I worked for a couple of years for an outfit that produced scale R/C models, ruined my hobby

I did the fiberglass r&d work and layups along with the vac forming for all kits.
I mostly got involved with them because I wanted to learn the fiberglass mold making part of the hobby. Since I really liked flying scale competition at that time. Did I mention it ruined my hobby?
To do a glass mold right takes a lot of time, money and effort. One off parts badly done takes almost as much effort as quality parts.
For quick and dirty vac molds we used a product called Hardings Hard Rock Water putty. I would first carve the part from a dense urethane foam. Fiberglass the foam then prime and paint with a high temperature paint add whatever detail needed, then vac that part. Then you can use the Hard Rock Water putty for cheep and replaceable molds for that part.
A simple vac table can be made from a piece of 3/4 ply. Drill "X" size hole in the middle of the platen, top, to accept a 90 degree drain fitting that fits your vac hose. Now using a piece of screen door cloth, metal not fiberglass, cut out a piece of screen that fits the top leaving a 1/2" or so lip all around, staple down. The screen material provides the area around your mold to pull the air out from around your mold. Around that lip attach felt weather stripping to provide a seal between your plastic and the top. Block up the top to give you a stable surface and allow for your vac hose attachment.
Make up two frames to sandwich your plastic between. Clamp the plastic between the frames heat up the plastic, your wifes oven will do just fine, until she finds out.

Your plastic should sag at least an inch to an inch and a half.
Turn on your vac, put on your oven mitts, pull the frame with the plastic out of the oven and prepare for suckage!
This may not sound right but thicker plastic will pull better than thinner plastic. The thicker plastic will hold heat longer although the thicker plastic transfers less detail.
Good luck!
And watch it, that plastic's hot! LOL