3rd build using 10.6 kit from Johnzo, ceramic 150W, SolaBallast, split fresnel, and standard triplet. Objective to minimize size of enclosure and typical placement (on shelf or suspended from ceiling).

Horizontal folded means that panel faces triplet and PCB is on lamp side. Here's LCD sled. Rear fresnel slips into the channels of aluminum window screen. I prefer this because it is inexpensive. cuts easily, and smooth (not likely to scratch the fresnel). Cooling air enters the opening in the side of the LCD frame. First picture is the "rear" side
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Front side with rails to hang front fresnel.
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Pictured next is the ballast, power supply for fan, cooling fan, and thermostatic switch. In the interest of conserving space, I put them all together. The fan pulls air past the lamp and as it exits, it goes past the ballast. Hopefully there will be enough air movement to keep the ballast from getting too hot. I have done passive cooling with the core ballasts with no problems, so active cooling for a core ballast in a tight enclosure should work all right. The fan puts out a lot of volume with fairly low noise. I can adjust the voltage on the transformer to lower the fan speed if needed. First pic is the side "outside" of the lamp.

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Next pic is the lamp side. Terminal strips are for the lamp connections (right side near fan) and the power connections (left side). These connections are on the triplet side of the LCD panel and in the path of the incoming coolant air.

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Next is the shell of the enclosure showing the light engine. It is raised to match the center of the LCD panel. The controller board attaches under the board that the lamp rails are mounted to. The light engine will have forward/back adjustability.

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Full view of shell.

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Next sequence of pics are self-explanatory and show how the power/fan module fits with the LCD sled, mirror, etc. I'm ready to paint the outside pieces now and the final portions will be the panel with the triplet and the lid.

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Birds-eye view:

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Project on back burner.....screen will not power up and can't tell if it is the controller or the panel. Think it's the panel because the LED on OSD panel lights up (using 2A power supply). Johnzo is out of 10.6 screens.

Any ideas on how to debug / revive the panel are most welcome.

When funds become available, will redo sled, etc. to fit 10.9 screen.

Is 2A enough? I recall reading something about low amps, coupled with a bit of fluxuation from your electric company is a quick way to kill a controller.

A 2A Regulated power supply is fine.
I'm using a 1.5A wall wart with my 12.1 and it's fine. You shouldn't really need much more than 1.3A if you're not using the backlight.

so what are the dimensions of this box? and what lenses are you building for? It looks like you're using the standard lenses (220/330) or similar.

Outer dimensions are 25 x 16 x 9. Using standard 220/330 and S15 triplet. Project mothballed because 10.6 panel won't fire up. Don't know if it's controller or LCD. Will probably retrofit with 10.9 LCD when funds become available.