When taking apart my old projector I found the following -

The ballast still works. Was running last night for several hours. Other than new wires and cleaning up the connections. What should I do? What dangers do I run?

There has been a fan cooling the ballast. Not sure what else to do.

1. The ballast IS compatible with the lamp - correct? You're not overdriving or sumpin?
2. I assume those are the lamp leads which are self-destructing?
3. Ensure the connectors and wires are rated for the current they are carrying!
4. Once you've covered 1 through 3 maybe consider soldering them? But they shouldn't be overheating like that.

Bought the ballast, lamp and the leads from Jonjandran - so, I assume it's all compatible.

The wires are the ones which feed the power to the ballast.

Is there any danger in continuing to use the ballast - assuming I figure out why it overheated?

What gauge and type wires and connectors are you using?

I'd say there's no immediate danger as you've just been - I'd guess - starving the ballast a bit for the power it wants.

I suggest beefing up both the supply wiring and connectors - ensure the connectors are rated for at least a few amps @ 125VAC. For the wire use like 16 gauge or better? Do you plug the ballast into the mains directly or do you have a power strip in your projector you tap into? JJ should eventually show up and maybe will know immediately what's up here as he may be much more intimately familiar with your whole setup?

Definitely beef up those connectors as that's where the choke seems to be.

Great - will do. Also curious as to what JJ says 'cuz he's the man on this topic.

Again, switch those connectors to something definitely rated for your load. Also, make certain the integrity of those male lugs haven't been compromised by the overheating. You may have to re-solder them but I hope the dang solder didn't melt!

Weren't you having some odd problems with your ballast shutting down????

Yeah, I was, but that stopped when I put a fan on it. Wonder if that was mere band aid on a bigger problem. Here's some more pics of the ballast and the wires feeding it.

It looks like there is some serious arcing going on.

I would upgrade the wire to the next lowest gauge. Also new connectors, and crimp them tightly so they are really tight on the ballast posts.

Also you probably want to re-solder those posts just in case they have a cold solder joint now.

Other than that my guess would be overheating, which you have solved that problem.

What is the next lowest gauge? I am in illiterate in these thing. New connectors on the wires, I assume - any type in particular?


Soldering - youch. Let's hope that's not necessary. I don't have the ability to do that. Hopefully, I have a friend who does. If I do solder, what type of solder do I use?


Thanks for your help.

AWG is I think "american wire gauge" what he means when he says go to a lower wire guage is that as the lower the wire guage number the thicker it gets or better thats my 2 cents

this thing is cool http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Wire_gauge_(PSF).png

I'd say 14 gauge or 12 gauge.

Rosin Core solder.

Same connectors just newer and less crusty

And make sure they attach tightly to the ballast and don't wiggle around causing arcing.

Excellent - thank you both!

The blister pack holding the connectors should clearly have on it the rating of the connector. If in doubt ask the salesperson who'll just stare blankly at you.

My guess would be it was a dodgy connector. If the connector doesn’t make a tight contact there will be some resistance. And where there is resistance there will be heat. And if the right conditions are in place more heat can make the connector even looser and so more resistance. Then the connector will start to arc slightly and leave carbon deposits with creates even more resistance and heat.
The other possibility is than it simply is drawing to much current, faulty circuit perhaps. But it only seems to be affecting one terminal so that's less likely.

DJ

OK, I may be the biggest idiot on the boards -

I think I had one of the input lines going to a receiver rated for 115volts. The one with the scorching is post number 1 with 115v next to it. I should have the power inputs on posts 2 and 3, right? Ug.

That may have done it.
It looks to me as though one wire should go to pin 3 and the other to pin 2 for 230V. Or one wire to pin 3 and the other to pin 1 and pin 2 for 115V ???

DJ

yeah, i don't get the 115. IM'd JJ. So, hopefully, he'll clear it up.

So you want to run it at 220v ? You aren't running it at 120v?

I just need to know which pins I should have been hooked up to. I don't know how to answer your question.

The best I can see from my old Ask Projector picis it is pin 1 and 3

I was using 1 & 2. That might make a difference.

Odd. Is there a 110/220 switch on the unit somewhere??? Well . . . 115/230. Or might it auto-switch with power to pins 1 & 3? If it's from Germany then it's just too clever is all. Screw up an American every time!!!

@&@%#&#! Germans! No, wait. I'm interviewing for a job in Berlin next week (true).

<phonetics on>

Auk doo leeber!!!

<phonetics off>

Ok, where do I buy these connectors? I've been to Radio Shock, Home Depot, Grainger, Lowes and Key Electrical Supply and no one has them.

Car Stereo Installation shops.

And I think you didn't look in the right place at Lowes, I see them in the electric aisle all the time.

They have the basic quick disconnects, but none this small. I spent a fun afternoon looking at these doodads and seeing if they fit. lol. So, is it ok if it's slightly bigger and not insulated on the tip?

You just need a SOLID connection. If it's "dodgy" (in DAZZ-speak) then you can get into the kinda trouble you have in the past. It is, of course, best to find the proper connector for the job. You need a goodly amount of surface area contacting as well.

Ok, found a neat place in Houston called the Electronic Parts Outpost on Fondren.

How's this look?

t

Didja clean that terminal real good prior to cramming that connector on? Even pushing it in and out and in and out and in and out . . . whoa, getting a bit excited there . . . will help to clean off any crud and achieve a better connection.

I'd wager your problems are over. At least concerning those connections.

I took a piece of very mild abrasive paper that I use to build models and "sanded" off the connector and the base. It was black before I started and is now a nice metallic grey.

Hope this does. Now, I just have to finish it. You'd think it'd get easier on the third darned projector!

Obsessive compulsive masochist.