I was wondering what peoples thoughts were about using wind to power a house in ohio. How much would a system cost. I have a cabin ontop of a hill that has no power to it. I use it to hunt out of and etc. I would like be able to go there on weekends and have electric. And heat. I have tried to find weather wind power in ohio is viable but never seen anything. I have been looking on ebay at wind generators and they don't seem to far out of $$.

I would like to be able to have a stove / tankless hot water heater / refrig and energy efficant lighting and afew plugs to use computer and etc.

I was looking at stuff like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/High-Output-2000W-Wind...1742.m153.l1262

Thr first thing you need to do is establish if you hava good contant airflow at least 60% of the time. Once you do that then you can use battery banks to store power and run you cabin off 12v appliances. Its fairly simple. But if you dont have the wind, then its a useless option. Maybe solar if you have the exposure. Just remember that leaving that stuff in the open is a pretty clear opportunity for other cabin owners to "upgrade"...

Do you happen to have a stream nearby?

No streams that are worth anything. Say I do have wind 60% of the time. Where do you find this stuff that runs off 12v?

I would like to start off with one wind generator just for some things and then keep expanding it till everything is powered with it. Start off with just the heat. I was thinking about installing a heat pump but I dont know if that would be enough for the winter weather around here.

I would shy away from the heat aspect as that is probably one of the largest energy consumers there is. The first thing you will probably want to go with is simple lighting and water pumping. If you choose to, you can run 12v through your camp or you can use an inverter and wire the house for 110. If you do that, then you will want to be extra careful about the wattage and bulb type you use. They also make a type of Propane fridge that I hear works quite well. For more research on these and other things try doing a google search for "off the grid" living.
For heat, I would build passive solar into the works and make sure you have an airtight and fuel efficent stove like a Jotul. The more you can control the burn on a stove the more efficient they are and the Scandanavians are terribly good at producing good stoves. Insulate the hell out the place and make sure the house has suitable windbreaks around it and it will surprise you with how cozy a camp can be.

My former boss is planning on retiring to his sailboat, so, I've had some exposure to stuff that runs on 12V.

Basically, however, it's probably not worth it. Power inverters are so cheap nowadays, and very efficient, and to get any signifigant power out of 12V, you need to run some very heavy (Thus expensive) cable to go any distance at all.

So, you get a variety of DC power sources, windmills, solar panels and whatnot, set them up, and a large bank of 12V deep cycle batteries. The bigger the battery bank, the fewer problems that you'll have in the long run. It won't be cheap for initial setup, but you can have a lot of the comforts of home that way.

One of the primary problems with lead-acid batteries is CHARGING them. I mean it's simple enough in a situation (like a car) where you're constantly using power, but generating even more, so the battery hardly every gets run down, but in a case where you have (and need) deep cycle batteries, charging them becomes more of a problem. There are regulators designed for the task which work very very well, and help maximise battery life. They cost a bit, but will save you more in the long run.

The largst power consumer in a typical home is refrigeration. Refrigerators on boats tend to be like home freezers, opening on top. Same with campers and other "low power" refrigerators. This is simply because this design doesn't dump all the cold air out every time you open it, and is thus more efficient. Less convenient, but more efficient. There are propane powered refrigerators out there. They work quite well, actually. The ones for campers depend on the camper moving once in a while, so probably not the best choice for a cabin, but there are other alternatives.

Heat is another power consumer. Something that burns propane, kerosene/diesel, or even wood-burning is your best bet for heat. Propane is convenient because you can use it for everything from hot water to barbecueing, though you can get kerosene stoves which also work well. Kerosene/diesel is a much SAFER fuel.

This is info on wiring a Solar house, it was taken from the Backwoods Solar website :

Wiring a New House for Solar Electricity

This information is for those who are already skilled at house wiring and need to have a list of changes to consider in an independent power home. This page does not teach house wiring skills. If you need a professional electrician, in some states we can recommend licensed electricians familiar with solar installation. Please go to our Solar Helpers Page. Otherwise print out the advice below and give it to any licensed electrician who is wiring your home.

Independent powered homes use standard 120 volt AC wiring just like any city home. But with independent power, you will need a few extra wires. Some will bring solar, wind, or hydro generated power from outside to the battery area. Extra equipment in the house, like a battery meter and generator start/stop switch will need wiring. And to save power, you will have more than the usual number of wall switches to control many local task lights. Extra wall switches also control AC outlets so any appliances that steal your power even when they are turned off can be cut off dead by the switch. Perhaps you will need a few low voltage outlets for some energy saving DC appliances like phone message machine, fans, special refrigerator, or pump.

While planning your unique home, don't forget outlets outside. Summer is when solar electric homes have lots of extra free power, so you may want an electric lawn mower and weed eater or fountain pump. You might want light and power in a shed or detached garage, for power tools, or an emergency battery charger to start the car. Special 12 volt DC motion sensor lights at each entrance, the woodshed, or the outhouse will light up for you even if the inverter (your AC power source) is in idle mode. Even an outhouse should have its chandelier! Plan ahead and wire for all these needs while you build.

CHECKLIST FOR HOUSE WIRING

* AC BREAKER BOX: The inverter in your power system produces 120 volt AC. Normally no 240 volt AC will be used in the house, only 120 volt AC. So you just feed the same 120 volt hot wire to both legs of the AC breaker box. Since most inverters are limited to 20 to 60 amps maximum output, you don�t need a 200 amp main breaker. Eliminate the expensive main breakers by "back feeding" the entire box through two of the load breakers, one for each "leg" of the breaker box. This passes electrical code.

*

BACK-UP GENERATOR AC WIRING: Power from the generator should go into the power equipment room on a separate wire, (never fed back through the same wire that carries inverter power out to the generator location). Mark this wire generator direct. This will supply power directly from the generator to the AC IN terminals of standby inverter, and to any special generator direct outlets you might want to add in the power room for other battery chargers. Standby option feature on most inverters (or a separate transfer relay catalog #O-TS30 if the inverter lacks this feature) will automatically switch generator power through to house circuits when the generator runs. When the generator is shut down, household circuits automatically switch back to inverter power. Never connect the generator output directly to the house circuit breaker box if inverter power is connected there.
*

You may also want to run a generator direct wire to its own outlet in the garage, or shop. Here you plug in battery chargers which should run only from generator power, as well as a welder, air compressor, or other items the inverter is not large enough to run. Also run a generator direct line for any 220 volt power you might use directly from the generator, like a very deep well pump. No need for separate generator and inverter wiring elsewhere in your home, because generator power automatically comes through all the regular wiring when the generator runs.

LIGHTING IS MORE EFFECTIVE WITH LESS POWER if you have lots of local area "task" lights. Use 15 watt fluorescent lights under cabinets to be close to the kitchen counter and in workshops. Put each wall or ceiling light on it's own wall switch so you can select lighting precisely where it is needed. More, smaller lights use less power with more lighting options than a large central light.

* Timer light switches are great for lights often turned on and then forgotten, as in children's rooms, closets, stair wells, and particularly outdoor lights. The tap of a button or a wind up timer starts the light and sets the time anywhere from a few seconds to an hour, then the light goes out. The timers help keep the peace if lights are often forgotten and carelessly left burning.

* Motion sensing lights outdoors are great for arrival and departure. Most AC time and motion sensing switches work with inverters, but only if the inverter is running, not in search mode. We offer DC light timers and motion sensors that are on duty all night with almost no power used.
*

Light dimmers should not be used unless you have a sine wave inverter. And to date, most compact and other fluorescent bulbs cannot be dimmed.



SPECIAL PURPOSE 12 or 24 VOLT DC CIRCUITS
Plan a few DC circuits in the house for items that have great energy saving advantage using DC power direct from your battery. One DC circuit to each room is usually enough for "low power, long hour" applications: recharging flashlights and cordless tools, doorbell, intercom, phone answer machine, cordless phone, 2 way radio, desk calculator, or portable stereo. Some energy saving refrigerators, especially small ones, are DC powered, also water pumps, and ceiling fans may also need a DC circuit. DC hot water circulating pumps are used for floor heat systems, water-bed heating, or compost toilet heating. You may want DC circuits to front door or outdoor motion sensing lights so they can operate whether the AC power inverter is active or not.

DC OUTLETS are not standardized. Beware the old RV cigarette lighter plug. They are poor quality, illegal in houses, and will burn. For quality and durable 12 or 24 volt outlets, just use standard 240 volt 20 amp AC outlets. These usually pass code inspection used as DC outlets if there are no actual 240 volt outlets in the same house. They fit the same outlet boxes and same cover plates as regular 120 volt AC outlets, and just as easily attach to Romex wire with a screwdriver. These are listed in our catalog as #O-DC OUTLET and #O-DC PLUG.

To figure the correct wire size to use for 12 and 24 volt DC circuits, use the wire size chart printed with the solar module wiring in our catalog. Generally, use 12 gauge Romex wire up to 35 feet or 10 gauge for runs up to 50 or 60 feet. (Stranded wire and solid wire of the same gauge carry the same ampere rating).

OTHER WIRES TO ADD

* TELEPHONE WIRES should be kept far from your AC power wires. Inverters that are not True SineWave can cause a buzz in the background on your phone if the wires are run beside each other for any length. Use shielded and twisted pair telephone wire with the shield connected to ground to minimize this common noise problem.
* SOLAR MODULE WIRES You will need appropriately sized COPPER wires to bring power from solar modules to the battery / utility area. Our solar mount and wiring catalog page has charts showing the wire gauge to use for various distances for 12, 24, or 48 volt battery.

* POWER MONITOR WIRING You may want a battery monitor meter somewhere in the home other than the battery room. While wiring the house, install some 4 or 6 conductor twisted pair intercom or phone type wire for the remote meters like TriMetric.
* START AND STOP CONTROL FOR GENERATOR will be needed in the house if you get a remote control generator. 4 conductor wire 12 gauge does it.
* AND ALL OTHER usual extras are more difficult to add after the house is built than when the walls are still open: TV antenna cables, extra telephone wires and outlets, speaker wires for stereo, doorbell and intercom or other special wiring.

SOME APPLIANCES STEAL POWER -- EVEN WHEN TURNED OFF

PHANTOM LOADS : Some appliances need to be disconnected from power completely just like pulling the plug, when not in use. Remote control TV, VCR, stereo, and microwave oven, office equipment (computers, fax, etc.) and garage door openers may use a little power 24 hours a day even when switched off! These are called "phantom loads", and taken together, will keep an inverter turned on and waste a large part of your power, if not discovered.

* The cure is to have many of your AC outlets controlled by a wall switch to shut off power completely. This is preferable to pulling the plug every time. In existing houses, just use the outlet strips, (an extension cord with an outlet strip and built in switch) to easily disconnect power robbing items. One strip can switch your whole stereo/TV assortment, or all your computer items together.

To learn the rest of the story that the above was selected from, read the BACKWOODS SOLAR ELECTRIC SYSTEMS solar electric catalog/guidebook, and the other instructional books listed in the catalog.

Also from Backwoods Solar:

Examples for Planning and Sizing a Solar Home System

Remote Home Solar Electric Power Initial Planning Questions-
12 Volts, 24 Volts, or 48 Volts for your batteries?

Battery voltage is difficult to change after your system is built, so choose carefully at the start.Batteries

12 volts is simplest and most standard, used in vehicles, RV, and boats. If you want a small simple power system, 12 volts will probably be easiest. You can use 12 volt DC directly in very small systems, adding 120 volt AC with an inverter.

24 volts battery systems have some technical advantage. SYSTEM SIZE: If you think you will have more than 1000 watts of solar modules, consider 24 volts. A technical advantage is that 24 volt wires can run longer distances. If you must place solar modules over 100 feet from the house for adequate sun exposure, or if your wind generator or hydropower is over 300 feet away, choose 24 volts. Most of your power will be changed to 120 volt AC power. Voltage converters are available to run 12 volt DC equipment from 24 volt batteries.

48 volts has great advantage if longer wire run is unavoidable to reach the only good solar location, up to 400 feet from the house, or hydro turbine 1,000 feet from the house. Presently there is limited selection of 48 volt charge controls and inverters, but these are the best quality, well suited for larger power systems. Voltage converters are available to run 12 volt DC equipment from 48 volt batteries.

Charge controls by Outback Power Products and Blue Sky Energy can charge a 12 or 24 volt battery from a 48 volt solar array. With these, power systems of any battery voltage can reach longer distances to place solar modules in the best sun location.

Separate Components or a Power Center?

A prefabricated power center is the other choice to decide on at the outset. This costs a little more than separate hardware and components of equal quality, but can save as much in cost of design and installation. You get a clean, safe electric system with just 3 components in the power room: inverter/standby charger, a power center with charge control , and the batteries. A power center may be the only way to pass your local building code inspection. Consider your long term goals. Separate components are suitable for smaller systems, and may allow budgeting for an additional solar module. But where you will be adding on, increasing the power of your system over the years, a power center approach is safer, neater, makes expansion easy, and passes building and electrical codes.

LET�S BEGIN finding the right size and cost for your power system.
The exact sizing of solar is not terribly risky, since solar modules can be added any time, and since a backup generator can supplement charging if there is a shortfall. There is some flexibility because the power you receive varies with the sunshine of each year and with seasonal changes in weather. Your own flexibility in energy usage, plus use of a backup generator allows you to adapt to temporary shortages, while the automatic charge control manages any overproduction.

We caution against the temptation to start with generator, batteries and inverter, but postpone solar modules until later. If you can, start with enough solar modules required to do the job, since this is where most of your power originates. If budget requires, perhaps start with half or a third of the panels, and add the rest in subsequent years. This will help avoid battery problems and save many generator hours. Solar charging is what made home power systems practical! Solar power is modular. When the family grows or the cabin becomes a full time home, you add more solar modules. If you need to upgrade a charge control or AC inverter, Backwoods Solar takes your trade-in if originally purchased here. But two things are more permanent decisions: choice of battery voltage, and selection of a Powercenter. Consider your long term objective in making these decisions.

With this flexibility, several methods of estimation can give a close idea of what equipment you need.

1. SIX EXAMPLES of power systems from smallest to largest are described and priced at the end of this page. Choose from these balanced and expandable designs for the FASTEST way to a good starting point.

2. CALCULATE how many watt hours you will need, then find the number of solar modules to produce that much power in your climate. The method is best learned from one of the books we sell, which contain worksheets and instructions.

3. VISIT INDEPENDENTLY POWERED HOMES in your area. Notice what works for folks with life-style, family size, home, and climate like yours. The amount of electricity needed depends on the number of people in the house, their hobbies, business activities and conservation habits. Ask about their use of special energy saving appliances.

4. CALL/WRITE US AT BACKWOODS SOLAR. We will be glad to personally help you estimate your power and solar equipment needs. Write, call, or visit with us to discuss your life-style needs and suggest a power system.

Six Examples of Home Power Systems of Different Sizes

The six examples below are not packaged kits, but flexible suggestions to find your starting point easily. These examples fit six different levels of life-style or budget. Most people shopping at Backwoods solar fit in example #2 through #5. Each example shows the cost and the watts of solar modules required in a northern US climate. Each is a well balanced system, but still gives a range of choices in quality. It's easy to use one of the examples or make small changes for your own needs. Prices include mounts for the solar modules and cables for batteries and inverter where required, but these items may vary with each installation.

The solar watts recommended are calculated for the northern US, and are about 60% higher than needed in the desert Southwest or the Caribbean. In really sunny climates, you can use the equipment list and cost from one example, and expect to receive benefits more like the next larger example.

Solar modules range from under 50 to over 100 watts each. Examples are based on total watts of solar modules installed, which applies to all sizes of solar modules or any system voltage.

Backup generators cost from $400 to $9000. Many of our customers already own one. This cost is NOT added to the total in the examples, and you may need to allow for purchase of a backup generator.

Back to the Top


#1 STARTER SOLAR POWER SYSTEM
$1000 to $3800
PRODUCES ABOUT 0.25 - 1.0 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

Minimum solar power for a small cabin, motor home, boat, or weekend retreat. A very conserving person can start with 60 to 120 watts of solar, to power a few 12 volt lights and stereo. Closer to 240 watts of solar allows lots more lights, a 12 volt TV, 12 volt pumped water pressure system and a small inverter for some power tools. Northern winter weather requires backup charging with a generator. One or two pairs of 6 volt deep cycle golf cart batteries make a 12 volt set.

SOLAR 65-260 WATTS (one Kyocera KC65 up to two Kyocera KC130s & mounts)
CHARGE CONTROL (C-12 or SCI Mark 22 plus fusing)
BATTERIES: (2 or 4 Trojan T-105 & cables)
DC BREAKER BOX (QO612 with two 20 amp breakers)
INVERTER: (None; or any unit up to Xantrex DR1512, cables & fuse)
Add Battery Booster engine/alternator kit, or Honda EU3000 AC generator.

#2 CONSERVING COTTAGE
$4000 to $6500
PRODUCES ABOUT 1.5 TO 2.0 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

Cottage power system runs high efficiency lighting, TV, stereo, & DC water pumping. The AC power inverter runs color TV, VCR or satellite receiver, stereo; and limited use of vacuum, sewing machine, hand held power tools, computer, blender, DC powered deep well pump. An AC generator is used for large appliances like clothes washer, AC deep well pump, or a table saw, and it charges the battery at the same time. Battery is usually 12 volt but can be 24 if expansion is intended.

SOLAR 340 - 520 WATTS (four KC85 or four KC130, & mounts)
CHARGE CONTROL: (Xantrex C40DD or Morningstar Tristar 45DD)
METERS: (TriMetric Battery Meter, optional but recommended)*
HARDWARE: (solar and inverter fuses, and connecting wires as needed)*
*(consider a power center kit instead of the two lines above)
BATTERIES: (4 to 6 Trojan T-105, & cables)
INVERTER/CHARGER: (Xantrex DR1512 or DR2412 and cables)
Recommended generator: Honda EU3000

#3 CONSERVING SMALL FAMILY HOME
$7500 to $9500
PRODUCES ABOUT 3 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

Year round home for 1 to 3 people. Provides 120 volt AC power for lighting, vacuum, washer, kitchen appliances & microwave. DC or 120 volt AC well pump, color TV, VCR, satellite receiver, stereo, computer, and hand-held power tools. There can be enough power for a small DC refrigerator in southern climates. In northern winters, the generator supplements battery charging while doing laundry. This system could be set up with either 12 or 24 volt battery.

SOLAR 780 WATTS: (six Kyocera KC130 modules on pole mount)
POWERCENTER: (with charge control and cables)
BATTERIES: (8 T105 or 4 Trojan L-16HC, & cables)
INVERTER/CHARGER: (any 1500 watt to 2500 watt)
Or consider complete pre-fab Outback Flexware 500 Power System
Recommended Generator: Honda EU6500 or Kohler 10ERG

#4 ACTIVE FAMILY SOLAR HOME
$10,000 to $15,500
PRODUCES ABOUT 4.5 KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

More power suitable for a family of 3 or 4, or home office. The Backwoods Solar home and business started 1000 watts solar. This covers all of example #3 plus power for a SUNFROST refrigerator and energy efficient chest freezer, and extensive computer or TV use. Washing machine and 120 volt well pump run from inverter AC, with generator backup if winter is extended overcast. 24 volt battery is recommended especially if future expansion is planned to example #5.
For 24 volt remember to order solar modules in multiples of two, 6-volt batteries in multiples of 4.

SOLAR 1040 WATTS: (eight KC130 watt modules on pole mounts, & wiring)
POWERCENTER: (with charge control and cables)
BATTERIES: (8 to 12 Trojan L-16HC)
INVERTER/CHARGER: (2000 to 4000 watt, true sine wave preferred)
Or consider complete pre-fab Outback Flexware 500 Power System
Recommended Generator: Honda EU6500 or Kohler 10ERG

#5 LARGE HOME / SMALL BUSINESS
$18,000 to $28,000
PRODUCES ABOUT 10 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

When Backwoods was off-grid, we ran 4 computers 10 hours a day, 3 answering machines, fax, 3 wireless phones, office and stockroom lights, work bench and shop tools. We also had all the usual residential power described in example #4, including several solar electric design refrigerators. A true Sine Wave inverter runs washing machines and power tools. Stereos, ceiling fans and appliances don�t hum. Includes automatic generator start as batteries or loads require. Battery voltage of 24 volt or 48 volt is recommended. 24 volt battery bank requires 6-volt batteries set up in multiples of 4, while 48 volt requires multiples of 8. This is simplified by factory assembled equipment.

SOLAR 2080 WATTS: (sixteen KC130 watt modules on two mounts of eight)
BATTERIES: (12 - 16 Trojan L-16HC or larger Surrettes, and cables)
OUTBACK Flexware 500 POWER SYSTEM: with 1 or 2 inverters
Recommended Generator: Kohler 10ERG

#6 HIGHER POWER SYSTEM
$28,500 to $38,000+
PRODUCES ABOUT 15 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

Quality plus higher power for a very large family home and business, cottage industry, art studio, or shop. Backwoods Solar home and business eventually upgraded to 3,000 watts of solar to relieve our sun-less winter power shortage, and reduce generator running time. Resulting summer surplus allows a small window air conditioner during peak sun hours. True sine wave 7,000 watts of AC power with both 120 and 240volts AC. Battery voltage of 24 volt or 48 volt is recommended. 24 volt battery bank requires 6-volt batteries set up in multiples of 4, while 48 volt requires multiples of 8. This is simplified by factory assembled equipment.

SOLAR 3120 WATTS: (twenty-four KC130 watt modules on 3 mounts of 8)
BATTERIES: (16 - 24 Trojan L-16HC or larger Surrettes, & cables)
OUTBACK Flexware 500 POWER SYSTEM with 2 inverters
Recommended Generator: Kohler 10ERG

Thanks for the information guys. Lots of stuff to read up on.

I would like to make it upgradeable. Start with a little and year by year add on. My plan is to eventually live there full time off grid.

Before you invest, take the time to read a few books about it. Its seriously worth it to read about people's actual experiences too. I see a lot of stories where they had to switch gears midstream because they couldnt upgrade any further.

Seems the avg wind speed in my area is 0-5.6mph. Kinda slow. Wind power might not be the best idea. The only thing is my cabins on the top of a big hill. The wind might be better up there. Idk for sure. Solar might be a better option. But I wouldnt think solar would work great with 2" of snow on the panels.

You should check the site that you intend to place your mill on. Get a few readings. You can always design the mill for lower speeds.
Solar can be a bit of a pain, but a lot of folks say that you can get good sun in the winter once the panels warm up...they are black after all.

A friend of mine is also thoroughly convinced that proper coatings that allow ice and snow to slide off are crucial to good panels.

I would like to go with a combination of solar and wind. But I am unsure weather they work together well. I would think it would be about the same really.

Thats why I say to get to the books written by people who have actually done it. The little tricks and discoveries along the way will help you out tremendously.
I dont see any reason you couldnt do it. Sun is good in OH and the winds can supplement pretty well.

Maybe some pictures of the site? Im willing to venture some opinions if you need them.

SJ

We are planning a hybrid solar-wind-battery system for our Earthship and I've started reading up myself.

For a decent primer covering Wind, Solar and Micro-hydro, but that doesn't go too in depth into any one method I'd recomend The Homeowner's Guide to Renewable Energy by Dan Chiras.

For info about wind power specifically, I'd recommend Wind Energy Basics by Paul Gipe.

For a great all-around green resource, I'd highly recommend the Real Goods Solar Living Source Book. IMO, Its an invaluable resource for anyone looking to break into green living, especially anyone with off-grid aspirations.

Good hunting!

I was wondering. How much would it cost to setup a solar setup that putout 20,000 kwh of electric every month? My parents own a business and the service coming in is 3phase 220 and they avg about 18,000kwh every month. I was talking to him and he asked me how much it would cost to install something like this.

Expen$ive!

I'm assuming you mean 20,000w or 20kw, not 20,000kw...

According to Backwoods Solar as quoted above:

#6 HIGHER POWER SYSTEM
$28,500 to $38,000+
PRODUCES ABOUT 15 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY

Quality plus higher power for a very large family home and business, cottage industry, art studio, or shop. Backwoods Solar home and business eventually upgraded to 3,000 watts of solar to relieve our sun-less winter power shortage, and reduce generator running time. Resulting summer surplus allows a small window air conditioner during peak sun hours. True sine wave 7,000 watts of AC power with both 120 and 240volts AC. Battery voltage of 24 volt or 48 volt is recommended. 24 volt battery bank requires 6-volt batteries set up in multiples of 4, while 48 volt requires multiples of 8. This is simplified by factory assembled equipment.

SOLAR 3120 WATTS: (twenty-four KC130 watt modules on 3 mounts of 8)
BATTERIES: (16 - 24 Trojan L-16HC or larger Surrettes, & cables)
OUTBACK Flexware 500 POWER SYSTEM with 2 inverters
Recommended Generator: Kohler 10ERG

And that's only 15kw!

Ya I was meaning 20kw. So what do you think. Something like 50k-60k?

Sounds about right...

That aint that bad really. pay for its self in 4 years. They pay 15000$ in a year in electric. And after that they are saving alot. Over 10 years. your saving 90k minus anything needed to be added but you are still saving money.

Hey I thought we are all DIY types here you should check out this site http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Wind/wind.htm lots of cool stuff there. I wish I lived where I could build my own wind turbine but small towns dont like a bunch of towers in your back yard. Good luck to you though.

where in ohio is your cabin? i live in central ohio, north of columbus....i would think solar here wouldnt do well....we dont get THAT many days of sunlight, compared to other states.

About 30 mins directly south of Canton. New Philadelphia. I was talking more of wind than solar.

This doesn't sound right..you might want to go looking for solar calculators online. I only use 1500kwH a month and the systems it tells me I need for 100% output are 10K to 12K systems in the $50K range. For 20,000kwH it's going to be super expensive.

For example, the system shown above:

#6 HIGHER POWER SYSTEM
$28,500 to $38,000+
PRODUCES ABOUT 15 USABLE KILOWATT-HOURS ON A SUNNY DAY


only gives 15 kwH on a sunny day. For my little 1500 sq. ft. house I need about 40 KWH per day (1200kwH avg. per month / 30).
So you would need 650+ kwH per day (20,000kwH avg. / 30 = 666.66...)

I'd love to see the day when joe average could provide all his power via solar/wind but as of this point in time the cost is just too prohibitive.

Solar or Wind generation is rarely econonical on a small scale, unless it's for an off grid cottage or something. In a cottage, energy can be stored all week and used on the weekends. Going green is a nice concept, but if you think you can save money by doing it without changing your entire life-style, then your fooling yourself. Try converting to energy saving appliances, and turning more things off is a far better way of saving money and reducing your energy foot-print.

Still, money isn't the only motivator. It's those few brave (or fool hardy) souls, who will eventually blaze a trail for future improvement in our energy grids.

Actually, he was saying 20kwh per month..so let's say 30 days in a month, 0.667 kwh per day.. at 5 hours of charging per day, that is 133 watts of solar power needed. So, system one would do it. Probably less than $1500

20kwh per month would be 50x less than the average residential electrical load (1000kwh per month). If this business is running more than a few light bulbs it will consume more electricity than this.

nice...i live in Mt Vernon...