So here's what I got with the kit:

Click to view attachment

And here's the guide I'm working off of:

Click to view attachment

Since the Power Switch and DPST Switch are combined with the kit I have, I'm assuming the fuse goes "after" the power switch.

The way the guide has it, the live(black) wire goes directly to the fuse and then from the fuse to the switch.. But the input for the power cord and the DPST switch are combined..

Where the heck does the fuse go??

Also, in this post, Deathray64 mentions a sodering iron.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...848&#entry66848

Do I need one for this kit? That was never mentioned.. Can I get away with crimping somehow??


thanks!

-J

Here is how I understand it (as I haven't actually done this yet).

When you say "fuse" in your post, I'm assuming you mean the circuit breaker, which is different from a fuse but serves basically the same purpose as one.

Those "2 little crimping dudes" can be attached directly to the breaker (the light blue things I drew in the diagram) and you can run wires directly into them so you won't have to worry about any soldering.

I used red for the color of the hot wire so it would be easier to see. You'll have one wire directly from the plug go into one end of the breaker, and, if you're following that diagram exactly, you'll have two coming out, just like I drew it.

I would wait for someone else to verify what I have said, since I am not an expert, but I'm 99% sure I'm correct. Good luck.

EDIT: Actually, now that I'm looking at it, I think I have the hot wire running from the wrong part of the plug. It should come from the other side, not where I have it now. Also, the bottom-most wire would be for the ground wire. Again, make sure someone else verifies what I've said before you jump in.

Hey Poops, thanks for the reply. The problem I'm having is that the DPST Switch and the incoming Power are the same thing(see the pic below). Per the notes on the Lumenlab store page, it is:

A power entry module with an integrated DPST that can be modified to use with auto-shutdown schematics.


Click to view attachment

Any ideas folks?

thanks!

-J

Oh, sorry, I didn't understand your original question.

Well, you could do one of two things. You could get another switch and that would make things exactly like that wiring diagram, except you would have an extra switch, which would be kind of redundant but wouldn't really matter.

The other thing you could do is have three wires coming out of the breaker, one to the LCD, one to the ballast, and one to the thermostat, which then goes to your fans. I believe this would work.

Actually, I really don't understand why the wire to the LCD in that diagram is not a part of the switch. Having it like it is in the diagram, you would have to push the power button on the LCD control board to turn it on and flip the switch to turn on the ballast/bulb and the fans. Now, I realize that is only two steps, but by putting the LCD on the switch, you could do it all by just flipping the switch.

The only potential problem with that is, I think, that not all monitors turn on automatically when power is first introduced to them. I believe the CMV CT-520D (what I have, but it's in hibernation right now) does turn on automatically when the switch is flipped (can someone else verify this?), however.

I hope this makes sense. Again, I cannot stress enough that I am not an expert and have actually never really done any wiring once in my life, but that will change shortly once I have the funds to buy the stuff from the LumenLab.com store. I already have my LCD stripped and my box planned.

Good luck.

Thanks for posting a pic of the back of the power entry. Now I know what we're dealing with here. I will post a method for modifying this kit to work with the diagram. I will post it in the "helpful wiring diagrams" thread shortly and will come back here and link to it once it is posted. Stay tuned.

Here it is.
I hope that you find it useful.

Actually, I really don't understand why the wire to the LCD in that diagram is not a part of the switch....

The circled 1,2 and 3 are different configurations for wiring the lcd hot McGee. :-)

Surely it would be better to give the LCD & lamp on their own 5A circuit breaker/fuse separate from the fan(s) PSU? that way if the LCD+lamp circuit breaker/fuse blows the fan(s) keep going to cool everything down.

If the circuit breaker trips in your current plan, everything will switch off and the LCD+bulb won't be cooled down by the fan(s), it may be best to add another circuit breaker/fuse just for the fan(s) PSU.

Hello,

Would anyone have available a wiring diagram using 220 volts AC and 50 Freq/Hz with the simple 15" LLP?

I don't know anything about wiring & electricty for that matter, so I will try to find a friend here that does, but in the mean time I would like to learn all that I can.

I would hate to start a fire or barbecue myself

thnx

Deathray, that's exactly what I need. Thanks!

Thanks to everyone else for their thoughts/comments. I may actually get this thing wired tonight!

-J

What the hell? I got a different switch...

What kind of switch did you get? Does it have the same functionality? I'm sure if you post a pic that Deathray or someone will try and help you out.

cheers,

-J

Tony88, you may want to check the helpful wiring diagrams thread and maybe post there:

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5341

cheers,

-J

Hi, this is what I'm talking about.

Front:

If anyone could make a diagram or something for this version of the switch, that would be most helpful.

Back:

WARNING - CONJECTURE ALERT

Waterfowl, I'm going to hazard a guess and say that you are in the same boat as mine except the terminals are oriented differently. I think regardless you need to remove those jumpers that are currently connecting the live and neutral posts to those connecters. But I think that your posts are sideways from mine..

So if you twist your piece clockwise 90 degrees as per this picture:

Click to view attachment

Then you should be able to follow the diagram per the diagram that Deathray posted here:

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...727&#entry70727

But that's just me working that out based on what I have...

You might wanna wait until Deathray responds...


cheers,

-J

Yeah you got it maler23, it's identical functionally, just turned on its side. The outputs to your ballast and fan(s) are on the two spades on top of the switch.

I need to add that if you are using this switch (or any DPST switch), it is strongly recommended that you buy a fan thermostat to keep the fan on for a while after shutdown.

Hey Deathray, so for the set up that I have, I'm assuming I need a soldering iron to connect the live and neutral connections on the switch. I broke off those little jumpers that were connected to the terminals:

Click to view attachment

thanks!

-J

Yup, solder away.

We have to solder? (Rhetorical question..)

I guess so. I see no other way after removing those jumpers. I *suppose* you could just pry the jumpers loose of the posts they are attached to and leave them sticking out. Then you could just use some little crimping dudes on there. But that leaves exposed metal in that case.

Considering that this kit is supposed to make wiring easier, I don't understand why Lumenlab shipped this type of integrated switch. Or at the very least didn't include some type of instructions..

Maybe i'll drop Lumenlab a line to let them know there is some confusion being created here. They should explain what extra accessories are necessary because right now it's being sold as an easy plug and play kit..

Or maybe Deathray has a direct line to the higher-ups..

But for now, it just means another trip to Home Depot for a soldering iron.. I suppose i should be grateful this is forcing me to learn new skills..


cheers,

-J

I'm in the beginning building/planning stages of mine and in my plan I don't have a fuse/circuit breaker for the fans, I will have them on a seperate switch and let them go. That way I can have the fans running before and after I fire up the bulb without having to create a thermostat.

Here's what I did, I bent the pins upward like the other ones.

That's the way I prefer to look at it.


Great, I'm glad that worked out well for you... I thought about suggesting that but was worried that the spades might break off. I wonder which one is currently being sold? I would guess that it is the one that you have WaterFowl as it seems easier to modify.

Here's a little diagram I did to help understand it better for my version of the switch. It's not as fancy as deathray's but useful. This is after you removed the jumpers and bent them upwards like the rest of the pins.

I wonder about the diagram as well. In the guide it said simple wiring, I can do simple wiring but I haven't really seen anything simple about it. I have asked alot of questions and everyone here has helped but it said on the sales page for the guide that there would be updates as they happened but I haven't seen any updates about the wiring even though now there are alot of different things being sold in the store with not much explanation. What needs to be done is a basic wirining diagram with easy to understand steps with everything labled for exactly what it is. I know alot of people here making the diagrams are really trying to help and get frustarted when the rest of us don't understand but not all of us know a thing about wiring. What may make sense to those who know wiring is basic jiberish to some of us. Half the stuff in the pics I don't even know what they are. I can do it if I have a simple, explained, step by step guide of what to do meaning if the 120 in is a cut off extension cord tell me thats what it is, don't expect me to KNOW. I bought everything from LL expecting to be able to put it together and I have the box built (hass style), I have the fans wired and running to the 12v adapter but nothing else because I cant make sense of all the wiring diagrams on here. Just my 2 cents.

Well the diagrams are basically where the wires go. If you got my version of the LL switch, you can break off the jumpers and bend the pins up. Then you just take your stripped wires and connect them to the pins by using quick disconnects. The 2 included with the kit are for the circuit breaker. I hope that's easy enough instructions.

It is very difficult to make a one size fits all diagram as everyone wants to do something different and has different components. The diagram that I drew was as simple as I know how to make it and it was drawn before I knew how the Lumenlab kit was configured.

The part about the 120 in cut off extention cord which you referred is drawn as conscisely as possible. It shows a cord plugged into a socket with wires coming out the other end... it can't be any simpler than that. If you want to cut off an extention cord or an old PC cord or use the Lumenlab power entry it is up to you. I have shown how to change the diagram to work with the Lumenlab kit but you need to know what's going on to make the change.

As is stated at the beginning you need a basic understanding of wiring to be able to do this, however it is not difficult to learn how to do it. First use 18-14ga wire for your AC hookups (bigger will work fine but is overkill). Then understand that all you are doing is distributing power to various devices(loads[fans, ballast, monitor ect.]) and returning it back through the white wires which all end up being connected together eventually. You will have an occasional switch of some type that will turn the device off/on. Really that's all there is to it.

If you had an understanding of what was happening with the diagram, then you should be able to apply that understanding to be able to adapt to your circumstances. As I have stated before; If you study the diagram that I have posted and follow the path of power you should be able to begin to understand what is going on there. Take one component at a time and trace the circuit through. This diagram is VERY simple and I do not see a way to make it more so... If I were to post the wiring diagram for my projector, it would melt your brain.

You must have patience and study.

Wouldn't this work? This way you wouldn't have to cut/bend/solder any jumpers...

Well, it would work but your fans will shut off right when you shut down the lamp. This is not recommended. The reason for using a DPST switch is so that you can isolate the fan circuit from the lamp circuit and have the fans stay on after shutdown until the thermostat bridge shuts it off.

If you aren't going to use a thermostat, you should not use a DPST switch, rather you should use two SPST switches with the interlock wiring setup in the guide.

Where can one get a DPST other than LL? I went to Radioshack but they did not carry DPST rocker switches.

Here is a little better picture of that switch. The one I got from LL had the jumpers soldered onto the posts. I plan to heat them up and pull the wire back off, then bend the posts up like what was mentioned before.