http://www.diy-community.de/viewtopic.php?...ht=psone+haraldalso got a pdf but keeps giving me "The total filespace required to upload all the attached files is greater than your per post or global limit. Please reduce the number of attachments or the size of the attachments" when i try to attach
this is what i get translated????
More lights, less RED
Like promised here the modification.
By the brightness at the display to increase must you in the first picture between the yellow point and mass a resistance solder. Since I your taste not know, which brightness also on input level the signal source dependent be, and it not forget should like beschissen the display times be, recommend I here a potentiometer of 4,7KOhm or 10KOhm with a 150Ohm resistance in row. So can the resistance never small than 150Ohm become, and you can even decide like bright it the picture adjust want. The dim potentiometer at the 2 keys on the board should at least on 50% stands (I have mine on 100%) suns becomes nix from the brightness. I only a FBAS signal used whether also to RGB does not apply white I.
I did not try, how long the cable can become the potentiometer, until there are disturbances, but 30cm is not with me a problem. If it evtl. To give, then protected audio cable should use problems, solder screen on on mass, interior leader to the place marked by the point of yellow.
But watch out please when soldering. Power pack always plug off. Always only briefly bring the fingers and the soldering point at mass to the soldering point before setting, so that there is no static unloading. You solder here at SMD construction units, bear not infinitely much heat. Only soldering irons with thin point take, no hammer soldering iron. Is the construction units and the plate suns equivalent.
Fig. 1: Connection point for resistance 150Ohm + potentiometers in row against mass
Fig. 2: So sieht's with me out, the 2 wires go to the potentiometer
Fig. 3: Before
Fig. 4: Afterwards (total resistance between yellow point and mass is 470Ohm)