I started out with a ViewSonic N1630w 15.6" viewable widescreen HDTV/PC monitor.

*Features 1360x768 resolution, high brightness and fast video response for crystal-clear moving images
* 10,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio delivers richer blacks for better dark scene performance
* Support for HD signals up to 1080i, lets you watch your favorite movies and TV shows in amazingly crisp detail
* Your connection options are extensive with HDMI and other component inputs
* Word processing documents, spreadsheets and other business/student applications are super crisp

Type 16" (15.6" viewable) color TFT active matrix, wide LCD
Display Area 13.5" horizontal, 7.6" vertical, 15.6" diagonal
Optimum Resolution 1366x768
Contrast Ratio 10,000:1 dynamic
Viewing Angles 160º horizontal, 160º vertical
Response Time 8ms (typ)
Light Source Long life, 50,000 hrs (typ)
Brightness 250 cd/m2 (typ)
Aspect Ratio 16:9

INPUT
PC RGB analog (75 ohms, 0.7 Vp-p)
TV TV/cable, composite (RCA), component YPbPr/YCbCr, S-video
Audio 3.5mm mini stereo audio in/out and RCA (left/right) audio in
Frequency Fh: 24-82KHz; Fv: 50-75Hz
Sync H/V separated (TTL)
Digital HDMI (with HDCP and audio support)

The rest is the same as what everyone else is using:

1. Pro Reflector
2. 220mm Fresnel
3. 650mm Fresnel
4. 18" Buhl Triplet lens
5. Light Kit from Lumen Labs
6. 8" Antec Fans
7. Mirror that was stripped

I'm not very good at taking pictures especially in the dark. As with everyone else, being there is brighter and clearer than what the pictures show.
Here are some pics:

Some more pics:


Getting the triplet mounted.




Fresnel mounting.


Pro reflector with dental chair reflector behind it.


All together now.

More pictures of the reflector.

Very nice!!!

man thats one crazy reflector ,

props for that idea

Is this the monitor ? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16889107040
Was it an easy monitor to rip apart ?
Did you have any fcc cable issues with this monitor ?

Yes, this is the TV I used. I wanted plug and play and it has very good specs.
It was very easy to take apart but the fcc cable is somewhat short, probably 3 to 4".
The FCC cable runs through the floor of the projector box. The brains of the TV is actually mounted under the the box. This wasn't really a problem because I have most all the connections (HDMI, Component, etc.)in use. I didn't want a fist full of wires running through the projector. The way the panel is positioned the fcc cable is located at the bottom of the LCD screen and the main TV component would be in the way if I put it inside the projector. I also keep the controller sensor for using the controller under the floor also. I just raised the projector box about 3" and cut a hole so the sensor wasn't blocked. It's really nice because I can point the controller at the wall and it still works. I'll try and get a picture for you.
I also did not strip the polarizer!!! This LCD panel uses anti-reflective coating and doesn't block enough light(in my opinion) to risk damaging the panel. http://www.edmundoptics.com/techSupport/Di...m?articleid=247
http://www.screentekinc.com/pixelbright-lc...tml#differences

You have a photo taken of the light hitting the white screen with no image. That looks very uneven. How exagerated is that compared to in real life?

"It was very easy to take apart but the fcc cable is somewhat short, probably 3" to 4"."

Do you mean the LVDS cable? Was it a bunch of wires with a white snap connector going on each end connecting the Panel to the controller board, or a flat connector joining ribbons on the top and sides of the LCD? The reason being is I am thinking of taking on a new build similar to your design with this monitor. Can you tell me how the orientation of the LCD was in the end looking from the Lamp side towards the lense. Ie. Panel upsidedown and turned right or left. Thanks! P.S. Your results are great.

Example of LVDS Cable:

Ok, I found another thread with this monitor stripped and pics of the panel and connector. It is an LVDS cable, longer ones can be found online or at computer parts retailers. This monitor is looking better and better.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...9&hl=N1630w

It's much brighter in real life and I'm not the best when it comes to taking pictures in the dark. My camera doesn't work that well in a almost pitch black room. Yes, you are correct it is uneven. It was very difficult to bring light to the corners and I'm not happy with the whiter circle in the center either. It's probably because I was experimenting with the reflectors that I have and I don't think they are up to the challenge or at least my contraption isn't. I've tried every position possible and that's the best I've been able to get so far and even moving the mirror around helped but I just can't reach those corners. So I've been enjoying the movies and I can't tell the diminished light in the picture at all.

I have some engineer friends at work who happen to be into telescopes and optics and one makes his own mirrors. I hope to have a special parabolic mirror made to fix the problem soon, we just have to figure out the right curvature.

Here is another pic. This is just my bedroom wall-- "Egg-shell white" I think.

The lens is 9'7" from the wall and the screen size is 6'7" by 3'8".

Yea, I'm sorry for my confusion. It's the LVDS cable I was saying was 3 to 4". I did look into getting a longer one but the more I read the more I was convinced it was a mistake. It seems, if memory serves, that there is a certain impedance in these type of cables and if you try to lengthen the one you have by splicing in longer wires you change that. Even the number of twists in pairs of cables comes into play. I didn't change anything on any component. I put everything into the projector just like they are. I didn't strip the panel either. I've tried stripping other panels with out success and it's just not worth the trouble or the risk. I would do some more research if I were you before spending the money on a longer LVDS cable. If you do find something let me know because I'm going to build another one soon.

After reading your observations I thought I would tweak a little more. I took this opportunity to take some pictures of the inside. I may have gotten some more light into the corners but I'm going to need a better reflector or move what I have further back.

please start a thread on the custom parabolic reflector when its ready!

Absolutely.

sent you a PM. Let me know if you got it!

Yep. I wondering if I should do the reflector study on this thread or the other.

I built a vertical pj with this tv. I had to lengthen the cord from controller to lcd by 4". Originally I had added 10", but I had a very bad picture. Shortened the wires (alot of soldering) and then twisted them tightly. Regular tv signal sucks but, high def channels are awesome.

any progress with this pegasus?

Haven't gotten to far, but I did like that article on the home made parabolic reflector you sent me.

Hi there, I have read with interest.

Like you, I have embarked on my first projector since about the same time as you. It took me almost 2+ to 3 months just to get the right equipment, lenses etc.. This week, I finally managed to put together a relatively complete product shape, along with switches.

But unlike yours, mine is a hell of an ugly product. Nonetheless, just like my child, no matter how ugly it is, its still my child

I would encourage you to finish the project. I still have some more to go, especially in the area of tweaking pictures, plug light leakages, wiring arrangement etc. to go.

Do continue the project. Its worth it.

To share:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=226800

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=71777

Yea, my projector is kinda rough. My next projector will have most of the same components except for the reflector. Hopefully I will be able to shrink it considerably. Giorgaki and I have been talking a lot about reflectors and he has some good information. I did not do any mods to my lcd panel and the results are great except for the brightness. We feel that if you maximize your light engines capability there should be plenty of brightness without touching the panel. We think that to do this you must capture as much of the bulbs light and focus it forward. The easiest way is to use a parabolic mirror the same size as the lcd panel and deep enough to catch as much light as possible. I have a reflector to do the job and am ready to start building. Its a special reflector used for search lights with rhodium plating.

Poor photography but here it is. 14"dia. with 2.25" vertex opening

Just a question, I don't seem to be able to get an answer for this doubt.

For a projector, we ultimately wanted a point light source. But parabolic reflector (from what I understood) seems to create a parallel beam forward instead of creating a point light source. Am I wrong in saying that?

If that is the case, isn't the parabolic reflector unsuitable for a projector?

Correct, if the parabolic were large enough to cover the entire lcd then you can do away with the collimating fresnel and just use the collector. The problem is the way the bulb is position within the reflector, it produces a somewhat shaded center because of the tip of the lamp is in the way and how the arc is designed to burn.

Don't get me wrong, this has been tried by another member named lucky_me with the findings I just mentioned. Perhaps, you can get it to work with your reflector.

I don't think I can eliminate the Fresnel on this next projector build but I will try. I agree with your analysis and I hope it will at minimum increase the brightness of the projection more than what I have presently. It will be an interesting project because I am using the same components as the first projector. However, I am looking for information in how the commercial projector bulb/reflectors work. All the reflectors that they use seem to have a parabolic shape?
Here is a link to some parabola discussions.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14125