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Full Version: r3n0's PLOG 17" L72S
Lumenlab > Audio Video Sciences > Projector Builder > PLOG, Your Project Logs
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r3n0
Welcome to my plog:


After waiting for more than year for the pro lenses i decided to get the 395a and b from 3dlens.com and the standard triplet from LL along side the L72S (17" 700:1 8ms $260 @zipzoomfly)

If you have this minitor then check out these plogs:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6250
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7072&st=0.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8033
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7842&hl=

Parts:
$260 shipped L72S 17" zipzoomfly.com
$133 Norpro reflector, Venture lamp, ballast and socket
$14. silicon, 12 VCD .9 amp pwr supply, 2 switches
$27 standard LL triplet
$77 3dlens.com 395a 395b
$27 2 evercool pcac fans from nexfan.com
$10 Lexan (osh)
$2.42 Flat spray can (osh)
$3.33 1/4" 6 foot threaded rod
$15 3x L wood strips .5"x.75" (for the LCD frame) only used 1 of the 3, decided not to frade the lenses.
$6 Mothers mag & alunimum polish 5oz


Alright, so to get started I made the box with extra wood I had around the house, luckily i had just enough.

Went to osh, got FLAT BLACK spray can ($2.42). Sanded the inside and spray painted it.

Stripped my LCD (Zipzoomfly, no dead pixels, 2nd day free shipping, would buy again? yes). Here is my stripping guide on the L72S
ryaninlondon
great, looking forward to see how you go
r3n0
here a very very rough picture, is this the right meansurements?
http://home.graffiti.net/r3n0:graffiti.net/shcem.gif
comp_atkins
congrats on starting construction.. looking forward to seeing your progress.
r3n0
ANother stripping guide of the L72S:
1) take off the 2 screw covers on the stand


2) Unscew the 6 screws holding it down


3) take the stand thing off,


4) get a flat head screw driver and stick it between the light and dark frame. should unsnap 16 times.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a387/CodyJca/DSCF1348.jpg

5) take off the front cover
r3n0
6) Kinda blurry but unplug the 2 speaker plugs and the control board plug


7) Already took off out the LCD here but stick a flat head screw driver in and dislodge the clips, 3 on the right side and 3 more on the left.


8) these pictures turned out really bad but unscrew 4 screws on the sides of the lcd
r3n0
9) cut off the zip tie


10) take off the reflective tape


11) should look like this now

ctrl board
r3n0
12) this part is scary, take off the 2 microscopic gold screws , i used a pocketkinfe.


13) now there is a metal frame, use a flat head to pry it away from the clips and take it out, then theres a black frame and do the same thing.


14) almost done, take off the frames then take off the sheets of paper


15) yay all done
r3n0
Heres all my supplies :


alright, here is my box


here is it painted
r3n0
If anyone know any good diagrams on how to wire the m59 let me know, thanks
r3n0
I did more planning and cut the holes for the monitor control board, fans , switches, etc. Right now im working on the adjustable lightning mechanism, i will post pictures tomorrow.
r3n0
Well i added some stuff
I bolted down the ballast


Cut out holes for the evercools and switches, but i kinda decided to get a thermostat so the 2nd switich is useless, so i might cut it out for the power plug


This is the frame for my LCD


Reflector (note: Wear gloves if you are using a dremmel to cutthe reflector.. sad.gif
r3n0
Here is my adjustable light setup that i got from comp atkins


Opcod
Hi

Good work for now and your frame look very good also.

About the monitor , do you have the dimension of the lcd itself ? (only the lcd without bracket )

Thanks
comp_atkins
QUOTE (r3n0 @ Oct 18 2005, 04:10 AM) *
If anyone know any good diagrams on how to wire the m59 let me know, thanks


looking good so far... is your ballast a pulse start or standard m59? i see an ignitor in the pics so i'm thinking its a pulse start (m135 maybe? )

your parts list says its a venture so the datasheets can be found at
http://www.venturelighting.com/VLPS/BallastDataSheets/PSMH/

just find the part # for the ballast and there is a wiring diagram in the pdf..

if u have any questions, feel free to ask smile.gif
r3n0
its a pulse start, i wired it and started it today works great! DAMN its bright!

Alright, a little more progress

heres a pic of the box mounted with the beginnings of the wiring


more progress


and more



The 120v to 12 v pwr supply on the right is wired wrong im pretty sure (fans dont work)


And here is my idea on how to make the triplet adjustable


and sucess!!! not that green in RL, i didnt white balance the camera



Just incase you guys had trouble wiring, this is the diagram i used for my Pulse Start system, pretty sure a m135.
r3n0
I redesigned my frames, i ended up keeping the LCD frame but didnt put the Fresnel lenses in frames, just drilled holes in them and stuck 1/4" threaded rods though them with springs between the lenses and LCD with nuts holding them in place,
I bolted down the fixture for the Lexan and goign to rewire the Fans soon, VEry VERY CLOSE TO BEING DONE!
comp_atkins
QUOTE (r3n0 @ Oct 27 2005, 12:34 PM) *
I redesigned my frames, i ended up keeping the LCD frame but didnt put the Fresnel lenses in frames, just drilled holes in them and stuck 1/4" threaded rods though them with springs between the lenses and LCD with nuts holding them in place,
I bolted down the fixture for the Lexan and goign to rewire the Fans soon, VEry VERY CLOSE TO BEING DONE!


waiting on the screen shots smile.gif
r3n0
my perdictions, by friday it will be completed *fingers crossed*
r3n0
im a little worried, i set u my lenses then turned on my light and i see 1 big slenger light spot on the end (where the triplet would go) and a smaller slender sot right above it a couple inches, anyone know whazt this means? (i hope i didnt mount the lenses off centerd)
justinstar77
sounds like your reflector is out of alignment, or a light leak coming from somewhere, is there anything shiny that light could be bouncing off and are you sure your fresnels are in the right sides both with grooves facing toward each other a pic might be helpful and don't worry to much your almost there...
good luck!
r3n0
SUCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i got my first image on my projector!!!!!!!! if i could cuss on these forums i would, i would be cussing up a storm of happiness for all to read and enjoy!

ill post the pics asap!

its almost done, i need to put in metal flashing and thats it!!!! OH BOY!
r3n0
yea, my lenses were not in line but i just recently fixed that , one thing ive noticed so far, i have a cresent rainbow on the top of my image, triplet not alline?
Radon
Is your lid on? If light can escape across the top of the lenses than you will get a rainbow effect.
r3n0
well the rainbow problem was conqured. i dont know how, but its not there anymore (most likely right radon)

right now i have couple questions, i test the temp by hanging a normal thermomiter in the air flow, btw the LCD and lense and i have noticed the outsides of the panel are a lot cooler than the middle (90 F compared to 105 F) my question is, will i ruin the lcd in the cernter since its getting so hot?
what areyour guyses temperatreues?
r3n0
here are some new pics,
this is just some interal pics of the projector


r3n0
this is the garage door im goign to project on to temporaroly


this is one of the first images, the center is the backside of a banner from a local theatre (pure white)


lights on (6 flourescents)



and this is a close up, lights off. The 2 blurry spots are small circular pieces of tape on the center of each frenel so i can fgure out if it is centered or not, anyone thing since they are off a little will make that much of a difference?

r3n0
alright, i have a couple pics here, i will post more pics in a bit, i have to find a camera that can take good and not blurry pictures







Just incase you are wondering, this is a 10.7 foot screen projected onto large sheets of paper (54" rolls)

new pics coming soon
pagercam
QUOTE (r3n0 @ Nov 9 2005, 01:47 AM) *
The 2 blurry spots are small circular pieces of tape on the center of each frenel so i can fgure out if it is centered or not, anyone thing since they are off a little will make that much of a difference?

Having them aligned can only help so I'd make every effort to align as good as you can, any amount of off axis will loose light.
comp_atkins
looking pretty good. congrats! smile.gif
r3n0
OKay I have tweaked it a little moe and have some pictures for you all.

Keep in mind i still need to find the right exposure, white balance, etc etc to get really good pics with my digital camera. Just to let you know it looks a LOT beter in person.

slightly blurry












r3n0







r3n0







r3n0




r3n0
all the ghosting (can really see them in the family guy photos) are mostly due to the camera slow shutter speed.
shivers20
Whoa I thought that spot on your image was the lcd starting to burn. Brings back old memories when I was testing with a halogen worklight. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. Your image looks as good as my 15". I may be wrong but I believe that the pro lens is a must for the 17inchers. Even with the standard triplet, I dont think it qualifies. Just my opinion and I am not trying to be harsh. Good luck. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
comp_atkins
laugh.gif kiss saves christmas

lookin good
r3n0
and some more pics

(all pretty blurry)







r3n0




r3n0






brutuz
Looks great smile.gif did not realise that so much light comes out of the fans and those are the evercools i see.
r3n0
yea, i orderd black but got blue evercools sad.gif, im going to have to paint them at some point,
lately ive just been hanging a towel over the esge to block most of the light
brutuz
I see, they are blue plexiglass? so the light comes through.
r3n0
yup
mikelish
how bad are the 17 inch dim corners, at least when viewing 16x9

and

what is your width at what throw

thanks
comp_atkins
lookin good smile.gif
r3n0
well right now i can tell you in widescreen movies the dim corners or not existent, (wher es the spell check?)
u cant see them at all

if its fullscreen then yea, you can see dimess in the corners but its not as aparent as you would think, its not that big of a deal for me, plus i know my bulb is off centerd slightly in the 1 direction that i didnt adjust for.

if you are concerned about dim corders then MAKE YOUR LIGHT adjustable!!

oh for the distance, the screen is 10.7 feet from corner to corner and the throw is about 8 feet or so, ill get the exact measurements soon.

Coming soon: Hi Def pictures
r3n0
NOTE: I guess i exceeded my bandwith at photobucket (2.5 gigs) for this month, it will reset on the 17th so come back and check it out. Anyone recoment any other place to post their pics maybe with a higher bandwith?
tovarishrob
QUOTE (r3n0 @ Nov 16 2005, 10:21 AM) *
NOTE: I guess i exceeded my bandwith at photobucket (2.5 gigs) for this month, it will reset on the 17th so come back and check it out. Anyone recoment any other place to post their pics maybe with a higher bandwith?


Just paste them directly into the thread... LL will host them for free

use the add attachment fxn when making your post
mikelish
QUOTE (r3n0 @ Nov 16 2005, 02:17 AM) *
well right now i can tell you in widescreen movies the dim corners or not existent, (wher es the spell check?)
u cant see them at all

if its fullscreen then yea, you can see dimess in the corners but its not as aparent as you would think, its not that big of a deal for me, plus i know my bulb is off centerd slightly in the 1 direction that i didnt adjust for.

if you are concerned about dim corders then MAKE YOUR LIGHT adjustable!!

oh for the distance, the screen is 10.7 feet from corner to corner and the throw is about 8 feet or so, ill get the exact measurements soon.

Coming soon: Hi Def pictures


superb, my fresnels are in the mail, i can hardly wait

my reflector is adjustable from the left side of the box externally

same goes for my bulb on the right

i cant do left and right centering, so i plan to do my best to get it centered the first time



nice plog, and i look forward to more photos


take care
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