The following wiring diagram is a good example of how to wire your projector with a thermostat.

The thermostat bridges one side(pole) of the DPST switch. With this configuration the power is applied to the fan circuit whenever the switch is on or the thermostat is on or both are on. When it is shut off, the fans will continue to run until the projector has cooled and the thermostat opens(shuts off).

This is for 120V fans, a 12VDC fan diagram and some other stuff will be added later.

Thanks to V&J for the nice drawing that I have modified to show the bridge circuit.

First of all DeathRay64, thanks for the very-easy-to-understand diagram! I just wanted to know, will any thermostat suffice, or is there a particular one you should use?

As long as the contacts are rated for an amperage higher than you will be drawing, it has normally open contacts(close on rise) and it is within the correct temp range, it will work.

The attic fan thermostat works well, is adjustable and is probably easiest to find. I like the adjustable snap disc type thermostats used for HVAC. They are small and can be found with adjustable models. Bladerunner sells them, they are a little difficult to find otherwise but if you can purchase from Graingers, you can get them there. Also an appliance store or even a well stocked Ace Hardware may carry it.

Here is a link to a good one:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productde...1769640&ccitem=

A warning about snap disc thermos; most of them have pretty large differentials, which is the amount of change needed to reset the therm. Some have as high as ~20ºc, which is totally unacceptable in our application.

Good point Brain, I should have mentioned differential as a factor. The attic fan thermostat is the best for measuring ambient air temp in the box, which is what almost everybody is doing. For that application it is wrong, as you said.

I should have mentioned that the application would have to be somewhat different. For a snap disc to work, the proper placement selection would be critical. Something that heated up and cooled off rapidly would be appropriate, such as a reflector bracket. One might have to experiment with placement and settings to get it to work properly. So it is not the easiest way to go by any means.

Hey, nice schematic! <grin> I'm honored.

What is an acceptable differential value?

Now for the 12vdc fan version......

I noticed a lot of different fuses and stuff for wiring protection. Has anybody tried using the GFCI (ground fault circuit interupter) for their power switches? Some come with a flip switch at lowes.
http://doityourself.com/store/4105706.htm

How about a wireless remote controlled power switch for your pj.
13.00 here:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...724&R=200206724

Here is the diagram that I promised.

nice diagram Deathray. i'm going to use two 12v fans so the bottom diagram should help me a lot.

I also want to use the lumen lab WK120V 120V Wiring Kit because I think it will make everything simpler.

could you edit your diagram to show me how I would use the kit as opposed to the fuse and the switch in yours.

also will this work with a timer to shutoff fans?

Yeah I want to get one up with the kit but I haven't actually seen it. However you should be able to adapt it pretty easy as it also is a DPST switch and just put the circuit breaker where the fuse is.

The timer would work and has been done but the thermostat is generally considered a better way to go and probably cheaper.

Do I need to buy something for the LCD power supply, or can I just splice the power cord and connect the wires to that. Basically, I am not sure what the "box" that says "LCD power supply" is.

It depends on your monitor. Some have an internal supply, some external. Yes you can just splice your power cord to the power in your box.

Thanks for the quick reply. If my power cord is connected to the control board that is in the pj, can I just use that with the cord spliced, or will I have to buy something? Srry about the inexperienced questions, I just do not want to screw it up at this point. I am using the benq fp519 LCD.

Also, what gauge wire would you suggest using? Can I connect the fan wires (evercool PCAC) directly to a lower guage wire (ai I assume it will be) without worry?

Thanks again!!!

Sorry, one more question. I am also planning on using the 12v out that is on the LCD board to send power to the fan instead of buying a separate converter. Do you think that will work alright?

It can be done that way but the general consensus is that it is better to run the fans on thier own 12VDC power supply to avoid any potential problems (ie. interference, etc) with the LCD.

You can cut the end of the power cord off and wire it directly to the AC power in your box. If you are uncomfortable with this you could mount an outlet in an outlet box in your projector and just plug it in. If you cut your power cord, don't cut off the bead (I think that is what they are called) off of the cord if it has one as it is supposed to suppress noise I believe. You know what I mean, the plastic molded tubular thing (about 3/4" dia.) that they have on lots of power cords nowadays.

A good rule of thumb about wire gauge is to use the same guage or bigger(size not number) as is feeding whatever you want to hook up.

Here is how to wire ([edit]one version of) the Lumenlab kit into the wiring diagram.

DeathRay --

When you say "remove the jumpers," do you literally mean snapping off the little metal 'guards' that block the connections?

(I'm not at the wiring stage yet, but I don't want to kill my entry plug)

Well I still haven't seen it close enough to see how to actually do it. It looks to me like the jumpers are soldered on the power entry pins but possibly just has push on connectors(spades) on the two switch terminals. Is this the case? You want to end up with four spades left on the switch part and three pins from the power entry. So remove all of the connectors(jumpers) between the the spades and the pins but leave the spades and pins intact.

Since I haven't seen it up close, if something I said here can't work, please tell me why. A closeup pic would be very helpful. It would also be very helpful if someone who has actually performed this procedure could chime in here.

Also; If it seems easier to leave a portion of the jumper on the power entry pins so you have something to solder on to, then do so. Just make sure there is no chance of it accidentally shorting on another terminal.

Waterfowl recieved a slightly different switch and was able to bend up the jumper tabs on that one so that no soldering is involved. If you have a different switch from the one discussed earlier in this thread, check out his post here.

Deathray, I think there might still be soldering, because when you bend those pins up, it still has those pointy things on them, so I can't using a quick disconnect. But I'm not completely certain, I'll try to shapen it more today.

Okay, just managed to shapen it. I used a utility knife and a pair of scissors (not those little ones, those big black ones) to scrape it. Do this for about 30-60 minutes and no soldering!

Hi Guys
Will this diagram work for the uk as well ?
i am presuming its the same as the us 120 volt but with more volts

Well we are going to need someone who knows UK wiring to say for sure. But if you send 220/240V down one line, then it probably would work.

What would be the best way to use this without the fan thermostat? And one other question, why does a fan thermostat seem so important? If your going to control the fans seperatly, why do you need it. At least controling the fans independently I wouldnt have to worry whether the thermostat was working as it should. Wouldn't it be easier to go without it? Thanks all for the help...

You don't really need the thermostat but you will need two seperate switches to do it this way. Refer to the guide for this diagram. If however you wish to utilize both halves of the Lumenlab DPST switch you need the thermostat to keep the fan(s) on for a while. This is because the DPST switch is essentially two switches side by side that are controlled by one switching motion.

Deathray, in your lumenlab wiring kit diagram, where does the lcd's hot wire go?

Well, just like in the origional diagram I drew, it depends on how you want the LCD to function. Check the notes in that diagram about connection at 1,2 or 3. Position 1 would now be somewhere between the breaker and the switch input(this will always be hot when plugged in so you shut the monitor off with the control panel). You could connect it to a crimp type push on terminal at the breaker spade or the switch spade by crimping an extra wire there or you could wire nut a connection in the middle somewhere. No.s 2 and 3 would be just like in the origional diagram.

Ah, I think I get it. I want it to shut of with everything else, so I would wire the hot in with the ballast?

Yep.

Great, thanks deathray! You're really helpful.

Here's the actual wiring for me. If there's any problems with it, please tell me ASAP before I do it!

Note to mods: I double posted this so I could get more responses. Please delete that thread once my question is answered.

Edit: Picture removed, updated diagram

Yeah it looks like you've got it right. Although it is a little difficult to see the back of the power entry I can deduce well enough to tell you've got it figured out.

The only thing is I would add a ground wire to the ballast mounting bolt and maybe ground any metal flashing that might be in danger of shorting on a wire.

Cool, thanks for your help...but one more question (I hope). I would connect one side of the ground wire to the bolt. Where should it lead to?

Connect to anywhere on the green wire in your diagram.

Cool, I'll connect the grounds from the flashing and ballast bolt to the switch's ground.

Here' s another diagram I made. A little more organized than the others.

Edit: Diagram is correct now.

The last picture is good [edit]. With the last diagram change you get fuse/breaker protection for everything with just the one Lumenlab breaker.

Are you using the eballast? If you have a coil ballast you might have an issue where that breaker will trip. If so you may have to get another breaker in the 7-10 A range. (a 6A might work fine but I know a 7-10A would work)

I have a coil ballast. Guess I'll go pick up a 10 amp breaker at Home Depot sometime.

You might give it a try first and see. Maybe don't drill the hole for it yet. That kind of breaker may have to be purchased at an electronics supply store.

How would I know I need a 10 amp?

If the 5A you have pops out when you fire up the PJ, then get one in the 7A to 10A range. No big deal.

This is assuming that your wiring is correct and the breaker isn't popping for another reason.

I'll get a 10 amp to be safe.

Those are nice diagrams DR...

Can anyone tell me what the current drain (amps) of the 240VAC E-Ballast is?

I don't know the exact numbers but I can tell you that these ballasts tend to take 30-50 watts beyond the power they deliver so if we assume that 450 Watts (VA) is being drawn total, then the amperage ay 240VAC is 450/240 = 1.875 Amps round upto 2A for good luck.

Champ! Thanks, pagercam.

I want to run the whole box 'n dice through one master power inlet if possible, so I thought I'd better do a bit of figuring before I burn the place down.

For the fan control, I found a cheap control switch.
http://www.ventingdirect.com/ProductDetail...&source=froogle