O.K. First off, I was planning on a Star Trek themed PJ. However, the geometry of the shuttle crraft does not lend itself to a 15inch build. I am still planning on doing one, but it will have to be a smaller screen size, and also one that is wide screen.

So anyway, I am going ahead with my 15 inch build, and aiming for a steampunk-esque projector. And here is what I have so far. I am still waiting for my bulb and e-ballast to arrive.

The only other things I have yet to find are the feet for it, and brass trim for the edges of the box.

Forgot to add this stuff:

LL E-ballast
LL Bulb
Standard lens kit
Dell E153Fpb 15 inch monitor
various fans
MDF box

Sorry for all the pics before. I finished the sled last night, and got a bit "snap happy" LOL

The sled was made out of 3/8" square and 1 1/2" X 1/4" wood. I used a total of 6 strips of the 3/8" and two of the 1 1/2".

All the cuts for the fresnel frames were done at 45 degrees, and then just glued and nailed together. I used a 2cm router bit to cut the groove in each piece before cutting them to length. That way all the grooves would line up just right when I went to put it all together. I routed the grooves in a bit to one side so that I would have a very visible marker for which way a fresnel lens was facing when I was doing everything.

I also made each fresnel lens frame with a hinge made out of leather, so that I could take each lens out and clean it if I ever need to. (Or if I melt one. ) The top of the sled if also on a leather hinge so that I can take out the LCD should something go wrong with it.

Each of the fresnel frames is adjustable to allow for fine tuning later. I made each corner adjust independent of the others so that I would have the most flexibility. All i did was used some long machine screws and a bit of lexan I had left over to make the adjusters. For each screw there is a maximum of about 4cm of movement.

The LCD itself is not adjustable, but I figure that everything else will be able to adjust to it. So hopefully no problems there...



I sorta stripped the LCD before I really needed to, but it turned out to not be a really bad thing. I used the bezel that came with the monitor to make the frame for it (also out of the 3/8"). One thing that I had seen done on the forum was to coat the FCCs in silicone to help make them "not so damn fragile". It works GREAT!



Other than all of that, the ballast and the bulb should be here Tuesday, and I should have the box done by Friday. So maybe it will all work.


Oh, and if you see anything GLARINGLY wrong with my build, please speak up and let me know. LOL

It's a shame you had to abandon your Star Trek shuttle design - for now. I was looking forward to seeing that evolve.
I support the theory that members can never have too many pictures of their build.
I like your cloth "hinges" - very creative!

Is this your keystone mechanism, and if so, how does it work?

About your thumbnails... did you upload thumbnails separately and then create the link to the larger images, or does photobucket.com offer this type of service and I haven't seen it yet?
Nix that - I just found the "Generated HTML, Ebay and IMG Code" button. Doh!

I just did a quick little model in Sketchup to show how it works. HERE IT IS

Oh, and the reason there are 3 nuts on each bolt is so that I can tighten them to lock it all down. The middle on is drilled smooth on the inside so that the other two can lock tight and not move each other once I get it right.

Also here is a almost complete model of the projector. Yeah its just a boring box, but I am gonna give it a bunch of pretty shiny stuff when its done. LOL

HERE IS THE MODEL

Nice model!
What kind of wood/finish are you going to use for the outside of the enclosure?

I am thinking of some wood veneer (ebony or chestnut) LINK. Staining the wood a deep warm color, and then using some brass edging for all the edges.

Update: I got the switch plate almost done. All I have left to do to it is mount the buttons and all to the back side. I am still trying to come up with a good idea for the LED on it. I think I might run the LED contacts to a small relay and have trigger some form of vial or something on the outside of the box. Kinda like THIS.

It will be mounted behind the wall of the box with a oval cutout. Just FYI. The nasty edges will be hidden inside the box. LOL

HERE is the model in Sketchup of how the buttons will work.

Here are some pics of the switch plate so far:

This one is sorta out of order, but for some of the guys and girls that it might help to see it...

Here are a few of the fresnel frames before they were finished and painted. Hope it helps:

Good work on your OSD button board! I'm planning on using aluminum push pins that I found at staples, after I cut the pointed tips off.
About the LED light on the button board, I was thinking of using some kind of small, clear plastic cylinder to extend the light to the outside of the OSD panel. The light from the LED should just travel through the cylinder just like fiber optic cable.

Yeah, I had thought about that. The monitor used a system like that originally. I just want to do something a bit closer to "over the top" LOL. I had thought maybe even doing something like some moving gears when the LCD is powered up. I mean, most things use a light to show that they are on, so why couldn't you use motion to do that same thing. Same idea with the relay and all to step up the current, and then a motor, and some gears.

Maybe even something like this, but with the gears moving:



I also found a great light switch cover for the main power switch:

While waiting for the bulb and ballast to get here I figured I would try to figure out the cooling system. I came up with the following.

I figure that the cool air will come in through the lower port, and then the hot air out through the top one. I haven't started building it all yet, so if there is a better idea, please let me know.

Oh, and as you will see in the model, I am going to have the tempered glass totally separate the LCD and fresnels from the light. That way I can cool each side independent of the other. My fan controller has three "zones" that is can monitor, so I figure one for the LCD, on for just the light side of the glass, and then one just at the ballast.



So anyway, let me know if you see something wrong with my idea:

HERE IS THE MODEL

ITS ALL HERE!!! Now after a week of waiting, I can get started on the box. So hopefully I will be throwing an image by Friday!!!

Here are some pics of it all:

wind, I'm using that same lightswitch cover in my build. I was actually working on a steampunk design to

on a side note, are you on the brassgoggles forum? it's a steampunk forum and they'd probably love to see your work.

I love brassgoggles, some of the stuff people are doing over there is Amazing. I dont post over there yet, but I will when I get this PJ done.

On a side note, I modeled the new E-ballast in Sketchup. Hope it helps someone: HERE IS THE MODEL

SORRY FOR THE WRONG DIMENSIONS ON THAT ONE! I fixed it!

After WAY too many Mountain Dews, and poptarts I think I had a good idea. Now, like most of my ideas, this one may turn out to be about as bright as when I tried to poke that badger with a spoon.

So here it is (pic to follow) The idea is to make a chamber just in from of the bulb and before the fresnels that is sealed, and vented to the outside. Sorta like double pane windows, but with a cooling fan for the chamber. Then cool the bulb chamber like normal, and the LCD chamber with its own fan as well. That would add three fans total, but should make for WAAAY better cooling control.

Oh, and a quick one of how I am mounting the buttons to the plate.

Let me know what you think about this idea. The only thing is will the extra lexan effect the lumen output at all? I don't think it will but you never know till you try it. HERE IS THE MODEL of my idea.

ALSO, side note: I have been looking for the member that came up with the bulb adjustment I am using but can't find it. So if you are the one I am thanking you for the idea now. If I find you later on, I will put a blurb somewhere to think you with your name there!

The main reason, I believe, that we want cool air to travel between the LCD and rear fresnel is that most of the light from the lamp that reaches the LCD is turned into heat (I think it's something like 80 - 90%). The rest of the light that passes through I don't think that your revised cooling setup will allow for that heat to be removed from your LCD, which could damage the LCD - especially with a 400W lamp.

I just found this reference:


http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=238179

Oh, yeah I knew that. I have the slot in the top of the box so the air moves down from the top and between the rear fresnel and LCD to move that heat away.

What I didn't know was if the two part rear box setup would negate some of that heat in the first place before it even got to the LCD. My thinking being that the less IR heat that makes it to the LCD the better and longer it will run.

Or and I missing something big here?

Got a bit more done today in between having to run inside to get out of the heat. (101.4 here today, nad above 98 in my shop!!!)

Worked on getting the bulb and ballast sorted out. I was planning on doing the burn in today, but with the heat I only got the bulb holder worked out.

Her is what I got. That should give me four way tilt, and four way (forward/backward, and up/down) adjustment((I need to drill the holes out a bit)), and all in 1cm of space!!! I am happy.

So here she is, oh and not a drop of blood lost today! I am shocked too...






Oh, and since it seems to be tradition here...here is my newest helper...Simon.

Not much more done today other than I figured out how I am going to do the pro-reflector. I thought about a few of the simple non-adjustable ways I have seen it done, and decided to do it with 3-way adjustment. Here is what I am gonna fab up tomorrow. I am thinking of doing it all in aluminum, and just machining the slots and all at the shop in the morning. I would also like to weld up a few cooling fins onto the back of the wire fan cover. I might get some of the stainless sheet metal I have and do those at the shop as well. I will just have to see how crazy things are tomorrow. ((I am also going to get a new table saw first thing so I can get this box buttoned up.))

Here is what I am thinking, and as per usual, please let me know if you see something horrifically wrong with my idea:

Not much to report, but I figured I would go ahead and post what I did get done.

Bought a new table saw, and compound miter saw stand. Spent most of the afternoon getting then all set up and dialed in. Then I cut all the panels for the box. OMG IT HUGE!!! I had thought of the size it would be from the start, but until you see it first hand, you dont realize how big its gonna be.

I was wanting something a bit smaller, but hey that is what the next build is for right?

So tomorrow is the firing of the bulb and the building of the box. I am hoping to have a screen shot to post up tomorrow night. Maybe not a great screen shot, but something! LOL

I love your plans and diagrams.

Since I've just started my own project, I hope you don't mind if I borrow liberally from yours.

Go for it. I am going to add the full plans to this PLOG when I get totally done with it. That way people can just download then and have a really good idea of what I did.

O.K. Didn't get to the point of a screen shot, but I got a lot done today. Got the box all together and painted. Had a bit of a SNAFU with the piano hinge. I mounted it not remembering that I was using 1/2 inch MDF, not 3/4. So I had to change the way I was gonna mount the lid. It all worked out, but not 100% as I had in my head. ((Side note kids: That is what happens when you work in 94 degree heat)) I also got the clasps that hold the lid tight on.

When I was at HomeDepot I got a neat little idea for the reflector mount. I got one of those joist mount thingys (yes that is the technical term for them). Then I cut it to size and I should be able to weld a small plate onto it and then mount the reflector holder onto it. That would allow for right and left adjustment, and then have the up and down where it mounts to the box. I will post more pics when I get it done.

Also got my temp probe. I think I am just gonna mount it right near the display controls. Also gonna paint it to look like brass to keep with the theme.

Heat sheilding done for the most part. Just some aluminum flashing, and rivets. Nothing too flashy. (sorry bad one I know. I had to)

Got a good bit done today. Still not finished working for the night though. So I might post a few more pics later.

Got the triplet ring almost done. It is leather glued to lexan. I am using SamuraiJack's triplet idea. ((HERE)) The ring I am makig is to hide the extra cut out around the triplet. I painted the lexan with a few coats of flat black so that it doesn't light up when the PJ is on. As for the leather, I am thinking of hardening it with beeswax before mounting the lens and all in it. Reason being, when the PJ heats up a bit I will get that great beeswax smell.

I also got the focus box rails in place, and moving well. Now I just have to figure out what I am gonna do for the dial to make it move in and out. I am thinking of some kinda four gear and chain setup. Have the gears on the outside of the PJ in keeping with the steampunk theme.

So yeah, here are the pics:

Here are the focus rails:




QUICK QUESTION:

The connector circled- Can I make an extension for this connector? Scratch that, I know I have the skills, but with it being the main power input would an extension of say 12 inches add any weird interference or an impedance problem???

Quick update: I had a 8 foot 16-pin cable I had made for my old car system. So I just shortened it and am gonna try it out in the A.M. ((Well, seeing as how its 3:45 in the morning, it will most likley be in the later P.M. ))

Mini-Update:

Got the lens holder all figured out. I decided to go with the shower drain idea that many of our members have used. I found on in town for about $5. ((Side note: Ace Hardware wanted $12 for the same thing.)) I just used my Rotozip and the trusty Dremel to carve out some small parts of it that were in the way. Then I used a drum snader to feather in inside edge to allow for a but more light.

I thought that it would cut off the corners a bit, but from what I can tell, its not going to. However, as Quasi pointed out, it does not allow for the full 50mm of travel that is recommended. But I figure that I will make up for that part of the focus range with the idea I am working on for the feet for this thing.

Here are some pics:

Another quick update:

What do you get when take a ballast, a bulb, a bathtub, and a welding hood?

A BURNING BULB!!!

It fired right up, and it was really neat watching it get up to power. (And yes I was fully protected from the bright bright light.)

Here she is: (Image taken through my cutting goggles ((Shade 5)) so as not to burn out my camera)

So far the bulb has been burning for about 8.5 hours. The temp 7 inches directly underneath it is a cool 94.2 F. The ballast got a bit hot at around the 6 hour mark, but I just put one of my 120mm fans, and a 9 volt battery on it to keep it cool. So far its kept it right at 85.7(ish) F.

So it all looks good. I am gonna let it burn till I decide to crash for the night. That should give it at least 13-15 hours burn-in time. From what i have read 8 is the minimum, so I should be fine.

Here is a quick pic of the controls all done and ready to install:

Not much to report today. Got the temp probe all painted, and one of the fans that will show painted. Still trying to find some really nice switches for the box. I am looking for some brass light switches (the switch, not the plate), or some old fashioned push button switches. Also need to find some gauges that will look the part. More for looks, but if they measured temp, or the amps the PJ was sucking, that would be nice too.

I need some input on putting the e-ballast in a box. I a thinking that if I can make a box for it that draws air from outside the PJ I can keep it cooler than if it is inside the box and exposed to the bulb. Here is the idea I have so far. The intake would be right up to side of the box, and then an identicle hole would be cut in the box to let it suck air from the side of the box. The 60mm fans I have should move about 12-15 CFM. So is that enough to work with my design for the box?

((I am only asking because I have just enough wood to make it if it will work, but I dont wanna have to buy a whole other sheet of the 5mm stuff.))

Here are the pics:




HERE IS THE SKETCHUP MODEL

Update on the bulb adjuster:

I ****** the pooch big time! I made the box about 1cm too small on the width. The bulb and the adjuster I made will not be centered in the box the way things are right now. I have been working for the last four hours trying to come up with a simple and elegant solution to this problem. So far I have come up with an idea that I think might work. I modeled it in Sketchup. ((HERE IS THE MODEL))

((There are two different ideas in the model. I am thinking of the right hand one.))

I am going to do a quick and dirty setup of it in the A.M. I just hope it works!!!

Also came up with a heatsink idea for the pro-reflector. I am going to try to machine a holder so the heatsink will make full contact with the heatsink. ( I still have to cut the fan guard to fit the front of the reflector)

Here is a quick picture of it:

WHOOOOHOOOOO!!!

I fired it up for the first time tonight. Not with the MH bulb, but with a few CLFs just to make sure that I had everything lined up and that the LCD was still working with the extension I made for it. It was dark, but with a few CFLs I knew not to expect much. I am just stoked that it looked as good as it did. So anyway, happy 4th everyone!

I am gonna go do a shot now and celebrate my small, but well earned victory...

I figured out a VERY simple solution for the bulb adjustment problem. ((The first and easiest is to make the box the right size in the first place)) I found an adapter plate in the lighting department. Just a small mod to it and it should work with the addition of two screws and some luck!

Here is the plate and the mod I need to do to it:



I also found out last night that in making the box too small I now have no way to get the power cord from the LCD to the rear of the box. FUN! However, as I am doing a steampunk style PJ I have another simple solution.

1 length of 1/2 inch copper pipe, and 2 elbow fittings. Run the wire through the copper pipe, and it will look the part even more!

Got a few things done after the sun went to sleep. Got the thermometer and button plate holes cut out, and test fitted everything. Tomorrow I have to get out the router and soften all the edges.



Cut the bulb-base plate thingy. I am going to use the router and make space for the screws so that it will lay flat.


These next ones are of the ballast box I am building into the rear of the box. There are two 60mm fans that will draw in cold air from outside the box, and then vent it outside the box as well. I figure that way I can control the temp of the ballast independent of the bulb and the rest of the box. (( The cords will go out of the box, and not be all bunched up like they are in the picture. I just don't have the cut out done yet. Just FYI))






I do have one question, that I hope someone can answer. The bulb is gonna end up being about 2 inches from the ballast box. Is this going to be an issue for the bulb or the MDF box? The box will have three heavy coats of high temp paint.

Here is a picture of what it is gonna be like:

Flush trim bit + fan hole = BAAAAAD!!! Yeah, I sorta messed that one up. I am going to leave it as is for now, and then when I go to cover the projector I will fill it in and snad it smooth before covering it.




On the plus side, the idea for mounting the bulb is going to work a treat! In the words of Tank Girl "So it aint all bad..."




Also just got all the other stuff with the router done. The button hole is finished for the moment. I would really like to do a brass surround for it, but that will wait till after I get it working, and the covering on it!

I like the copper pipe for the cord! Looking good, the moment you flip a switch and see glorious picture, is a great momeny you will soon experience

^^^ Yeah I just hope I have enough space in the 1/2 inch pipe!

Had a good day today. Went shopping for B-day supplies earlier, then got back to finishing up the PJ. My plan all along was to get it done by my b-da (which is Thursday, but the party is Saturday). So I had better bust my butt to get it up and working.

Anyway, I got the ballast sorted, and I think it came out very well. I am just going to route the two power lines into the box and paint them to match everything else.

For the E-ballast, I went and got some copper screen, and had the leather laying around. Just cut everything to the right size and with a few screws and a staple gun I have the following! (Oh, the fans are not yet attached. I am working on that now.)

Just a quick update:

I got the fans attached. I found a brass rod I had gotten for another steampunk project, and bent it to fit. Then drilled some holes for the two U-bends, and epoxied them in place. Then expoxied the fan board to the rod at the top. That way only the wood and brass are permanent and I can change out anything else as I need to for repairs or whatever.

Here are some pics, and sorry for the low quality. I only had my phone out there with me:

Looking for good brother!

^^^Thanks!

I am ALMOST done! I can taste it. Its kinda salty, with a bit of curry in there somewhere. Maybe some basil too?!?! Anyway, back to the topic at hand.

Got almost all the electronics in. I still have to figure out the cord of the thermostat. It is about 6 feet long. I think I may just tie it up with a ziptie and hide it under some heat shielding. Dont know yet. I have the probe from it right in the middle of the air flow at the bottom of the LCD. That way I get a good reading. The buttons are working great, the video connection went in fairly easy, and the extension I made is working great.








MORE TO COME...

Also got the hinge on, and working. Now the lid will stay up by itself. It also closes really slow with out me having to hold it. Which I figure is a BIG plus since if I happen to drop the lid while closing it, now it won't smack into the box. I am going in the morning to get some suede to cover the box with. Then I need to order some trunk corners, and handles to finish out the look of the box.



Also got the Lexan cut and installed. I can just slide it out anytime I need to, and I have plenty of play for thermal expansion. I used some muffler strapping I had around. I just cut out four small sections and then bent them and screwed them to the box. Worked a treat!

I was in the mood to do a bit more tonight (3A.M.) so I got the ballast mounted to the box, fan in place (Dont really like it yet. Might MOD it a bit more), and the power wire for the LCD through the copper pie and to the rear of the box.

PICS:

How did you get that cord through that small hole?

Looking good!

I cut off the other end. I am going to be wiring everything on terminal strips, so I didn't need the plug end.

I got my switches, fuse holder, and ripped apart a non-working power supply I had for an old Dell to get the power connector.

I am going to be wiring it so that the fans have to be on before the lamp will fire. That way I can turn the lamp off and leave the fans running for 15 or 20 minutes after shutdown. Everything is going "TOO" well so far. This scares me.

Oh, I am going to be making new "On-Off" plates for them out of brass. That way they look older.




I also got the fabric to cover the box with. It is micro-suede, and feels amazing. It looks the part more that I could have hoped for, and I also found two old brass door knobs that are going to be the from feet. If I can find two more I might give it back feet as well. The only things I will have to do later are adding brass trunk corners, and handles. I am hoping to have it up and throwing an image by tonight. Theough the whole thing I said I wnted to have it by my birthday, and since it is tomorrow, I have some work to do. Enjoy the pics!

I GOT SCREENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I got it done at around 11:45 so I made it work by my birthday! I am very happy with the image so far. The only things that I need to do later are:

1. Mount the reflector
2. Align everything a bit better than I have it. (I just eyeballed it tonight to get it up and working)
3. Slide the sled forward just a hair, and keystone the front fresnel a few degrees. (Gotta crunch some numbers to find out how much.

The temp of the box was under 84 the whole time(run time 45 minutes). The top of the box right above the bulb did get VERY HOT!!! SO I am going to figure that one out next week.

Here are three kinda crap screens. I didn't get out the good camera or the tripod. These are just with my Canon Powershot A430

It's quite the exhilarating feeling, isn't it?
I really like that suede material. Can't wait to see it completed.
Great job!