Hey folks, I got the flu yesterday! It makes working uncomfortable; hope I feel better soon (and darn I'll miss my scheduled tooth-extraction/root canal tomorrow, which I need!).
QUOTE (Arandoir @ Mar 14 2009, 06:19 PM)

Apropos mini-itx, does anyone know if those VIA mini-itx cards are suitable for running the micRo? (latency etc)
Never tried it myself...
QUOTE (Cheeso @ Mar 15 2009, 03:41 AM)

Yay!! The vids are back!
Ooh, so due to the oxide, I can even wash the MicRo every once in a while.. just like my car!
In order to make the screws "wear" more evenly, I suppose one could move the jig. It might not weigh up against having to change the g-code for the repositioning though?
cheers,
Gerhard
Hi Gerhard, Well I made the thing to work, so when it wears out, I'll just replace the parts that need it. Those parts are expendable.
QUOTE (davedavedave @ Mar 15 2009, 02:07 PM)

BC,
I don't remember a discussion of the X-axis lead screw adjustment set screws in the gantry blocks. How does that work? The holes aren't tapped, but the pocket is there. What is the pocket for? I think I saw it being cut in a video once, but I didn't see a photo with it in use.
For that matter, the set screws are all listed in the hardware list, but none of the holes are tapped. I seem to remember that you did not think these setscrews would be needed for a while (if ever). Are they just there for the future, and we tap them if we need them? Or maybe they ae not tapped because you didn't know if we had access to english or metric setscrews?
The set screws are chamfered-type, and the bore made to allow self-tapping. We tested this thoroughly.
QUOTE (davedavedave @ Mar 15 2009, 02:44 PM)

Another micRo question. I received two motor types (see pic).

The top one has the motor leads and a short motor shaft ( 0.867") The bottom one has a 6 pin connector and a long (1.247) shaft. It looks as if the short shaft should be used for the Z axis. Is this correct? Should the long shaft motors be used for the X axis screws? Also, is there a pinout for the connector or should I use the continuity try then reverse method?
Long shafts on the X. While this makes sense as two motors don't need 2x torque for one axis, I'll be switching to just one type of motor for all axes in the future, to avoid this confusion.
QUOTE (orbatos @ Mar 15 2009, 04:15 PM)

This looks pretty good, especially with that passively cooled Via board, I've been looking in the same direction for my setup. One issue to take note of for those interested in small form factor or "embedded" boards is that power management on many of these can interfere with EMC. Many newer small form factor boards will require a pci add-on parallel port card, but by all accounts that is a good idea anyway.
For any interested, I have been testing the newer Intel Atom based mini-itx boards for use with EMC. They do seem to be a hassle, requiring a 64 bit Linux installation (The "live" EMC disk image will likely not work), and have some issues regarding the real-time kernel (the real-time kernel will not boot with on-board networking enabled), but are quite decent. These boards are available for under $100 and have all the trimmings needed, plus the above problems are expected to go away when EMC is ported to the next LTS release of Ubuntu Linux.
The board in the pic is actually a core-2-duo BGA fanless. This board also runs on straight 12v. It is a specialty board for embedded applications. This board may cost about $150 nowadays. I have it leftover from R&D, else I'd be looking for cheaper stuff. I don't plan on stocking mobos since I don't care for the liability of selling a computer. Instead, we'll make it easy to implement
your choice of mini-itx mobo by providing the "keys" to integration. Computers are Newegg's business!
QUOTE (mas3773 @ Mar 15 2009, 07:50 PM)

Just to chime in on the motors. The X motors are the Long shaft ones. The Z and Y are the short shaft ones which are higher torque (longer black section).
Wiring can be figured out with a meter, a coil will have about 55 Ohm resistance, no coils have no connectivity. Basically you can test it with choosing one coil and wiring it, then on the other coil hook it up, if it moves the wrong way, switch ONE coil. I don't want to say too much on it right now. I was going to show pictures of how I have mine all setup, but I've been lazy. Now I just got back from a race and am exhausted. Hopefully you can search back in the thread and find the information you need. Or maybe BC or RW will get back with LL standardized wiring instructions.
One of the simple "secrets" of motor wiring (man this stuff reminds me of the DIY projector) is to know how to quickly identify coils. It is quite simple really: just separate all of the wires, pick one color (like red) and cross it with one other lead while spinning the motor shaft. If you have the other end of the coil, the motor becomes hard to turn. This requires a maximum of 3 steps to ascertain both coils (ie; when you have one coil, you're done).
PS, for fun, wire one motor to another, color on color. Turn one motor shaft and be amazed how perfectly the other motor shaft turns.
QUOTE (ddillard @ Mar 15 2009, 09:06 PM)

I have to say that the more I follow this thread the more apprehensive I am about assembling my micro when I receive it. Hopefully some of those that have already received theirs will post instructions and some pics to show how to put it together properly. I would hate to put mine together incorrectly and damage one of the pieces, since I would not have the money to replace any damaged parts for a while.
BWAK!

Seriously, I'm doing a photo documentary/manual of assembly this week, and I'll post it as I go in the new section for micRo manuals. Every detail will be covered, and of course I'm here to help! (even with damaged pieces.)