Hey guys ! been a lurker here for a while and now i know i really want to build one of these projectors ya'll make, look so easy at that too.
Thats the jist of what i'm planning. i havn't bought the projection lens yet but that is whats available too me at present. I have the fresnel already, accually i have a pair of them,400x320mm 330mm fl lenses, but from what i understand an un-split setup gives a better picture ?
i want the projector to be an upright one as its going to be projection across my room (not that much space) onto the wall opposite (length of about ~3.5m). Im not after a huge picture, TBH i would prefer something that is smaller(40-70) compared to something massive (80-100ish).
so for now my real question is, will i get away with that projection lens? the 14" beseler ? if not can you recommend me any others ?
btw supraguy, if you read this, i'm ma70 aficionado too !. Currently i have a ma70 with a 2jzgte, R154, and a big single (masterpower t70) Turbo, ok giken triple plate clutch, Wilwood 14" brake kit, and a whole lot of other go fast goodies to go along with it !
Full Version: Ez's projection project...it needs help !
Welcome to the forum!
Here's a thread you'll want to read: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15170
And another post: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=272257
An unsplit setup is better, but you'll want the triplet to be perpendicular to the center of your screen. With your 14" Beseler (~ 355mm FL), throwing a 70" screen size, your throw will only be 1.94 meters. This will place the enclosure directly in your path and blocking the screen.
Here's a thread you'll want to read: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15170
And another post: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=272257
An unsplit setup is better, but you'll want the triplet to be perpendicular to the center of your screen. With your 14" Beseler (~ 355mm FL), throwing a 70" screen size, your throw will only be 1.94 meters. This will place the enclosure directly in your path and blocking the screen.
thats a really good point quasi, i think forgot to actually use focalcalc all together ! sounds like an 18" fl lens would be better for me.
but the reason i asked about the 14" was i remember reading plenty that the focal length of the fresnel and the triplet should be close. does this mean im going to have to change the fresnel to ?
but the reason i asked about the 14" was i remember reading plenty that the focal length of the fresnel and the triplet should be close. does this mean im going to have to change the fresnel to ?
going on quasi's advice,
ive just purchased a
550mm fl fresnel
220mm fl fresnel
and a Pro triplet all from kyxz310.
from everything i have read and seen i should have been looking at these lenses originally...
this gives me my magic 65" screen at 8'7"
ive just purchased a
550mm fl fresnel
220mm fl fresnel
and a Pro triplet all from kyxz310.
from everything i have read and seen i should have been looking at these lenses originally...
this gives me my magic 65" screen at 8'7"
well, got the lenses yesterday.
both the pro lens and the beseler have chips out of them on the inner lens. i'll put some photos up tomorrow.
i dont even know if they'll affect the image.
as for how they got there, the seller had put them in a bubble bag and mailed them from US to AUS
needless to say im a little more than disappointed and disheartened.
both the pro lens and the beseler have chips out of them on the inner lens. i'll put some photos up tomorrow.
i dont even know if they'll affect the image.
as for how they got there, the seller had put them in a bubble bag and mailed them from US to AUS
needless to say im a little more than disappointed and disheartened.
If the chips are at or near the edge, it likely won't make a lot of difference to the projected image. The chips in the lens affect overal image focus to about as much as the percentage of the overall area of the lens that they cover... Or, more accurately, the percentage of light that hits them. Since it's unlikely that light through those chips will focus at all, it basically means you might lose up to about 1% of your overall brightness, which is, really, insignifigant.
thats sorta good news, but i dont think you realize how big this thing is !
ive just started another thread in the tech section @ http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28302
ive just started another thread in the tech section @ http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28302
could one of the mods move this to plogs ? i'll use this thread as my plog once exams are over
Thread moved.
ok so i've received my metal halide lamp setup, WOW is this thing bright. its a 150w jobbie.
my only concern is i dont know if its going to run a ceramic 150w bulb, without frying the thing.
would someone be able to point me in the right direction ? the link below is a spec sheet
my one is the om pak 150m B034 (last one on the 1st page)
ignition voltage is 4-4.5kV
lambda is 0.90
Current 0.76A
Linky PDF file
my only concern is i dont know if its going to run a ceramic 150w bulb, without frying the thing.
would someone be able to point me in the right direction ? the link below is a spec sheet
my one is the om pak 150m B034 (last one on the 1st page)
ignition voltage is 4-4.5kV
lambda is 0.90
Current 0.76A
Linky PDF file
What is the make and model of the lamp you're using?
QUOTE (Quasi_Mojo @ Jun 2 2009, 10:14 PM) 
What is the make and model of the lamp you're using?
ive got 2 here,
both are
150w Osram Powerstar HQI-TS 150W/NDL
one of which i think is dead and the seller is going to send a replacement for
Well... the ozstang65/DAZZZLA/elken2004 OZ combo 10.6 build used a 150W Powerball with a Tridonic Atco ballast. Not the same one as you have, but you might want to PM one of 'em and ask for their input.
I have not found any reference to that particular ballast you have, but I have seen others like it on the forum. Still looking.
Osram, of course, want to flog their own POWERTRONIC (PDF link) control gear.
That is a regular magnetic ballast, isn't it? Just in a fancy suit?
It looks like pun15her used Tridonic ballast(s) on his P 10 XPS build. Unfortunately, he doesn't come around to visit us that often, anymore - I think it was because my bad breath. Man, could he work that MDF.
WhiteChrome used a very small, sexy Tridonic e-ballast for his 150W CMH 7.2" build. He reported no flicker with that e-ballast. It's a shame that he wimped out, sold his parts and bought a commercial projector.
I have not found any reference to that particular ballast you have, but I have seen others like it on the forum. Still looking.
Osram, of course, want to flog their own POWERTRONIC (PDF link) control gear.
That is a regular magnetic ballast, isn't it? Just in a fancy suit?
It looks like pun15her used Tridonic ballast(s) on his P 10 XPS build. Unfortunately, he doesn't come around to visit us that often, anymore - I think it was because my bad breath. Man, could he work that MDF.
WhiteChrome used a very small, sexy Tridonic e-ballast for his 150W CMH 7.2" build. He reported no flicker with that e-ballast. It's a shame that he wimped out, sold his parts and bought a commercial projector.
if your looking for a electronic ballast under a hundred bucks
here is what i used for my de 150w bulb http://www.ballastwise.com/item.asp?PID=13...=17&level=1
or if you want to go magnetic here is a cheap ballast for 45.00 http://www.1000bulbs.com/2547/
ive used the magnetic ballast with no flicker , only problem is the connections are really close together . so i fried the fuse first time i tried to fire it up
(pos and neg on the 120v input are right next to another)
here is what i used for my de 150w bulb http://www.ballastwise.com/item.asp?PID=13...=17&level=1
or if you want to go magnetic here is a cheap ballast for 45.00 http://www.1000bulbs.com/2547/
ive used the magnetic ballast with no flicker , only problem is the connections are really close together . so i fried the fuse first time i tried to fire it up
(pos and neg on the 120v input are right next to another)
ok so ive cracked open this "suit".... it really is hey
originally i was hoping it was an electronic balast, but alas it isnt.
it doesn't flicker and has a REALLY REALLY faint hum,
its a mag ballast using the same ignitor as daz's the
ZRM 1,8 es/b has a 4-5kV's ignition range,
the capacitor inside is, surprise, Atco CP20.0-09
20uF +/- 10
but the ballast is glued inside....no way of getting it out for more specs.
originally i was hoping it was an electronic balast, but alas it isnt.
it doesn't flicker and has a REALLY REALLY faint hum,
its a mag ballast using the same ignitor as daz's the
ZRM 1,8 es/b has a 4-5kV's ignition range,
the capacitor inside is, surprise, Atco CP20.0-09
20uF +/- 10
but the ballast is glued inside....no way of getting it out for more specs.
jef,
ive got 2 of these ballasts and i really want to use them (cant afford much else atm).
but i have thought of using this one Ebay e balast
so far i've got all put aside
3x330mm Fresnel lenses
1x220mm fresnel lens
1x550mm fresnel lens
Pro Lens
150w Lamp
now i just need to get the lcd and build the box.
have set my sights on the ACER X163WB with dual imputs (vga and dvi)
has a native res of 1366x768 linky to specs
ive got 2 of these ballasts and i really want to use them (cant afford much else atm).
but i have thought of using this one Ebay e balast
so far i've got all put aside
3x330mm Fresnel lenses
1x220mm fresnel lens
1x550mm fresnel lens
Pro Lens
150w Lamp
now i just need to get the lcd and build the box.
have set my sights on the ACER X163WB with dual imputs (vga and dvi)
has a native res of 1366x768 linky to specs
going to order tomorrow for the poj,costing me about 30 Aus.
Anyone see any proplems using these ?
will be using a Rx7 based bulb and a 330/550 unslpit fressie getup.
PJ-PCON 90mm Precondenser Lens
PJ-PCON
Precondenser lens for your light engine. Specifications:
* Dimensions: ∅90mm
* Focal Length: 290mm
* Material Index: n=1.474 (im assuming its borosilicate as this is teh same refactive index for that type of glass. Ez)
* Edge Thickness: 3mm
PJ-RF74 Reflector
PJ-RF74
Specifications:
* Dimensions: ∅74mm
* Radius: 44mm
* EFL (R/2): 22mm
* IR Pass
* Cold Coated Front Surface Mirrored
Anyone see any proplems using these ?
will be using a Rx7 based bulb and a 330/550 unslpit fressie getup.
PJ-PCON 90mm Precondenser Lens
PJ-PCON
Precondenser lens for your light engine. Specifications:
* Dimensions: ∅90mm
* Focal Length: 290mm
* Material Index: n=1.474 (im assuming its borosilicate as this is teh same refactive index for that type of glass. Ez)
* Edge Thickness: 3mm
PJ-RF74 Reflector
PJ-RF74
Specifications:
* Dimensions: ∅74mm
* Radius: 44mm
* EFL (R/2): 22mm
* IR Pass
* Cold Coated Front Surface Mirrored
*rant*
ok after much deliberation i cant decide whether or not i HAVE to use DVI... yes vga is an easy option but i'd rather have a digital signal going to my lcd
and bedsides, dvi can always be converted to vga. I dont have $250+ US to drop on an lcd with a controller, so i'm kinda stuck to dismantling a monitor.
my budget for a monitor is about $150 US (including shipping if its coming from somewhere)... just to give you an idea
as the xbox looks best when outputting digital signals i want to keep it that way.
so i've narrowed my monitor choice to down the the Acer (mentioned above) X163WB which i understand to have both dvi and vga.
theres also the Asus VW161D, but that doesnt have dvi. Both are 16" screens keeping everything within the 16:10 ratio
now comes my other dilemma, there are so many 17" monitors going for so cheap, all that do 720p (in theory), but look skewed when doing so as their native resolution (4:3) is very different, not to mention the amount of light im going to lose being blocked off by the black borders.
*/end rant*
ok after much deliberation i cant decide whether or not i HAVE to use DVI... yes vga is an easy option but i'd rather have a digital signal going to my lcd
and bedsides, dvi can always be converted to vga. I dont have $250+ US to drop on an lcd with a controller, so i'm kinda stuck to dismantling a monitor.
my budget for a monitor is about $150 US (including shipping if its coming from somewhere)... just to give you an idea
as the xbox looks best when outputting digital signals i want to keep it that way.
so i've narrowed my monitor choice to down the the Acer (mentioned above) X163WB which i understand to have both dvi and vga.
theres also the Asus VW161D, but that doesnt have dvi. Both are 16" screens keeping everything within the 16:10 ratio
now comes my other dilemma, there are so many 17" monitors going for so cheap, all that do 720p (in theory), but look skewed when doing so as their native resolution (4:3) is very different, not to mention the amount of light im going to lose being blocked off by the black borders.
*/end rant*
ok so anyone reading ?
suggestions ?
suggestions ?
Does anyone see anything wrong with this ?
like my triplet distance to LCD is longer than the focal length of the Fresnel and the triplet (ie 580>550>500)
like my triplet distance to LCD is longer than the focal length of the Fresnel and the triplet (ie 580>550>500)
You'd probably get more accurate measurements if you used 15.6" for the LCD, instead of 16". Both of the models you mentioned above are 15.6".
The following from the Projector Guide should answer your other question:
So we know that 1 is our lamp, 2 is our isolation glass, 3a+b are the (a) collimator and (
collector fresnel lenses, 4 is our LCD panel and 5 is our projection lens. The collimator fresnel has a rear focal length of 220mm, so we would position the center of the lamp 220mm or slightly less away, as represented by line X. The collector fresnel has a forward focal length of 317mm and we would position our projection lens ~320mm *away from the collector* as represented by line Y. The reason for this is because we want to use the entire projection lens area, not just the center. The illustration shows that the projection lens is positioned slightly before the focus of the forward fresnel lens, consider this to be the rear aperture of the projection lens. The forward fresnel will focus roughly between the front and back apertures of the projection lens.
Our projection lens may have a focal length of 320mm, but the if the lens were only placed at its focal length from the LCD panel we would be focused on infinity, so in practical usage we would place it around ~340mm from the LCD panel as represented by line Z (note this distance will vary with different screen sizes). We leave a gap of ~15mm between the condenser fresnel lens and the LCD panel and a gap of ~20mm between the collector fresnel and the LCD panel. This is desirable because if a fresnel lens is too close to the panel, the grooves on the fresnel lens will be projected too. The larger gap for the collector fresnel is to give some room for keystone tilting if needed. If you have circular lines or Moire patterns in your projection your fresnels are too close to the panel.
If you are making a focusing mechanism for your lens, youÃÍl want about 50mm (~2 of movement in the projection lens which would accommodate virtually every usable setting in which you would use your projector. This means your projection lens range would be 320mm to 370mm from the LCD panel.
Also of note is that there is some tolerance in the focal lengths of the lenses. If you have lines in your projection because the fresnel is too close, you should be able to distance it more without a problem.
The following from the Projector Guide should answer your other question:
QUOTE
So we know that 1 is our lamp, 2 is our isolation glass, 3a+b are the (a) collimator and (
collector fresnel lenses, 4 is our LCD panel and 5 is our projection lens. The collimator fresnel has a rear focal length of 220mm, so we would position the center of the lamp 220mm or slightly less away, as represented by line X. The collector fresnel has a forward focal length of 317mm and we would position our projection lens ~320mm *away from the collector* as represented by line Y. The reason for this is because we want to use the entire projection lens area, not just the center. The illustration shows that the projection lens is positioned slightly before the focus of the forward fresnel lens, consider this to be the rear aperture of the projection lens. The forward fresnel will focus roughly between the front and back apertures of the projection lens.Our projection lens may have a focal length of 320mm, but the if the lens were only placed at its focal length from the LCD panel we would be focused on infinity, so in practical usage we would place it around ~340mm from the LCD panel as represented by line Z (note this distance will vary with different screen sizes). We leave a gap of ~15mm between the condenser fresnel lens and the LCD panel and a gap of ~20mm between the collector fresnel and the LCD panel. This is desirable because if a fresnel lens is too close to the panel, the grooves on the fresnel lens will be projected too. The larger gap for the collector fresnel is to give some room for keystone tilting if needed. If you have circular lines or Moire patterns in your projection your fresnels are too close to the panel.
If you are making a focusing mechanism for your lens, youÃÍl want about 50mm (~2 of movement in the projection lens which would accommodate virtually every usable setting in which you would use your projector. This means your projection lens range would be 320mm to 370mm from the LCD panel.
Also of note is that there is some tolerance in the focal lengths of the lenses. If you have lines in your projection because the fresnel is too close, you should be able to distance it more without a problem.
lol,
looks like completely forgot about that part...thats embarrassing
looks like completely forgot about that part...thats embarrassing
whoops double post
QUOTE (byteme @ Jun 23 2009, 12:52 PM)
whoops double post
Keep us updated. I'm also in Perth and will be starting my plog soonish. I'm doing a 1080 setup with a 15.4 wuxga panel and mst controller. Got a fair few bits for it now, about to splurge on a pro lens and fresnels!
good to hear from another perthie, theres like none of us here.
I've started making the frame work for the poj, i'll try and get some photos tomorrow night.
I've started making the frame work for the poj, i'll try and get some photos tomorrow night.
finally got some pictures... i get to excited about this damn thing.
initially i was having some focusing issues and was only getting the center to focus and some weird double image.
which lead to be the fresnels weren't centered. so i managed to get em pretty close and spaced them apart just a bit more ( about 1" now)
fixed that then i couldn't get the whole damn thing to focus...turns out my lens needed to be adjusted.
then i discover carpet isnt the best thing to place your projector on... the whole frame was skewing of to one side
causing the focus to be out. anyways that is sorted now, well not really but i know what it is.
pro reflector needs adjusting and have to add the precon.
damn, gota buy me a proper FS mirror, this one is shocking. lol its a stripped mirror that is made from silver, not aluminum.
of to Bunnings (hardware store) tomorrow for more nuts, bolts and washers.
i'm not pulling the lcd (ended up buying the asus) apart till the very end, i'm a bit of a clutz at heart. i'll some how break it.
but this thing was so easy to strip and no ffc problems !
couple of pics in the next post
initially i was having some focusing issues and was only getting the center to focus and some weird double image.
which lead to be the fresnels weren't centered. so i managed to get em pretty close and spaced them apart just a bit more ( about 1" now)
fixed that then i couldn't get the whole damn thing to focus...turns out my lens needed to be adjusted.
then i discover carpet isnt the best thing to place your projector on... the whole frame was skewing of to one side
causing the focus to be out. anyways that is sorted now, well not really but i know what it is.
pro reflector needs adjusting and have to add the precon.
damn, gota buy me a proper FS mirror, this one is shocking. lol its a stripped mirror that is made from silver, not aluminum.
of to Bunnings (hardware store) tomorrow for more nuts, bolts and washers.
i'm not pulling the lcd (ended up buying the asus) apart till the very end, i'm a bit of a clutz at heart. i'll some how break it.
but this thing was so easy to strip and no ffc problems !
couple of pics in the next post
no focus------------------------------focused, sorta
Looks like it's coming along nicely.
You should also be able to rotate your pictures after uploading them to Photobucket.
QUOTE (Windcalmer @ Jun 4 2009, 11:55 PM)
BTW, if you take the (( ?action=view¤t= )) out of your Photobucket links the thumb will link right to the pic and not to the rest of your album. Just in case you didn't know.
You should also be able to rotate your pictures after uploading them to Photobucket.
hehe yeah sorry about that, will get onto it now.
solved most of the corner focus issues, but i still cant get one corner (bottom right) to focus. i have a feeling my fresnel frame is not perfectly flat... am going to re router it tomorrow.
does anyone have a diagram of how the lenses inside the pro triplet should be ? the previous owner opened it up to place a polarizer inside. i just want to make sure everything is honky dory inside.
solved most of the corner focus issues, but i still cant get one corner (bottom right) to focus. i have a feeling my fresnel frame is not perfectly flat... am going to re router it tomorrow.
does anyone have a diagram of how the lenses inside the pro triplet should be ? the previous owner opened it up to place a polarizer inside. i just want to make sure everything is honky dory inside.
well i had a crap day today, wont go into details, but it was crap.
finally got down to the projector and i was greeted with this yucky brown/yellow image, i have no idea why and for some reason i still cant get this damn focusing right.
just a note the pictures APPEAR ALOT brighter than they actually are. The leloo pic is probly the best indication of the color push i'm getting
(just a note im using a phillips ceramic MH 150w bulb and that curtain is white, unlike the walls
)
finally got down to the projector and i was greeted with this yucky brown/yellow image, i have no idea why and for some reason i still cant get this damn focusing right.
just a note the pictures APPEAR ALOT brighter than they actually are. The leloo pic is probly the best indication of the color push i'm getting
(just a note im using a phillips ceramic MH 150w bulb and that curtain is white, unlike the walls
)
anyone's input as to why my pictures are brown ?
make sure your fres are completely flat
as for the brown thats a new one for me
mabey the bulb needs replacement
as for the brown thats a new one for me
mabey the bulb needs replacement
Try taking your LCD out of the sled adn see if its the bulb. If its still brown its the bulb, if its white then your LCD might be messing with you.
QUOTE (Windcalmer @ Jul 6 2009, 07:49 AM)
Try taking your LCD out of the sled adn see if its the bulb. If its still brown its the bulb, if its white then your LCD might be messing with you.
see i was thinking the lcd is messing with me, but how could i be sure ? i mean i have already swapped from an osram hqi bulb to a Phillips ceramic with the same results ?!
You really should take the LCD out. That will tell you 100% if that is the problem.
QUOTE (Windcalmer @ Jul 6 2009, 10:10 PM)
You really should take the LCD out. That will tell you 100% if that is the problem.
ok, lcd came out today and viola. it was the bulb, the ceramic one, i was using was around the 4k mark (i tend to prefer a colder picture over a warmer one)... which i dont understand because the ceramics are supposed to have the best color rendition. Maybe my ballast isnt upto it.
thanks Windcalmer !
DOES ANYONE HAVE A DIAGRAM OF HOW THE individual LENSES GO INTO THE PRO LENS CASE ?
i think i may have to get my hands on a 650mm fl field fres though, as no matter how hard i try i can never seem to get decent edge focus. i've swapped the
lcd and the 550mm fl fres for now (its now split) and i seem to be getting the best, most even focus, although its a little out.
off to the fabric store tomorrow to get some black out cloth.
will have pics of the setup in my room aswell
Ez
For the brown push in the images... Did you strip the AG on the LCD? If you did, then this may be the polariser getting damaged. If not, it could also be from the LCD getting overheated some. Are you actively cooling the LCD?
QUOTE (SupraGuy @ Jul 7 2009, 06:07 AM)
For the brown push in the images... Did you strip the AG on the LCD? If you did, then this may be the polariser getting damaged. If not, it could also be from the LCD getting overheated some. Are you actively cooling the LCD?
Ag is still on there but there isnt any active cooling at the moment. I have two fans there (one in the other out) but i havnt hooked them up yet, i think i will !
Watched Finding Nemo Last night, which looked pretty decent but there was some spillage of color on the screen. Lcd got warm to the touch but nothing that felt ridiculously hot...
Ebay - cheap fs mirror I am suspecting its my mirror (stripped one from the hardware store). I did a little testing(aluminum foil in a bowl of water with 2 teaspoons of salt mixed in) last night and it turns out its a SILVERED mirror, not aluminum, and has a bit of tarnish on it. I've just bought the one in the ebay auction above anyways, but will be some time before it gets here.
Ez
Good to see a recent Aussie plog! It seems very difficult to source parts around here! Where did you get your fresnals? I have a set but i'm very dubious about their quality. I've been collecting parts for the past ~9 months, and am almost ready to start the build (straight through simple design)
Keen to see some more updates!
Sam
Keen to see some more updates!
Sam
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