Hello All,

I have been with lumenlab for a while but keep losing my old screen name.
I have designed what I think will be an awesome projector. I have been planning it for years
but havent found the time, or the stress calm enough to start. I have generated some computer graphics on what I want
it to be. I wanted to use a 7 inch lcd, but cant find a universal controller for it. I gutted it out of a Sungale pd-701 portable DVD
player when it stopped working. Any ideas on one with s-video as well as bga connections?
if not, I will just use my 19" widescreen lcd monitor I got from a contest at work.
I also could use some advise on if the 19" fresnel will work on this. I want it to look like a
a diguised dresser or end table with fake drawers, just so its not an eyesore. Enjoy!!
biggrin.gif

Click to view attachment


More pics of it....

Click to view attachment

it might be a weird looking fake dresser but I love the idea. just wondering how you are gonna make the mirror portion stay up are you gonna have a stand like a car hood?

Well, I was thinking a a brass locking hinge similar to an old phonograph player or
like you said a car hood. I am glad you like it!! I did the inevitable and gutted my 19"
widescreen today and I discovered that if you take the backlight apart as well, it
comes with a thin fresnel lense the exact size of the lcd!! I would have to mount it up against a seperate piece of glass because
it is sooo thin. but I safely got all the components out and the lcd is intact. **Thank god***
I wanted it like this so that way it doesnt look like an eyesore and has a seperate use when not being used, like a lamp stand.
My wife is very particular about the furniture. She loves it and keeps bugging me to make sure I am working on it.

Those sheets aren't actually fresnel lenses. They're "diffusers" which take the backlight light and make it softer and more even. For a projector they do not have any use (they are cool though aren't they?).

Remember in your design that the LCD's PCB will be "inside" your cabinet (not near the door) and your controller board will probably need to mount on the "back" wall. This is to get the "right/left" projection correct. You'll also need to flip your LCD with the PCB on the lamp side because you're using a folded design. You may want to lay the PCB out flat (instead of at 90 degrees) so you can route your airflow around the LCD and fresnels and draw the cooling air intake from the back of the cabinet and block light spillage. This makes for a deeper cabinet, but should be OK.

The renderings are nice and it's best to work from drawings. We've seen many "gerry-rigged" enclosures because people miscalculated the widths due to things like centering the bulb, etc. Your FS mirror need not be the same size as the lid; just big enough to capture the projection beam. This should cut on expense and weight of the lid.

Good luck!

Its all good. I thought I was going to save a buck. But I see what you mean. Fresnels have the rounded cuts.
They are cool though

Thats fantastic advise!!! Thank you very much! I will definately do the LCD PCB up that way. I will add an inch or 2 to the depth of the cabinet for airflow. its ok if its deeper, I havent started making the cabinet yet, getting the wood. So I am glad for your advise before I started the build.
I am in need of 220mm fresnel and 320mm fresnel the length of this screen. any idea as to what would work?

I also gutted a sharvision LCD projector which operated on CRT rgb lenses instead of 1 lcd. It had 3 120mm fans and a killer
150mm Focusing triplet lens which can be manuall cranked for focusing or I can still hookup the motor with a adjuster so it can be
used for electric focus. I am just glad because of this projector, I just cut my parts list in half. With my LCD successfully gutted also,
My list is that much smaller. I just need fresnels 1/8th tempered glass, Wood, mirror, and aluminum insulation for electrical components. unless you guys can think of anything else?

Any suggestions welcome!

Be aware that the 150mm triplet lens will only be able to work with an LCD that is the same size as the one that was in the Sharpvision originally. It won't work with a larger Lcd. Also you would need a 150mm fresnel which I have yet to see.

Sorry, its a 106-168mm focus triplet small. I wanted to use a 7" lcd from a portable dvd player, but the controller is fried. I tried getting ahold of
the manufacturer to see if he could give me the type of lcd used so I could find a better controller for it but no luck. The 7" would work because the CRT sharpvision
carried 7" lcd's in seperation such as 1 R 1 G 1 B. I figured if the depth from the last fresnel was farther away from the lens, it should triangulate just right into the lens.
and use the focusing shutter so I dont have to cart the projector everywhere.

I found this if it would work:

http://optical-components.globalspec.com/S...&VID=113052

and the specs are:


Product Names Fresnel Lens Type Lens Application Focal Length Lens Specifications:

NT32-594 Positive Visible 152 4.92 1.52 170 Conical grooves,English dimensions,n=1.49,92% transmission @ 400-1100nm

The problem is price, These guys want $80.00 a pop for each lens!!
LOL. They aint getting that from me!!!

I need some help with the lamp.
Is this a good 400w metal hallide bulb? I also started the build and I have pics. I will post them within the next day or two
Ebay Item# 120289508671

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ries%26_fvi%3D1

In my opinion, I would say no. 20,000 Kelvin will probably not have the right color that you want and a CRI of 65 is on the low end. If you're looking for a 400W lamp, try finding one from the Best Bulb Chart.

Need to get those pics up, my mem card reader isnt working. I need some help. I drew this side view of my projection cabinet and
I need to know which side up the LCD needs to be so that way it reflects right on the wall because I know the lenses will flip it.
If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it!!! HELP PLEASE!!!!

Click to view attachment

http://lumenlab.com/wiki/index.php/LCD_direction

Thank you quasi!! I was afraid I placed the lcd wrong.
I finally got my pics up for progress shots

http://f01-f02.mypicturetown.com/P2PwebCmd.../item.jpg?rot=1

http://f01-f02.mypicturetown.com/P2PwebCmd.../item.jpg?rot=1

http://f01-f02.mypicturetown.com/P2PwebCmd.../item.jpg?rot=1

http://f01-f02.mypicturetown.com/P2PwebCmd.../item.jpg?rot=1

http://f01-f02.mypicturetown.com/P2PwebCmd.../item.jpg?rot=1


Let me know what you think

Looks like a good start.

Here's instructions for linking to external pictures (towards the bottom of the first post): How do I upload pictures to the Lumenlab Forum so that I can show them to others?

You might want to think about starting a PLOG, now that you're showing construction progress.

Thanks again Quasi! Here are the pics for all of my progress thus far. Just waiting on my fresnels from LL and my metal hallide bulb. I also got the switches and 12v adapter for poweriing the motors which work great on the projection lens!!!
I am soo happy about the auto focus. I tested it on a 12v battery and both motors for focus and height are working perfectly!! I am wiring them to Double pole double throw switches and mounting them soon. My father in law is joining
in due to extensive experience with complicated circuitry for the lens which helps.

quasi, I have a question. the diagram of the lcd direction shows the light hitting the mirror first then going through
the projection lens. Mine is the reverse which is going thriugh the lens then hitting the mirror. can you give me a light path that would show if it will be different? I trust your expertise on the subject. Can you draw me a light path to see if I need to change direction? Thank you so much!!

Doesn't matter. The mirror can be before or after the lens, and it's exactly the same orientation. Most people put the mirror first, but it doesn't make a difference to the LCD orientation.

I too have that same triplet from an old sharp pj I gutted a few years back. FYI, you can also use AA or even 9volt batteries to move the focus and zoom. I'm looking at your build to see if what you're doing will work with a panel as big as 19"

Victor

I hope so. It seems to be the right fit. If not lI will just get a regular pro lens triplet.
Thanks for the tips. Thats great to know it works with 9v or AA.




Thats great to know! I was getting very worried about it.

Ok I really need help now. got 2 pro fresnels for 19" lcd widescreen from LL today and the length is bigger than my enclosure. what do I do to get them cut? glass shop? hardware store?

You can cut them yourself with a Plex Knife (as suggested by BC here).

The key is to cut the same amount off of the left as the right, and the same amount off the top as the bottom. The idea is that the fresnel rings all converge to a point in the center of the lens. You want to make sure that you cut the same amount off of opposite sides so that the center point stays in the center of the cut-down lens.

There was a nice guide with picture somewhere, but I can't find it right now. However, there is this post that may help.

Thats a relief. I thought I was screwed. Man, I am glad to be apart of this forum. Everyone has been right on the mark.
Its good to know you guys are there to help! Thank you everyone!!

on a `9 inch lcd, what distance in inches do the Fresnels lenses need to be placed? Does the fresnel between the projection lens and lcd need to hug the lcd?

sorry 19 inch not 9

The FocalCalc recommends a distance of 20mm (about 3/4") between the LCD and front fresnel (top, in the case of a vertical). The distance between the LCD and rear fresnel can be anywhere from 10mm to about 30mm. Some people have placed the rear fresnel closer or further, but I think 20mm is the sweet spot. The size of the LCD isn't really relevant. What is important is that you allow cool air to move between the LCD and rear fresnel in order to keep the LCD cool.

Thanks again for your great advise Quasi. You have been a big help with my build and I am most grateful.
I could use some more help on the rig for the fresnel lenses and lcd sandwich. The lenses and lcd are snug against the case on the inside so this is proving to be a challenge. The inside of the case is an exact fit to the lcd and fresnels which I had cut to thje exact size of the lcd. Any ideas? I also need to to find a cheap coil and core ballast. Also, will a 16 amp switch work for fans and light? I have two switches.

If the LCD and fresnels fit too snugly, then this might cause the fresnels to bow and/or the LCD to break due to heat. You might want to cut relief slots (maybe 3 - 4mm wide/deep) to hold the LCD/fresnels and then use 3mm strips of wood to hold the LCD/fresnels (see picture below - click to enlarge). The actual active area of the LCD is smaller than the total size of the LCD, so you might not lose very much of the display.



And I don't know very much about the electrical end, so you'll have to get help for that elsewhere. I really need to finish my wiring!

Okay, I got some new pics for everyone of my progress. I just fabricated the door and fake drawers for the door. A lens mount for the projector lens and been working on the engraving work in the wood, stain and gloss. So far I am very happy with the progress. Here you go!!!









first shot of fabricated drawers on new door.



coming together, placed drawers on new door.



Took the drawers off and stained. The far right engraved with the new GF logo design. and a lot of engrave work.



The new focus mount with lens mounted. Stained and working great so far. Motors are wired with new DpDt
switched to 12v adapter

I would like to take this moment to apologize for my lateness in posting updates. Me and my wife have just welcomed our daughter Rowan!!! It has been an awesome few weeks and I have more inspirational drive for finishing now thanks to them both and my sons.

Woe. great design man. Ive always admired the upright ones. yours is one of the coolest ones ive seen on lumenlab, and i dont think ive seen a 19" so far. very nice

Considering you been building this much, one can only assume you've had success with the sharp lens array and your 19" lcd. That's something I'm very interested in knowing!

Victor

One concern:
Could you restate your triplet and fresnel focal lengths. You said you now have "pro" fresnel a few posts ago. Do you mean you have switched to a pro triplet also or are you just loosely calling a larger sized 330mm fl field fresnel a "pro".

I ask because switching to a 650mm pro fresnel and triplet will add about 13" from the fresnel to the triplet. I was wondering if you allowed for this in building your box.

I bought the 2 pro fresnels for the 19" widescreen and had them cut to length. My box is over 4 1/2 ft in length and is adjustable for the fresnel lengths. 13 inches wont be a problem. I have only purchased the 2 pro lenses

Yes sir!! I have and so far it works great especially with the focus motors working. I dont have to move the whole projector around which is awesome. As long as the focal length is accurate.

[quote name='hoagtech' date='Aug 24 2008, 12:07 AM' post='293525']
Woe. great design man. Ive always admired the upright ones. yours is one of the coolest ones ive seen on lumenlab, and i dont think ive seen a 19" so far. very nice
[/quote
Thank you very much!!! That means alot! I just hope she works as good as she looks!!

hi guys, well this is my first post.... I have been obsessed with this site and the idea of building my own pj ever since I stumbled across some guy doing his own home projector using just an ohp, lcd screen and a fan on youtube!!

From there not sure how I ended up here, I think I must have googled "diy lcd projectors" and the rest is history.... haven't played online games in a week thanks to you lot and your amazing jobs doing it yourselves.

I've just been reading reading reading, I have learnt a lot, considering I started off without a clue about any of these lenses or 780p and i's and resolutions arrrggghhhh

I believe I now have half a clue... but no clue on the wiring, but I figure when I start it and get to the wiring I will get somebody to walk me through it with any luck.... or perhaps wing it and get the electrician to check I've done it right before I flick the switch.... although that whole ballast having power without being plugged in kinda scares me

I read you can ummm, crap can't remember the word now, but it involves using a toaster basically so you don't toast yourself with the ballast .... lol not sure what that meant but I'll check back about that later, before I try the ballast while gripping my toaster between my knees

anyhow, I've had heaps of fun reading in here and if I can just talk my hubby into letting me have a go at it (yeah its not just us wives who are the nay sayers) you'll see me a lot more

reason I chose to post here first is I just have to say, I love the idea of disguising your pj in the draws, thats the one thing that has been putting me off, the size and where to put it in the room.... the high draws look good I think (although not being a craftsman (woman) myself, I figure if I go this way I will just gut an already built chest of draws and then just glue the faces of the draws on to a board for the door....

can't wait to see your end results :-)

Sweetness- so which freshnels worked better? Do you have some test pics of it in action? I have a 17" and now I can finally get a high res diy pj for a very low cost!

Woo hoo! Its great that I didn't throw away this lens array when my Sharp died on me

And do you have the switching diagram and parts to operate the zomm and focus?

Victor

michaela's comment about the toaster thing had me chuckling for a bit. I was certain that she must have been smoking her lunch or something.

So, I did some searching and found this:

Ballast Facts, Faqs And Links, A guide to everything ballast related

And Ballast questions, Split from Ballast, FAQs Facts and Links

But brainchild goes on to say:

lol, you know me so well already... puff puff pass...

ok, so straddling the toaster is definitely out then

touching the caps to the switch of the toaster while it is on... hmmm , oh yeah, I am in australia, if the toaster is plugged in I'm not sure which part you want me to touch with the caps... I'm thinking not the power point.. the toaster only has a lever on it to turn it on

I'm thinking I may need to take a course in electronics or get a sparky to do the wiring for me , I mean I'm sure I'd be able to follow the plan and wire things up, but electricity kinda scares me a little

I will have to draw you a wiring diagram. Its actually very easy. Didnt think it would be.
The fresnels I am using are the 650mm and the 320 pro lenses cut to the exact size of the lcd.
I will draw the wiring diagram and post it Asap

As promised sir, here is the wiring diagram for lens power!!

I am glad that you are happy with my idea and I hope it works well. I wanted to do something that was not an eyesore and looked great with the rest of the furniture because a 19" widescreen projector will take a lot of room. Thats why i wanted such a disguise and so far going according to plan. If you are interested. I can upload my plans once it is completed.

I'm interested!

michaela, just go with an electronic ballast and you'll have no worries.

Sorry, the diagram gave me an issue but here is the wiring iagram again
Ill hook you up wit the design once i finish drafting the plans that build it working with all dimentions after
all the tweaks are done and built.

really, excellent, I had kinda figured on using the electronic one anyway due to the heat coming from the coil ones from what I have read. thanks mate :-)


and yes endrok I am very interested in your design

sorry to push in on your thread endrok but I didn't really want to start a thread till I start getting parts and building

another idea I had that would be very similar to your design endrok but not sure if it would work or not is..... a set of draws or cupboard of sorts, not as high, but have it built kinda like a matchbox, so when you pull on the lid the projector slides up out of the guts of the draws and locks into position during use.....

I did have a smoke before that idea so it could be crap

I am glad that you posted on the thread. Its awesome that your interested in my idea. I am glad I have had such positive feedback on it.

Endrok, thanks for the drawing. Where did you get the switches and how strong/weak a 12v dc adapter did you use?

Victor