Finally got all my parts together and decided to go ahead with the build. Since I couldn't find any schematics, blueprints, or designs for the 15.4" 1080p WUXGA panels, I figured I would document the entire process (and possibly my eventual failure).



That's my rough basic dimensions. Well, it was at least. I did some last minute changes; I'll update the schematic when the project is complete.

BTW, I couldn't upload my images due to the size restrictions, so I went out to find image hosting providers that would let me upload multiple images (or zip files with images).
ImageBam.com was definitely the easiest to sign up for (no activation email) and the simplest for uploading my images. They support single file, multiple file (via flash), and zip uploads. Only downside is that the .jpg extension has to be in lowercase on Ubuntu (but not windows), and my camera has all uppercase. I just have to run "rename -v 's/\.JPG$/\.jpg/' *.JPG" at the terminal.
ImageShack's multi uploader didn't work
Same with PhotoBucket.
Hotlinkfiles wouldn't take a zip archive properly (only extracted one image).
Image-upload.net never sent me a confirmation email.
Freeimagehost.eu had network problems (but looked more promising than the others).

And those were about all the hosts with multiple pic uploading that I could find. If you have any more to recommend, please let me know. I'd like a second one for redundancy.

I'll be updating the parts and tools list until I've finished assembly.

PARTS LIST
[1] 4'x8' 3/8" thick sheet of Medium Density Fiberboard ($15)
[1] 3/32" Drill Bit (preferably counter-sinking)
[1] Box screws (see post 4)
[4] Boxes Mirror Clips
[1] Box 3/4" Nails from Wal-Mart
Note:3/8" thick MDF is very hard to work with; I bought it after seeing comments about using it to reduce weight. I recommend 1/2" or 5/8" instead; alternate measurements will be noted if you are using these.

TOOLS LIST
Circular Saw with Wood Cutting Blade (cordless preferred)
Electric Drill with Phillips (T) bits (cordless preferred)
Jigsaw with thin wood bit, possibly fine metal bit
Multiple pencils
48" T-Square ($10.50 at Home Depot)
Dremel with cutting wheels
Hammer
Tape Measure

FIRST 1/2 SHEET

I had Home Depot cut my sheet exactly in half for easier transportation, so I had two 4x4-ish sheets to work with.


In the first picture here, you can see that I've marked the MDF 40" from one end. You want to make sure you mark in multiple spots; this will make it easier to draw the line. Arrows not necessary.


In this image you can see how I've lined the T-Square up with the mark


I've determined here that the sides marked "square" are actually square to each other, while the other two are not. How to determine that is in the next post.


My sheet is now marked down to 40" by ~48" (but has not been cut yet). Take your T-Square and mark (from the square side, T-square should run parallel to the 40" line) at 15 1/4", 30 1/2", and 41 1/2". Don't forget to move the T-Square and make multiple marks.
Alternate Sizes: If you are using 1/2" MDF, mark at 15 1/2", 31", and 42". If using 5/8" MDF, mark at 15 3/4", 31 1/2", and 42 1/2"


In this picture I've completed all of my marks and made my cut lines. I've even labeled them top, bottom, and side (Although it doesn't matter - they should all be about the same size). As you can see, I did all of my measurements from the square sides.


I've cut off the left scrap piece and the back scrap piece. Save these; we'll need them later.


If you want to do it perfectly, then you would have marked each piece and then cut it; I prefer time and convenience over perfection. If you cut exactly on (or, if you have a very wide blade, make sure the blade cuts the pencil line and to the left if necessary) you should be fine. We've added enough to compensate for plenty of adjustments and errors.


As you can see, I didn't get the best cut with a circular saw. A table saw would have been nice, but I don't have one handy. Not a problem, that's what wood glue is for.

SECOND 1/2 SHEET
I'll be including details on how to determine the square edge in this post, as well as the additional work done.

I've made my mark 40" from side 1 (as the picture shows).


There's a bit of glare in this picture, but you should be able to see that the first mark lines up (going from side 3), but the rest do not.


Going from side 4, the last mark lines up, but the rest do not. This tells me that side 1 (where I measured 40" from), is not square compared to sides 3 and 4.


I've made my 40" marks from side 2 (opposite of side 1).


Side 2 is not square to side 4


Side 2 is not square to side 3


Now making my 40" mark from side 3


Side 3 is square to side 2 (which is on the right). Everything lines up, so sides 2 and 3 are square.


I made my marks 11" in from side 2 and drew my cutting line.


The side piece has been cut out; don't completely cut along the bottom line (the one at 40"), just cut far enough to cut the last side piece loose.

SECOND HALF SHEET (continued)


The left image shows you what size cuts to make for the first end piece. The measurements are 11 3/4" and 15 1/4". Second picture shows where in the sheet you should be cutting it. Third picture shows the correction I made (originally 11 3/4", but I switched to 11 3/8 because I thought the lid went on top of the back piece. Lid actually goes in front of the back piece to simplify construction).
Alternate Measurements: If you are using 1/2" MDF, make your cuts 11 1/2" and 15 1/2". If using 5/8" MDF, make your cuts 11 5/8" and 15 3/4"


BOX ASSEMBLY


In this (blurry) picture, you can see the size of the screw I was going to use. It was a 2" long screw with full thread.


VERY IMPORTANT: Use one of the pieces of scrap wood to drill some test holes and test your screws. Get a feel for how it's done. Make sure the drill is pointing straight towards it - if it's angled in any direction, your drill bit will be cockeyed, and your screw will split the board. Drill slowly, both going in and out. This step will make sure you have the right screws; if they split your board too often, take them back and get either shorter or thinner screws.


In this picture you can see the size of the screws that worked for me. They have a half inch shank (smooth part of the screw) and 1-1/8" of thread, making them a total of 1-5/8" long; these come with a countersunk Phillips head. A 1-1/2" long screw with at least a 1/2" shank should be adequate in the 3/8" thick MDF. Correction: A 1" long screw with full length thread should work just fine - should. That's 5/8" actually going into the MDF. Might not be adequate, although using shorter and more screws should maintain strength while not splitting the MDF. I imagine a 1/8" thick screw at 1" to 1-1/4" would work much better. My screws are 3/16" wide, which is a bit wide. I would recommend screws 1/8" thick - this should help with breaking. If you can't solve your breakage problems (either screws are just too big or your MDF wasn't made as well), then you should use 1/8" nails (the ribbed kind) at 1-1/2" length, and use L-brackets for support (although the brackets will have to be on the outside, due to the width - a half inch screw will most likely just poke through on the inside).


I have the bottom piece supported against the filing cabinet I'm cutting on (I know, I should have sawhorses, but it was convenient). Use some similar object to press the board against, to keep it perfectly vertical. I'm sure there's another way to do this (involving brackets, which I originally did, but placed the back piece wrong), but this was the best I could come up with. I would also recommend marking the width of your board (as you can see in the next pic). Use a tape measure or just place the board on the back board and pencil the outline.

Making sure that it's all perfectly aligned (centered properly, and all flush) and that your drill has a drill bit installed. Hold down firmly on the board, and slowly frill the pilot hole for the screw. I would drill at least two inches in (I didn't, should have). Make sure that you are centered between the edge of the board and your line. If you get this off, you'll crack the board putting the screw in and it'll look ugly. And you'll have to drill another pilot hole and place another screw.


Image after I've placed my first screw. Also shows the line I drew to show me where I should center it.


Image showing all four screws placed. You can see where the wood cracked and bulged. This is where I recommend again using thicker board.


In this picture I've put in two brackets on the outside with half inch screws to make sure it holds together. It's not pretty, and using thicker board or shorter screws would have avoided this.

As recommended by Bluedog, you might consider gluing a 1/2" x 1/2" length of hard wood to the corner; this would help support it. Me, I should have used shorter screws, and if I was worried about support, I would have used a 1/2" x 1/2" length of wood for support, but glued it in as well as drilled it in (my drill bit is countersinking, so I could cover up the screws and paint over them).

But really, this is my first time - I don't want it (the box) to look pretty, I want it (the picture) to look AWESOME!!! Doing everything step by step will let me fix the problems next time I do it.

(please learn from my mistakes)

BOX ASSEMBLY (continued)


First side piece sitting in place (left side, if you're looking from the back)


Showing preparation for drilling the screw


Showing final screws on the back left corner. Note the pencil "u"'s showing where it cracked or bulged. I used three screws on this piece.


Showing the side partially fixed in place. Make sure that the edges line up perfectly. If they don't, adjust where you are drilling your pilot holes accordingly.


My 3/8" line to guide me in my drilling (don't forget to draw a bigger line if you are using thicker MDF).


All the screws in place, an extra bracket for support.


Unfortunately, you can see where I burst through a few times. Or more than a few This is where I figured to hold my thumb on the MDF to detect if it's breaking through.


Showing the final three screws on the back side and accompanying line. This small section has turned out the best (but that's not saying much).


Showing the screws after being... screwed... into the final side piece.

Congratulations on commencing the build. I hope it all goes well for you.

Just one observation/comment. You could achieve the same 'strengthening' of the joins by installing a series of small cleats on the inside of the join. These could be scrap strips of the same timber say 1/2 square or similar solid timber and these can be glued into place. This gives a much cleaner exterior and the corners can be rounded as they are obstruction free. I find that MDF or chipboard left square presents a very sharp edge which can cut or can be easily chipped. A rounded or chamfered edge does not have these problems.

Are you using MDF type glue? I find this is much stronger than ordinary PVA.

Thank you

Honestly, I'm not using any glue at all. Being my first build, if I misplace something I want to be able to unscrew it and fix it (and glue is a bit hard to unscrew).

For anyone else watching, each set of new pictures goes up about 15 minutes after the last picture is taken.

PAUSE FOR EFFECT


Box standing up on the floor


Box lying on top of filing cabinet/sawhorse


Side shot of box with normal size spray paint can for comparison


PRO LENS MOUNT

You can see here where a miscalculation while cutting the rear piece left the top a bit short. Don't worry, the post above has the correct measurements.


Measurements and outline for the front insert. 14 3/8" by 11". THIS PIECE IS IMPORTANT. I made sure that this piece was cut as well as possible.

I don't believe there are any alternate measurements for this piece.

After being cut.


The front insert in place. I had to trim one edge that wasn't cut quite straight. I'm not sure why, but my piece only fits in one way (if I turn it any other way or flip it over, it doesn't fit). So before you go trimming it up, make sure you test every possible combination and pick the best one. Or just cut it perfectly the first time.


I've drawn lines diagonally and across (across carefully measured, diagonally done with a straight edge). They don't match up 100% perfect, so I drilled a hole as close to all four lines as possible (as a guide). Take your time getting the straight edge as accurate as possible; however, we will be able to adjust the light as well as the lenses and screen, so don't kill yourself if it's not perfect.


The template I made for cutting the hole. You can find the circle here, just make sure you measure first (it should be 4 3/8" across).


I was going to use a pencil to draw the circle, but I had my paint handy so I decided to use that. Make sure you try to spray from the inside out so you don't blow paint under the circle. Thumb tacks may work to hold it down, or a small bead of glue around the edge. I used a pencil.

PRO LENS MOUNT (continued)


After I've spray painted the outline. I got some paint under in two spots; rubbed it with an eraser, but didn't do much.


I used a spade bit to cut the initial hole. The spade bit has a much sharper point than a regular bit, so it won't travel. You can also line it up easier.


My first cut was straight across the hole. Recommended to carefully cut to just inside the circle.


I cut 1/4 of the way around the circle before I realized it would be easier if I cut out chunks. So I cut out a big center piece, then cut from the inside out, making sure not to cut past the circle.


You can see I've cut half the circle out, removed a large inner piece from the second half, and made my notches.


Circle is done and doesn't look too bad. Yes a 4 1/2" hole saw bit might have been easier and neater, but I didn't want to spend $55 on one.


As you can see, it's close but a little tight in some spots. Luckily I cut it so I could cut out more (remember, you can take wood away, but you can't put it back). I made sure to mark the sections that would need widened.


One half of the lens now fitting in the hole. This is the bottom half of most these pictures (the last half cut). Turned out rather nicely.


Showing the other half; not the cleanest, but still good.


Showing the lens installed from the back.

PRO LENS MOUNT (continued)


The front insert after I blasted it with some of the high temp paint (this is the outside).


Measurement for the bottom piece. I happened to have length at 14 1/4", but it's going inside, anything over 12" should be fine.


Measurement for one of the side pieces. Shouldn't actually be 11". it should be 10 5/8".


I took the side piece I had already cut and traced the outline to copy it.


I decided 8" long would be fine for the outer side pieces. I wanted to give the side walls a little extra thickness, and leave room for the hinges.


Again copying my 8" side piece


Showing the test fit from the back. I made a mistake and the inside pieces are a little taller. See the bolded text above.


Showing in more detail how they go together.


From the front.


Showing as much of the box as I could fit in the picture while holding the pieces in place.

Tracing where I will be cutting slots for the adjustment bolts. As you can see, I measured down 7" and drew a line, then measured in 5" and 11" from the side. I then used a board to trace out the width of the hole.


I used a 1/2" Paddle bit to make a hole at each end of the slot


I then used a jigsaw to cut out the hole.

Process repeated on the opposite side


I've screwed one of the side pieces in place. Make sure you try out each side and configuration to make sure it will be perfectly square and flush with the front piece.

Completed screwing the other side piece.


Have one screw in place on the top. It's easier to do if you drill then screw the first few screws and then drill the rest of your holes, but it didn't help the wood splitting. I switched to a 1/8" drill bit which seemed to help some; the biggest help was when I was able to pre-drill the holes to get more penetration on the drill bit.

Although now that I think of it, I could have drilled all the holes, taken off the board, and then extended the holes a bit more. I think I'll be doing that from now on.


Board completely in place. Notice the horrible look; doesn't matter to me, as long as it's stable, this piece should be inside if all goes properly.


I found a tub of wood filler in the cabinet, so I put some on. I'll probably slap some more on when everything's finished.

Test fit in place.


The screws that I'll be using for the inner side pieces. I had these laying around, any will do (though the ones that are fully threaded are recommended).


Inner side pieces screwed in place. I'll be using a dremel to remove the ends, then filling them and painting black.


A peek at what I have in store for the LCD/Fresnel mount. Take a close look; once I have everything in place, I will be able to adjust by screw everything up and down, forward and backward. Maybe side to side as well.

Measurement for the LCD frame. The wood is 1/2"x1/2" from Home Depot. Came in about 3' lengths.

This measurement is for the top and bottom pieces. They should each be 14 1/4" long.


After cutting all the pieces, showing them in place.

The side pieces are 8 3/16" long. I made sure to find the straightest side of each piece and mark it with the word "LCD".


After being screwed together. The wood glue didn't help. If I was doing this again, I would use L brackets to go on the front and back of each corner, as it all ended up being slightly crooked, and I had to replace the screws once (as well as redo the clips several times).

I would also probably take the time to make something to help me square it all. Most likely I would have taken the scrap 1/2"x1/2" pieces, screwed them to a piece of MDF (making sure that they were perfectly square), and then clamped the pieces I was screwing. But I didn't think of that until after.


Test fit with the LCD. I didn't think I would have to do this, but at this point I recommend holding it in place with your fingers and holding it all up to a light, then aligning it so that you can see all parts of the LCD. Once you've got it all perfectly aligned, carefully transfer it to your workspace and (while holding the LCD down in the center) use a pencil to trace the three sides (ignore the side connectors). Then hold it back up, align the LCD with your marks, and double check the alignment.


Showing the mirror clip positioning.


This shows the 3/4" nails I got from wal-mart. I used my 3/32" counter-sinking drill bit (pictured) to drill through the clips; the clips are intended to be used with a single screw on one side, the other side has to small holes that an extension piece clips into. Drilling through the two holes lets me get the clip closer to the screen.


Four clips nailed down. I believe I had to remove them after this picture. If you place the clips properly, you should have enough clearance to fold the two strips on the right down and slide them under the mirror clips.

For clip attachment, I recommend doing the left side first, then placing the LCD and checking that the pixels on the right side are visible and everything is still square; then do the right side, then the bottom. The side clips need to have a little bit of play room. The bottom ones won't be perfectly aligned (unless you're doing a lot of work), most likely, one will be a little higher than the rest, and it will need dremeled in slightly.


All clips in place.


All clips and LCD in place.


Through sheer dumb luck, the tray just manages to fit inside the projector box. It's snug. Very snug. In fact, I want to trim just a tad off a few spots. It almost looks like I planned it that way.

This also throws my original idea for the adjustment system out the window, since it depended on the rails being mounted on the side of the frames. I'm either going to figure out how to mount the rails on top and bottom of the frames (great adjustment capabilities), or do like I did with the triplet box and drill holes in the side for adjustment (much easier and faster to do).

nice plog,

any update expert01?

Hi Expert01,

I really appreciate all the pics. Interested to know how this is coming along also.

Well... since the last post, I haven't really done anything with it... kind of sad. I'm trying to finish it (just uncovered it a few days ago), but I work a lot. I think I'll have to cut a channel through the side of the case in four spots (towards the top and bottom of the left and right sides) so I can run a bolt through to each lens/lcd frame, that way I'll be able to adjust it from outside the case. It really should only take a few hours of work, but that doesn't really consider that the lenses have some wood glue on them (and one is cracked) and my panel has a small chip from where I tossed a drill on it. But it might look good enough when it's done.