Yes this would work. This will shut the lamp down and keep the fan moving. This is a little bit different setup then mine.

I forgot about this in my diagram... Mine actually keeps the fan moving until the temp is below 100F or what ever you set it. It doesn't turn the lamp off.

And I found some error in my diagram (I think) Revising and will repost later.

Where can one find a 120 V thermal switch that will open at around 100 F? There was a link provided in an earlier response but these were rated for 220 V.

I thought I might could modify the bimetallic strips on the attic fan thermostat I bought at lowes by inverting them, but they were made as a complete unit. No modification could be made so I am now looking for a thermal cuttoff or switch, preferrably one that will reset itself.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3228

I noticed that the thermal cutoff was at around 135 F. Seems to be a little high. I would like it to cut off sooner than this. I understand that if the fan quit working it would ramp up to 135 degrees real soon and would probably be okay. But I'm thinking about an instance where the fan, for whatever reason- reduced rpm, blockage or etc, quits pulling out the proper amount of heat and reaches a temperature of over 105 degrees for a prolonged period. I do not want to be continually watching the temperature guage and worrying about this scenario. If this is totally off base please say so. I may be just making a mountain out of a mole hill but I thought I would ask.

Oningyou,
You pulled all your pics to revise but I don't see where you have updated them. Can you please post one good diagram for me? I am starting to get the hang of this, but I still need some help. I'll prolly have a relay so figure that in, too.

Steamer

The high limit cutoff can work but finding the right placement would be a trial and error process. You would have to find a surface that remains under 135ºF when the cooling system is working properly and would rapidly rise in the event of a cooling system failure. This placement would vary from design to design. An adjustable high limit cutoff would probably be a more suitable item for bladerunner to carry.

Anybody got any ideas?

How does this wiring diagram look to everyone? Do you fore see me running into any problems?


Thanks,
Kevin

just a heads up, it didnt' show up in the forum for me, but i was able to put the url in my address bar, and see it taht way!

WHOA - there it is, hmmmmmm
oh well!

Ugh

Access denied, Some of the guy's use this free host. They seem to like them.

Imageshack

Ok, I hope it works this time. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Kevin

What are the specs for the CAP? I am using a coil ballast. And where would the cap go in the diagram above? In addition what is the 14 point circuit above the DPDT switch?

Bill

Can I use a 250 watt MH bulb with a 400 watt ballast?
Thinking of conserving electricity, and my electric bill, but want the option of
increasing the brightness.

Edit: Never mind, searched Google, they say No! You have to match the bulb
and ballast.

kdeuce, haven't studied it for very long but wouldn't the converter and the thermostat need to be switched in the diagram. From my perspective it looks like you are mixing 120 v ac, from the switch, and 12 v dc ,from the converter, and sending it to the 12 v fans. Seems that you would want the thermostat, which runs off 120 ac to be upline from the ac/dc converter. Everything else looked okay. This is just the way I see it from glancing at it so I may be wrong.

I think it was said that since the thermo switch doesn't have curcuitry that the voltage doesn't matter. Also the switch is dual-pole so the voltages won't be mixed. And I wanted it so the fans run the whole time the PJ is on no matter of temperature, and run to cool off after it's powered down

Yeah, I remember that now.

I've modified your diagram to suit my tastes. I wanted the thermo switch in line before the ac/dc converter because I wanted the wires from the converter going directly to the fans. Please let me know if everything looks to be right in my diagram. I, as well, want the fans to turn on when I power the projector, and I want them to stay on after the projector is shut down until the inside temperature is brought down to a certain level.

I'm confused. I don't have my ballast and bulb yet, but is the negative wire off of the bulb supposed to go back to the 120vac common. I was thinking that the ballast would have a negative wire comming out.

Vroom, I looked over it and its the same as I have my schematics. I can't see anything wrong with it. I hope its correct because its the way I am planning on wiring everything. By the way, I like the looks of both diagrams you and Kdeuce produced. What program?

I would like to place a thermal cutoff right before the lamp in case the temp ramps up due to a bad fan or etc.

I used a super advanced program that many would never understand. AKA microsoft paint. Just hold down shift and it'll draw a straight line.

@vroom - I guess it's just a matter of choice where the thermo switch goes. I guess there may be less chance of interference of the fans power. Another thing is you'd no longer need a DPST switch. You could just get a SPST and split the wire after the switch( I beleive), might save a little $ on the switch that way.



Kevin

Really, paint will do that? Maybe for you but not for me. Good job though.

Here is a diagram to inter connect HTPC and LL PJ I am still waiting to experiment this circuit need to find the right relay, Hoping some one will provide me the relay information. check this link I have posted this thread for help

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4162


Edited 01-31-2005

Thanks for every ones support I have completed my Control Box. You can check the link for the final diagram and control box

Thanks
Skanmyth

finally! got my lamp kit AND my lense kit! my LCD is stripped, box is built. i'm ready to start putting it together.
question about the new ballast. I just received the 1022b 120V S400DD Ultimate Light Kit. the wires for input are brown and black. the wires going to the lamp are brown and blue. so which wires are negative and which are positive? i'm sure this is a basic wiring question, but i don't know the answer and can't find it. i've searched all the forums.

any help = great appreciation.

Thanks!

SUH-WEET!

thanks vroom!

Brown from ballast to black from mogul
Blue from ballast to white on mogul


Anyone... correct me if I'm wrong. I need to know this ASAP as well.

EDIT: It appears that I'm right after searching. Have at it.

could someone tell me if my connections look okay from the diagram. one question is where do i ground? do i ground everything to the plate on the ballast?

also, where would i put the 10amp 120 volt fuse? or do I need that?

the extension chord is one with a 3 sockets on the end. i thought i would just plug everything in to it and have three switches - one for the fan, one for the ballast, and the original power on/off control panel for the LCD. I cut off the plug end of the extension chord and soldered the connections to one of those fancy power plug thingys i salvaged from a bad scanner.

thanks!



EDIT: well after blowing 4 fuses (in the house) i figured out that the commons don't go through the switch. everything seems to work fine now, so i'll start putting it together...

While perusing Lowes I came across an electric heater thermostat with 120V input. The max temp was a little above 90F. Basically, I think it was just a bimetallic cutoff switch that opened when the temp hit the set point. It was rated to 20 amps.

I will be using this as my temperature control if I can set the temp to 95F or above. The cost was only $15. I think it should work for instances where the fan may give out and the inside temps shoot way up.

Just an FYI poste.

Its written on the end of the ballast!

Kirk

skanmyth,
Looks like you have it wired so that there is no use for the Fan relay. It will always be on when the light is on so you might as well dump it and just run a wire from the lamp power to the attic therm.

Kirk

Kirk,

you have to use 2 relays one for fan and one for Lamp reason you isolate 2 circuits is to use the attic fan thermostat if you use one relay when attic fan thermostat works your light will start working again.

Its same like you have to use 2 separate switch for fan and light.

OK got it. must have been to early in the morning!

Kirk

Here's my wiring diagram that I drew in Word. It looks more confusing than it really is. There just wasn't enough space to work with, so they are all overlapping.



EDIT: Diagram is now 100% correct.

it wasn't on mine.

Newbie here... I have a few questions about the wiring image below. I do not have the M59 ballast. I have

1. I went to Radio Shack to get a fuse. I didn't really know anything about them and the workers there didn't really seem to either. What I ended up getting was SFE TYpe Fuse 10 Amp... is this what I am looking for? I didn't really think so, but I bought it anyway.

2. I have 2 12V fans I was going to use instead of 1 120V fans (just because I have them already). In this case how should the curcuit be modified? Or should I just get a 120V fan?

3. What is Cap in the schematic? I was confused by this.

4. What are the yellow COM wires going back into the ballast. Basically I am wondering what COM stands for?

5. The ground "Add to ballast frame" should just be connected to what?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I want to make sure I am doing this right. I read through this whole thread, but was still confused.

Well lets see if I can help,

1. As long as it has the correct voltage rating and current rating and you have the proper fuse holder I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

2. You can use a wall wart and splice them onto the adaptor end or if you have 2 12v fans laying around you probably also have a computer power supply too. That is what I used but you might have problems with it because there are usually two wires that need to be tied together to turn it on. (research before trying, or just ask I can look it up)

3. The cap stands for capicator (can't spell that damn word) it will be used for the lighting if you use a coil and core balllast. Don't worry too much about that there is a wiring diagram on the ballast when you recieve it.

4. Com stands for common as in neutral wire (white wire in houses).

5. The green wire that you will be using to ground all of your components will tie to this. You will bring in a hot (black or whatever color you choose), neutral or common (white), and a ground (green) into you box in order to plug it into your wall outlet.

This is probably a stupid question, but why are timers necisarry to keep the fan running after the pj is switched off? I came accross this link that says:




This would have the advantage over the timers of still working if there was a power cut. I'm sure theres a reason why this doesn't work but I've read through this thread and not found any mention of it and I'm curious to know what the reason is.

I've just found the answer to my own question, you would need a capacitor about the size of a house apparently, as 1 Farad is only equal to 1 amp second. Although I don't know if the same idea would work with a small rechargable battery thats constantly charged while the lamp is on, then left to drain by running the fan when the lamp is switched off.

I'm still lost too, brain should add a Legend on his diagram in order to easily identify what everything is.

so a 400w 120V Electronic Ballast does not need a capacitor connected? Is this correct that only the coil ballasts need this?

Correct.

you guys keep forgeting"The Guide" is just that a guide to follow as you build, to guide you in your journey, it is not a set of plans "The Bible" because DIY is just that Do It Yourself, the other service this site presents to you is the forums for help with your particular situation, there are way to many different parts used and no two projectors are the same. and if you don't want to wait the 10-20 mins (Which is a fast responce for any Forums), then jump on chat as ask. And Also there is the search, which it really is easy to find what ya want, just like the net use inteligent search meathods.

Just something to mention to avoid potential problems. Make sure that the white wire from the mongul and the blue wire from the electronic ballast are connected and share no additional commons. THis should be a closed loop. Hot from the electronic ballast (brown) connected to the black of the mongul, and then the white from the mongul connected with the blue from the electronic ballast.

Has anybody seen or used one of these?


http://www.memory-up.com/merchant2/merchan...Code=A-P-BC9901

Digital Thermometer/Fan Controller/Multi-funtions Front Panel
A powerful tool for any PC enthusiast.
Product Showcase

Just want to reiterate that when one hooks up the mongul you need to connect the common back to the ballast common. On some of the wiring diagrams it seems that many take the white common from the mongul or lamp and have it going to a bank of commons. THis will not work and will blow the ballast. The common from the lamp must connect back to the common on the output of the eballast. The input common on the ballast can be wired to a bank or strip of commons like show on the diagrams. Hope this is clear enough to follow.

here is a diagram that depicts my wiring scheme. Let me know if it helps.

This is a stupid question, but I have to know, what is the SPST??

SPST Single Pole, Single Throw (type of electrical switch)

Not a stupid question at all. It is simply what most of us think of when we mention a regular switch. It stands for single pole single throw.

I would definately move the lamp high limit cut off to the eballast input wire. Where you currently have it you are switching voltage that is of a higher value than the switch rating. The mogul base is rated at 4KV to handle the starting pulse.

Good point. I hadn't really given it much thought but I can see your point clearly. Another oversight avoided. Thanks.