ok the red :

in this drawing they are 10mm dia' and 3mm thick, welded together for ajusters

the blue:

The frame is obvious and way out of spec however its just a dummy

the "sticks" represent fine threded bolts or rod that turns the adjusters.

not seen:

the mount for the case ( in my use a haas model) the x axis will move with along the z when your trying to center the fresnel left or right. the z will move along the x when trying to get the gap fine tuned. They do this by moving in their slot, with washers for retainers. The top would be smooth. just dummy runners and drilled out nuts.

A: First attempt at 1" hole - off center at opposite end
B: Third hole 1 1/4" much better size and just about center by drilling with a square for a guide
C: Lip under the flange fit in the 1 1/4" hole like a bushing
D: 3/4" x 8" "black iron" or steel pipe from HD
E: second hole - practice


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the thing sticking out - as you may have guessed - is to connect the pj to the mount. I used a 1/4" wall anchor with a hex head "screw" I had a set of 4 laying around.I'm going to use other anchors ( seen on screw) and insert them into the arms of the ceiling mount. though I may just drill a hole and forgo the second set of anchors... I'll have to mock it up on some scrap. BTW I tested the mount I have partially mocked up with my weight bench and it will hold just fine

Nvidia TV out fix

Well I just did pull ups on my mount I weigh 215lbs and it held me fine. I think it might hold the pj but I'm not sure

Ashamed to say I don't get around like I used to but finally made it here to your plog. Keep yer chin up and you'll reach the endpoint eventually. Another in the long line of peeps starting and finishing during my build. Tonight I'm just bopping around leaving worthless posts in others plogs whilst waiting for some stuff to download. Y-A-W-N . . .

lol

Well is a pj ever truly finished? This is merely the first incarnation. I'm already scheming my next - which may just be a rebuild with a bit more of a clue as to what I'm shooting for. I'm selling all my car stuff and transforming my "shop" intoa wood shop. The place was originally built as a wood shop when a previous owner built the garage and back room. I need to aquire most of the tools, and the crown jewel of the shop RoGR

Then I'll realy beable to make the case that I have in my minds eye.

Well I am cutting the wood to finish the mount tomorrow. I revamped my design a bit. The pj brace is going to be a 15 5/8" wide section of 4x4 with the base of the pipe screwed to it ( tested on a dummy piece and I can do pulls ups just hanging on tot he wood - no creaking or cracking.) Also on the to do list is the sled for the pj, then I have to figure out what I want to do for a light box. I asked someone with a great light box if I could flat out copy his his design as the dimensions and design would fit the haas style enclosure I'm hac...eerr....putting together. I was blown away at how his light box is exactly what I was looking for. If he says go for it I'll post pics of my designs / workups here.

I'll post some pics tomorrow of the pj on the mount. It'll just be a test fit / mock up to make sure alls well as I suspect I may need to adjust the hardware aspect of it a bit.

seriously though that light box is genius, damn genius.

ps...

bent down to pet the dog, stood up and firmly planted the bottom corner of the kitchen cupboard into my skull - knocked me flat on my butt. nice knott and cut to boot.

Nice! looking forward to some more pics

Well I borked the sled, I have to do everything all over again. no pics as I'm to P.O'ed to bother.

PICTURES!!!!

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The skeli pic was painted by my wifes brother and the eggs are by the kids.

The mount will be torn down again and detailed in the HT plog as I'm painting it.

It is a smart thing to plan on where exactly the PJ will be. Some go through the whole thing and then say the box is in the way?

nice eggs too.

yeah I wracked my brain playing mental ping pong on pj placement. Waf rested soly on it being out of the way. She felt better watching me do pull ups on the mount, so not only was it out of the way but secure too - she says its still ugly though

oh and now that the pj is in its spot I can start planning the screen

Looks good, too. If that's the planned angle of the projector, the keystoning shouldn't be bad at all.

It's ugly NOW, as a big MDF box there, but give it a nice coat of paint, and it'll look much better. Remember, black is 'slimming'!

The oldest kid says red ( yep his fav color ) and she just said a "neutral" color. Translation: No matter what you do - its still ugly.


I was just messing around in photoshop and black is a top contender.

Was also think about a fake "hanging plant" camo job - with a fake spider plant r something.

been reading through the stripping threads I have manage to find and still going through others etc, and from what I gather - the last layer on each side is the polar? I have a sharp w02 and I want max brightness at the corners.. my question is I guess...

I'm more interested in noticeable difference, not %'s (yet). How much of a noticeable difference would stripping give me - going for nice even brightness across the screen of course.

not sure if the risk would be worth the gain.

Its worth it in my opinion, but its not a game of percentages and cold math. The strip reveals certain subtleties and also increases the overall color transmission. My experience was brighter colors and a good deal more contrast than before. Blacks were better as well.
Read the sections and decide if you can live with it, but it is a crapshoot. Some folks have seen only marginal increases and others have lost the entire panel.

When I make my next unit, I will be stripping it.

SJ

In contrast with SJs experience, I exprienced no improvement whatsoever with AG stripping. Nothing measurable or indeed perceivable (Except that I got rid of the nasty scratch down the middle of the panel)

My recommendation has been and will remain: build the projector, don't strip the panel. Try it. If you see a problem that an AG strip may help with, THEN strip the panel. If you like it as is, don't. Even if you're curious, wouldn't you rather have some before/after information so that you can weight the merits yourself?

Note that there are other problems than "losing the whole panel" that people have experienced with an AG strip. Look up "polar grain" and you'll see that some people have more subtly damaged the polariser with an AG strip, though these tend to be people who have also stripped the TAC layer.

Unlike SJ, more than a few of the people that I've seen touting the benefits of AG stripping have stripped the AG layer before even completing their projectors. So I wonder what their basis for comparison is...

I don't doubt that there are benefits in some cases, and it seems that my LCD may be unusual in more than one way. I still recommend that you at least give it a fair comparison. It should be very little extra effort to remove the panel from your completed projector so that you can give it a fair comparison, and get a more definitive idea of exactly what the benefits are.

Edit: Actually, I'd like to see more before/after photos from which I'd be able to judge for myself what the benefits are, seeing as how I can't really say, having not seen them myself.

hmm.. ok I'll keep the lcd unstripped and in the event that I wantr a striped one I'll pony up for another lcd and strip that. Figure if I break the lcd then I dont loose my working pj, and if I dont mess it up and its good to go then I have a spare. Eitherw ay I win.

Thanks for the advice guys,

just showed my 4yr old how tall Shrek will be on the pj vs the tv... tv: 14.75"v pj: 60"v his response: that tall on the projector? thats tiny"

Well the mega kit came today. verything looks to be in ord...wait, whats this? OH NOOOOOO pulverized T15 !!!!

Yep - bulb is smashed into shrapnel.

Called Bennie and all is taken care of though, so the new bulb is on its way no hassle. Gata love LL cs Bennie's the man

wow - it seems I actually was able to present a solution to solve a problem for some one. W<W<W<W isnt important I'm just posting to say it feels good to know you can give back tot he community now and then

ok working up an alternate design tot he box base don a couple things:

Adjustability
Adjustability
Adjustability

I'll post .dwg of what I come up with.

This looks nice.
Are you gonna paint the box? Looking forward to see your sketches later

black inside for sure, not sure about out side though. I have to do somethign that will make it look better

SHRAPNEL!!



hmm

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The wire & a plan man

ok you saw the carnage, you've seen the megakit save fresnels that are still in boxes ( 3dlens)

The wire is stuff I've had left from redoing my folks house a while ago. Solid copper etc etc. to much for in case wiring?

Ok focusing mech is done, and the trip is installed into it. Basic shower drain ala Tescorp.

I opened up the back with a wire brush on a die grinder running at 110psi - yeah I was covered. Finished it up with some 80 grit and wala. I'll edit in a pic when the wife allows me to use the holy camera.

this is the bottom (top most picture mind you) of the triplet assembly. I honed out the inside and outer lips with a wire wheel at 110psi line pressure. smoothed it out by hand and there doesnt seem to be any bottle neck.


next pic is reflective layer all gone thanks for JJ in this thread

.

Umm... uh oh, was thinking after I wrote this

and came up with this

well I was just measureing ( yet again) and the trip to lcd distance is fine, however the reaf fresnel to light but the bulb right between the rear 3/4 dowls. so I have 2 choices: Shield the dowls ala shower bar or build the light bow to fit between them

what I think I'm going to do for the same of time, and impatients is:

1/4" ply with the dados in it for the lcd and fresnel+ lexan. ( btw I'm a bit puzzled - does the t15 from LL have uv shield or no? either way good for heat shield none the less. ) colminator fresnel will pivot in the center of its mount OR sway from zip ties for gravity keystone not sure
that will get me up and running while I fabricate the adjuster mechs and the light box.

thoughts?

btw light box vs light gate, I get the gate part - whats the benefit though?

WOOOHOOO

I have been trying to figure out how to mount threaded rod, this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. I was thinking of how to use wood with nuts inserted so a turn of the rod would move the frame, then I figured it would be stressing the fresnels ( 2 rods in the center for minimum movement needed ) so that idea combined with this is going to rock. UNLESS only having 2 1/4 rod will cause them to flex then I'll use 4.
Hell I eaven have some smooth aluminum rod in the garage for the hanger . Found my sled design.

NOW I have to widen the enclosure which means new 3/4 dowls,front and back panels. thats fine its the easy parts and I need that shower rod probably anyway. I'll paint it after I get every thing centered. Good god I love this forum ( yep I'm excited )

ok figured I still have enough 1/4" ply to cover the enclosure and make frames so thats what I'm going to do. I'll make the sled then I'll recut the dowels and face plates.

well I would like to avoid this and I belive I found a way. the 15.4" does fit, I just need to design the chasi to have the pj_mounts attached to the pj on the top and bottom and the frames will have thier mounts on corners like an H

new render, better I think

HAHA, love your eggs!

The controller is in so now all I need is the new bulb ( see carnage above) and I'm set for hardware. now all I need to do is decid eon light box or not and get the chasi built. I managed to arrange to barrow a router to make the frames.

quick note - stalled again for a bit - going to get the router tomarrow I think and will start putting this baby together.

ok - to day i start pre assembaly -

issues at hand:

1) Adapting a 400w ATX PSU
() NO converter for controller board - Johnzo said do to the complaints he ha sbeen having
about them he has discontinuing it. How ever I do have multiple converters from other
stuff I can cannibalize and I solder well enough.
2) Frames for the lcd / Fresnel
() This is just a matter of putting the work in.

3) light box / flashing
() Still not sure what I'm going to do here. I have a shower just off the kitchen I use for a
deep sink & mops etc etc I can use that rod for dowel shielding and center the light
between the dowels ( either way it has to be do to measurements) . The router will
com in handy here. Now that I have access tot he router I'm going to rebuild the
enclosure from the extra MDF I set aside to do this. in the mean time I want to watch
my pj.

4) getting everything centered.

Bulb came today and I'm measuring it up - it seems from my measurements that the center of the bulb is 7 1/8" from the base of the mogul - the center of the enclosure is 7" exactly. It seems what I will have to do it rout a 1/8" deep x 2" tall x 4" wide oval in the area where I want to put the adjustment for the bulb ( Much akin to tescorps' design sans circular base). It doesn't seem that I have any room to build an actual box. My next enclosure is going to be wider to allow to light box and the design I have in mind for the fresnals and enclosure face plates.

That's the same measurement that I got. I ground 1/4" off of the bottom of my mogul base in order to make it fit for my first 15" pj. I made my pro lens projector a bit wider so as not to have the problem.

Well I'm a XXXX idiot. I spliced the barrel of an old AC adapter form a dead printer onto a molex connector. Being sure I had it all set to go polarity 12v etc I tried to fire it up.. nothing - save the small wisp of smoke at the molex / barrel wire splice. ACK!!! ok turns out I screwed up and the hot was stuffed in to the +5v. ok the instant I saw the smoke I pulled the plug and checked the controller - it wasn't hot, warm but not hot. looked at the bottom and top - nothing would suggest meltdown. I smelled it - wife took a shot at it ( grounded etc etc for sure at least I did that right). is it dead? I was moving an old scanner and saw the ac adapter was 12v 1250ma with (-) ---(* ---(+) polarity. I tried it and nothing.

I'm not 100% but it may be toast. I'm handy with solder wick and an iron so unless I can fix the board my self or a miracle happens the pj dies here.

options?

If you fed the circut 12V DC down a 5V DC line then probably something blew, unless the circut used protection diodes to stop the overflow, in that case switching the diodes may fix the problem. If you put 5V DC down a 12V DC line then nothing should have died. The amperage of the adaptor would have nothing to do with this case since the amperage is potential draw, not forced push.

I hope this doesnt end here, which controller was it?

If someone has a schmatic for the power section of it I can tell you what would have died and how easy it would be to fix it.

Pixelworks GF-pw106-d 1.2

the same one form the group buy

oh and it was +5 fed down the +12

I am going to PM Johnzo to see if I can get specific information about the controller, if you could take close up pics of the front and back of the board near the power connector I maybe able to answer my own questions

pm to Johnzo sent