...everything, so it was already time to start building!

Here are a few shots of the wood already cut. I'm using this type of slim wood, very strong and almost no weights. Been doing this with the help of a friend, at his house, using his father tools and drinking his beer, thank you dude!

Current employed time: around 4h

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These are cut beams. Each piece weights around 15 kg (Good weight for glueing wood, I swear).

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I've advanced my box a little more, but did not take photos, will do in the next days.

Current employed time: 12h

Here are some photos of the SOARE reflector from IKEA and the light-box for keeping the wood box cooler. I've taken some ideas from the forum, thank you all!

Got the aluminium from them, marked the pieces, then they cut them and soldered as I told, here is the result, I like it. I had to make the hole for fitting the bulb with a dremmel, aluminium is much harder to cut than I could have ever thought.

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Great mirror finish, see the hole reflected.
I took it to polish to the same place where I got the light box cut and soldered.

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Nicely leveled, time to glue it using a cold soldering paste.

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Here is the backside, already glued.

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I've worked several hours on it on the last two days, I'm eager to finish, but I'm arriving to the worst point, placing everything centered, I can already hear the drums of war...

Current employed time: 23h

Here's a new pict, from this afternoon work. It's rough right now, can't wait to finish the inside, so I can work a little on the outside and give it some sex-appeal, before someone confuses it for coffin for cats or something worst

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looking good

what lcd are going to use?

It looks as if the lamp will not set close enough to the ikea bowl to properly get the correct focus. This is just an observation , I'm not there to measure it. lol,
Great job so far.

A Benq 557s, it's like 3 years old, the one that has been innocently sitting on my desk, until I dismembered it, HAH HHHHAHHHAHH hhahh...

Yeah there's room enough, I read somewhere in the forum that the lamp has to be 6.4cm away from the Soare bottom. There where you see it, the light box is 15cm deep, and the hole quite long, centered on those 6'4cm.

Due to the way I've constructed the box, there's little room for a "normal" fitting of the boards, so I've build a cable to separate the controller board from the power supply. The last one being the one that bothered me.

Current employed time: 28h

Here are two shots:

This is the way the two boards go connected. And the parts used to make the cable.



Here you can see the cable already build and both boards connected.

Employed time building the box: 39h
Current employed time wiring and painting: 11h

Here are two pics from its current state. I'm currently wiring everything, I'm enjoying this step. Tomorrow I'll finish wiring and will start placing the lenses and everything else.

General view of the inside, already painted black, power supply board and TFT front panel fixed, and some wiring on the back.

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View from the back, here everything is already at place. General switch to allow the fan to continue blowing air while the TFT and lamp are off, and start/stop pulsers, these only control the TFT and lamp, not the fan.

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Employed time building the box: 39h
Current employed time wiring and painting: 21h

I've a problem with not getting images on the panel. Here's the topic,

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7368

if somebody has any idea, please help.

Thank you!!!

Yep, why did you use a cable to connect the VGA connector to the front part? that would degrade the signal's quality (using 2 cables).

It's the cable that comes with the monitor itself. And I didn't want to have fixed cables hanging from the box, just input connections.

BEWARE if you make a cable extension. I made the mistake of not checking if the pins where correctly mirrored and fried my controller board!
Now I'm after buying a spare one.

Here is the new cable. This time pins are correctly mirrored.

Only pin 8 is not correctly mirrored, but it's not a problem since it's a ground pin.
This time, I used a 14 pins connector on one end and a 16 pin on the other. I removed 2 of its pins and connected the 'e' cable to the '8' pin, so I could have the red cable connected to the same pin on both ends.

Pins are distributed like this:

..1234567
89abcde

If you try to use two equal ends, pins won't be correctly mirrored.


Pics.

Here is the new cable. This time pins are correctly mirrored.

Only pin 8 is not correctly mirrored, but it's not a problem since it's a ground pin.
This time, I used a 14 pins connector on one end and a 16 pin on the other. I removed 2 of its pins (1st pic, there is one missing to the right, which I replaced prior to making the cable) and connected the 'e' cable to the '8' pin (2nd pic), so I could have the red cable connected to the same pin on both ends.

Pins are distributed like this:

..1234567
89abcde

If you try to use two equal ends, pins won't be correctly mirrored.


Pics.

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Detail from the flashing for the video cable. I used the metal sheet from behind the panel, cut it into pieces.

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Meanwhile I'm trying to find a new controller board, I've been having some fun with the lenses.

For the first shot I got the idea from FatScreen's plog. Sorry to say it, but my head is bigger than yours FatScreen

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Here you can see what 30secs of concentred sun on one small point can do. The hole on the right was already there before starting, the other two not.

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Yesterday I received the boards that Ilyo sent me, power supply and controller boards replacements. Will mount them in a few hours, and see what happens.

The ball is rolling again, yes, yes, yes!

did it work ?