Hi there, "all ya all". *

MississippiMan checking in.

I've received a few enquirys from DIY LCD PJ advocates as to if Light Fusion might be an aid in their acquiring a more vivid, brighter image..

Upon purchasing the "Guide' and getting access to this Forum, I've seen a lot of posts expounding on most of the Reflective Mylar & Transparent Film ideas brought forth on the other 3-4 Forums I participate in DIY endeavours. Some have potential, others are rife with additional issues.

But as I see it, any group of individuals with as much drive and inititive as you DIY LDC PJ enthusiasts seem to have can probably lick those issues. Go get 'em!

I have remained "focused" on utilizing 1/8" Acrylic Mirrors (.110 - Rear Surfaced) with just the right amount of MMud applied to the surface. Over time, it became advantageous to add a slight amount of Faux Silver Metallic paint to the "White" MMud to both increase CR at the surface level (...the Mirror adds some CR enhancement as well). As in many things "DIY", what you find that helps out in one direction can sometimes assist you in others unexpectedly.

The addition of SM allowed for the surface coating of MMud to go on thinner, but cover the mirror better, as in "quicker" and with less paint, yet still wind up with a higher degree of initial opacity.

I have had absolutely none of the "blurring" or "Defocusing" issues some have reported. I am certain that this comes from using "too thick mirrors" and/or having too little paint on a mirror, allowing too much returning light to "Fuse" with the surface image. A standard test is to use menu Graphics projected on the painted screen, and if they/when they appear clear and sharp, you stop adding paint. But this aspect of "when to stop to check" has been at the root of the few failures some have had with the highly translucent "White" MMud mix.

Now, the addition of the Silver Metallic to the MMud mix (AKA: MMud-SE*)*Silver Edition has leveled the playing feild, and has produced far more consistant results.

Quite honestly, I know of no one who has botherd to communicate with me via a forum or email "personally", and follow the reccomended instructions "to the letter" who has ever had a reported failure to acheive what he was hoping for. That method does require quite a bit of my spare time to accomodate, but I've given it freely.

I'll do no less for this Forum's community. I can see none of the bias toward Mfg Screens here on Lumenlab I've encountered elseweare. At the start of the "Light Fusion" era, there was enough accusitory or "debunk-oreinted" posting to fill 10 forums, due to reslendent screen shots the like never before taken from projected images of LCD & DLP PJs "Too good to be real" from some, but even more vindicative posts from those who sell MFG screens and Mfg. Screen paints. (nameless they shall remain.)

Let it be plainly and clearly known that I am a businessman. I have many Dealers for my main line of "Invisible" Audio products throught the US and abroad. I created MMud to help with the making of "painted wall" screens over three tears ago when i realized that Front projection was going to trump all other "Theater" display applications due to dropping costs and increases in quality. Prior to that, I cannot tell you how many RPTVs and Direct Veiw CRTs I "built-in" to walls to obtain the "Califorina Flat on the Wall" TV look. My website is full of those applications.

I haven't done one pf those for over 3 years now, not since my first "Wall".

So yes, let it be known I do use Light Fusion as an addition "Exclusive" boost to my Dealer's repetoire. And of course in my own Custom HT Designs/Installations.

But this DOES NOT MEAN I aspire to profit off the DIY community in any way. I personnaly think my previous efforts prove that, but some take the opposite bent, primarily because I do so very many Light Fusions for profit "Off Forum".

I'd like to honestly put forth the following. At no time over the last three years have I EVER sent a potential client onto the Forums to veiw my efforts, and to use such as leverage to persuade then to "bite' on such. I don't have to. I have many willing customers who usher total strangers into their homes for personal veiwings, on the weight of their being so proud of their screens.

Some threads did show the wild response I've received at various Home shows, but that was only to help convince doubters that the application was "tried, tested, and true", and approved of by JohnQ Public as a whole, not just by "enthusiasts"

I'm unfortunately a little proud of it all as well. In no way do I want to bring even one smidgen of the discordant attitude onto Lumenlab that has arrisen on Forums where such popularity of a single DIY application seems to threaten the income & advertising potential of existing sponsers. Or make others feel I'm trying to "Be a Glory Hound".

Guys, I don't need that. There's no profit, monetarily or egotistically speaking worth putting one's self up as being "Superior" in front of so many who will obviously dissagree. I might seem incredibly enthusiastic..., even overly opinionated at times, but it is in fact due to my own steadfast beleif in the Light Fusion princible.

Oh yeah. I often post very long posts. That seems to distress some as well. I'm sorry about that. More than you could know since I'm a "hunt & peck' typist. I type like I'd speak about something, and when your conveying ideas & instructions to a newbie on how to do something they have never considered before, I'd rather be guilty of supplying too much info & help than not enough.

So here I am. Willing to field any questions, offer any advice, and contribute whatever help I can to make what I see your unique route to Home Theater even more unique, and certainly keep the entire effort rooted in DIY.

BTW, I have additional surprises to come soon, involving the use of "affordable & ridgid" First Surface materials. I'm never satisfied. That's me.

I'll try to post only images representitive of PJ output in the same range as your DIY LCD PJs output, so as to keep the representations "real".. That is, until a few of you have the ability to show off the "real deal".. Once that happens, my job will be done, and I can leave it all up to you, a true DIY community, to carry the idea as far as your imaginations and work ethics can take it.

I can't seem to stop "peckin"

Welcome to the forums MM! I've read many of your posts over at AVS.
Why don't you post a couple of good screenshots and the mystical formula
you used to create same.

Thanks.

Hi MM,

I too have read many of your posts over at AVS and look forward to more posts from you on this forum. I have been sceptical about the whole light fusion theory but would like to give it a try at some point in the future and remain open to the idea.

I am looking to try some of the following ideas (if I ever get some time)

1. Reflective mylar with frosted glass filters, (I am currently waiting for samples of the frosted glass) If the this is too tranparent then maybe several layers although this may block light that is 'fused' diffused from the layer below.

2. Reflective mylar with MMUD-SE, not sure if you approve of this but I'm just experimenting. It would be nice to see a copy of your recommended application and breakdown of components on this forum.

3. Reflective Polarizer sheets on a black base such as suggested in the Mirage screen Topic on this forum.

Thanks for any advice, and lets hope things stay positive. I don't want this forum to end up like some of the topics on AVS, if you know what I mean!

Thank you Paladin,

I will do exactly as you request this evening. I'm off to squirt a 140" diagonal Mirror this morning that will receive it's image from a 1000 lumen DLP that when optimized for Home theater produces only 375 actual lumens (Studio Experience 50-HD)

It's for a Home Show display here in Memphis...in a garage, no less.

Here's an image of a 122" diagona; Light Fusion getting hit with a Z2.

Just for "Eye candy' purposes, of course!

my4keys82,

I gotta go, but I just saw your post. I have several folks in the Uk starting Light Fusion screens, and their results will soon be posted on the AVS-UK Screens forum. I'll provide you with some links tonight.

MMan

BTW, I "Approve" of all experimentation as long as the "experimental" end results are taken in context with the original concept. Make it all the more better, cheaper, and easier, and you'll have EVERYBODY's thanks, not just mine.

And you can bet your Crumpets I'll take notice and use it, as well as reccomend it as well.

We are all in DIY together!

As for any "Bile' forming, I'll leave that up to all ya all to Police via the methods available here. I've tried to do so myself when such action was not taken by other members elsewhere, and all that did was make it worse.

For my part, other than helping others and posting results, I'll try my very best not to give them any fuel for thier fires.

I've read some of the threads over ther too and people get kind of cranky don't they? ;-) ...anyway, I don' think here you'll get anyone complaining about "marketing" heck, tell us exactly what store you bought stuff from and we'll be happy! I know the ingredients come from Home depot but what about the acrylic mirror? I'm look ing to only do a 6 foot screen(my wife thinks anything bigger is "way too big" ...go figure ;-)....

Hi MM, welcome aboard. When it comes to internet forums, this would undoubtedly be the most amicable I have come across.

Just a quick query, across the pond here I don't think we have access to the specific brand of paint you're using. Is there any way of getting datasheets of the Mud components to see if we can match it up with some local brew?

MM,, I fully concurr too,,, the last two weeks I have been testing different materials

I obtained a sheet of acrylic mirror, but the non reflective second sheet was not frosted enough, giving too soft an image,,, but oh yes it was briter and vibrant,,,

50% Projector + 50% Screen = 100% theatre

I too like oztang want to know how to aquire MUDD,,

I was about to get reflective mylar,, and then get a mylar that was non reflective,,, but earning some money has got in the way,,

I have all the woodwork to build a 16:9 8'x4' screen,, but weighing up wether to do a curved version to remove hotspotting as well as aquire perfect focus image

from downunder,, or across the real big pond..

I was only just reading a post of yours over at avs last night where some other members of that forum were giving you a hard time, no names mentioned sniff sniffahh- choobruceooo excuse me, and thought to myself you should come over here to LL. Must be a telepathic thing.The worst part about it is that the thread was abruptly closed. Welcome aboard.

DJ

Welcome MississippiMan to lumenlab forums. I've been wondering on how to do my wall for my screen so with you on board with the other lumenlab diy'rs to help guide me it'll be a cinch. lol

ps.that is one awesome screen shot.

That screenshot has a serious "wow factor" -- Excellent image, vibrant colour. I'm guessing that the shirt is white, which goes to show what kind of gain the screen is giving. The lighting is exceptionally even with only the barest hint of light loss in the upper left corner. The image is wonderfully clear. as well.

Until now, I had my doubts that this kind of screen was actually doable on a large enough scale.

Doubt gone.

I still want to rebuild my projector, but once that's done, I'll be doing better for my screen than the current flat white painted wall!

Ha yeah, there was some absurd post where his thread got closed because he recommended a spray applicator for laying down paint on the mirror and he got reamed for it being a "business thread". The admin didn't even respond with a coherent argument as to why he was closing the thread. You gotta be kidding me. AVS is a cool forum to browse through but sometimes it's a bit too crazy. Also their color scheme makes my eyes bleed

I've been lurking through your threads for a while MississippiMan and I've never gotten the indication you're in this for personal gain(other than the fun of exploration and helping others out). If that's selfish then, be as selfish as you like.

cheers and welcome to Lumenlab.

-J

Hi MM ! Welcome !

Glad to see you over here a LL. No worry about people getting out of line in this forum... it's not tolerated very well... thank goodness.

Seems to me, anyone willing to share their formula's, methods, and sources for procurement is a very helpful DIY'er. ... and, if you're willing to sell finished screens (for those not interested in making one themselves) all you have to do is post in the "trading post" forum, that's what it's for !

I guess my only question is, "are you going to make a DYI PJ" ? ... as I know probably most of everyone's thoughts are... "how is this screen going to look with my newly created PJ ?" That is a seriously nice pic you posted, but we should all know that we won't get that edge to edge brightness with a DYI PJ utilizing the LF screen; ... or will we ??

gs

MM - if you look at some of the shots that are used here for a benchmark reason, it may help others get an idea of what they can actually achieve. PLUS, you are using a commercial PJ, where are we are not (duh!) and if you could figure out a way to get one to play with your screen (anyone here in your area????) that would DEFINATELY gives us a more objective view of what you have accomplished. Lilu form "5th Element" seems to be the most popular. both her and the Blue haired lady in Zorg's office.
BTW - welcome!! I know you'll find us more personable here than at AVS for sure!


Ricoks

I would mainly be interested in shots from different angles and also with some ambient light

glad your here mississipiman. Yes, the LF screen has got to be the best innovation for DIY screens i've ever seen. I too am curious to see how a properly made LF screen loox with a DIY projector considering the slight unneven lighting ouput, and angle hotspots.

Cool news MM. You're like a home theater superhero, MISSISSIPPI MAN swooping in to help us see the errors of our ways!

Or, at the least, give us some cool insight with your projecting experience

MississippiMan:

Obviously, there are alot of us DIY's that have a bounty of questions to ask of you. I too, read your post's at AVS after reading your intro and I am very much interested to read what you have to offer/advise to all of us here at LumenLab.

In the meantime, welcome aboard .

I agree that there a lot of questions but perhaps MississippiMan can give everyone a rundown of his theory pertaining to the LF screen....what each component accomplishes, etc. I have read many of the posts at AVS myself but a quick summary would be useful here.

Well from what I can gather, a mirror is the most reflective surface available to us, and will reflect any light beam off its surface while keeping its intensity. The MMUD SE he formed(when correctly applied) creates a light transparent film like cover. It is transparent enough for the light to go through and reflect off the mirror, and then reabsorbe the reflected light and fuse it in-between the mirror and the MMUD SE to create gain, which is where the thickness of the mirror/acrlyic is important ( 1/8") and not any thicker. So in summary, mirror reflects the light and the MMUD fuses it in-between the 1/8" space, and gives a more plasma like image. When I did a test run of my own piece, i noticed from upclose that the screen door was greatly reduced. But I haven't done it the right way, which is why we all get hotspots.

anybody wanna try a see thru bedsheet on a piece of mirror?? my projector is down for a while and I won't be able to try it for a week, I'm just curious to see if that gets rid of hotspots.

followed a link to the thread where you showed some angled shots... very very nice!


now if I only had the money and room for a big mirror I have one upstairs now but it is not somethign I would be able to paint over without my wife divorsing me

My findings for the mmud were that I believe our projectors are not bright enough to get through the mud and reflect back. Have you had any luck with very under powered projectors. I would be surprised to have more than 700 or 800 lumens. Do you have any pictures with projectors that are turned down almost 50% if its possible to do so.

Hi, and Welcome,

I'll be following this closely because I've never been too thrilled with my screen though it performs adequately.

I'm curious as to the answer to Foamcows question and would also like to know where one buys the acrylic mirrors.

Thanks for stopping by

Check out the specs on the Z2 that MississippiMan used for the screenshot he posted. I believe that the Z2 is only rated at 800 lumens. I am assuming that the projector is made by Sanyo. Is that right?

This is the exact reason why i mentioned trying to find someone with a PJ that we know here to be of some standard, and have that PJ on one of MM's own screens (to eliminate fault) and see what the results are. Then comare those to what most use here (BO cloth) and have some real comparisons.

anyone is MM's area??? what state are you in MM??

I would guess, Mississippi


or somewhere along the Mississippi

sorry couldnt resist

You can find them on the web with a google search but they are quite expensive. Maybe you can simply buy a thin piece of clear acrylic from home depot and paint one side with chrome spray paint. After all, it doesn't have to be a flawless mirror since you will be painting the other side with MM or such.

He think I remember him saying he lives in Europe??

Did a bit of googling and phone work and a place not to far from my house sells 4 by 8 foot by 1/8" for $120.

I might try this.

Howwwwdddeeee!

Thank all ya all fer the warm welcome!

I was told that there was a deserving community over here at Lumenlab with specific needs as to a Light sensitive DIY screen that would optimize available lumens, yet defer against accentuating specific hot spotting issues while evening out overall light reflection.

The very best thing about all this all is that "tweaking" Light Fusion is easily done.

...as far as when Mirrors are being used, that is.

I have the 'deffinative connection for any size Acrylic Mirrors, and loads of alternative locations. Supply or cost affordability is NOT the issue.

Oh how Droll!

My "new" Painter called and said he was done painting a 24' x 37' HT Room I'm retrofiting.

It sports a 140" diagonal LF screen. I'll be shooting a 1000 lumen DLP onto it (400 Lumens HT Optimized at max.) so adjusting that many lumens from 19' on a 140" diagonal screen - 122' x 69" ) would be somewhat equal to a 250 lumen PJ hitting a 96" x 54" surface..

I gotta go pass muster on the work, pay him, and thank him. He's a New Orleans refugee staying at another of my older customer's house with wife & kids, and I was glad to take a chance and let him have a crack at that big cave of a Home Theater.

It's a 10 minute drive. I'll respond to all these posts in length this evening.

BTW, I DO live in Mississippi, but I'm a displaced Yankee from Indy. 20 years in the south, and I can 'drawl' like a native. 'Ceptin' a native can always still tell I'm a "Yank".

MM, I already have 3mm acrylic mirror,, have read thru your other posts,, but would luv further info on actual application of MMud coating,, as I have a few others who want me to make thier PJ's and grr now they want screens too,, I also now have full access to a CNC bed, to make the cases, now,,

I have redesigned the HAAS case desinged by HAASMAN to suit for a 17" LCD,,

this unit already gives a superb image on BOC, and the tests I have done several combos, show that it will be stunning, with new type screen, and from what I can gleam from all the info so far,, form many sources, seem to indicate your method is by far the most superior to date..

not stroking ego's,, but I hope by this weekend to have full version as per your formula done!!, the evidence is clear from how you have presented it..
Clive...

.............................

I would love to see how this compares to a pice of black out cloth, which can be had at joann's fabrics for very cheap.

I seriously doubt (with no offense) that foamcows pj get 700-800 lumens. Most that have tested with a light meter are seeing between 150 and 250 lumens, which I believe is probably pretty standard.

I would also love to see a comparison of the same shot with the lights on, and with them off, preferably wit a piece of black out cloth on part of the screen to really show a comparison.

Would it be possible to prepare small samples so that everyone could comapare against thier current screen maybe 8"x10" samples. I'd be willing to pay $20 to see how well this works on my projector before having to find the paint and mirror. If its as good as these images I'm sure that if a small demo could be made on their PJs they would move ahead with confidence with the real thing.

.....................................

Back again for a short spell.

Let me address Mirror availablity first.

First off, due to my efforts, the demand from my Dealers, and the upsurge of requests for Acrylic mirrors to the Factory, Bunker Plastics has made me the North American Rep for them as far as "Outsized" Acrylic Mirrors go. (5' x 8' to 6' x 10' - 6' x 8') This fancy title really means that I can order and drop ship mirrors in any size and demension, as well as thickness, to any location in the US. Canadian orders should probably be resitricted to "Power Buys" by at least 4 individuals because of shipping & duties.

Because Bunker is "Bunker", and by being a "Factory Rep." (...there's that durn title again!) they have offered me the use of thier FedEx discount. 70% off "Heavy" Ground Shipping rates. The low rates do mean you have to PU at the FedEx Dock, but what this really means is a savings in money.

To ship a mirror the max size I think most of you will go for, ( 54" x 96" = 107" diagonal -Factory Laser cut to size) ) means it will come off stock that measures 61" x 97". I'm refering to 1/8" (.110) thickness until otherwise stated.
<<< Hold on Waxhead, I'm gettin' ta ya! >>

You must pay for the Mirror according to the original size/price per sq.ft. before cutting.

A 54" x 96" <cut> mirror with a Factory applied Self Adheasive backing costs approx. $ 114.00 To "Pallet" it onto a 6' x 8.5' wooden pallet costs $50.00. FedEx Freight to most US locations will average $80.00

That adds up to $244.00 for a single Mirror, cut to order. This then is why it has become standard for interested parties in the same approximate area to combine efforts, and defray the Freight charges across 4 pocketbooks.

That's only $32.50 each + the Mirror.

The Alternatives.[COLOR=red]

[FONT=Impact]Plaskolite[SIZE=7] has many dealers across the USA and a few in CA (Vancouver, BC - Toronto ) Unfortunately, most outlets are limited to 4' x 8' stock, and although they will special order larger sizes, thier prices are higher and they seldom offer any discounts on freight. Quality isn't as good, (...but you painting the mirror, not shaving by it...) nor is there any Adhesive backing option.

Also, there is GE Polymershapes:
http://www.gepolymershapes.com/pshapes/gep...tlLocations.jsp

This Mfg. was my first source, primarily because I tried them first. But quality control, and the extreme differnce in cost between stock and special order items limited them to becoming a "Convienence" vendor for smaller "stock" sizes. And that was ok, "no freight" but sheesh, even smaller, I'd get a lot of damaged stock.


I say these things because I'm both fortunate and cursed to have been able to do quite a few LFs locally and across the US. So I unfortunately have experienced every bit of the "bad" there is to encounter....several times over. More on this point later.

In the end, anytime and anywhere you can acquire a .110" < 1/8") Acrylic Mirror for under $2.75 sq.ft that at least gives you a smooth, unbroken reflective edge out to the demensions you want.....; go for it. Wavy, distorted mirrors are not disquallified.

In NO way does the amount of reflected image ever manifest itself enough upon return to actually set up a seperate reproduction of the surface image. This has been a popular misconception from the start, feeding "Image Shift" and gross "Defocusing" issues, when there is no issue.

No, it's all about Light.
The Mirror is "scavaging" wasted light that bleeds through the rear surface of a painted coating (...or Wax Paper! ) that it's self alone can reflect back a accurate image. Because the mirror will always attenuate light somewhat, the light is "contrast enhanced" across the grey scale spectrum. This mean more detail as this "shadow" enhancement blends into the surface image. THAT is what make otherwise indistinct detal stand out.

The recent addition of Silver Metallic into the MMud Top Coat in varing amounts has open up the vault holding the TWEAK MONSTER! All so of good things have occured.

First off, thinner top coat applications can still effect the necessary "opaqueness" at the surface to reflect back an admirable image in and of itself. But even tough this surface is slightly "greyer", it's thinness still allows the amount of light through that is necessary to create Light Fusion

Secondly, that aspect can be / is infinately variable. Once a person has reached the point where graphics lose the Halo effect, then what has happened is that a balance between surface reflectivity and rear illumination due to absobtion & reflection has been reached.

This balance point is actually, in my opinion based on experience, far more tricky to reach with a Pure White mix like the original MMud. It's 2-3 times easier, << For The Newbie >> to do now, let alone someone with a good DIY work ethic.

And that is, will always be the key.

I read one post where one enthusiastic individual wanted hiself fusioned by Saturday. Several have already sourced a few mirrors. GREAT. Now step back, and wait to reveiw essential tips on spray application, distance, gun settings, dillution, not a bunch, but all essential to acheive the viewable results and the Lights On finish that is possible.

I'm enthused about the lack of lumens, not intimidated.

And trust me gentlemen, and ladies. I'm not going about with blinders on. I'm in chahoots with at least two individuals who are trying to lick the "oil based" alternatives. Keep in mind, what we want is the thinnest, yet most "surface" opaque coating you can affordably put on the mirror. Some specific additives to MMud may be coming soon. Hopefully. Don't defray action on my "maybes".

OK,

A discription of MMud :

Typical 3 quart Mix; All are acrylic latex

1 qt. Behr Ultra Pure White Exterior or Interior
1 qt. Behr Deep Base 1300
1 qt. Behr White Opal Pearlesence (Premium Plus With Style "Faux Paint" )
16 to 24 oz Filtered or Distilled water, depending on applicator.

Behr Silver Metallic (Premium Plus With Style "Faux Paint" )

Between 1 to 4 oz per 3 quarts MMud, depending on PJ's lumen and CR specifications

I'm going to post up quite a bit of pictorial photos. I'll provide AVI. movies to those capable and desirous of see just how fast and in what manner the MMud goes on.
( avg. file size 4.2 megs )

I must do this in spurts, for I'm endeavoring to start anew for all ya all. Certainly there is a weath of previously posted info, much in my verbose style, to be linked to if such was desirable.

But there are also too many "distractions", especially for the uninitated but interested lurker/newbie. Here in "real time" those seeking specific answers will receive them as best as I possibly can keep up. Forum veterans who have knowledge of specific threads or posts elseware that can prove of assistance...., well, let's just say that my posts will be shorter, if not condensed.

Oh yeah,

The question wa put forth...; can 1/4' Mirror, Glass or Plastic, be used?

Yes. I cannot say yet anything deffinate about 1/4" with MMud-SE....,

But the pic below is a 107" x 60" 1/4" Acrylic Mirror, and the PJ, once again....a Z2

You can see the amount of reflected light from the screen in the glow on the surrounding surfaces. This statement got the Hair UP on AVS when it was made before; "It looks like a Plasma, NOT a projected image"



This is a almost 1 1/2 year old screen. Maui Built ...if you will.

With normal MMud, to using 1/4" mirror stock to match up with a truly dim light source, I would say no. 1/8" yes

With MMud-SE? Yes, within remotely sensible size and luminosity limitations

............................

MM, I have read your info about mixtures etc,,

I have to try and find the equivalants here in OZ,, but can you tell me what prep you do to the acrylic mirror before spraying MMud-SE,, also any technique tips would be very helpful too..

the person who supplied my sheet, said that it can cleaned with metho, to prepare surface,,

with the cost of sheet, I dont want to have to reinvent the wheel, so to say

I want to get it absolutely right first time around

Great to see you over here MM!

I've been researching various high contrast screen ideas for a month or so now, and have tried to wade through AVS, but, well, you know...

Two things I'm wondering:

A) possibilities of an applied film for the front surface, for the HVLP challenged, and

2) mirror sources/options for 2.35 native screens--say in the neighborhood of 5 x 12 feet. Does your supplier go that big?

That pic is hands down the best I ever saw. EVER! But I don't have time at the moment to read the whole post. Was that a screen you made or is that a professional commercial material of some kind? Were you using a lumenlab or commercial projector?

Its a commercial Z2, that is projecting on a screen that he made.

Im personally awaiting to see some results with a LL projector. Im curious if it will hinder or aid the slightly dim corners/sides we have.

Interesting subject no less, and one that im completly ignorant about.

Hi Missisippi Man, welcome... Quick question.. I read in another post that you had "cloned goo". I'd love to try the whole process with the mirror, but I'm afraid in my situation, where I have 2 active young boys who like to play sports in the house, that the mirror would quickly become broken/scratched/beat up. I would be interested in just trying the "cloned goo" painted on the wall though. Would this alone be worth the effort? Also it the same formula that you posted earlier in this post, just not applied to a mirror? Sorry if I missed the answer through my reading.

Thanks - your posts are quite interesting
the_big_show

I don't think painting on the wall would work, I think the idea is that the mirror captures and redistributes the light. The mirror that is recommended in Acrylic so breakage isn't really a problem.

[/quote]
I don;'t think painting on the wall would work, I think the idea is that the mirror captures and redistributes the light. The mirror that is recommended in Acrylic so breakage isn't really a problem.

[/quote]

Ya, I know about the mirror, but the screen goo is just painted on a regular surface.. I'm wondering if I can use his recipe for screen goo to enhance my picture without the use of the mirror..

the_big_show

Whats up MM very nice picture, no let me rephrase that nice screen

Yes that is the best picture I have seen on LL but we must keep in mind the Sanyo PLV-Z2 is one of the best commercial projectors you can buy spec include res:WXGA 1280x720, 800 ANSI Lumens 1300:1 contrast also with a DVI output that picture is suppose to LOOK good, but it will be interesting if MM light fusion srceen can help our 200 maybe 300 lumen projector.

So MM did you buy the guide to show use that light fusion is possible for a reasonable price or do you plan on showing use how your screen would look with an LL projector ,with the light fusion screen you have made I'm guessing that you have a commercial projector so do you plan on building one or do you know someone with an DIY projector so you can show use how the image looks.

RR

Sorry if this comes out like a plug but has anybody done any experimenting with goo systems? I tried a search and came up empty so I ordered myself some test sheets: crt white, greylight and grey.

Big Show,

There is a very easy way to get the absolute most reflection possible with a Painted wall without Hot Spotting.

First, be sure the wall is as flat & featureless as possible. Apply a Fine Grit Sanding sponge (dry) to the surface to receive the paint. Sand lightly until nicely smoothed.

Now apply, via Roller (3/8" Nap - Good quality) two coats of Behr Ultra Pure White "Gloss" .

Let dry completly.

Now apply a 3 quart, 1:1:1 MMud-SE Mix with 1 or at most 2 oz. Behr Silver Metallic Faux paint added, throughly mixed with a Squirrel Cage "Drill" mixer. Rolling? Add 16 Oz distilled water and mix also. Spraying? add 24 Oz

Rolling will work if you practice the art of "Dry Rolling" where you load the roller, then using a spare piece of something, roll out several strokes BEFORE you hit the Screen wall. This helps prevent roller marks.

Apply just enough MMud-SE to effect a coverage that just barely eliminates the "Gloss" from sight. The screen should look "Flat" but with a faint glow that comes from the paint being translucent so as to show "depth" (think 'a multi layer Car Finish) yet "Flat" enough to avoid highlighting any areas that exhibit excessive luminosity.

Just like that G_ _ stuff, the Gloss acts like a reflective base Coat, and the MMud-SE both sets up the initial image and lets enough light through to make the Gloss "Shine" but controllably so.

This particular application is something CRT owners really enjoyutilize, and thos PJs are fairly close to your DIY units in Lumens. At least the affordable ones.

I went from that to applying pure Silver Metallic as a Base, then MMud as a Top Coat, covering the SM until when staring at the screen, you only 'think' you can see the faintest trace of the SM. The key word is "Think".

But this app was originally intended to drastically boost the CR of a light cannon, the PLV-70. No problems there, punching light through to the SM, and the SM deeping CR as a result.

I'm waisting your reading time if I go on about a app that need more lumens than anything in your stables.

But it was SM/MM that started me down the "Fusion" road.

Here are 3 yr old pics of a "Painted Wall" SM/MM Screen. Forgive me..., I'm waxing
nostolgic.

These Pics are also of a Z2 PJ




This pic was taken with a bare 100 watt bulb only 6 feet from the side of the screen





And how about the eveness of lumination out to the edges? Even at a severe angle of 170 degrees?




Ok enough. All of the above are simply to prove that yes, there is a way to do what most consider next to impossible. Use every little bit of light available, but use it ONLY to your advantage.

I'm reasonably certain that there is no DIY PJ you guys have that is so dim that a specific application, be it 'sprayed' Fusion or Rolled MMud, cannot give you as much performance as inhumanly possible. On a budget.


.....that being the following photo where GOO CRT White is matched directly against SM/MM.




MMud-SE is on the Right . There can be no mistaking the CR boost, or the enrichening of the color pallet. Note the Skin hue on Maximus's left cheek w/SM/MM compared to the CRT/W Goo. The Goo's shot seems to show more detail because of the "lighter Greys and Blacks", but the image isn't nearly as pleasing to look at.

Now OK, that comparison was wieghted toward the SM/MM screen primarily because the SM/MM screen was/is designed to boost CR and enliven, not crush colors. The CRT/W is mearly a good, reference white .(I should know..., it was MMud's inspiration.) so it could not help to be shown up. But by "showing" the difference using the same image and PJ but different screens, the end result is an unmistakingly convincing argument for trying anything/everything imaginable to boost CR and optimize reflectivity.

All you all jus name yer poison. State what you want to acheive. Don't aspire to a Screen app that requires excessive light like Pure SM/MM just because the pics are so tasty, 'cause I'm just using these screenies to show the validity of the concept to help show ya all that with MMud-SE over Gloss White, or over a very slightly "SM'd" Gloss base coat, we/you can come close to acheiving the very best possible "paint your wall" application for the dollars spent. Light Control will only make the entire secenario all the more easily accomodated.

SM/MM can getcha goin'...., while Light Fusion will getcha "glowin". Get "fused" if you really want one of the the best DIY apps, or simply get "SE- MMuddied" on the flat surface of your choice for a "next best" option.. But rest assured, if any of you need something that falls outside one of my applications, I'll relate that to ya all as well with no bias.

It's just that it's so durn hard to find sucha thin.

Red Nose Ragin Reindeer,

I bought the Guide so as to be able to post, to offer my applications and help where requested, and fer shur, to see if what was being offered might help make a group of deserving DIY'ers of the "Umpteenth Degree' realize results commensurate to the effort they've already spent creating something else just a special in it's own right.

Through it all, I'm hoping that one or more of you soon might try one or another of my DIY screen creations. That will be how we/all ya all will really start to sit up and make MMud pies.

MM I for one would like to thank you for your post it has encourage me to try if not your light fusion screen the painted wall mixture, if I was to go with the fusion screen would I be able to purchase the 8'x6' rs acrylic mirror through you.

Look earlier in the post. He says that he is a distributor for a mirror company.