I have the plan for the Rockler design. It can be implemented with two sheets of MDF ($19.95 ea), but the extruded aluminum components have to come from Rockler ($300).

Instead I'm going to be using CNC router techniques ie two 10' lengths of 1 1/4 rigid conduit ($20.00 ea), 22mm OD, 8mm ID skate bearings ($23 gets you 100! on Ebay), 1.25" Aluminum angle (about $10 for 2'), assorted nuts, bolts, Glue, etc. (conservatively another $20). Lets say $150 when everything is said and done.

I have a router, table saw, circular saw, combination miter, drill press, etc for tools. Going to build this over the next couple of weeks.

I plan to follow Joe's advice for building a CNC Routier ie work from the tool out. First, I plan to machine the mounting plates for the circular saw and router. I have a Bosch 1658 7.25" circular saw and a Freud FT2000 router. I expect the mounting plates to be about 12" square and to build them up out of .25" poplar underlayment. I want the plates square so that I can mount the saw in either a vertical alignment for cross cutting or horizantal alignment for ripping. The goal will be to have the saw positioned as squarely in the plate as possible to ensure the minimum kerf. I don't expect the router to be quite the challenge because the hole pattern for the mounting plate is aligned corner to corner with the center of the motor shaft. Pictures will follow.

Joe can you move this discussion to a dedicated thread?

Done, we can have some input now on this subject.

Joe

Am very interested in the panel saw design you come up with. How's it going?

I am also interested in building a panel saw. Are the rockler plans any good?

Awsome Web Page

Panel Saw Plans

Read through this and see what you think... I'm just now getting all of the software needed to open up the drawings. But so-far it sounds pretty well thought out!

Here is what i am using in my Z Axis in my new CNC Machine i'm building now.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...ndpost&p=108020

It can be easily adapted by making it wider and longer to accomidate a Saw on a plate and placed with two vertical rails, Then make a top and bottom Plate with same equal spacing so everything lines up, then all you have to do is make sure it is square with main structure.



Joe

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/panel_saw/

This weekend I took the plunge and started the panel saw, it is a hybrid of Joes Z-axis and the webpage he posted... plus a little of my own flavor due to parts availability. I have most all of the pieces cut and in place, and the slide is working flawlessly. I will add some pics tomorrow (I forgot to take the camera with me to the Wood Shop - on base)

Cool, like to see what ya got. and details.

Joe

I started out laminating 3 pieces of 3/4" plywood together for the top and bottom mounts for the rails. I then cut the mounting blocks down to an identical size and match-drilled out the 1.5" holes for my rails. This provided me the ability to trust that I'm getting a good grip on the pipes and exact parallel spacing (I was hoping to avoid the difficult task of making the adjustable blocks that are used on the cnc rigs). I am using a three-part sled design where the center component - where the saw mounts - is square so that it can be rotated 90 degrees for ripping as well as cross-cutting. To mount the bearings I built a couple of jigs to help me keep good alignment as i drilled and tapped the 1"x1"x1/4" angle iron to receive the mounted bearings i bought from a local liquidation place (aka indoor junk-yard). Then the U-bolts with skateboard bearings and vinal tubing hook around the back-side and provide an amazingly solid grip on the pipe.

Supplies:
My rails are .085 walled 1.5" steel 6' 1" long. $21
my bearing mounts are 1" x 1" 1/4"t x18" long steel angle iron $5
the bearings are an oddity I found in the junkyard... high precision rollers mounted to a shaft with 3/8 - 24 threading paid $8
The bottom track that will hold the workpiece in place is 2" x 2" 3/16t 10' long steel angle iron ~$15
I am using about 2' x 4' of 3/4" hardwood plywood ~$7
also 1 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" MDF for the backsupport and long pieces ~$20
saw - 15amp craftsman circular saw ~$75
blade - freud diablo 40t circular saw blade $12 (amazon.com )

under $175... not too bad if it gets the tolarances I want

some pics... I havn't finished quite yet need one more solid day of work

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this is a picture of the overall layout of the bearings, the rails and the mounting plate between them

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here is a pic of the top mounting block and the rails. The bottom block is identical except after I drilled the holes I glued the support brackets to take the weight of the rails and transfer it into the back mounting plate.

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this is a better shot of the bottom mounting plate and the supports for the rails.

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close up of the bearings - the design is stolen completely from Joe

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rough idea of how the saw will look when It gets mounted (using the four holes i drilled into the corners of the skid plate) also I realize the saw is backwards in this pic... it was just for size verification... very little calculation was done beforehand and I wanted to make sure everything was big enough to still work - it was .

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THis is a close up of one of the two guide-blocks/jigs used to make the drilled/tapped holes in the angle iron relatively accurate. I wanted to only use one, but in the drilling the shards of steel chewed the hole about 1/8" larger than when it started so they were only a one-time-use type of guide and I had to make another... not ideal but ok.

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another closeup of the bearings

at the end of the day sunday I clampped the center plate (where the saw goes) tot he bearing slides and confirmend that everything slid as it should and that there was no play or binding... I am amazed at how simple and solid this system is! The wood-shop is closed on Mon and Tue (hence the delay in the pictures) and I am really looking foward to getting back there and finishing up. I'll keep you all posted.

I have been collecting information, supplies and parts for building a panel saw for a couple of years now and it looks like you have done a very good job on yours. I have found the designs keep changing and getting better and easier to build. The caridge bearings you have used are by far the most substantial and easiest I have seen yet. So far I have seen several designs that are all good in their own way and I plan on using the best parts of the designs that will work for my needs. Right now I am working on a plan that I can mount on the side of my utility trailer to take to the job quickly and easily. With the saw removed it needs to be semi-weather-proof. The saying in MO is it can rain in 5 min and only last 10 so you can't plan on staying dry. I plan on using mostly aluminum for the frame and steel only were needed.

Again Good Job
Chris Bailey

This month's shop notes has plans in it for a panel saw.

So the long awaited final pic of the working functional version... I actually finished up in Aug. but it took me until now to get it posted.

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Looks very good, what did you use to lock the saw in the upper area, when sliding material into the bed?

joe

I'm at work now - otherwise I would post a pic - but the whole sled assembly is counterweighted through a pulley at the top to a patio brick that dangles behind. So gravity in a sense holds it up without need for a lock. When I rip (future capability) I will need a lock.

Anymore pics

yea sorry about that, right now I'm working a swing shift 6pm-6am playing Air Force games that leave me pretty spent. I'm off tomorrow so I'll try to post some more then... maybe even a video.

here you go

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It is working great, the only gripe I have is the build up of crud that I get on the bearings and guides that makes the slide too resistive and difficult to move. If I make the dust collector this should be fixed... other than that I do not see a good solution.


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if you all have any good ideas to reduce this problem I'm all ears. cleaning and greasing every other time I use the saw gets old

make a vacuum attachment for the saw, or make a cover for the bearings that has a small broom attached so it can sweep away the dust before it gets caught in the grease

are you lubing the bearings? (looks like it from the residue) if so switch to a "dri film lube" the have either teflon or lithium grease in them. I use the dri film on my commercial duty panel saw rails it doesn't attract dust like wd-40 or other light body oils.

thanks I'll look into getting some of that. Will a dry lube prevent the steel in the rails from rusting? That was my main reason for oiling the rails

it does help in preventing rust, there is also a product called top coat made to apply to tablesaw surfaces to prevent rust, you can get that at a woodworker supply store.

Heres another layout for onee I came across.. Its pretty much just a straight edge, but could work for someone with limited space as well.. Just let it hang on the wall when not in use

I like that concept.

Joe

simple and clean, an elegant design. sometimes that works best