I was wondering how I would interface a joystick or game controller to micRo?

I'm running my current CNC router using a 25' cable without problem. It's a high-quality cable from the good old days so I can't speak for how a new/cheap cable would do.

In the end, I moved the computer closer to the machine and haven't had any issues with wood dust, I blow the machine out periodically but it doesn't get much in it. Metal chips don't fly very far so as long as the PC is a few feet away from and slightly above the tool I think you'll be OK.

What kind of game controller?

Joysticks it will be a matter of getting it working under Linux (should be pretty much plug and play under the Ubuntu based EMC2). Then the EMC2 software probably has a setting to toggle. I haven't tried it yet, but I imagine I should go and dig out my old sidewinder pro =]

Game controller wise - If you're thinking something along the lines of an Xbox controller, I know there are some kernel modules to support that since it isn't a true HID device, but I've also seen some conversions to make it into one. If you're meaning like a computer game controller, I imagine it would act just like the joystick. I think with the way things have come in hardware support over the last 5 years in Linux that getting the devices to work will be pretty straightforward assuming they are a fairly common brand or emulate one.

I've done this in Mach but not in EMC. I've read about others doing so in EMC but not sure which device you want to use. As long as there's an EMC component for the joystick/controller device it should work fine.


Here's one bit of documentation for using a generic USB game controller:

http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.p...our_CNC_Machine

Personally, I'm very happy with a $12 USB numeric keypad. Without any modification, Mach uses the arrow keys to move the machine X,Y axis and PgUp/PgDn to move Z. It's also easy to re-assign the other keypad buttons to other functions.

Others I know are using higher-end USB controllers like the Shuttle Pro that allow variable-rate movement with a rotary control, much like a traditional CNC pendant.

Maybe it's just because I'm not a gamer but I never thought a joystick or game controller would be ideal as a CNC pendent. I'd rather have something I could operate with one hand & that would allow clearly marked buttons.

Yes, the USB standard (a document no one should be forced to read at 650 pages) states a maximum cable length based upon the signal propagation delay. The industry standard is 6 ft / 2 meters. At lower USB 1.0 speeds, I have done work with USB extension cables in the vicinity of 15-20 feet with no issues.

Generally speaking, there is enough error checking and redundancy in the USB hardware protocol that you probably won't have an issue at normal connection speeds.

Back to the holes, but why not drill and ream them? Am I missing something? Not sure what your exact goal is, so I probably am.

My guess-t-mate is that it is a way to test accuracy. The drill bit is a known diameter, so drill a zillion holes at a zillion x/y coordinates to test their placement accuracy in all 3 axis all over the working area.

Accuracy of placement or of diameter? To figure out placement you could just center pop a zillion time instead. Drill bits can wander depending on how careful you use them, so is this the kind of thing you're trying to ascertain?

Many high tolerances holes like valve guides are drilled or milled them reamed. A drill is a cutting tool, a reamer is a finishing tool. If you want the hole to be exact, you ream.

I think for this job placement and straightness is primary, if the drill is the right size to begin with.

I really like the pilot or dual tip drills for going straight. To bad sharping them is a pain.

Some high end drills.

http://www.kodiakcuttingtools.com/Drills-C...no-coolant+351/

The spindle should be here tomorrow, but not the collet holding final assembly as some dev is needed to test a few pieces before I drop any funds on a chuck.

Parport; the cables I sell are well shielded with plated contacts and the absolute length I sell is 15'; not for any empirical reason per se, but it may not be so great to go further. With the parport's 4mbps max transfer, well, it seems best to me to keep it short. EMC2 is very dedicated to real-time priority, hence the lack of USB support.


Both Me, God and the Devil are in the details; how can that be?



Plug it in and invoke EMC's joystick interface (HAL/USB interface).



Man, the only computer that never dies is the one with 4" of alum and plastic chip cascading off of the DVD-R tray. Coincidentally, our mainframe went down and we are all feeling it (all of the book-keeping, postage printing, my graphics and photos, site data, blah!).


This is really a question of whether we as males have any choice?

Umm, freebies! The micRo must go off-sale soon or the list of ingredients has to diminish! For those that have vested me with their funds; another free upgrade! For those who haven't: the price is going up another $100! If you buy a kit now, you may be able to "sneak" this upgrade for yourself. We have some downtime because we have lost our mainframe, and I can tell you there are about 20 kits left in micRo bearings...wink wink.,

Behold:

The Golden-Slit-Coupler; the Legend is true!

Click to view attachment

Ooooh, you alluring sob, you!

Right. Can I give you a lot of money now, and hold delivery to some future point when 1) most bugs are unbugged, 2) final specs are even finaller, and 3) I have the time to actually use this Wonderful Piece to concoct Wonderful Things? Not to forget the everincreasing list of Wonderful Freebies - it may come as a total surprise to you, but I am sucker for those. Believe it or not!

Just pay through the shopping cart thingy, with an email to ... whom?

AAAHHH!!!

Ok, Brainchild you just pushed me over the cliff and I placed my order! Good job in the sales (ie threat) department!

Hopefully I got in under the wire....

Giggity Giggity...I take it that means the epoxy idea you were using wasn't meeting the design standards? Nothing like some added bling though. Not that I'd consider talking you out of it, but I would've thought soemthing like that would be reserved for the "Gold" edition. But I assume due to the cost of this freebie that really it must be the ONLY solution that is going to be production quality.

Is it in bad taste to ask if there are about 20 micRo kits left bearing wise...about how many kits have been ordered?

Think of it as highly motivational direct marketing.

Heh I was pushed over the cliff too! Placed an order

Brainchild: I read somewhere that one could make a comment and hold the shipping.. like until the spindle thing is set. I would like to wait.

Cheers
/Tobias

I also placed my order today. I thought I had already placed an order but going back through my emails I could not find a confirmation number. Only orders for the other kits

sold! i just place my order!

"we're almost out of stock!" just put me over the edge, and i couldn't resist any more freebies.

note that i've asked to hold shipment until spindle is finalized.

and i'll also need a drilled and tapped base plate.

plus, i've asked about the potential "silver" and "gold" options as well as encoders for each axis.

BC, any more thoughts on these options? (i.e., please let me send you more money.)

Sure. LLSupport@lumenlab.com


Yes, we are still down. My thinking is the price will go up Monday.

No, my couplings haven't failed. It is our time producing them that is the issue.


LLSupport.


Hmm, better place a couple more orders to be sure...

Brainchild, what are your ideas for the collet setup on the spindle? Setscrew tool holders? Standard taper sizes? Jacobs chuck?

Drat USPS, no motor today. Should be tomorrow.

I don't want to use a set screw for a tool holder. I have a few options at hand for mounts. More soon (on my handheld currently).

No problem on any of the above. You can see that the details get filled-in as we go. I can certainly provide you with more options as per your request; but the details may be a little lagging until the "standard issue" is resolved (hint, super close!).


All of the above to some extent. A set/grub-screw is usable in a power-transfer situation, but not (to me) as a method to attach both arbor and chuck/tool (whatever holds the tool). I have been sourcing collet-based "prop adapters" which use a collet to clamp onto a motor shaft for rigid alignment. From there I have a couple of options: the prop adapter terminates in a 5/16-24 screw which is amenable to Jacobs precision miniature chucks, but also to pneumatic collet chucks, and hand-held grinder collet chucks. It is also possible (and highly desirable) that a prop adapter can be used with the golden-slit-coupler and a bearing on the collet end.

That said, I don't yet have the spec'd motor, and I sorely need to understand the sweet-spots on the beastie. There is a lot of potential, which is the fairest thing I can say right now. I'd like to also mention that there are several "ready" spindle options for anyone. This project is for me the exploration of another, different approach, which I expect to yield excellent wide-band performance highly amenable to machine control via PWM.

BC if you still look for ideas for a spindle I have collected some links


http://www.cncathome.com/spindles.html
http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/pcbmill/spindle.html
http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/spindle_05/spindle_05.html
http://www.cnconabudget.com/

The last three are in german but have nice pictures so that you can get ideas even
when you don't understand the text

http://www.einfach-cnc.de/frasspindel.html
http://www.metallmodellbau.de/Miniaturfraesspindel.php
http://www.metallmodellbau.de/Eigenbau-Universalspindel.php

Klaus Leiss

Danke!

Whew, that's a nice list! Thanks

Klaus Leiss's german links with german-to-english google translation:

english (original http://www.einfach-cnc.de/frasspindel.html )
english (original http://www.metallmodellbau.de/Miniaturfraesspindel.php )
english (original http://www.metallmodellbau.de/Eigenbau-Universalspindel.php )

Order Placed!!!!!! :-D

Alright, got the new bigger micRo spindle motor today. Here's a few of the parts for the spindle; syncro, PWM microcontrolled 55a drive, and programming device for the MC:

Click to view attachment

The other side of the ESC:

Click to view attachment

You may remember the 100krpm test I did on another motor...that was the purple one.



Here you can see the big boy motor compared in size:

Click to view attachment

Based on my previous testing with a smaller motor, this newer motor should be downright frightening!

Go ahead! Scare me!!

That's a nice little collet motor shaft mount. Where does one get those?

R/C aircraft suppliers sell them to mount a propeller onto motor shafts

http://www.extremeflightrc.com/store/index...57448c6e37c9e49

Cool! Thanks!

im going to buy a base plate locally what dimensions / thickness of al should i look for at the scrap house

I knew it. I had to order one too. And I is done did it. Am I thrilled? Yes. Can I wait? No. Do I have a choice? No. What will I do? Continue to drool over this thread like the rest of you..

2nd that!

I think I'd go with 0.5" myself, but I like to double specs where it's easy. Looks like it should be 14x16 inches.

Hey everybody!

I'm neck deep in the details with my constant companions; God and the Devil. Oh, how I miss the heady days of video blogging for your amusement. Oh...where have gone the days without drilling bloody hole after hole after hole after hole?

You guys know I love this job, but it can be work! I can send it to you .005, or .001 (well I'm shootin' for .0005). I have a little time so I'm staying with it, but I can get a vacation soon, right? Puhlease???

Hirudin...let me answer the questions in my thread (or not, as I please). Start a thread for yourself in the DIY section to expound as you will.

OK?

yup

Really? so no ones allowed to answer questions asked here but you? most of the time you dont even answer.. i thought it would have been good for people who know the answers to post so others can learn. i would think it would save you some time if others were allowed to answer aswell.. no?

i dunno.. its been pretty much dead in this forum lately.. most questions go unanswered and people are told to wait.. i would like to see some of the more knowledgeable people be allowed to answer some questions if they know the answers so we can make some progress on our CNC machines... i got $1200 worth of cnc parts sitting collecting dust with no idea if or when it will get done.. just venting i guess..

its your forum so i guess its your choice.. but i thought you were going for an "open-source" concept on the robloks machines.

and again.. just to clarify, I really appreciate all you are doing and all the time, money, blood you are putting into this.. i just think it could go faster/better if others were allowed to help.

I Love LL!!!

I was a little shocked by BC's reply but figured that a few months of sacrificed nights and weekends could make anyone testy. Also the fact that BC has answered the plate thickness question before would contribute to his frustration no doubt. I believe the answer was two sheets of .75" medium-density fiberboard (MDF) glue-laminated to each other or a single .25" aluminum sheet with a sacrifice layer of masonite (eco-board, pressed hardboard). I have used .100-.125" thin sheet steel with a .25" sacrifice layer of acrylic for another project and it worked pretty well. That said the acrylic can break your bit if the feeds/depth of cut are set for a softer material and a bad calculation causes you to bite hard into the acrylic with the end mill. There are going to be some who will want 1" thick steel plate to satisfy their inner desires but everyone else will be fine with either of BC's recommendations and some nice rubber feet to prevent walking across the table and vibration conduction. On the up side, the 1" thick steel plate users will have very little residual vibration with all that metal counterweight stuck to the bottom!

Which Hirudin was kind enough to quote in his reply.


Better watch out! This is Brainchild's thread and you've just done what he asked Hirudin not to do!

What exactly are you trying to achieve with these hole tests?

I think it goes back to the post BC made about people not having all the information posting answers to questions they can't entirely know. For sure he had mentioned 0.25" aluminum plate in a prior post. But I would assume the issue was from the other 2 dimensions. I'm pretty sure at some point he asked everyone to wait on that measurement, that he was anticipating a certain size, but to hold out on it till the kits ship to have a definitive measurement. You wouldn't want to end up with a 0.25" thick sheet of 6061 and end up with it being a 1/4" short in the X-direction after all.

We're all antsy, that doesn't help and it sure doesn't help the stress levels of bringing this to market. Hell, I dropped the coin in May. It's August now. My roommate was asking me about it last night and I told him, "Hey, I pre-ordered this thing so I knew it would be a bit of a wait. He is still finalizing the production piece of it, and that's no easy task with an item that has such a niche demand." He concurred. Making the offer for pre-orders while in design and having the production sorted out in a few months is purely insane. Doing this with the micRo and the Rogr, and well that takes some serious accolades.

And Phife, about the Open Source comment -- that's not necessarily the deal. He wants to provide the enabling technology. But, to do that he needs to make the decisions on his own to insure every thing is satisfactory. An Open Source approach really doesn't work for initial development. There has to be a ring leader to collect ideas and make the calls. In this case he is alleviating the problems and taking the design piece upon himself and Robyn only.

I really don't see the point of building the mounting plate until you know the spacing of the mounting holes for the supported X axis ways. It will be easier for me personally to mill it all in one pass instead of trying to cut it to size and then get the hole spacing correct by hand.

And here you go answering for BC again, when you know it's his thread. However, it's a good answer and probably the right one. I've already been chastised for suggesting responses though, so I won't bother to do it again.

I don't plan on doing anything with regard to the micRo until I have it in my grubby little hands. It's still a fluid design as far as I can tell, and that's the reason I put off ordering until a full kit was available, minus certain known parts, so that I at least could be assured that those parts would work together.

Thinking of gathering info in a reasonable place for the micRo, has there been any thought to having a Wiki for documentation?

- AnswerGuru

geesh all i wanted to know was width and depth a general foot print if you will so i knew what size raw sheet of whatever to look for i read the whole thread and didnt remember seeing an exact measurement i didn't mean to start a conflict

on a lighter note: I've nicknamed my micro
MILL-E

Micro
Industrial
Lumen
Labs
Engineering

I was in the process of going through the whole thread and assembly info into one useful repository. I'm on page 15 of 22 as of now. I think I'll start a new thread unless BC thinks it should be here.