small projection onto wall,not a smooth surface
Colour is surprisingly with good skin tones

Led on small heatsink is easily keep cool by PJ fan on Low setting

.

Very cool project you are working on by having the lighting externally. Thought of doing that with a fiber optic bundle but never got around to it - had to get to other priorities (as you all have experienced ). Great idea w/ those large lenses back to back (like a ball lens). Would be interesting to see some pics of your P7 with that lens setup and just the light output (outside of the projector - curious to see the light pattern). A lux meter would also be of a big help to you since you are trying to optimize your setup. Keep up the good work!

I checked the light pattern from the lens before fitting
It was possible to see the image of the 4 led's in the P7
a little fuzzy but quite plain

Sorry, I never took any pics

Hello,

The new for me is :

I received my 20W led with power supply, i just have to buy some resistor and cut off lampe detection for the
projector.
My first test is on a SANYO Z2 with 135W and 1000Lumens, i don't hope to have good result,
the lens i buy on dealextreme can not allow me to use this led on DLP projector (Infocus X2).

I have to found better lens to have one small spot light....

Second i just send money to the edison edistar LED 50Watts.
It is about 165$ for led, PCB and power supply.

I hope with this 50w led i have really good result without lens on the SANYO Z2...

Normally a starting 20w test in the end of the next week and i hope to received the
led in about 2-3weeks.

I keep you inform.

regards,
Vincent

Reflex what would you say the size of that image is??

That 50W with the Sanyo and its LCDs should be really good. The numbers on the datasheet are interesting regarding the expected lifetime and core temperature on page 11. Shows how important good thermal control is.

ftp://59.124.8.220/ftp/Datasheet/EdiStar/...es_Eng_v1.3.pdf

About 28"

Here is a 49" TV Picture on my screen (just taken)

It looks brighter via the camera, than it is to me

I have still to build a Constant Current driver,
atm its driven from a 12.6V 2200mah Li-Po battery
and 2ohm wirewound resistor.
So I might be able to squeeze a little more brightness from it.

But I'm sure one Led won't be enough for me.
I have some lenses on order, when they come
I'll give 3 Led's and prism a try.

Wow, great work! My sharp projector should finally arrive tomorrow, I will upload disassembly pics and my led setup once I get the lamp detection bypassed. I plan on driving my Seoul P7 LED at full voltage and amperage, mounted on a heatsink. I have a similar size P3 Heatsink, will it be adequate at this power level?

-aquastrike

I finally finished my LED DLP XGA project. I am using SSC P7 with a PSP power adapter 2A 5V =10W in theory. Using a 2.8A current regulator.
Meature the voltage runing with 3.5V and Current 2.48A = 8.68W.
It seems not that bright, not as good as original lamp. But still acceptable.
See attached photos. I will upload the LED setup later.

Another one with playing movie.
The left bottom conner is my laptop for reference the image size.

great job for your led with PSP power supply, i think this power supply is great because it is
small.

could you explain us how you obtain 2,8A with a 2A PSP power supply i don't really understand.
(5V x 2A) = 10W so able to do (3,6V x 2,7A)=10W ?

I just received yesteday my 50W Edison LED with power supply
but missing PCB (no luck for me).

I have to :

- Remove the lamp detection on the Sanyo Z2
- Install the led and PCB on P4 Heatsink.
- Found a way to using power supply from projector to power on the fan on the heatsink (3V i think)
- Make some test of temperature (because the temperature is directly linked with the
life of the led).

I first i try the 20W led with Sanyo just for test.

I try to post all my results on this forum.

Vincent

If you keep it in the "Lamp" area it should be ok.

mines still on "whisper" mode (low fan speed) and no blown Led yet ......
must try harder

For proper airflow you may need the "Lamp" Cover in place
I advise to keep a check on the Led temp. until your sure its ok

I am not sure how the adaptor works, but I did meature the flowing current = 2.5A and the voltage=3.5V.
The 2A adaptor can be dragged more than 2A current, but the voltage will drop, as long as the total watt is below 10W.

Mr. Electrodacus also has the following post in another thread:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=286754




that's all in theory, not sure why i can only get 8.6W.

Hi. it would be nice to see

how others have arranged the optics ..........

Update ?

I need to see if the 50W led is worth the price
the specs. are good, is there enough brightness ?

Hello,

I don't have received the PCB for my first 50W led so i'm unable to try it.

I have try the 20W led from dealextreme but i have fixing it to a heatsink with fan
because the heat is very hight when light on

Now i have to modify Z2 lamp detection and find a way to found 12V inside the Z2....

Of course before the end of the week, i post a lot of picture of 20 and 50w led, i promise.

regards,
Vincent

Cheers Vincent

Today. I have been looking at Prisms

I removed prisms from a faulty Hitachi CPX275 and Infocus LP260

My idea to combine 3 x P7 led's won't work
the prisms have colour filtered inputs, the prism reflectors are tinted.

So I still need a solution for 3 (more or less) x P7 at the same "effective" focal length
anyone any ideas ?

Perhaps I'm asking the impossible ?

I'm an electronics engineer , not Optics

Google searches show nothing
am I barking up the wrong tree?

Is it too early for LED's yet
maybe we need a few more Led generations
to get the output we need ?

Here is my SSC P7 LED setup. Photo is showing the lamp house, with original lamp bulb removed. LED is behind the small heatsink on the left, right facing the light tunnel. It is a small light tunnel with diameter around 2cm. It can only fit in 1 LED. After the Light tunnel, it is the color wheel. Mr. Reflex seems having a good idea to fit 3 LED for 3 LCD projector, but for my DLP PJ, I can not find a way to fit in the small light tunnel before the color wheel.

Right hand side is the 2.8A current regulator, I have attached it with small heatsink on both side, since it is quite hot when it is working. The other side of the regulator is attached straight with the PSP adaptor.

Both LED and regulator are cooled down by two fans in the lamp house, originally used to cool down the lamp bulb.

Dears All,

My led 20W with heatsink and small fan...

I make test but my resistor is not enough powerful



I haven't try yet this one because i need the PCB but i hope
received it before the end of the week.



And the power supply specially for the 50W led.



La thing very funny :

I have received the led with missing PCB, i call edison and
they send me another new led (i keep the old one) with
2 pcb...So i have 2 50Leds that's great

I have all the shematicks to modify the sanyo Z2.

I make the test this week and post some photos.

Thanks for all the poeple to exchange her experience is led modding.

Vincent

where can I get the Ostar LED's in Canada? And do I install only one or can I install a few of them? Will it make a difference.

I actually tried a 200 watt halogen just to see if i could do it and it worked. however the colors are horrible since the light is not really white imo.

So i received my 50w led with PCB in the end of this week.

But i try some test with different lens...

So i try with the 20w led from Dealextreme, i put it on a graphic card heatsink with a lens from dealextreme too
and turn it on :



After some test the better results is done by using a double lens in opposite position like this
lens 1 lens2 & 3
LED |) (| |)

the lens 1 are directly after the led

the lens 2 and for have about 8mm distance between itself

and the distance between lens 1 and lens 2&3 is about 20mm


I think, as i see on this forum, the better ways is to use very fat lens with diameter about 40mm to keep all the light
from the led.

So this is a picture of my result :
(a light is open on the next room and the size of the screen is 50cm by 35cm so really small)



One point very important, my led don't fuuly light on, only 50% of the led is light on (so about 400lumens) , i don't know why
maybe my resistor have burn...so you can get better result with good led.

I maybe done another test but i prefert waiting for my 3200lumens led, i hope with good lens i could be able to have
the same result than Xenon 35w.

Vincent

Where does one get a 3200 Lumens LED? What Model is it?

Hello,

The Model Is 50W Edison led (not really 50W in fact a little upper)

You an get it directly from the producer :

http://www.edison-opto.com.tw/products_det...y=1&cno=111

Just send a mail and you've got the price.

But becaful of the duty charge because they use Fedex for shipping.

Regards,
Vincent

Great, Thanks for the info. Can't wait to try this out. Is it possible to simply install the LED right at the Light Tunnel ( I think that's what it is) and get good results.
I have an Infocus Screenplay 4805 and it's fairly simple to work on.

No problem i give all info you need.

The led have to be as closer as you can to the color wheel.

If you what good result , take the OSRAM OSTAR at 1100lumens and take a lens with shorter angle of view like 10 or 12°
i think with this you could able to have excellent result...but this depending of the caracteristics of your projector.

My infocus X2 was really simple to shunt detection of lamp and color whell i jsu remove the two octocopler and just plus a cable
to have contact.

regards,
Vincent

You can see if DigiKey sends there.

http://parts.digikey.ca/1/1/1296590-led-os...-pzqz-4c8f.html
http://parts.digikey.ca/1/1/1296590-led-os...-pzqz-4c8f.html

I only installed one to keep the setup simple (and to fit it w/ a heatsink). I'm sure you can be creative and do multiple if you can fit but then the optical design becomes more complex. Can also do watercooling as mentioned before. Also not sure if the Ostars or the P7 would be better in a multiple design setup - theoretical question for the EE's out there .

Is there anything wrong with the edison Opto LED? Specs say its 3200 lumens. isn't that better than 1100 lumens? It's 90 degrees tho.

As far as mounting the LED it will not be an issue. I have access to a milling machine and can make anything to mount the LED and whatever else needs to be in there as well.

I don't mind modding something as long as i know I am using the latest or best parts for the job. That is why I am taking my time selecting the LED. Cree, Ostar or Edison?

Edison seems to have the most powerful LED on the market as far as I can tell. am I wrong?
Wouldn't it make sense to over engineer and not use all the power and have the LED last even longer?

There is a big difference between 1100 lm in the Ostar and 3200 lm in the edison. Question is,is the Edison overkill?

Originally the Screenplay 4805 is only 750 lumens so technically 1100 lm would be plenty. and as far as I can tell, a lot of the light-source in my Projector is wasted by design. Seems like a brute force approach with lots of power and not so great output.

I am new to the internal workings of the optical world of projection and would appreciate any input.

Thanks

Regarding the modding, I actually was thinking more so modding the projector so you can install a larger heatsink. If you go with the Edison (at full power) or multiple Ostars or Crees (or is the the Seoul P7 you are referring to?), I think either you have to go with a massive heatsink and fan at low speed, watercooling or a smaller heatsink spinning at a ridiculous speed (affecting your home theater experience).

The logic about the Edison makes sense but then again you go back to what led design has the best emitter layout and optical design best suited for your application. Photon to Photon, if all the light could be used that gets emitted from the Edison, then it would be great. But if it is wasting light because the majority of it can not be gathered, then it is not wise to spend the extra money. Bottom line is (I don't think) anyone has tested the Edison out here and supposedly the DLP is less forgiving with the light acceptance angle than a LCD projector.

I believe the 750 lumens is measured at the screen and not at the light source. That being the case, after the Ostar passes through all of the lenses, it is only a fraction of what it began as. Again supporting, the more light your light source can emit and be captured and used in a way best suited for the DLP or LCD, the better.

Just found a new LED light source PhlatLight, which gives over 3000 white lumens at 8000K color temperature from a single RGB chipset.

http://www.luminus.com/content1092

They also have Evaluation Kits available for purchase, which includes driving boards, heatsinks, and 2 PhlatLight RGB chipsets.

http://www.luminus.com/content1093

3 individual light chipsets can be fit directly to the 3 LCDs for a commercial projector. For DLP projector, it can be used to replace the complete color wheel module, with programming the RGB emitters to be lit on in turn, in a high frequency to simulate the spinning of the color wheel.

hi,

i`m looking forward to see pictures from experimenting with 50W module. I`m also considering to mod my projector and i think i need about 7000lumens to gain original 1000lumens output. I do not know if opto delivers mentioned 100W modules, but i`ve came to this :

http://www.diytrade.com/china/4/products/3...r_led_chip.html

I agree completely with mados123

it's not the raw light output , but the amount of collected light
which is fed to the triplet that matters.

I'd advise anyone to try a Single LED first, and note how critical the LED and lens position is for max. projector light output.

Large LED arrays are not going to be able, to be focused to collect the full light output.

My thoughts are still with combining multiple high power LED's
at the same "effective" focal point.

I may not be able to achieve it , but I haven't given up yet ...................

Sent in a request for price and more info. 100W LED, crap that is a lot. I remember when I could only get tiny LEDS that barely even lit up.

Hello,

For DLP you must use like osram ostar type because you need very small point of light
to have all light inside the light tunnel.

For 3LCD you could use Multi chip like edison because you need a largest area like
electrodracus explain (a area 5cmx5cm at 50cm), i have try to put the led closer
to the first fresnel on Sanyo Z2 and the result isn't good i have to move back about 1cm.

So use the led depending of witch projector you used

Last Thing Most of modding for DLP or 3LCD is done by 35W xenon HID (sometime 55W)
and the Xenon 35W produce 3000lumens...so with 50W edison i think it is engouth to have
good result....and remember that with a led all the light go in the same direction with
120° angle but the xenon is like the UHP you lost some light because they good all around
the bulb (360°).

I hope my english is understandable,
Vincent

This Company claims they have up to 500 Watt Led chips.
http://www.powermark.com.cn/product/chips.html

and they also have prebuilt lamps with adjustable angle and heatsinks up to 1000watts
http://www.powermark.com.cn/product/lamp.html

I am going to send them an email but in the meantime does anyone know anything about them or where to buy these?

Got a reply from Edison about the 50W LED.

"Thanks for your contact.

For easy installation, I recommend you the CuPCB type instead of emitter only. The sample price for you will be:
1. ENSW-05-0707-EB……..50W cool white, CuPCB……USD 85/pcs
2. Freight cost……………………….USD 55/pcs
FOB TAIWAN, TT in advance"

55 $ USD for shipping!!!! They on drugs?

Also they request company info and design details..............Just sell me the damn thing!!!

Nice projector I will use only one lens in your case I believe you will get the best light collection in this way.
And for the other the edison LEDs are not good for projector because you could not collect the light from this big LED.
you will get more light output with a 3W led and one lens then you can get from 50W edinson or similar.

Hi Vincent, can you remove the color wheel sync octocopler for a DLP projector? If so, there won't be any color in the projected image.

Hello MickeyJC,

In my Infocus X2 i remove 2 octocopler one for the lamp and one for the light sensor.

For the Edison 50W i have to use big lens with 55cm to collect all the light in one big point, because
with one small point it don't work.

That electrodrakus say is right for DLP not for 3 LCD....DLP need 4mm diameter spot but LCD
need 2-3cm (depending on fresnel size) spot.

And to finish i think it is possible to have good result with X2 using 2 led for dealextreme at 20w
and collect the lgiht in one point with one lens....regarding to my result using a bad led i think
with two i could have very good result, the problem is to place it to add the two spot of light.

vincent

My first thought was multiple LED/Mirror setup. Configured properly you can actually use very little space too. The closer the mirror is to the LED the smaller it can be.

What do you think?

I`ve just received the response from Powermark with product catalogue, without prices though

"Very nice get your information via the www.globalmarket.com. And learn that your company do business in range of LED, our company is specialize in produing LED lamp for more than 5 years ,and we have 3 factories in China mainland, Shenzhen, Shanghai and Ningbo. Our products range including: Power LEDs, from 1W to 200w,;LED spot light,from 1w to 10W, all kinds of base; LED down light; LED tube;LED flood light;LED wallwasher;lLED street light…….ect.

In the past 5 yesrs, our products export to many countries, especially in Europe. And we have the CE and Rohs certification.

You can learn more about us and the products at our website: www.better-led.com

If any question pls feel free to contact me

Thank you in advance

Best regards"

That could work and would be interesting. Still would need a lens though in front of the LED so it would be LED, lens, mirror, common focal point. Not sure about the very little space though with each heatsink included. Again, can be created outside the projector and "Guided" in.

Thanks electrodacus

I tried first with one lens but best results were with two "back to back" as shown.

again, I agree about the large multi LED arrays.

Only parallel light beams will pass through the light tunnel to enter the Triplet
and get to the screen , DLP or LCD.

Hence my concentration on a multi P7 setup ,but ALL the LED's must have the same "effective
focal point" for this to work.

I even tried Boiling a Prism in water to split it, so I could remove the colour filtering !

I have 5 x P7's here , If only I could combine 3 together
the results would be good

A combining prism from a 3 LCD projector combines the light of three different wavelength using two different dichroic coatings on the prisms joining surfaces. The key to this working is that one coating is a high pass filter, allowing green and blue light to pass and red light to reflect. The other is a low pass, allowing red and green light to pass and blue light to reflect.
Click to view attachment
If you were to remove these coatings the prism would no longer combine. In other words it is not the prisms that combines, it’s the crossed dichroic filters. The prisms just so happens to be the shape of the supporting structure.

DJ

I`ve got the prices for the chips today :

50W - 73USD
70W - 82USD
100W - 117USD
150W - 176USD
200W - 235USD

Does anyone know about thermal management of these high power LEDs?

Dazzzla many thanks for the explanation

I'll drop that idea

Ideally you should be using RGB leds rather than white - no idea if you can get hold of something (affordable) that has a sufficient level of output though...

LED chips I`ve writen about are available in R/G/B also.