Oh god....im freaking out now. Striped my CMV 520D perfectly. Went to put in fcc in hinge door and close, and one of the sides of the "door" is stuffed and now the hinge wont close. Why me......Please.....somebody help me.

A pic would help.

Bit hard at the moment. imagine those little hinge connectors, well on one side its come out. So it doesnt lock down at all on that side. Its got no pressure on the cable on one side of the hinge. This really sucks cause i want to test it to see if it works, and the only way to do that now is to glue to broken one and pray if it works. If the glue job does not work, ive just wasted $360 cause of a stupid broken little hinge knob.

ok. just tested and it all work. Seems no need to apply much pressure to get it to work.....so i am going to use one of those little alligator clips to hold it in place. Will fix an unfixable problem so to speak.

You can just use hot glue on the connection to hold it there.

Does this mean i should watch out for Micheal Powell?

lol...yeah i think hot glue is a better option. will keep everyone posted either way...cheers all.

I had a slightly similar problem with those FCC door hinges... while trying to reconnect the two main FCC's i was having trouble with getting them stuffed in too far and then not being able to close the door. and before i figured out that perhaps it doesnt need to go as far as i was trying to push it in, i snapped on side of a hinge door attempting to make it close on the fcc.
I currently have one FCC w/ a 75% broken hinge door and am freaking at the thought that this may cause me an anxiety attack as i would have now broken the most expensive portion of the PJ.

First off a quickie question: if you attempt to power up your stripped lcd w/o connecting to a video source- what signs of "life" will you have. I thought the "no signal" message would be apparent, or that i might hear some kind of electrical buzzing or something from the lcd compenents- but we detected nothing when trying to power it on and ASSUMED that it was becuz we just weren't getting the FCC's to connect right (becuz of the broken hinge door and the fact that its EXTREMELY awkward to reconnect those turdly things!)

i must be in the minority though since i've not heard of others having much problem w/ them. i'd appreciate someone detailing any special instructions for reconnecting them- i currently have the lcd mounted in a frame and the circuitry mounted to some wood and its really awkward trying to get the two fcc's to connect and then close the hinge door.. and then (which noone has mentioned that i've seen) figure out a way to make it stay. originally it had tape (though i'd forgotten and thus didnt have some handy on the original try) - so i'm assuming the hinge doors by themselves DO NOT hold the fcc cable to its respective socket? if i'm wrong inform me, becuz something must be wrong becuz my FCC socket hinge doors WERE NOT holding the cable in + why would there have been tape otherwise?

At this point, assuming the circuit board is still ok, though i've not detected ANY life from it on intial attempts to turn it on- i'm trying to conjure up a good method for getting the fcc connection to stay.. maybe some masking/elec tape? maybe hot glue? what would be the best thing to use, and what if the broken hinge door comes off completely? seems like technically you could still make it work since the hinge door doesnt appear to have any connectors or play any role except helping to hold the pins together. would just need another way of holding them together.
if we dont get it worked out tonite, i'll get some pics posted. Thx y'all.

well no pics. but no display either.
apparently the fcc's must of gotten hosed in attempting to troubleshoot the issue. currently all i could get was flickering horizontal or vertical lines depending on how i held the fcc w/ the broken hinge to the pins.

word for future 520D owners:

the lil door hinge actually DOES hold the fcc cable in, and the door WILL break if you apply too much pressure. to reconnect the cable to the connector you have to get it just right so that it takes some pressure to get the door down but again, its a fine line between too much and just right. better to err on not enough pressure and take the extra effort (though annoying) to get the cable sitting just right to allow you to close the door safely.

make sure you get the fcc going to the control panel connect right, when turning it on, blue LED's light up to show you power (on the control panel).

guess i'll be buying a new one, upping the total of my PJ considerably.
also jacked up the hole for my fan... but i've some extra wood so thats not as big a deal.

Fatscreen,
that seems to be a common problem. I had the same thing happen http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5803&hl= and ended up ordering a new one today.

Thanks


i replied to the thread you mentioned.. i'll mention the same question here as well:

Is it possible to NOT disconnect the main FCC's during strip down??

my new screen and a chance at hosing a $170 monitor arrives soon, i'll post my results and hopefully start a plog soon, though my build isn't that fancy (my drive for "fancy" got subdued by the drive to "GitRDone")

And all is quite fun and well with the project minus this monitor deal... it really has been a dampener on the fun, very frustrating working with those very fragile small connectors and not having the experience to know how to handle them. Too bad theres not better sources for old LCD monitors to play around with before tackling a more expensive one. If anyone hears of good sources (besides ebay of course) they should post them in the Deals section... surely in time, corporate businesses and what not will upgrade old lcd's to newer ones or from 15"ers to larger ones.