yoshuaspawn: maybe you should post your triplet polar question here on this thread. It would seem more appropriate.
sim

For the record, I soaked the AG for 9 hours, it came out in 1 single piece, I applied almost zero force to it, BUT in the very last half inch it scuffed the polar in 3 different spots. Bad luck.

BTW, I think some of the water got through the polar in 1 spot near the edge because it was somehow loose and wrinkled (dont know the exact word in english), im sure I did not put any liquid over the polar edge. oversoaking?

That is a difficult one. Since we have no evidence of over-soaking with our crash tests, I have to assume this is a case of under-soaking. Assuming then that over-soaking does not exist then 12 hours is the safe time. Anything less could cause scuffing. Of course, you may actually have discovered over-soaking as a concern. We unfortunately will just have to wait and see more panels to be sure. What you found is characteristic of the other under-soaks, though.

Mark.

Just thought I'd remind everyone that I first soaked the 512N for 15 hours, and then again for close to 24 hours. No effects from "oversoaking."

Well after an unsuccesful rag soak attempt, and full polarizer removal, I went through a hellish lcd stripping nightmare. Thought I had wrecked the lcd three times but in the end it was perfectly fine. (somehow...)

Anyways, about 250 dollars later all I can say is the improvement is pretty minimal. I really need to find a polarizer as translucent as an lcd polarizer. It must look so great when the ragging method works. :angry:

But I don't necessarily think the mod was innefective. The 512N had gamma adjustment on its controls. With this westinghouse, I've got the brightness on the N6 all the way down to 25! If I turn up the brightness anymore, it washes out. I couldn't go anywhere below 40 on the brightness level before. With the 512N I could change the gamma setting if it looked too washed out. Can't do that on this lcd.

But I may finally be getting my hands on an htpc. I'll have to buy a dvd drive and maybe a video pass through card. Hopefully that will leave me satisfied.

So now I just need to keep an eye out for a place that sells high quality polarizers. Hey mark, wasn't there a certain super high contrast polarizer that you were drooling over a while back?

Hey vroom, I kept my polarizer flat by cutting a window out of a sheet of cardboard and taping it on all sides, then fastening it on the fresnel frame. Quick easy and effective. So long as the cardboard is taped to the fresnel it won't warp.

I e-mailed polarization.com about any suggestions on how to uncurl the polarizer. I also asked about the light transmittance of their different polarizers (I bought the non-adhesive). Here is their response:

OK someone please help me out here.

I'm stripping my Sharp 15.4" panel . On the side that is going to face the triplett there is a SILVER reflective surface ???

Here's a pic:



Help me out here. What is it and what do I do with it ?

Nice. But make sure you get all the specifications before you purchase. There is no way he does not know the specifications. Why they don't publish them is beyond me.

Mark.

jonjandran,

Thanks for trying this mod on your panel first, I was afraid I'd have to be the first one! Good luck, I hope all goes well so the rest of us can do the mod with confidence.

That could possibly be the Anti Reflective surface we were debating about. Mark?

Well alls not well.

All I did was take off the backlight and now I only get a pic on 1/3 of the screen and lins across the rest. And no I didn't bend the ffcs at all.

What the heck ?

Run your finger along the PCB where the FFC connect, an edge can come up easily. If you find one that is barely loose just tape it down it should be ok. Actually, I have taped all my FFCs so I reccomend you do the same.

This is usually the result of one of the TABs being somehow damaged (many times you can't even see the damage). The TABs are the FFC type things that connect the control board to the actual panel. There are places online that fix them, but they charge at least $75 to do it.

I understand that but I never even bent the board with the ffc's backwards. It was never even moved more than a 1/4 inch.

Well the screen is meesed up but that Antiglare still must go.

It turned out to be 2 pieces glued together. I started pulling upi the first piece but noticed it wasn't clear underneath , so I found the second layer.

It's strange it has a purplish tint to it and it feels like a mix between wrapping paper and aluminum foil.

Here it is. The first pic is both pieces together , the upper left hand corner is where the 2 pieces first came apart. The second pic is with part of the second layer torn off and laying beside the part is was torn off of.






Oh and it came off with a 1 hour soak. Working on the "normal" antiglare on the other side as I type.

Was that a diffusive film you just removed? Why did you remove it?

1 hour? Make sure you'r not forcing it. Why is it dimpled like that?

If a large portion of your screen is blank, that sounds like something other than a TAB. That sounds like something further back.

Mark.

Niether of those layers have polarizing properties?

Sure does look like a polarizer!

Strange, hope that wasn't one of them double brightness polar films like the Vikuiti's from 3m. Might explain the 2 antiglare sides, this may have been compensator for the 2 sided diffusiveness. jonjandran, try the test to see if any acts like a polarizer as Mark suggest, I'm also really curious.
sim

That definitely looks like polarizer to me.

Well there is still a Polar Bear that was under the 2 layers I took off. I peeled a corner of it up and sure enough , it's a polar bear. The panel now looks just like the other 2 panels that I removed the antiglare from.

I'm stripping the Antiglare off the other side. It's been soaking 4 hours and it's just starting to come off. I'll re-check the panel when it's off and make sure I didn't pull off anything that's needed.

Like I said , the double layer that I peeled off is sort of silver with a purple rainbow-like tint. I just realized what it feels like, exactly like the anti-static bags thet electronic parts come in.

I removed it because there was no possible way I was going to get a good projection through it. You couldn't hardly even see through it.

And no I didn't force it. Came off VERY easy after the water soak. And I don't know why it's dimpled . After I peeled it off, it curls real bad and sticks to itself , and when I unpeeled it off itself , it causes those creases that looks like dimples .

And I'm still wonering about the screen . It's about 2/3 blank and pushing on the ffc's don't cause anything to change. And sometimes the whole scren stays blank until I replug in the screen to the controller.

Regardless of wether there is still a polarizer on your panel, you should test and see if those sheets polarize. They may have been a brightness enhancement system (a reflective polarizer).

Well it seems as if the polarizers are still on and working after the stripping. I really don't kniow what those other layers were.

The rear antiglare took 10 hours before it would come off. Tough stuff.

Oh and the panel is totally ruined. I can only get lots of messed up lines in it now. So I guess the ffc's are pretty fragile on this one.

that's a shame jonjandran, can the FFC's be fixed. There must some loose connections

Do you think the 10 hour soak damaged the rest of the screen?. What about static? all you did was remove the back lights

Did you ground yourself first, or wear a antistatic band, something must have happend during the stipping but what? did you rush the strip?

The FCC board could need to be commoned to the controller after removing the frame? There could have been some connection there through the metal frame? Typical symptom of what you are saying - that you have to replug the controller to get any image back.

Thats good news. I just hope this higher transmission film is more transmissive then the lcd polarizer with adhesive. (its a piece of junk in my worthless oppinion!)

But have you tried them to see if they have polarization properties? Again, regardless of whether your panel still polarizes, those could be polarizers.I really think this is not your FFC's. Work your way back and look for other connections.

Try plugging the backlight back in. Could be a required circuit.

Mark.

This is from Minotens Plog, stripping the WUXGA. anyone know or seen these these wires he is mentioning

No, I kept looking for these too but I don't remember seeing them when I stripped mine. The only wires I recall during the strip were the ones running to the backlight tube. Now along one side you do have these stubby FFC's. Maybe he's talking about these???

No I didn't rush the strip. It's my 5th so I have lerned to go slow.

I didn't wear a antistatic band but I did ground myself by touching metal on the controller board when working on the LCD before and after the strip. Maybe I should have pulled out the band.



The soak was also done carefully, but I did notice a loose ffc afterwards. But by then I wasn't being as careful , I had pretty much given up hope.



Well it was in no way grounded before that I could tell, bt I have tried grounding it to the controller grounds and it doesn't help.



They do have polarization properties. If I put them in front of my computer lcd, as you turn them they make the screen get darker and then purple and then clear again.

And no-go on the backlight , I plugged it back in and it came on but did not help.



Mine has 5 stubby ffc's on the side that aren't hooked up to anything. Must be what he's talking about.

Well thanks for all the help. I'll order another one off Ebay and try again . What's another $250

If there is any state of purple then those are probably additional enhancement polarizers (reflective). Surely you don't mean that both the layers you pulled up have polarization properties?

Did you still get an image anywhere that those layers were removed?

Leaving them on is going to cut out a fair bit of light (16%+-). But people should consider keeping those layers on in case we find a way to utilize their reflected light. There is some experimenting going on to that effect.

Yes I still got an image with both of them off. Hard to tell if it was different.

It was a dual layer. And when they peeled apart it seemed to ruin each piece, so to speak. The ares where I peeled the 2 pieces apart sort of lost their polar properties. In other words they looked different, and each piece seemd like it no longer was a polarizer.

Is that understandable ?

So the two layers you removed only polarize if they are sandwiched together? If this was a brightness enhancement reflective polarizer, then removing it would have made the panel a bit lighter in that area. I don't think the contrast ratio should have been effected. One thing to note is that a reflective polarizer is a multi-layered construction. They need all the layers to function.

For sure nobody should remove these rear surface films until we figure out what they are.

Looks like some others are also removing the antiglare with great results.

Hami Antiglare Removal

Like wildfire. Looks like know-one knows where the idea came from . Kind if funny: that thread actually started with the guy yanking off the whole polarizer, thinking it could run with just one.

Did you also notice the date he posted?
I posted the Stripper method in October then he on November, makes you wonder, eh? BTW this is the same thread our very own socialable friend 'pepe' posted to others as reference to his 'not worth doing' spill.
sim

Maybe Elken, Mark and I should go there with the ™ symbol and ask a few questions about what they think..hehehehe
sim

Yes, I found the dates very interesting also.

. I do like their term WaterMod™. That's a cool name. I think I'll take it .

HEHE! Should at least play dumb and ask where they came up with that brilliant idea.

oh, that hurt my stomach muscles.
sim

Grrrrrrrrr


Pepe LePeww

NEW polarization.com Linear polarizer for Super High Contrast LCDs...

Non-adhesive, shipped flat.

Unfortunately, it's $70.

What does everyone think?

43.4%

37.7%

0.0078%

99.979%

Outstanding . Just what we have been waiting for. You couldn't ask for much better than that (no adhesive ).

It is the Sanritz HLC2-5618 (Super High Contrast) Polarizer.

The only better one that I have been able to find in the world is the Sanritz Ultra Super High Contrast polarizer. Too bad he didn't go for that one as well:

44.3

39.4

0.0098

99.975

Hehehehe new coin of phrase...


Mark::: The Wet One..

Elken::: The Trippied Polar Bear..

Simul8r::: The Great Stripper..

but his first was 'The Scratch and Dent'

Three Months out now,, all is good,,, Perfection......

That Hami link is a ripoff,,,, Sim,, he stole your method!!!
not even a mention of where he got it from........

So you think it'll be better than the original 512N polarizer? Any idea "how much" in terms of actual discernable difference?

Yeah, I know. Didn't even give me the respect after my strip...........................................hehehehe
sim

Yo vroom: For the price, just how big of a sheet. You might want to ask if anybody would go halfies with you. Just a thought.
sim