Hi.

Brain ? Anyone ?

After the Fresnel problem solved and gathering the last pieces I just started my projector project and am testing all circuitry and electrical stuff (see PLOG).

I just plugged the Ushio bulb with the eballast and nothing happens. I left it turned on for sequences of 1 min, 2 min, 5 min and 10 minutes. Nothing.

Using a multimeter, what is the voltage I should read at the light (out of the eballast) ??? I believe I'm getting <4V unlikely to work, eh?


Brain, what's the problem with the eballast and what do I have to do to replace it if it's faulty?

Help !

Thanks.

Im not certain if you can do an open circuit voltage test, because Im almost certain the E-ballast need to see a load in order to output a voltage.

Try plugging your bulb back in, and measuring the voltage again.

Also did you measure in the right mode AC/DC??

My open circuit voltages on my m59 Coil ballast is about 275V-AC ..... The output of the E=ballast should be a considerably signifigant voltage level.

If the bulb is faulty to the point where its open, then having it in the mogul will be the same as Not having a bulb there at all ......

If you check voltages with the bulb in, and still read nothing, then I would suggest going to Home Depot, and picking up one of the Giant Phillips 400W MH bulbs and using that to test your ballast, If it works, then you know the USHIO is faulty.... if it doesnt ballast is faulty ..... You can then return the bulb back to Home Depot.

One last thing, Make sure the center prong inside the mogul is bent up enough to make contact with the bulb when you insert it .... Its a commonly overlooked mistake ....

Don't use a multimeter to check your E-Ballast. Try making sure you have good connections throughout. Check the center prong in the mogul as suggested, and make sure the bulb is seated well. Try screwing and unscrewing to clean up and make a good connection in the mogul. E-Ballasts won't fire if the load isn't correct.

Hi -

Thanks for the suggestions. Will try and let you know.


CBY

It is not recomended to use a mulitmeter to check an eballast. It is capable of a high voltege pulse that can be dangerous to you or your meter. You can check the output voltage of a pulse start coil ballast but you have to remove the ignitor first. You cannot do this with an eballast.

The other suggestion about the mogul socket is the ticket and will probably fix your problem.

Odd, I measure high voltage devices that have spikes when potential energy is discharged (large capacitor banks, when changing PF) ..... I do it all the time ....... I make sure im completly safe.

While the voltage can spike upwards to 30kV commonly, and as high as 50kV, it will only be for a fraction of a second, usually much too fast to damage a decent meter. Of course I use a $200 Fluke ..... Cheapo meters could be a different story

If that voltage where to maintain beyound a spike ( less than mS region), then yeah ..... Bye bye meter .... but if tha voltage lasts long enough to pop the meter, its gonna damage the wire/bulb/ and several other things ....

Oh well ... nuff ramble .... your right ... prolly not a good idea when someone doesnt have experience ......

What exactly do you mean ? I've tried screwing it in. It does touch.

I ordered 3 sets (2 for my friends) of Ushio + eballast. I'll try again but I'm really not confident. One of my friends tested already and got it on in an instant...

Oh well... we'll see

I also use a Fluke.

hmm I've turned on my proj (eballast, Ushio) about 6 times, it turned on first time no problem, second time about 10 seconds, third - no luck left it 2 minutes, fourth - 3 minutes to turn on, fith - no luck at 3 minutes, clean ozidized bottom of bulb and bent prong up, yesterday it turned on in 15 seconds. For me it's all over the place but I'll see if the lastest stuff will help.

Gee, I got a Fluke too. Anyway, I've had the same problems myself. E-ballasts are pretty similar to the Switch Mode Power Supply in your computer. On most you must have a load for it to fire. They aren't nearly as forgiving as a constant wattage ballast when it comes to bad connections and lamp conditions. I get the same intermittent problems with my Icecap ballast. It's come down to a bad connection at the lamp everytime. Maybe it's about time we started using Cool-Amp or Conducto-Lube. I had to dig through some Electronics Now magazines to find the name of it.

Funny thing (not) - I tried again to show my friend and looked like an ass - it worked the first time. NOTHING CHANGED. Now it works. Go figure. This is weird.

The good thing is it works - for how long ??????

You could be absolutely right here scubasteve but until we are certain it is safe we are recommending against it. Of course I wouldn't tell you not to do it, but people here range from EE's to zero experience. Best to err on the side of caution.

OK, inside the socket is a prong in the center, it is bent upwards and its what makes contact with the center conductor of the bulb. Alot of times, connection issues are simply the problem of this center prong not being bent high enough to make good connection with the bulb when you screw it in ..... Bend this prong up some, and screw your bulb back in to see if it fires better.

Thanks Scuba -

Read above, I changed nothing, didn't screw it tighter than before and it fired off the first time I tried after about 8 hours leaving it alone. Case closed but with no clear answer as to why it works sometimes (others are getting this too).

Cheers

CBY