I am almost through with my 10.6" W - HD LCD projector complete box , light box, fresnel, triplet etc.., Now I am in ther phase of stipping the LCD panel and fitting it, but I am suddenly confused and stopped and seeking you guys help !, ( I am trying to follow Gecko's stripping technique). Becuase I dont want to screw up my panel without knowing what I am doing ! better to stop and ask I thought.

1. My panel is Samsung LTN106W2-L01 (10.6" Wide panel) brand new bought from carpow china.
2. I removed the panel backlight panel (as per Gecko's stripping steps).
3. Then I started to soak the panel's back side with paper towel to remove the backside reflective layer, suddenly my attention went to 6 numbers of loose sheets (refer the attached picture)

1.a translucent sheet.
2.a transparent mirror type sheet.
3.a another transparent mirror type sheet.
4.a translucent sheet.
5.a almost 1.5mm thick transparent sheets with dots.
6.a pure white paper.

which I found behind the LCD panel - lying around, I found these sandwhiched between the glass panel & the backlight frame. And I tried to search the lumenlab forum , again carefully read Gecko's stripping steps again and again , but I have not found any mention that Iam suppose to find these 6 types of sheets !! (ho god suspicion monkey got into my mind !) Why I am not able to find this details in any of the stripping steps ?

4. Is that 3 or 4 sheets i found among the 6 loose sheets has been already stripped by carpow before he shipped me the panel ? (it cant be , because the panel was intact when i removed the screws and backlight frame - but the suspicion monkey is still running around in my mind) becuase if I removed further any sheets from the LCD panel without understanding I might remove some important sheet which I might screw the LCD panel.

SO I STOPPED SOAKING (in 20 min) AND PUT back the panel on to my projector setup but I found the picture was very dark - cannot be veiwed even in a dark room, but focus etc, are all good ( I use 250 watts Metal halide lamp for lighting). so I stopped and RAN TO THIS FORUM FOR help.

Can you help to answer these questions :
1.Am I suppose to find these 6 loose sheets (pl. refer the below picture) which I need to throw away finally ?
(refer the file named "my lcd.jpg" & "my lcd another angle.jpg")


2. Should anyone see the bare panel shown below and say me - am I suppose to remove that "Backside reflective layers" from the LCD panel which is stuck ( I suppose because my projection was very dark) still on the panel ? because of these "Backside reflective layers" still there I am getting a very dark projection ?
(refer the file name "Should I remove or not.jpg" and "waiting LCD sheet.jpg")

Thanks in advance, please help me on those questions....so I can go ahead.....wating eagerly.

First off, I would get it installed and working.
Then enjoy it for a while and then decide on stripping it or not.
Stripping's not that hard just nerve wrecking. Of course you do run the risk of making the panel unusable.

Those 6 sheets from the panels i have stripped look like the diffuser material. i have never had a panel with the mirrored layer but these loose pieces are nothing to worry about and are present in most lcd's between the screen and backlight...don't worry i don't think you have removed anything you are not meant to.

Well after your edit looks like you'll be striping.LOL

Dear teamwindsor,
Thanks for the reply, now leaving alone the 6 loose sheets , as I have seen already seen as it is (the first of mine !) the wall projection is very dark even on a full dark room( I cant even take a proper picture )

(my design in : a 75mm glass reflector -> 250WMH lamp->unsplit fresnel lens 216mm on lamp side & 343mm on LCD side -->10.6"LCD--> then a 74mm-dia F-315mm triplet lens)

Since my wall projection screen is very dark should I assume that it is due to the "back refelctive layers" which are suppose to be removed from LCD are not yet removed ? And I can go ahead on soaking the LCD backside wet and go for peeling ? or should I skip remove anything further from LCD ( I like to , to avoid ending up any polariser removal night mares ) and concentrate on anything else is wrong which I dont know ?

Should I expect a good bright screen on a full dark room with a untouched LCD screen with my above design
(of course without those 6 sheets ,which was anyway orginally kept loose inside the LCD assembly which I had taken out easily (without any peeling !) or I am expecting anything wrong.

My 10.6 LCD that was purchased from johnzo had that same reflective layer(s) on the LCD.
The layer will have to be removed in order to project sufficient light through the panel. The reflective layer is not anti-glare. It can be removed by soaking and very carefully peeling it up. It may have to be removed in two layers.

Philw has some good pictures of this in his PLOG.

The 2 silver layers will reduce lumens by a lot. And IMO should be removed.

The antiglare layer IMO should be left alone.

The first sheet of reflective layer should peel off without soaking. I recommend soaking the second layer for 2-3 hours so that the glue underneath wipes off easily.

Thanks JJ

It is, also, my personal opinion to leave the antiglare on the panel in order to protect the polar underneath it from eventful future graining if and when it is exposed. If you are seeking better transmissiveness then consider polishing the antiglare directly on the panel rather then removing it alltogether. The rear side of current LCDs have loose layers of sheets and several layers of reflective silver finish adhesed to the panel, these are fitted for computer laptop fashion such with the use of flouresants at the edges of the LCD. When removing the adhesed silver layers take caution on only removing those films but not the 'clear plastic like film' called TAC, because this protects the polar underneath it.

This is all up to the builders preference if removing antiglare or the TAC layer to achieve better and/or brighter contrast's but be warned that when exposing the raw polarizing layer when removing the antiglare or TAC above it will or may lead to graining. And replacing polarizers alltogether on the LCD can be an overwhelming task by itself.

Hi all,

I have done the striping sucessfully on the LCD's back side - removing the two reflective sheets.

I used water soak method and it was easy (but had to spend around 6 hours - 3 hours for each layer for soaking but just took 5 min to remove each layer after that)

Like to share some photos. Thanks to all who had helped me in clarifying my doubts (lumenlab forum is the best !!!)[size="2"][/size]

Soaking for 3 hrs for each reflective layer.
Click to view attachment

First layer gone:
Click to view attachment

Second layer gone:
Click to view attachment

Rise & shine :
Click to view attachment

But still dull picture : even in full dark room
Click to view attachment

But after that also the brightness & contrast on the wall projection is not satisfactory - picture is very dull only.

I think I have lot to tweak around now.....to get a better useable projector .
I am thinking should I attempt AG removal also ( but SIMUL8R caution words are haunting me )

Any clues where to start ? I want a better bright picture.

Congrats on the stripping!

Do you have a PLOG yet?
Are you using a reflector and/or condenser?
What components are you using - triplet, fresnels, LCD and lamp?
What are your projector component distances - triplet, fresnels, LCD and lamp?

You'll want to adjust your distance from lamp arc to rear fresnel back and forth until you are more evenly lighting the LCD.

a couple posts up
(my design in : a 75mm glass reflector -> 250WMH lamp->unsplit fresnel lens 216mm on lamp side & 343mm on LCD side -->10.6"LCD--> then a 74mm-dia F-315mm triplet lens)

@Rajesh,
before you even think of ag removal(which is not easy on the 10.6)
take some time as QuasiM said to make fine adjustments. you may want to separate your fresnels, so there is a small gap between them, and so the rear fres can be adjusted independently.
nice job removing the mirror layers.

Sorry, I missed that.

You might also want to try (if possible) splitting your fresnel setup with one in front and one behind the LCD to see if that helps.
Also see if you can adjust your triplet distance from front fresnel.

As I mentioned before, polishing the antiglare should be your next attempt rather than removing it. The rear silver layers were placed there originally to only recyle the panel's flouresants as a desktop/laptop monitor, it's the antiglare that restricts the light from coming thru and diffuses it.

There are plastic and/or metal polishing compounds that are able to polish antiglare but the one that I've strongly relied on is call 'Mothers Mag Polish' for automobile rims. It's a matter of applying several polishes and not just one. Place the LCD on several layers of soft paper towels on top of a flat table with no 'bumps' to protect the opposite side of the panel from scratches as you slide it around polishing from all directions. Polish the antiglare with just enough pressure not to crack the panel's glass structure. It will take quite a bit of elbow work to achieve a 'gleam' very close to glass. Just be carful of the ffc ribbons and don't attempt to use a polishing tool to quicken the process it will just 'eat' up the antiglare and ruin it.

WAIT A MINUTE!!!....I didn't realize this was a 10.6". Rajesh, do me a favor, post a picture of the front of the panel on how it reflects a light source from above. Does it appear very reflective like the rear right now or does it appear diffused (antiglared)? The reason I ask is because my first Samsung 10.6" had a gloss (non-antiglare) polar layer placed on top of the antiglared polar layer. In other words they placed 2 polars in front...one antiglared then one non-antiglared.

Ho Ho Ho, thanks guys Thanks for the all your encouraging replies , taking in the time for me.

- @SIMUL8R - Thanks , I read all almost all your writings on "polishing" on the lumen lab forum, I will send you the photo of the front side of the LCD for your experienced eyes to comment on AG or glossy polar later.
Thanks for alerting me as I might screw up removing the Polar

- @Quasi_Mojo -@yoshuaspawn- Thanks for the replies, I am yet to start a PLOG,
As I am caught with this dull picture I am still fighting with it, Soon planned to start one PLOG.

Anyway as I have done my fitment of Fresnel,Triplet in such a way that ( I had used a smooth table drawer rail - the ones which are used normally on computer table to pull out the keyboard on the two sides- you know !) so I can smoothly push & pull the lens to and fro easily , But in this case no matter I have pulled and pushed either fresnel or triplet or both the picture gets blurry or focused but the picture brightness hardly improves.

I think I screwed up selecting the 250W lamp, I should have gone for a 400W I Think

And my fresnel "unsplit fresnel lens 216mm on lamp side & 343mm on LCD side" is a attached one
(the ones used in normal OHP) that is both the lens are stuck together with grooves inside facing each other,
I am afraid of breaking it apart in the exact middle ! and splitting it into two , Is it normal to do that ?

I think I will workout first the reflector (with the 250W LAMP itself & without AG removal)as I saw at http://www.drtsolutions.com/Projector.htm
he had a kitchen vessel as a large reflector and he explains large reflector makes a difference , right now mines is a professional glass expensive one but it is small , I think it is not properly reflecting the light from the double ended lamp
and creating a bright spot in the middle instead of even lighting from corner to corner -
( I have also fiddled around moving up and down with that small reflector but no improvement).

Hi,
I believe reflectors can make a significant difference, and i think the firgure banded around for the pro-reflector is a 50% increase in light...which seems pretty impressive. I too had hotspotting in the centre with dim outer edges and found this problem could be solved with the adition of a pre-condensor lens in from of the bulb. this did initially make a huge difference to brightness but at the expense of losing a bit of outer focus. considerable tweaking was needed to achieve a constant focus along with equal light distribution, this can be fiddly but is inevitably worthwhile!

good luck!

Has anyone tried the paint stripper method on a 10.6? I have already hand peeled both reflective layers off the one side by hand and that came out well. The antiglare on the other side (no second polar) wont soak off and I cant start it to try by hand. I am close to trying the paint stripper on the antiglare.

Anti-glare is not the reason for the dim picture using a 250W lamp. I get a nice clear picture with a 150W lamp at about 10 feet from the screen. You should still get a clear picture with the anti-glare intact.

You might want to think about cutting your fused fresnels apart so you can test using a split setup.

Your internal component measurements are important. If you could provide your internal measurements (some pictures of your enclosure would be nice), that could help a lot in diagnosing your problem. Have you plugged your numbers into FocalCalc, and did you use that to design your enclosure.

Look at the pictures in this thread of geckostudios's PLOG to see the difference between the panel with anti-glare on and partly removed:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=230820

Hi Guys, AT LAST I GOT BETTER PICTURES !!!!
Click to view attachment

1.Did not do AG removal yet.

2.Added a Vessel type reflector

3.and pre-condensor

Below is the contraption done - 250watts lamp slides in between precon and reflector kitchen vessel below
I have not even removed the handles !! I have to yet device a proper method to put it permanently in my box.
Click to view attachment

Now in a almost dark room I can get better picture 88" diagnoal wide on normal wall projection, the projection was from 10feet away.
("La isla bonita" sung by a french girl on french TV , I got this DIVX clipping in net , good sound and video.)
Click to view attachment

My son (12 yrs - he is 4-1/2 feet in height standing in front of the projection.
Click to view attachment

Dear SIMUL8R - Hope you have seen my latest projection picture in this post "
Still I have given the front panel picture of the LCD panel you asked for - to show you how it reflects a light source above ,
it is reflects diffused , it is not like a mirror (which is back side after I removed those two sheets by soaking).

Are you properly able to see it in this picture , if not sorry I can post another if you want
Click to view attachment

What do you think , can i go for polishing AG or removing ? (getting greedy to get more good color full picture if AG is stopping me )

Rajesh, yes it does appear that your 10.6: did come to you as antiglared and not glossy. If your satisfied with what you have projected then leave the panel alone. If not, than try the polishing method.