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Starting off with the LCD tear down.
I am using a Gateway FPD1530 15 inch panel.

Begin by removing the wire retaining clip from the neck like so.

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Now remove thw neck from the panel.

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Next remove all the screws from the back of the panel.

And some more....

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Now take an old plastic card of some sort and get it into the seam of the case. You might need to use a screwdriver to pry it apart far enough to get the card in. Then work the card along the edge to pop it apart. This will take some forceful patience.

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Then work it down to the other end along the side and pull gently at the corner to start the other edge. Once the other edge pops open you can now remove the face, but be careful of the wires that are attached to the power button.

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You can now remove the plug that is attched to the power button. You need to press the little tab shown below to release the plug.

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Now you can begin to remove the panel assembly from the case. Start by removing the four screws that hold the assembly to the case.

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One more...

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The assembly is now almost free... be cautious of the three wires that are still attached.

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Now remove the three wires as shown below.

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Remove the piece of tape that was over the plug.

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Now set the panel assembly aside and get set to remove the power/controller sub-assembly from the case.

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Remove the shiny pieces of tape.

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Start removing the screws....

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And more screws...

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One more and then remove the sub-assembly cover.

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Now remove even more screws to remove the sub-assembly from the case.

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You can now lift the sub-assembly out of the case.

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Now is a good time to remove the button boards from the front of the case. Just remove the two screws.

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Then just lift the whole thing out.

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Hmmmm maybe I can incorporate these nice buttons into the PJ case.

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OK time to start extracting the actual panel.
Begin by removing the side rails from the panel assembly.

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Remove the pesky tape as shown.

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And remove the screws for the other rail.

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Now remove the metal frame from the panel assembly by carefully prying it away from the plastic frame.

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Do not remove the frame yet! There is some adhesive tape attaching it to the plastic sheeting that guards the board attached directly to the panel. You will damage the edge connectors if you attempt to just pull the metal frame away.

So lets just remove that pesky plastic sheeting....

Turn the whole thing on its side and hinge the metal frame out so it will allow the whole thing to sit there by itself.

Then carefully peel back the plastic sheeting until you can pull the metal frame away.

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looking good, keep up the good work

Now remove the two small gold screws holding the LCD panel circuit board to the plastic frame.

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Now you can CAREFULLY slide the panel away from the plastic frame.

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Now carefully setup your panel so you can test it. I placed it into the metal frame loose. Then I used a clamp to hold the metal frame up with the panel just kind of leaning against the frame to hold it up. Then I attached the sub-assembly cable to the LCD panel circuit board and plugged in the power button. Then I plugged the VGA cable to the sub-assembly and then plugged it into the wall outlet.

I then setup a lamp behind the panel and dimmed the lights in the room.

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To store the panel I just layed it on the plastic frame and let the LCD circuit board hang over the edge of the table.

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I then placed one of the plastic sheets for the backlight over the panel to protect it from dust.

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Well that is it for the panel tear down....

Tune in next time when I will be building the PJone case.

Wow...Great posting on the teardown! I wish more people did detailed posts like this on there work. Looking forward to seeing your PJ progress

Brettman

Thanks brettman....

I figure the more info people put in their plogs the easier and less daunting it will be for others.
Plus its fun!

Thanks for the step by step breakdown. I’m just getting started with research and this was very helpful.

I look forward to seeing how everything else goes.

wow! thank you for the info on this lcd, i am currently looking to byu a new one

OK I finally got the plans printed out. Now I will be able to start on the case.

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First I taped the schematic to the .5" MDF.

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Then I carefully cut around the outline with a razor knife.

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Time to sharpen the pencil.
Im using one of those flat wood workers pencils. Usually I use a razor knife to sharpen the pencil, but I picked up one of these sweet flat pencil sharpeners at the hardware store.

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Now it is time to trace the cut out onto the wood.

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Next use a square to draw a "bounding box" of the outline. This will give us a guide line to cut out the rough rectangle for the first side of the case.

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Now it is time to make the first cut. I do not have a table saw so Im using a technique I found in the... where else... internet. What you do is get some pre-laminated shelving and a piece of .25" hardboard. Then line the shelving up to the edge of the hardboard and screw the hardboard to the shelving from the hardboard side, recessing the screws. Now just make one pass across the hardboard using the shelving as a guide and voila... You made a cheap saw guide.

Whew! I hope that made sense.

Now just line up the guide to the cut line and clamp it down. Now make your cuts.

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With the straight cuts out of the way it is time to make the curved cuts.
Im breaking out the jigsaw for this task.

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And here is the roughly trimmed out piece...

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Here is another little trick if you do not have a sweet belt sander setup.
If you have a hand held belt sander then you are in luck. Just turn it upside down and place a clamp on the handle or body of the sander. Then clamp the clamp holding the sander to the work table with... yep, more clamps.
Now you can use both hands to hold your wood (he,he) firmly on the sander. (he said firmly)
Bring the rough edge up to the outline mark on the wood.


Done with one side!

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Now trace the first side onto another piece of .5" MDF.

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Now cut and sand the second side just as you did on the first side.

After that clamp the two sides together and match them up on the sander.

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That does it for the cutting of the sides segment....

Tune in next time when I will be over at my friend Jeff's warehouse borrowing his drill press.

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Ok here we are over at Jeff's warehouse studio....

And here is the drillpress....

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I used the template and the drill bit tip to mark the hole positions, then I circled the marks.

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Then we checked the depth. I went with the reccomended .25"

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First hole done.. Now on to the rest.

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All done with the holes for the dowels.

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Now Ill have to go to the ole hardware store to pickup some dowels.

I second that... I have a 1530 on the way and decided to search to see if anyone had used one yet...nice job so far, this will be my second pj and I too am going to go for the haasman style, muxh more appealing to the female types ;-) anyway do you have measurements on the lcd panel itself , height, width and depth(mounted in the frame) ? I'd like to get a head start on designing the lcd/fresnel sled ... am thinking of trying a combo of keystoning and lens shifting probably... thanks for the great stripdown!

I will post the measurments later today....

thanks I really appreciate it!

OK... The measurments are:

LCD height = 9.1875" (9 3/16")
LCD width = 12.1875" (12 3/16")
LCD thickness = approx .0625" (1/16")

Frame height = 9.875" (9 7/8")
Frame width = 12.75" (12 3/4")
Frame thickness = .4375" (7/16") it's right around 1/2", but Im trying to be as accurate as I can here....

I think I will be using the frame to mount the panel in the sled. Just a little dremel action to clear away some obstructions and it will make a nice mount.

No problemo!

Sorry I missed this post earlier...
The panel looks like it will work well...
The only thing I anticipate is having to extend the cable that connects the controller board to the panel. It is made up of stranded copper wires so I should be able to do a little solder work to extend it as far as needed.

I will fully document that process.

cool.... this will help a lot in planning, thanks, yeah I used the metal frame of my first LCD for mounting and it worked out really nice and sturdy...

hey, what is the brand/model # of your actual panel? I hate when they change panels in the middle of a run...mine looks totally different inside from yours its an LG Phillips LM150X05 ..very nice and modular though, haven't gotten the backlight off so still don't know if it will be totally strippable, have hopes though LG panels are pretty strippable generally... got my haas_man box together this weekend(except for top panel , no guts in it yet) hope yours is coming along !