all the lumenlab gear sat in the corner for about a year waiting on the zoom lens issue being resolved which i bought when it first came on sale.
a few months ago i bought a standard lens and started a temporary build.
the e ballast and ushio s400dd seemed fine for around 12 hours giving of a bright white light, after that the light turned green, after around 24hrs of tweeking time the only way the bulb would strike was if you screwed i t out and put it back in,now even that wont work and the lamp only flickers but wont light. the e ballast is also cool to touch so i dont know for sure if its the bulb or ballast, its not worth all the bother sending it back for testing as i live in scotland. i was thinking of just going the coil and core route so if anyone could be good enough to tell me what to look for when matching up ballast and bulb, there seems to be metal halide sodium m/h and mercury are any or all usable for our purpose.
any help appreciated.
Full Version: LL light kit on blink
Are you a girl? Or is that just a nickname?
Anyways, green means its not reaching its full operating temperature, and theirs either a problem with the bulb or ballast.
I decided to completely ditch the ushio and eballast and went with the venture and coil ballast. Still waiting for my coil ballast to arrive in the mail. I'd reccomend you do the same. Give me a second I'll dig up the part numbers...
Here we are. Stole this from sawtooths plog (thanks sawtooth!)
Buy these at www.hidirect.com
bulb - Part # 40124 Venture 400w ED28 = $35.48
mogul - E39 = $4.50
ballast - V90D7612 = $66.85
Free shipping! total = $106.83
Anyways, green means its not reaching its full operating temperature, and theirs either a problem with the bulb or ballast.
I decided to completely ditch the ushio and eballast and went with the venture and coil ballast. Still waiting for my coil ballast to arrive in the mail. I'd reccomend you do the same. Give me a second I'll dig up the part numbers...
Here we are. Stole this from sawtooths plog (thanks sawtooth!)
Buy these at www.hidirect.com
bulb - Part # 40124 Venture 400w ED28 = $35.48
mogul - E39 = $4.50
ballast - V90D7612 = $66.85
Free shipping! total = $106.83
QUOTE (Mikau @ Oct 19 2005, 11:14 PM)
Are you a girl? Or is that just a nickname?
Anyways, green means its not reaching its full operating temperature, and theirs either a problem with the bulb or ballast.
I decided to completely ditch the ushio and eballast and went with the venture and coil ballast. Still waiting for my coil ballast to arrive in the mail. I'd reccomend you do the same. Give me a second I'll dig up the part numbers...
Here we are. Stole this from sawtooths plog (thanks sawtooth!)
Buy these at www.hidirect.com
bulb - Part # 40124 Venture 400w ED28 = $35.48
mogul - E39 = $4.50
ballast - V90D7612 = $66.85
Free shipping! total = $106.83
Anyways, green means its not reaching its full operating temperature, and theirs either a problem with the bulb or ballast.
I decided to completely ditch the ushio and eballast and went with the venture and coil ballast. Still waiting for my coil ballast to arrive in the mail. I'd reccomend you do the same. Give me a second I'll dig up the part numbers...
Here we are. Stole this from sawtooths plog (thanks sawtooth!)
Buy these at www.hidirect.com
bulb - Part # 40124 Venture 400w ED28 = $35.48
mogul - E39 = $4.50
ballast - V90D7612 = $66.85
Free shipping! total = $106.83
Mikau
Why did you ditch the ushio & eballast?
I tried my eballast last night and my ushio never turned on. It was trying. I even seen a few flicker in the bulb ,but it never came on. I could hear it click.
Now I'm not sure which or what is wrong. There's one thing when I received my eballast I flip it over and I heard rattling sound inside. There might be broken parts. Maybe it's partially working, I don't know... ??? is that possible?
I think I'll return it.
Thanks
AKA
A.K.A: Mikau was having some brightness issues, and was unhappy with the light output of his Ushio setup. As to the Veture being "much better" -- keep in mind that he has not received his coil 'n core ballast, as per his own message, so he really does not have a standard of reference, other than people telling him that it might be better. (I think the money on a new light setup would have been better spent on a good luxmeter, but that's my opinion.)
I did have a coil 'n core setup, with an M59 magnetic ballast, and a 4000k lamp. I switched to the LumenLab light kit. When the light kit arrived, I did a side-by-side burn of both lamps.
The Ushio was whiter. Though the 4000k lamp was definitely good, and put to shame the other lighting in my workspace, the Ushio made even that look just a touch yellow. I don't think that it would be noticable at all without a side-by-side comparison. As to brightness, both were extremely bright, and I had to stand well away even to be able to glance in the general direction to get a comparison. (More than 40 feet / 12m)
Before you replace the setup, keep in mind that many perfectly functioning eballasts are returned. Double and triple check things before you go spending the money on a replacement.
1. Check that the mogul base is clear of debris. Sometimes there's ceramic residue in the mogul base, which means that the ballast has to arc that gap before it even gets to the lamp. Also check the base of the lamp.
2. Make sure that the lamp is screwed in all the way. (Really basic, but it's been a cause of reported failure before.
3. Check your wiring. Really. Make sure that all the wiring is secure both mechanically and electrically.
4. Don't just assume that things are okay. Really go back and check them. Take the wiring apart and reconnect it. Take the lamp out of the mogul and make sure that the socket and threads are clear.
If you must replace items...
The lamp is the cheaper. The eballast can drive regular (ANSI M59) Metal Halide lamps. This has been done, and I daresay will be done again. You can try a different lamp, and see if the ballast drives it. You could try an HPS lamp (ANSI S51) as well, though this will not work as a projector lamp. This would simply be to check if the ballast is working driving a similar lamp load as the S400DD. You could also try similar HPS conversion lamps, which you may be able to source locally at an industrial lighting place, rather than having them shipped overseas.
This will tell you what's failed. At this point, you mush choose. You can keep the S400DD, which has excellent colour specifications, or go to a 400W MH lamp, such as the Venture, which has a greater specified initial lumens figure. Note that most of these lamps will be physically larger than the S400DD. If you can find one ina T15 form factor, that would be ideal.
If you choose to stick with the S400DD, then you need a 400W HPS ballast. (ANSI S51) If you choose to go with a different style Metal Halide lamp, then you need a matching ballast. (ANSI M59 typical, but not always!) Your lighting supplier can make that recommendation.
Of course, I don't know where in Scotland you'll find these things, but the links in Mikau's post are ccertainly not going to save you on shipping.
I got the green sputtering and not restriking once. I backed out my lamp, and put it back in, and it's been fine since. (This was just after moving it from the garage at the office to home.)
On the "Good news" front, it looks like Brain's just about go the pro lenses sussed.
I did have a coil 'n core setup, with an M59 magnetic ballast, and a 4000k lamp. I switched to the LumenLab light kit. When the light kit arrived, I did a side-by-side burn of both lamps.
The Ushio was whiter. Though the 4000k lamp was definitely good, and put to shame the other lighting in my workspace, the Ushio made even that look just a touch yellow. I don't think that it would be noticable at all without a side-by-side comparison. As to brightness, both were extremely bright, and I had to stand well away even to be able to glance in the general direction to get a comparison. (More than 40 feet / 12m)
Before you replace the setup, keep in mind that many perfectly functioning eballasts are returned. Double and triple check things before you go spending the money on a replacement.
1. Check that the mogul base is clear of debris. Sometimes there's ceramic residue in the mogul base, which means that the ballast has to arc that gap before it even gets to the lamp. Also check the base of the lamp.
2. Make sure that the lamp is screwed in all the way. (Really basic, but it's been a cause of reported failure before.
3. Check your wiring. Really. Make sure that all the wiring is secure both mechanically and electrically.
4. Don't just assume that things are okay. Really go back and check them. Take the wiring apart and reconnect it. Take the lamp out of the mogul and make sure that the socket and threads are clear.
If you must replace items...
The lamp is the cheaper. The eballast can drive regular (ANSI M59) Metal Halide lamps. This has been done, and I daresay will be done again. You can try a different lamp, and see if the ballast drives it. You could try an HPS lamp (ANSI S51) as well, though this will not work as a projector lamp. This would simply be to check if the ballast is working driving a similar lamp load as the S400DD. You could also try similar HPS conversion lamps, which you may be able to source locally at an industrial lighting place, rather than having them shipped overseas.
This will tell you what's failed. At this point, you mush choose. You can keep the S400DD, which has excellent colour specifications, or go to a 400W MH lamp, such as the Venture, which has a greater specified initial lumens figure. Note that most of these lamps will be physically larger than the S400DD. If you can find one ina T15 form factor, that would be ideal.
If you choose to stick with the S400DD, then you need a 400W HPS ballast. (ANSI S51) If you choose to go with a different style Metal Halide lamp, then you need a matching ballast. (ANSI M59 typical, but not always!) Your lighting supplier can make that recommendation.
Of course, I don't know where in Scotland you'll find these things, but the links in Mikau's post are ccertainly not going to save you on shipping.
I got the green sputtering and not restriking once. I backed out my lamp, and put it back in, and it's been fine since. (This was just after moving it from the garage at the office to home.)
On the "Good news" front, it looks like Brain's just about go the pro lenses sussed.
QUOTE (SupraGuy @ Oct 20 2005, 03:38 PM)
A.K.A: Mikau was having some brightness issues, and was unhappy with the light output of his Ushio setup. As to the Veture being "much better" -- keep in mind that he has not received his coil 'n core ballast, as per his own message, so he really does not have a standard of reference, other than people telling him that it might be better. (I think the money on a new light setup would have been better spent on a good luxmeter, but that's my opinion.)
I did have a coil 'n core setup, with an M59 magnetic ballast, and a 4000k lamp. I switched to the LumenLab light kit. When the light kit arrived, I did a side-by-side burn of both lamps.
The Ushio was whiter. Though the 4000k lamp was definitely good, and put to shame the other lighting in my workspace, the Ushio made even that look just a touch yellow. I don't think that it would be noticable at all without a side-by-side comparison. As to brightness, both were extremely bright, and I had to stand well away even to be able to glance in the general direction to get a comparison. (More than 40 feet / 12m)
Before you replace the setup, keep in mind that many perfectly functioning eballasts are returned. Double and triple check things before you go spending the money on a replacement.
1. Check that the mogul base is clear of debris. Sometimes there's ceramic residue in the mogul base, which means that the ballast has to arc that gap before it even gets to the lamp. Also check the base of the lamp.
2. Make sure that the lamp is screwed in all the way. (Really basic, but it's been a cause of reported failure before.
3. Check your wiring. Really. Make sure that all the wiring is secure both mechanically and electrically.
4. Don't just assume that things are okay. Really go back and check them. Take the wiring apart and reconnect it. Take the lamp out of the mogul and make sure that the socket and threads are clear.
If you must replace items...
The lamp is the cheaper. The eballast can drive regular (ANSI M59) Metal Halide lamps. This has been done, and I daresay will be done again. You can try a different lamp, and see if the ballast drives it. You could try an HPS lamp (ANSI S51) as well, though this will not work as a projector lamp. This would simply be to check if the ballast is working driving a similar lamp load as the S400DD. You could also try similar HPS conversion lamps, which you may be able to source locally at an industrial lighting place, rather than having them shipped overseas.
This will tell you what's failed. At this point, you mush choose. You can keep the S400DD, which has excellent colour specifications, or go to a 400W MH lamp, such as the Venture, which has a greater specified initial lumens figure. Note that most of these lamps will be physically larger than the S400DD. If you can find one ina T15 form factor, that would be ideal.
If you choose to stick with the S400DD, then you need a 400W HPS ballast. (ANSI S51) If you choose to go with a different style Metal Halide lamp, then you need a matching ballast. (ANSI M59 typical, but not always!) Your lighting supplier can make that recommendation.
Of course, I don't know where in Scotland you'll find these things, but the links in Mikau's post are ccertainly not going to save you on shipping.
I got the green sputtering and not restriking once. I backed out my lamp, and put it back in, and it's been fine since. (This was just after moving it from the garage at the office to home.)
On the "Good news" front, it looks like Brain's just about go the pro lenses sussed.
I did have a coil 'n core setup, with an M59 magnetic ballast, and a 4000k lamp. I switched to the LumenLab light kit. When the light kit arrived, I did a side-by-side burn of both lamps.
The Ushio was whiter. Though the 4000k lamp was definitely good, and put to shame the other lighting in my workspace, the Ushio made even that look just a touch yellow. I don't think that it would be noticable at all without a side-by-side comparison. As to brightness, both were extremely bright, and I had to stand well away even to be able to glance in the general direction to get a comparison. (More than 40 feet / 12m)
Before you replace the setup, keep in mind that many perfectly functioning eballasts are returned. Double and triple check things before you go spending the money on a replacement.
1. Check that the mogul base is clear of debris. Sometimes there's ceramic residue in the mogul base, which means that the ballast has to arc that gap before it even gets to the lamp. Also check the base of the lamp.
2. Make sure that the lamp is screwed in all the way. (Really basic, but it's been a cause of reported failure before.
3. Check your wiring. Really. Make sure that all the wiring is secure both mechanically and electrically.
4. Don't just assume that things are okay. Really go back and check them. Take the wiring apart and reconnect it. Take the lamp out of the mogul and make sure that the socket and threads are clear.
If you must replace items...
The lamp is the cheaper. The eballast can drive regular (ANSI M59) Metal Halide lamps. This has been done, and I daresay will be done again. You can try a different lamp, and see if the ballast drives it. You could try an HPS lamp (ANSI S51) as well, though this will not work as a projector lamp. This would simply be to check if the ballast is working driving a similar lamp load as the S400DD. You could also try similar HPS conversion lamps, which you may be able to source locally at an industrial lighting place, rather than having them shipped overseas.
This will tell you what's failed. At this point, you mush choose. You can keep the S400DD, which has excellent colour specifications, or go to a 400W MH lamp, such as the Venture, which has a greater specified initial lumens figure. Note that most of these lamps will be physically larger than the S400DD. If you can find one ina T15 form factor, that would be ideal.
If you choose to stick with the S400DD, then you need a 400W HPS ballast. (ANSI S51) If you choose to go with a different style Metal Halide lamp, then you need a matching ballast. (ANSI M59 typical, but not always!) Your lighting supplier can make that recommendation.
Of course, I don't know where in Scotland you'll find these things, but the links in Mikau's post are ccertainly not going to save you on shipping.
I got the green sputtering and not restriking once. I backed out my lamp, and put it back in, and it's been fine since. (This was just after moving it from the garage at the office to home.)
On the "Good news" front, it looks like Brain's just about go the pro lenses sussed.
Thanks for the reply SupraGuy,
I don't live in scotland I live in Atlantic Canada and if I'm not mistaken your in the west? right! Maybe I didn't post this at the right place.
I just ordered my parts last week. I've been waiting and waiting for the Pro lens, then I decided to go with the triplet and take it from there. I've been here for some time now following everybody's work. I just couldn't get around to find the time to build my pj.
By the way great job on your conversion the pics looks great.
As for the eballast when I turn it upside down or shake it a little, something is floating in there... I can hear broken bits of plastic or at least that's what it sounds like... ??? I have no idea what it is, that's my concern about the eballast, but on the other hand I saw a few little sparks in the bulb while I left it plug in for 10 min. When it starts up does it usually make clicking sounds every 10-15 seconds when it tries to light up? Mine does. I'm assuming this is normal, because of the pulse strike.
I'll give it another try tonight. I'm presently at work.
I notice that my bulb is not sitting straight in the mogul. As for the wiring I'll redo it tonight. I just wanted to test the light kit.
I'm still in the early stage, organising and preparing everything.
Thanks again!
Yes, The pro Lens might be finally here... Good Good Good!!!!
Later!
P.S. Sorry! Molly, for hijacking the thread... I didn't mean to...I'll stop now...
SupraGuy maybe I can move these questions somewhere else..
Thanks again for you time!
A.K.A: No. molly lives in Scotland, at least according to the first post in the thread. The primary cause for eballast failure is damage in transit.
For Canada, when you ship back the ballast, be sure to mark "return for repair" on the shipping invoice, and keep a copy of it. Be sure that it's broke first. E-mail sales@lumenlab.com to ensure that it is, and let them know that it's coming.
KEEP THAT SHIPPING RECEIPT!
When your replacement ballast comes in, you'll need that receipt in order to get your $10+GST back from Canada Post. Otherwise, you get to pay tax twice.
For Canada, when you ship back the ballast, be sure to mark "return for repair" on the shipping invoice, and keep a copy of it. Be sure that it's broke first. E-mail sales@lumenlab.com to ensure that it is, and let them know that it's coming.
KEEP THAT SHIPPING RECEIPT!
When your replacement ballast comes in, you'll need that receipt in order to get your $10+GST back from Canada Post. Otherwise, you get to pay tax twice.
QUOTE (SupraGuy @ Oct 20 2005, 10:21 PM)
A.K.A: No. molly lives in Scotland, at least according to the first post in the thread. The primary cause for eballast failure is damage in transit.
For Canada, when you ship back the ballast, be sure to mark "return for repair" on the shipping invoice, and keep a copy of it. Be sure that it's broke first. E-mail sales@lumenlab.com to ensure that it is, and let them know that it's coming.
KEEP THAT SHIPPING RECEIPT!
When your replacement ballast comes in, you'll need that receipt in order to get your $10+GST back from Canada Post. Otherwise, you get to pay tax twice.
For Canada, when you ship back the ballast, be sure to mark "return for repair" on the shipping invoice, and keep a copy of it. Be sure that it's broke first. E-mail sales@lumenlab.com to ensure that it is, and let them know that it's coming.
KEEP THAT SHIPPING RECEIPT!
When your replacement ballast comes in, you'll need that receipt in order to get your $10+GST back from Canada Post. Otherwise, you get to pay tax twice.
I'm pretty sure it's the eballast, because when I first plug it in I see a spark in the bulb for the first few tries. if it was the bulb I don't think I would see anything at all. I'm not sure I've never work with these types of bulbs before. It might of took a beating during shipping. Since the eballast has something floating around in there it might not be operating to it's full strenght. ???
I was wondering about the shipping and GST, because I already paid it. Thanks for the info. I don't think I want to pay the tax twice.
Thanks again for your help
A.K.A
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