a little longer... but I was impatient.

Another successful AG strip

LCD - 15" CMV Polyview P518A (550:1 contrast ratio )

Method - Paper towl soak with room temperature tap water. I used come plastic food wrap and some good ol scotch tape to make sure the electrical components didn't get wet. (make sure not to apply tape directly to your FFC connectors, you can tear them while removing the tape)

Time - About 10 hours, kept it pretty damp on a regular basis. It all came off in one clean peel (used an exacto knife to peel it up). Just like pullin a sticker off of glass, worked like a charm.

Success!

1) Samsung SyncMaster 710N 17 inch (I believe this model has been discontinued.)
2) Panel: Type a-si TFT/TN; Pixel Pitch (mm) 0.264; Brightness 300 cd/m2; Contrast Ratio 600:1; Response Time (ms) 12; Aspect Ratio 4:3
3) Water soak
4) Only antiglare removed so far.
5) April 15, 2006

Roughly 12 hour soak with single piece of toweling and a toilet paper reservoir in the center. Covered with plastic to reduce evaporation. Approximately 60 degrees F. Analytical grade water used (18 mega ohm).

Started corner of antiglare with an X-Acto knife while viewing with a jeweler's loupe.

Peeled off very easily. Less force than pulling a piece of Scotch tape. There was some mild ripping sound as I peeled it.

I never had to add more water.

Was gonna take a video but it came off soooo easily I forgot. DOH!!!

See my plog for better pics.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

You guys ROCK for pioneering this!

1) Samsung 730BF
2) 1280x1024, c/r 600:1.
3) Water
4) n/a
5) April 20,2006

These later Samsung monitors have been a problem with antiglare removel judging by comments on this forum so I approached this with lots of trepidation.

Fully intended to leave this for about 12 hours to soak but thought I would test it after 3 hours. Used a jewellers eyeglass and a scalpel to gently lift the corner, being sure it was the antiglare and not the polarizer I was lifting and it peeled with far less force than cellotape off glass. It left some residual glue that easily cleaned off with water. I can't believe how easy this was in the end.

Elken was right, only a few hours water soaking are needed. The less time spent soaking the better in my opinion, the thought of too much soaking affecting the polarizer is worrysome.

Samsung 512N - 15" LCD
Wet Paper Towels
Removed Saturday May 27th, 2006

I put the panel on a towel and trimmed down 2 paper towels so they fit.

Placing one paper towel at a time, I soaked them evenly by using a syringe. I used distilled water.

I didn't use anything to cover my FCCs or Circuit boards but the paper towels went right to the edge of the LCD and no water dripped down because I soaked the paper towels carefully.

Three hours later I peeled a corner off using an exacto knife (was hard to get under it, had to exert some force).

Wasn't sure if I got the polarizer as well (looked a little dark) but upon peeling the corner up a bit more, I saw another layer underneath with the corner a little scuffed up (polarizer).

The antiglare peeled off nicely and in one piece, overall very easy.

NOTE: I added more water to the paper towels every half an hour. By the time I finished peeling off the antiglare water had gone through the power towels, through the LCD panel, through the towel, and onto the desk where it was sitting.







Question: Peeling off the antiglare left some streaks as seen in the bottom left hand corner in the picture above. How would I go about cleaning these off?

I haven't tried the LCD since peeling off the AG but will once I connect all the input boards inside my projector. Anyone know where I can find out how to connect everything?

Although I haven't used this panel inside a projector yet I did buy it from another member here who might have used it previously.

Samsung 17” 740N A/G on both sides
2 hour water soak on each side. Very easy to remove.

Actually it's a panel from Samsung 152N (I got 2 of those). So far the easiest lcd to dissassemble if you ask me.

Dell E153Fpb- made by BenQ

Rag Soak method

July 29, 2006


Got my monitor in the mail today and had it stripped in about 45 minutes. I was planning on waiting for a while before trying the AG removal, but the thing stripped so easily I was feeling brave.

Used the same rag soak method that seems to be favored here.

St the LCD AG side up on a dry towel, covered the AG with some paper towels, and used a spray bottle to get them good and wet. I didn't have distilled water, so I just used tap water filtered by my water dispenser on the fridge.

Let it sit for 2 hours, and the tension was getting to me so I tried it out. Used a small metal pick to lift the corner, and the whole AG peeled right up in one piece with hardly any effort.

It did leave quite a bit of the residue, but it cleaned up nicely with some glass cleaner.

I am still amazed at how easily the whole strip/AG removal went. I am starting to think this crazy projector thing might actually work!

I didn't think to take a before pic, but here is the after pic:

Panel: HP L1506
Method: Rag Soak
Results: Took off whole polarizer
Details and pics here
Any advice on good polarizers appreciated (polarization.com is out of big sheets of good film)

1) LCD brand name & Size
Samsung 730B 17"
2) Specifications
1280 x 1024 resolution
600 - 1 contrast ratio
0.264mm pitch
8ms response time
3) Method of antiglare removal to include sanding if done &/or type of polisher
Stripper
4) Type of polarized film used, name, model, part number (if total replacment was done)
N/A
5) Date of removal, replacement
08/12/06
6) Date of any ill findings after removal, replacement (while Editing)
Scratched the polarizer.

Getting the correct amount of sanding prior to applying the stripper is VERY important. If you don't sand enough you're in for a long, painful strip.

1) 17" Samsung 740B
2) 8ms, 1280x1024, (great speed with great colors) (btw i looked at the 740BF 2ms, and i felt the colors were terrible also heard AG removal is hard)
3) Rag Removal using warm/hot tap water and Bounty paper towels
5) 8/13/2006 both sides had AG and both sides were removed on same day.

I used ellen2004's revised techniques ( http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13182 ) and also covered the panel with some ziplock pastic bags so I would not have to replace the water so often. I poured the warm tap water onto the center and allowed it to soak outwards. Then I smoothed out all the air bubbles. I checked it every 30mins and poured more water onto dry spots. After 4 hours I soaked up excess water on the panel so glue would not be left behind while I pulled up the AG. I used a razor blade to lift up the corner, (making sure its just the AG). The AG peeled off very easy, it was like pulling a wet sheet of paper off glass. I then scrubbed out any excess glue spots with tissue soaked in a little hot water. This was done by rubbing it from center to the sides and pushing the glue off the edge. I cleaned up and repeated to the other side.
I highly recommend AG removal on this monitor it was very simple just requires patience.

Eizo Flexscan L365 15"
38 cm (15 inch), TFT color LCD panel
0.297 mm dot pitch, Anti-Glare Hard Coating

Water Soak with Hot Tap water & Paper Kitchen towel

Strip done: 15/08/06

Easy strip, 4 hour soak time. Left some PVA residue behind but this was easily removed by wiping with hot water.

1) Synaps (Walmart) 15.4" Widescreen LCD
2) 1280x800 native widescreen resolution, can do 1280x720 also for 720pHD
3) Used the Water Method
4) No polorized film removed
5) A/G Removal 9/14/2006
6) none so far, projector yet to be built

1) Sharp LQ9P021
2) Sharp bare LCD module, digital RGB input, 640x480 color, see-though (no backlight or otherwise on the other side since this was from an overhead projector data display thingy) 8.4in?
3) Warm water paper towel soak
4) N/A
5) 9/15/06 AG removed
6) No current plans of using for projector, looks perfectly fine to me. Untested as the item it was contained withing did not work properly (control electronics seem to be dead)

I am building a classic 15" projector, with possibly some mods. Display will be Dell 1504FP. I just happened to get a malfunctioning overhead projector data display with a Sharp LCD in it, and figured I'd try AG removal on it before I do on the real thing once it arrives.

Cut a paper towel to size, soaked in warm water, placed on the LCD and smoothed out any bubbles. Left on for some hours (not timed, I guess 2-3). No extra weight on it besides paper towel. AG revoved extremely easily (no resistance at all, it looked like just water was holding it), except the last 2cm since the paper towel had shifted on that spot and it hadn't been soaked properly. Redid paper towel on that spot for 1hr, which loosened it enough to pull apart with some force. Polarizer seems to be intact. No extra glue left on it.

The screen seems really nice for use on a simple cheap projector for, say, data display. Drive electronics are messed up though, although I might try to make some circuit to drive it. Interface is old-style, basic R+G+B digital 3bit/channel, plus sync and dotclock.

Once my 1504FP arrives, I will do the same to it.

Samsung 712n
1280x1024@60hz
12ms
600:1 contrast
removed on 9/16/06

Removed via paper towels/water method.

Let it air dry for about 20 hours.

Soaked for 12 hours and came off in one piece extremely easily. Didn't mask off anything, but did made sure the towels weren't touching any of the FFCs. After wetting the towels i pressed out all the air bubbles, and put 4 copies of those OEM windows 98 packages in plastic wrap on top of the wet towels to give it a little bit of pressure. After 12 hours i removed the 98 packages to see how things looked. The water was still there and little to no evaporation took place (good). Tried an edge with an exacto, and it came up perfectly, no tears or real resistance.

I was worried about doing this because the monitor has been in use for over 2 years now (maybe half a year in the projector). So i was worried the thing would be caked on permanently. But apparently not.

The contast has very noticeably improved, brightness a tad, but not dramatically. Brightness seemed very good before though, but any improvement in brightness is a good thing.

very happy with the results and ease of everything. thanks to the pioneers of this!

1) Dell 1504FP, 15"
2) 15" 1024x768 20ms LCD: Sharp LQ150X1LW71
3) Warm water paper towel soak
4) No replacement
5) 9/22/06 AG removed
6) Very small line left during removal on polarizer at a point where I stopped. Almost invisible, most likely will not affect projection. Will not touch unless it causes a problem, as I want to keep the polarizer pristine clean. It is most likely glue residue.



I placed the LCD on a towel, cut a paper towel to size, placed it on top, and dripped warm water over it until it was almost completely soaked with as few bubbles as possible. I placed a plastic piece (from the backlight assembly BTW) on top to keep moisture in. Then I put a couple books on top and let it sit for about one hour.

Every 30 minutes or so I checked on it. Water seemed to be going away, either soaking into the AG, or the towel, or evaporating, so I replaced it each time.

At one hour, the corner was peelable with some force, so I let it sit for another hour.

At two hours the AG came out in one piece with no problems whatsoever. A very faint line was left on the polarizer at one point where I stopped (probably glue remains), although I stopped at other spots with no remains (probably has to do with the angle of removal). I can't get it on camera, as it is really faint. Polarizer is perfectly clean now except for that line.

Click on any image to view full size.

Result after removal:


Paper towel and plastic used for soaking (note: plastic is from backligh assembly):


Paper towels used:


Parts leftover after stripping:


Back of the monitor showing info:

I did a strip using the water method on a LG 17" LCD it is the L1752TX which they call a 1400 to 1 contrast which a trick is done by dimming the backlight.

The LCD strips from the frame well and has only FFC on the bottom not the side and the real contrast is 700 to one and it looks to have about a 5% transmission.

I used 3 paper towels and distilled water and a razor and a 10x loupe to find the edge of the anti glare.
I let it soak for 4 hours and it came off in one piece.

There was some glue still on the LCD that I cleaned up by re applying the wet paper towels for a five minuets and then used a wet paper towel to wet buff the glue off. This took only light pressure after the LCD re soaked.
If it dries the glue will stop coming off. The polarizer was perfect.

I like this LCD it is easy to strip has good color is a 700 contrast and the a/g comes off well. I am using it with a 1200 watt lamp and condenser system.


Some pictures.

Like paper towels. They get larger when wet ,I trimed them to keep the water from geting all over the FFC's

Click to view attachment


Just a light pull and it came off. Try to go even and not stopp so as not to make any lines.

Click to view attachment

After some clean up ,dont let it dry or the stuff wont come off.

Click to view attachment

I'm waching Harry Potter tonight( Wife and kids) and the color is a lot better. Be a man and risk that $180 LCD

Here is a link to my post:

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=15110&hl=

Sysonic 8.4" 600x800, 300:1 contrast, 25ms response, 15pin VGAinput

Rag Soak - 2.5hrs
Started corner, removed easily.

ViewEra V152, 15”

Panel Type Anit-glare type active TFT-LCD
Screen Size 15” diagonal
Pixel Pitch 0.297 (W) x 0.297 (H) mm
Brightness Typical: 300 cd/m2
Contrast Ratio Typical: 450:1
Response Time Typical: 16 ms
Viewing Angle(H / V) Typical: 140° / 120°
Resolution 1024 (W) x 768 (H)
Display Color 16.7 M
Video Input Analog: 15-pin, D-sub connector x 1
(Power Supply)Input voltage 100-240V /60-50Hz
(Power Supply)Output rating 12V DC, 3.0A
Power Consumption 30 watts (max.), 5 watts (standby)
Audio: No
Frequency Horizontal: 30-60KHz; Vertical: 55-75Hz
Weight N.W.: 7.7 lbs (3.5 Kgs) / G.W.: 11.0 lbs (5.0 Kgs)

Warm Water Rag Method, 3 hours soak with paper towels covered with cellophane so not to evaporate quickly. In the process, I constantly recharged the water every 30 minutes until I was able to lift the antiglare. The film did not slide off easily but with little effort like removing adhesive tape.

Removed antiglare April 6, 2006.


In addition to removing the antiglare in front of the panel, I also pulled 2 pieces of film off the rear of the panel (rag method). The picture with the three films will show the 2 I pulled from the rear. The top film is the antiglare the bottom 2 are what came off the back side (mirrored like). The one on the left had a dichroic film about it while the one on the right was like a very thin sheet of aluminum film but was see thru plus it polarized when I twisted it.

Neovo F-417 17" with Hard coating antiglare

Water soaked

I preped the LCD as usual with paper towels (toilet paper to be exact) we ran out of paper towels. I applied one layer of toilete paper folded in two to cover the LCD not going too close to the edges.

I wet the paper with some warm water. With a kitchen sponge I flattened the paper to get the air bubles out and pulled the paper closer to the edges.

I layed 3 more layers of folded toilet paper and applied more water. I let it sit for about 45 minutes and with a sharp edge tried lifting the AG - it did but not too easy.

I preped some more warm water and mixed in it about 1/3 acetone.

Applied this mixture to the already wet paper.

I let is sit for about 3 hours, and the peel was a breeze. I really think acetone helped ...)

Moderator EDIT Acetone.....Thanks kunteper for the post. Yes, it seems those who are experimenting with 1:3 parts acetone and water (perhaps warm water) are winning in the antiglare war.

Edit:
- corrected acetone spelling
- Removal done 24/10/2006

BUMPED....PLEASE SEE MY FIRST POST IN THE FIRST PAGE OF THIS THREAD. The 1 part ACETONE to 3 parts WATER seems to be working but we still need more feedback from those who have succeeded in this.
sim.........

Word of caution with acetone !

When using acetone in the water dont rush the peel.

As decribed above, I laid the paper down, wet it, waited a while and than peeled part of the AG. But I couldn't go all the way so I stopped (the AG filter got torn so part of the polar was exposed). I laid the paper down again and waited for couple of hours. (What I didnt realise was that some of the paper was over the polar.) After couple of hours I went at it again and could remove the AG filter completely but the damage was done. Now I have discoloration on the polar.

I dont think it effects the image quality but you never know, some other polar might be more affected by the acetone than mine ...

So if you stop in the middle of a peel and need to wait make sure you dont get any acetone on the naked polar


for color to work you need to finish the first color tag with [/color] !!!

1) Primeview 5"
2) 960x240
3) Warm water paper towel soak
4) No replacement
5) AG removed at 03/11/06

I placed the LCD on a towel
I cut 3 paper towels same size as the actvie area
Placed them to a warm water, then to the separeted area on the lcd panel
Same like others I placed a plastic piece on top
Without any pressure I wait two hours then I rewatered the towels with warm water and wait another hour
The AG came out in one peace, without problem.
The polarizer is clean, so everything is OK!
I assembled back to my pj after half an hour, because I was sure that the separation was water resistant.

results:
First of all, the panel still works, huhhh!

Good: Wow!! Colour /saturation/ and contrast increased extremly!
Bad: nothing!!

This was a really easy mod, I didn't feel the panel in danger at the whole proccess.
I only have picture which have been made with phone, so I don't attach them, but plus one for the
water rag method and thanks for everybody!

"Can't mod enough"