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Lumenlab > LLAVS: Lumenlab AVS > Projector Builder > PLOG, Your Project Logs
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matropolis
I'll just get right to the point, I've been slowly putting together all the parts required to build my HD projector. I've been researching the forums for a little over a month, and it's time to give back some ideas and findings to the forums that I've taken so much.

My first suggestion to any new builder is "Do your research first". While performing your research, start some type of notebook with all your findings. Things you like, problems to look out for, and places to purchase materials not sold at the Lumenlab store. Trust me this has been a great help to me.

Parts acquired so far:
1 - LG - L1720P
1 - Coralvue 400 watt e-ballast
1 - Ushio 1012 400 watt metal halide bulb
1 - Norpro Mixing Bowl
1 - Mogel Socket
1 - PC Power Supply (converted to be used for the project)
1 - Digital Doc 5 (Combination Temperature Sensor Fan Speed & Voltage Monitor)
1 - Pro Zoom Lens
matropolis
I'll start my PLOG by showing some general pictures of how to strip the LG - L1720P.
matropolis
Be sure to ground yourself before working with the monitor, and be sure not to scratch the front of the screen.

Turn monitor over on front and remove plastic around monitor stand.
matropolis
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You'll need a least 2 flat blade screw drivers, and it will take some force to seperate the case. Start at the bottom and start pulling upward on the case. Use the screw drivers to keep the case from snapping back together.
matropolis
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These screws are very small and hard to remove.
matropolis
As you fold the board back, be sure there is something on the other side to keep the pressure off the FFC's.
matropolis
This picture shows it better so I'll mention it now, you will later need to pry some metal clips out and up to get the case apart. I suggest again to have some small screw drivers handy to keep the clips from closing back.
matropolis
These small screws are on both sides of the case.
matropolis
I didn't have enough hands to take pictures while I took the outer case off the LCD panel. Just be very careful to not put put pressure on the panel itself. Once the metal clips are undone, it comes apart very easily.
matropolis
matropolis
Test went good, and thankfully it still works. Panel is hooked to Dell Laptop, playing a music video.
ozarkpro
QUOTE (matropolis @ Dec 22 2004, 04:17 AM)
Test went good, and thankfully it still works.  Panel is hooked to Dell Laptop, playing a music video.

Looks pretty cool so far. smile.gif
Haas_man
Professional tear down instructions ! Nice work.

What are the final dims of the panel alone ?
I kinda wish everyone would supply these.

What does the FFCs on the side do? interconnects?
KingOfSwords
Yeah...this is what a Project Log should be. Great work.
matropolis
QUOTE (Haas_man @ Dec 29 2004, 03:06 PM)
Professional tear down instructions ! Nice work.

What are the final dims of the panel alone ?
I kinda wish everyone would supply these.

What does the FFCs on the side do? interconnects?

I think you are right about the FFC on the side of the panel, it some type of interconnects. I don't think their going to be that big of a deal, it's just added another challenge for framing the panel. I'll post how I frame it when I get to that point.

I'll have to post the dimensions of the panel another time, because I put the monitor back together. Since the pro fresnels are out of stock, I didn't want anything to happen to the panel, so I felt this would be the safest thing.
Haas_man
I don't need dimensions right away. I was just trying to get a feel for the size of a 17" panel. They are now at the same price I paid for a 15". I would like to scale up what I've already done. The model you are using has got impressive specs and at a good price.
matropolis
It's been a while, but now that there is hope the pro fresnels are on the way I'm going to start back on my projector build.

Haas_man, I measured my panel and it measures 13 3/4" wide X 11" tall.

I just finished attaching the panel to a plastic frame from the stripped monitor with silicone. I'll post pics later.

I'm now working on:

-Box Design
-Focusing
-Frame work for fresnels
-Keystone correction
-Wiring for panel
-Ballast wiring
matropolis
Here's how I attached the LCD panel to a plastic frame that was already inside the monitor.

matropolis
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When placing the silicon in the areas below, be extra careful to keep it on the lip of the LCD panel. Also after you finish an area, clean the tip of the silicone tube. This should help keep silicone from stringing across the panel.
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I also tried to keep the silicone off the FFC's. I don't know if it would interfere with anything, but I didn't want t take any chances.
foe
Hey dude i went with the LG screen too and mine looks exactly like yours. Mine had same specs but a 600:1 contrast, havent really used it as I find the faulty pro fresnel to annoying to watch.
Any nice screen ;P
fore1337
QUOTE (foe @ Feb 9 2005, 03:48 AM)
Hey dude i went with the LG screen too and mine looks exactly like yours.  Mine had same specs but a 600:1 contrast, havent really used it as I find the faulty pro fresnel to annoying to watch. 
Any nice screen ;P

(n00b question) What's wrong with the Pro lenses?


--
re:Plog
I've been shopping around for a good 17" panel. The LG looks like it has great specs.
matropolis
fore1337 - there has been some manufacturing problems, which had caused the projected image to be out of focus in the corners. Brain has been working with the manufacturer and the new fresnels are on their way from China. He will be replacing everyone defective fresnels first before anyone else can buy them.
Check the daily news thread for updates from Brain.

For the price, the LG has some of the best specs I've been able to find. And it is very easy to strip.
meotch
Is the response time on the monitor 12ms?
LG's website says 16ms.

Been trying to find a nice 17" with low response time, high contrast and a DVI input.
matropolis
Most retailer websites, only show it at 16ms. The box that it came in had a sticker that said it was updated to 12ms.

Here's a link to the LG web site where it shows the response time at 12ms.

LG 1720P Monitor Specs

You'll need to click the specifications link.
Miklopolis
Hey Matropolis,
I like it so far, and I like your name. hehe
Crowbar
Hi! Great work on the pics and teardown! biggrin.gif
Keep up the good work.

This is my first post and I am doing a lot of reseach just as you suggested. I am still undecided whether to KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) with a 15" or go head first with the 17" and deal with the lens/zooming/focusing problems along the way. I was wondering if you found in your research and experience that the 450:1 contrast on the 17" L1720P is going to be enough for the project?

Thanks, cool.gif
matropolis
I think I read somewhere in my research that 400:1 was the suggested minimum contrast ratio for the LCD panel.

If I was going to start over, I wish I would have started with a 15" projector and then one day moved up to a 17". But I wanted to go for the gold and try for a 720P projector.
FatScreen
excellent plog. definitely will help newbs in the future who build 17" pj's.
matropolis
Well as I continue my build there has been an update to the mounting of the LCD panel to the plastic frame. Because of an air flow issue, you will need to cut away part of the top and bottom of the plastic frame.
matropolis
A closer look.

You will need to do this at the top an bottom. Also I would do this before you mount it to the LCD panel.
matropolis
Here's the LCD Panel in its plastic frame mounted to the wood frame.
matropolis
Using one sheet of 1/2 inch birch from Home Depot box is now complete.
matropolis
Using some wood slats to hold the box together from the inside. This should keep the wood from splitting.
matropolis
Cut some test fresnels. Using straight edge and a box knife.
****Remember when cutting fresenels, if you need to cut 1" from length, you take 1/2" from each side.****
matropolis
Mounted the fans.
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