And Sorry,yes the grounding travels from the mains up past the first switch onto the pc psu but does not go onto the second switch as the lamp circuit has no ground

awsome.. thanks for the reply.

I am working on building a thermostat driven fan that would be cheap and effective.. The thermostat will be 120v and at 93-107F will close and turn on the fan. It will reset automatically. The parts are from mouser.com and should only cost about $20 minus the fuse and wire.
The fan pushes 100.2cf..

I'll be building a dare I say it "traditional" haas enclose with your focus assembly. Hopefully one for the focus and another for keystone adjustments.

Heh although since I am on a low budget, I have to breakdown the parts for the wife so I can get her sig and permision..
Well it gives me plenty of time to draw and read lumenlab posts!

Maybe I can get the parts from mouser and post instructions.. I think I can slip that in with her.

Thanks again bro!

Are you thinking of placing this directly onto the light-box or just on the inside walls of the projector box?

I've tried to find data on what temp these bulbs should run at but I haven't seen any. The Osram bulb I will be using has a diagram on the packaging showing the bulb radiating 300 celcius!!

I'm afraid that totally enclosing it will make it too hot, but fan forcing the lightbox will maybe make it run too cold??

My initial design is to have the lightbox vented to allow for natural convection to move the air. The light end of the projector box will be pressurised from the bottom (2x12cm fans) and there will be a vent at the top. The only reason I'm not running the fans on the exit vents is that the fan's life expecancy is much shorter if it's swimming in hot air. (specs show 60000hrs@25deg. and only 30000 if run at 40deg celcius)

Just had a check on the net, this is probably different stuff to what you've found but it gives a ballpark of it's capability:Insulation Specs

Hi Pun15her,
I'm unashamedly jumping on the Pun15her style vertical projector bandwagon...

I was wondering how you secured your glass/fresnels/LCD to your frames?

Also, have the plastic PCAC fans survived the heat unscathed so far? Are they unobtrusively quiet in the projector?

Did you take any steps to protect the connectors between the LCD and the circuit board - say with a bead of silicon as others have done?

Thanks heaps.
Dave D.

It's a pleasure radcode,The pc psu does open up a world of possible "toys"!
Any way I can help,just let me know,good luck!

That stuff looks good Ozstang65.
Just playing around with ideas at the moment.I was thinking of a sealed chamber for the lamp,with a sealed chamber around that,which would be fan cooled and have a load of heatsinks connected to the inner chamber,drawing heat from it.Then a layer of heat shielding around the outside to stop heat transferance into the rest of the enclosure.I am trying not to cool the lamp directly,but draw the heat generated through the heatsinks into the cooling circuit.The basic idea is to not have to cool the rest of the pj.
Cheers for the input.

Hi,mr2gt,welcome aboard the bandwagon!
The lcd,glass and fresnels all fit secureley into the frames.The only thing I have siliconed is the lcd into its origional metal frame.The rest just lifts out of the frames.
The pcac's are behaving very well.No meltdown yet,I am surprised how cool it is in there.I can touch the ceramic lamp holder with the pj running,no problem.
They are not quiet.Running at 50% they are fine,unless it is late at night and you have to keep the volume turned down!!
I have not siliconed the lcd connectors,they look to me to be pretty secure,and havn't given me any problems.
I think I would maybe use standard fans next time,or at least have the fans at the front of the box,rather than at the back,blowing hot air over my feet!!
Cheers!

I swear, this thread is so informative. Not only has so much been explained, but so many great graphics were added in that I was able to make a sort of 6 page picture instruction booklet to have handy as reference. Cheers people.....especially Pun15her for the smart design.

thanks DarkZombieMutt.You are doing good work.This plog is a bit of a pastiche of general ramblings,useful info (I hope),plus a bit of comedy here and there,thanks to all who have contributed,you know who you are!

Got a copy of ghost in the shell cheap today,took one photo before the battery on my camera went!!!
So this one will have to do for now!!!



Will stick camera on recharge!!

What shutter speed are you using for your pics (is it even adjustable?). The quality of your PJ speaks for itself, but it seems like your screenies should be brighter.

Love that movie...

I know!!!!!
I like my camera.It is very good for a £100 camera.Unfortunately it is still a £100 camera!!
There is a night mode,an ae metering mode,the white balance options are rubbish,and the exposure options are rubbish too.
I have the camera all lined up,picture looks great on the 2" lcd! Then I press the button,after 3 secs I get a click,and the pic on the 2" lcd dims by at least 33%!
What a bummer!!!!!!!!!!
I might try and borrow something better.I was in awe of that pic on the wall!!
The detail and colours were awesome.It is just a shame I cant share them with you guys!!!!!

DOH!!!!
I have been playing around with my PC so much,recently that I had forgotten about my lcd controls.Went to check them last night,for no reason in particular:
Brightness:100%
Contrast:53% ????
As the percentage went up,so did the clarity and quality of the image,both at 100% now.And got a BIG difference.I have no idea when,or why I adjusted the lcd to such an unbalanced setting!
But I stuck the matrix on,to check those dark scenes,and where as before,blacks appeared pretty much shadeless and without texture,It is now awesome!!
picture quality has improved alot!
Watched Monster man last night.Very silly but quite fun!
I am determined to get some decent screen shots.
Soon.

Hmmm... I found best results with contrast at 50%, brightness at 100%, which is the default settings for the monitor. At higher contrast settings, I found that it started to wash out the picture.

Perhaps I should check it out again. I know that messing with the contrast on the PC side doesn't look so great, though. Definitely default looks best for a wider variety if situations. Some things look better with higher contrast, but others look worse, and vice versa.

Aaaah,interesting!!!!
I know that the film I was watching just got better and better,as the contrast went up!
I know adjusting it on the PC has a wash out effect,and turning it up just destroys the image,but I will try a few different movies tonight and compare.Cheers Supra!!
I have also found that the colour controls within zoomplayer are not as effective as the nvidia graphics colour controls.
Also,I have a normal monitor,and my pj running off a cheap vga y lead splitter cable,I ciould have bought a more expensive powered splitter.Any idea what effect this is having on my image,it looks fine to me,but would I gain something using a powered version???

This is what I have:

This is what I could have:

The second item is powered to maintain image quality.So using my one means I am loosing image quality??????????
Cheers P

Ok,latest revision of the lightgate idea.
Please post any thoughts,cheers.



It is an aluminium box,with a copper heatsink inside.The lampsits inside both.the heat from the lamp,is dissipated into the fins of the heatsink,and cooled in a horseshoe shaped chamber with intake fan at one end,and an exhaust fan at the other.But the lamp is not cooled directly,just the heatsink.This whole lightgate may be covered in heat reflective material to minimize any heat generation into the rest of the box.
Sorry about the diagram,that was the 4th attempt!!!
Hope it makes sense.
Thanks P

I read somewhere at some point in one of these threads (I think), that the ushio bulb has a minimum operating temp of 22F (someone translate to C!) Anyway Pun15her, I think your can get a little crazy with your light box.

I built the jowerb lightbox and it works fairly well. The fan attached to it blows out very HOT air, just not enough of it. I think my bulb isn't reccesed into the box enough.

You know what,you are right.I enjoyed building my pj so much,I miss the process.
I will take a deep breath,relax,and watch a movie.
The idea behind it is not to control the temperature of the lamp,but to get rid of the heat generated by it.
I may muck around with the idea a bit more.But I may concentrate on building a screen,or maybe some speakers for my pj.Who knows????
Cheers P

Quick gladiator pic...



this pic seemed to come out ok.Apart from the background is alot darker than on screen!

I just want to say awsome project. Your PLOG has helped out so much. Today i started work on building mine. I liked yours so much i am basically just copying it. I have a few things i am going to change but basically it will be like yours. Its a little unoriginal to copy like this but if it gets the job done nicely i am not complaining. Here is my progress so far. Im gonna start my plog as soon as i get around to it. All i have is a samsung 512n and im going to order everything else this week. The hardest part is going to get the focus mech to work like yours.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Thanks !
Your pj is lookin' pretty nice.
What is that next to the box,looks pretty special?

Thats my 1953 chevy styeline. Right now its causing a crap load of problems because i put a small block 350 and a TH350 transmission and the trans just isnt working right and im really busy and i am moving to wisconsin in a few weeks so i dont know what im going to do. I probably shouldnt have started building a projector but who listens to reason. Hopefully the PJ will go a lot faster and easier then the car.

That is real nice!!
A real piece of art!
My dad has just shipped over a 63 galaxie for historic racing.It is fully race prepped,and sounds awesome!!!!!!

I have had a couple of requests as regards to explaining the focus mech.
I think there are enough pics in this plog,so I will try and explain it.Oh ,OK,just one pic then...



Just to give an idea of parts used.
Basically,the triplet fits into a sleeve made from mdf.
I believe the cutout for the triplet is 69mm dia.The outer diameter on mine is about 105mm,to fit the pipe I found.
Ok so we have triplet,sleve and pipe.This fits into a piece of mdf.Mine is an eliptical shape,but a rectangular shape would do.The size of this piece will depend upon the dimensions of the enclosure.This piece of mdf has the drawer runners attached to it.And also has a captive nut attached to it,to allow for the threaded rod adjustment to work.The only other part,is a hole in the enclosure,and a small piece of larger diameter pipe for the smaller ppe to run in.
Not sure if that is going to help or confuse.I will post some more pics!








I hope this helps,at least a little!
Please let me know if there are any details I have left out!
Or if there are any questions.....please ask.I am only too happy to (try) and answer them.
Cheers P

I have a '65 Mustang (hence the Ozstang tag) which i'm currently doing up - it's taken a back set the last few weeks for some reason .....
My father has a '78 Escort which he competes in the Historic events here (It's still a few years away from actually being classed as historic...but the driver qualifies...)

My PJ will see quite a few motorsport events methinks...

Anyway, back to present issues. I've only been able to find a universal joint for a 6mm shaft. The motor/gearbox you're using looks to be very similar to mine, at about 3mm. Can you tell me what the make is?

65'Mustang,very nice!
Love the historic racing events,real good fun!

My gearbox is this one:
Bought from here:Sussex model centre.

The universal joint I used is a 3.2mm and was pulled from a model boat I made a couple of years ago.
It is made by Graupner.
I found this intl hoby store that sells them:Hobby lobby Universal joints!
Love your reflector sled by the way!!
Cheers P

Sorry for the indulgence,here she is in all her beauty!!!!
Man this thing is HUGE!!!

Racing at silverstone on 31st.
(kept the kids in the picture,but cut my sisters head off,sorry,sis! )

What picture???

Really,no picture? Damn!Can anyone else see it?
It is not pj related,so it's not really important.

Boy oh Boy Punisher!! - Thats one mighty fine box, you have inspired me
Im gonna make one exact to yours, and help you could provide is appreciated.

Man i love the shape of that box!! its awesome! Will keep in touch mate if thats ok!

I can't see any of your pictures today, where are they hosted???

I can see them all no hassles.

I looked at the HTML source to find the image host and went to the link directly which said the server was overloaded, come back later, why I can't see it and other can I don't know.

I think we broke it...

Punisher, any chance you could offer some assistance when needed on my PJ ?

No problem hyperdallas,I will do my best.
Just let me know how I can help!
Cheers P

Thanks soo much... Awesome.

Hope you don't mind hyperdallas.
Thought I'd post here.
This is a diagram I drew for someone else,but it shows the curve radius of the front.
It is a section of a circle,with a radius of 1010mm,and the centre point being 200mm from the floor.
I hope that answers your question???
If not,let me know,Cheers!!



(all measurements are INTERNAL on this diagram!!)

Nice job Pun15her,
One question...
In a folded design I thought the back of the panel with the boards should face the lamp...I'm only saying this because alot of people have not done this design because of the heat issue on the boards...how did you do this with out getting a backwards image...?


lesko

Hi,lesko.
I only have experience with one monitor,but I found,with the Benq,that the 4 ffc's between the lcd and control board strip,bent with no stress at all.I am not sure about any other models of lcd.But I was perfectly happy to bend the Benq's fccs.
Hope this helps!



Cheers P

Hey tmproff,

Could you list the measurements you used for this box and the thicknes (and type) of the wood used?

That would help me start this awesome puni15er style PJ...Love it!

Great work Pun15her and nice start tmproff!!

Hi Pun15her!

Could you also include the measurement of the front "curved" panel as indicated in attached image? That would help to cut that panel to size b4 curving it? Just use a flexible measuring tape... in decimal pls:) (millimeters or centimeters will do... I hate inches! ;P )

Click to view attachment



Also the dimensions given in the plan above do not match those given in your schetch here below. Why?:



THX!:)

Sorry,freakQNC
The diagram above does state "Internal dimensions".
The other diagram for tmproff has general external dimensions.(Although not specified,sorry.)
Cheers P
Oh,the external curve is 64cm
Sorry for any confusion,freakQNC.Hope this helps.

I just wanted to say when i made my box from your diagram i made the curved part to where it just fit. I dont think the actual dimmensions of that would really matter since all that goes in there is the focus which is in the tube anyways and the air intake. Now it is neat saying its a larger part of a giant circle (kind of like that airport they made in japan, saw it on tlc) The distance and placement of the triplet lense is the only thing that matters and so far is the hardest part for me to get exactly correct. I was actually thinking about making it a different shape in the front but couldnt figure out one i was happy with. I had a couple drawn out but they were pretty shitty so im not even going to bother putting them up.


Side not about car pictures-
Nice car man. I can see the pictures on my computer at work sometimes and not at home but what i saw i liked. I was trying to take some pictures of mine and put it up but its either dark or raining at my house. Ill get some up eventually though.

You are 100% correct,It doesnt matter at all.It is down to whatever shape you like at the front,as it is just space to put stuff in.
I'd like to see the car,rainy and dark is cool!!

Thats no problem mate, thanks!

Hey Pun15her,

I have read your PLOG with awe. Truly amazing.

I am thinking of stealing your threaded rod design for holding all the frames (hope you don't mind). I was just wondering what thickness rod you used?

Cheers!

Im not punisher but once again i think this comes down to prference. Obviously it cant be to small or to big. I used i think a fairly good sized rod because i didnt want it to be unstable. If i bump into it or something i dont want it to shake or anything. I bought them in 4 foot lenghts and if i could bend it then i didnt buy it. I got one that is strong to increase how sturdy everything is. - my little 2bits

Thanks adonke1. How thick was the rod you used?

Cheers,guys.I bought M8 rods at first,but then decided they were a bit over the top,so in the end I opted for M6,and they are just about right!