As a life long hobbyist I love to see new things evolve. In the past, when approaching a project, I have always tried to design it so no parts would need milling or CNC work. I have used a mill and lathe in metals shop many years ago but the idea of a DIY CNC never crossed my mind.

I do find the larger RoBLOKS to be a little big for my shop and the small RoBLOKS looks like it might be a little small.

I did find a company that makes this desktop CNC model.

Click to view attachment

They do have around 5 different models they sell. Some are quite strong with fully supported ways.

This brings up the question of do you need to cut any hard metals? I don't know if even the strongest DIY CNC would be stable enough for steel or stainless steel.

I have read a few blogs and many start out with a light CNC unit and then later they upgrade to a heavier unit.
For now I'm only looking at wood, plastic and aluminum.

The software looks like it will have a steep learning curve too. I will watch to see what all the guys end up using.

I did find this movie from Rino about making a guitar.

http://www.k2cnc.com/videos/GuitarProjectw...thCallouts.html

See it's just that easy.

One thing a CNC will allow is large precise shapes but I'm not sure if I will ever be ready for a project like this one.

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/340548/expanding_table/#

All part of the learning curve.





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Quoting myself: There is a notion that certain materials can't be machined without sufficient force: nonsense! micRo can cut to China given sufficient time. Maybe you've heard of the Chinese-water-torture? The oft rejected emphasis is on time... I mean, if you can "set it and forget it", 8 hours isn't a bad time at all.

If they mean those crappy "hobby CNCs made from MDF and all-thread" then it is easy to see why they'd upgrade...those machines can't hold a useful tolerance except for maybe birdhouses...

To boot, their machine that cuts 14" x 14", without a spindle, bed, software etc, costs: $4379.00

(Without being defensive, seriously) micRo can easily machine up to 2.5" of solid billet alum flat, at 10" x 12" bed, and micRo costs at most(!) $500!

Quote: "This small but yet rigid machine can cut in aluminum given the proper conditions." Haha...moon is waxing? Baby sacrifices are up-to-date?

I was looking at the 14" K2 just because of it's table top size. They list the rails at 20mm, 16mm and 16mm so it is not in the same class as the RoBlocks 35mm system but they are a little larger than the 16mm, 13mm and 10mm of the MicRo mill.You list the 16mm rails a supported for the micro so I would like to see that system someday.

I didn't post a link so as not to promote their product (I may edit the K2 out) but I do like the size and look of their mill. I have no plans on buying one, it's just too much money for what you get.

I was over at my friends last summer milling some 1/2" stainless steel plate on the Bridgeport, I needed two 1/2" x 3" donuts with a 1 1/2" hole in the middle and a chamfered edge for welding onto, and it's amazing how hard it was to work with. We dulled bits and broke a 3/4" end mill bit. I'm glad the bit was from his work because the big carbide ones cost a bunch.

This is basically a brain storming thread on all the different ideas that are involved in deciding what you need and what you need to learn to get started.

My brother has a need for a mill right now and he may buy one fairly shortly but he is only working with plastic so a lighter weight machine might do him fine. I think he said he needs a 14" table but I need to check.

It may be a long time before I jump in to purchase a kit (I read for over a year before I started my PJ) but my shop is too small for the big one and I might want a slightly larger table than the MicRo. I have only come up with a few projects that might be able to do with a CNC but the year is still young.

We'll be selling parts individually, so you can make the bed size what you need.