OK but I can't buy it becouse it selled.:S ( Infocus LP820)
**** but i found another .
Its only svga and it has'n component in but very cheap
What do you think about this ? it has no lamp is it problem to disable chekker elektronik ?
http://www.vatera.hu/item/view/index.php?cod=87873060


And where can i buy cheap hd ready xga or wide xga or etc projektor with component or dvi imput projektor for led mod ? of course in hungary:D or cheap transport.
My philips XGA has green if i want to projekting black. The tft is KO ? or any filter ? can I rapair it ? I can make some picture for present the problem.

Hello electrodacus,

so is my shema right now ?



but i think that i can not found one 48ohm resistor...i have
to link two or three in serie.

An another thing why take 24V power to 20V led if 20v power
exist on internet ?

regards,
Vincent

I guess you just printed the LED tutorial.
The resistor and LED need to be connected in series not parallel.
R = (Vpowersupply - Vmaxled) / current

Vpowersupply = 24V
Vmaxled = 20V
current = 1A

R=(24-20)/1
R=4 ohm
Presistor=4V *1A= 4W so you need a 5W resistor or more




If you have 20V led and 20V power supply then voltage on resistor will be 0V so you are not able to control the current.
If you don't use a resistor then the LED will take to much current and will burn.

This projector seems to small to be able to use an LED inside (usually you need a CPU heat sink with the high power LED)

I don't now if you can buy from ebay maybe ebay.de
If you can make some pictures maybe I can see the problem.

I now about this LED but is to big and a lot of light will bee lost if you use a lens the best light source is only a point.
for the same price you can buy 4 SSC P7 and you get 3600 lumen with about 40 watt.

You don't need to use Lamp_Enable it will give you an error if you connect this to anything Only connect the Lamp_Lit to GND.

I do not now where the photo diode is but it my be that has other function as to synchronize the color wheel.

I have tried measure the Lamp_enable and Lamp_lit pins, when no lamp was installed, Lamp_enable = 0-5, when it tried to start the lamp, it will send a 5v to the PSU, while the Lamp_lit is below 1v. WHen I installed a lamp, Lamp_enable = 5v, and Lamp_lit = 3.2V. I think Lamp_lit is the return from the lamp PSU telling the motherboard that the lamp is Lit, while Lamp_Enable is sent from the motherboard, asking the PSU to start the Lamp. Hope I am right.

You are right, I believe that the photo diode (light sensor diode) is used to synchronize the color wheel. I had done a test with using the original lamp, when blocking the light sensor diode, the project image will start droping color, and the color wheel has some weird sound, after a while, the lamp will be gone off and the color wheel will stop. I also tried to short the 2 ends of the diode, and build a 5mm LED right facing the sensor, but non of them works, since the attached LED light does not go though the color wheel. Sounds like I have to find a bright replacement light source to activate the light sensor.

You are right then you need to connect the Lamp_Lit to 3.3V pin 2 or pin 7 ( the 15pin connector on page 61)



Sorry that I'm right for this one but I guess a power led will provide enough light

Hello,

i making new example to really understand the led



Could you confirm me it is correct.

Thanks to take your time to answer me

regards,
Vincent

HY!
Here I'm again:D
I found a new projektor cheap:D 16:9 hd ready..... but it has only component input.Can anybody tell me how can i make a cable what I can plug to computer?
component to d-sub like this. --> sony SMF-400 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1215...5p_SVGA_to.html
Im waiting for some picture from the seller. and if the black is good. becouse the lamp is maybe new. but the lamp counter isn't reseted.

Its enought big for mod led ?
Can you help me ? if I buy this projektor ?

This is that:

http://www.vatera.hu/item/view/index.php?cod=88611174

And some link .

http://www.dansdata.com/images/projectors/vplvw10hti320.jpg

http://www.aboutprojectors.com/pdf/sony-vp...10ht-manual.pdf

http://www.aboutprojectors.com/Sony-VPL-VW...-projector.html

Thank's a lot before everthing:D

Seems that your last one should be:
R = ( 20 - 3.8 ) / ( 2.8 + 2.8 ) = 2.89 Ohm
Pr = ( 20 - 3.8 ) * ( 2.8 + 2.8 ) = 90.72 W

Actually, your Pr for your example 1 and 2 should be Pr = Vr * Ir OR: Pr = Ir^2 * R

It seems that there isn't D-SUB (VGA) to Component, they only have Component to RGB (looks like D-Sub socket but not the same signal)
Correct me if I am wrong, anyone?

I think no becouse in the manual are there a cable what I linked and in the manual is for computer signal .
So I think . just 1 type d-sub to component cable is in the word.
I think if there is 2 type its incorrect and can kill some crt projektor.
So what do you think anybody?

And - its cable for connect component to d-sub like an philips projektors what haven't component input but can plug with this cable. so I think just 1 type is in the word.
75 hom and 3 cable or 5 at this time. but what is the other 2 ?

And if 2 type cable its not problem to becouse I have 7900gto video card and it has component out
So what do you think . good is if I buy that projektor if there isn't any problem whith that?


Oh and anybody don't know what I'm talking about at this pdf file 16pahe roght side.
http://www.aboutprojectors.com/pdf/sony-vp...10ht-manual.pdf
See itt and say what do you think I think monitor input mean computer signal and NOT RGB .
RGB is the component out.

And 1 think D-sub and component is too ANALOG signal can any problem whith this ?

It will work with your VGA output you need a Cable like this or you can build one you have R G B and H an V sync.

Hy everbody!
I haven't got any answer about sony pj.
I don't know when can I buy it.

But today at the university I meet whith a boy how can give me some fresnel and lens:D
(for write projektor
this

What do you think . can I build a diy projektor whith power led?
1 or more?
I think it better if I use onlí 1 20w led and take it to the F1 focus point.
Or how can I install more?

I m waiting for all ideas.

And 1more i'm sorry for my terribly english . I'm hungaryan :D

Here i found more about leds, its always interesting to share.

So these led arent "cheap" or energy effective but certainly strong and will fit well on cpu heatsink
http://www.eleclight.cn/power_led_50w_500w.htm - here it will cost 1$ per watt, i think 100watt is the max u can use into a commercial projector, unless you have an enormous water cooler.

to focus the light..

you need to simulate how big you need your convex lense(it must be a lot biger than your led to colimate all the light) and what focus (more spheric mean that u will you need less distance to acheive the focal point) a ball of glass would be too strong for this as an example unless you stick a concave lense on it..

and the concave (wich you may need to adjust) will do the contrary, it will take the small focal point and enlarge it.



Theres also Phatlight used currently for new led projector, these are rgb but i think it cost a lot and you have to redesign the box of your 3lcd projector, skip some stages and add at least 3 perfecly fited lenses to indroduce each color to each dichronic mirror. (i dont think u can skipp the mirror becose it filter the color)

poweressen-

Great examples of how light passed through lenses. Usually only seen with light ray software or drawings. I assume you are using a laser for the light source. How did you get almost 7 parallel lines to project - using scanners?

i asked chuck norris and he told me to google these pics

I think this type of LED are to big you need a small light source to efficiently use with lens.
The ideal light source for a lens will be a point that is infinite small but will work fine with one or two mm will not work with multi point light source.

With the apropriate lenses you can make a 3cm x 3xm square fit a 1\" Lts LCd, or a 1 mm x 1 mm point, you just dont use the right lense, maybe your plastic half spheric lense are too small and bad choice and wrong focus lengh, it work but with two lense of that type you doesnt do what u should normaly acheive with one ideal convex lense.

If one lense concave is 2.5 inch of diameter, and the focal point is 3 inch but with our 180Degrees Led the focal point is not 3inch anymore its a Lot more and even if you acheive the focal point when u hit he Lcd after that its the inverse and not all the light sent to the lcd may reach the projection lense so you need Convex and Concave to keep all the light straight to your Wall

The final 3lcds are 1\" and probaly also the final lense arent very large. What i mean is, you need a perpendicular beam and not just converged into a dot what will later spread becose the inverse of the focal point.
Light like this : ===== not < or > for that you need convex / concave and not a random lense.
Simulating with a program or mats before buying is a must or u will buy all the shop before it fit perfecly.


Also.
Rgb Phlatlight these led are made for projection
they claim 100%, uniform surface emission for high collection efficiency and low optical losses
But the square white led is not 100 % uniform they are more like 60 % uniform so another chalenge await me.. I got an idea right now, a 3rd lense to "unfocus" , then little square led into the led package wont be visible on the screen

With all due respect you will not be able to focus an array of LEDs (30mm *30mm) to a point (1mm*1mm) while still collecting the majority of light from the LED array, magnification will work against you. For example if you were to use a 30mm light source that has a 140° beam angle and chose a condenser lens combination that has a magnification=1, the resulting image of the source would be 30mm and have a 140° beam(same as the source). If you wanted to reduce the image of the source to half its size you would use a condenser lens combination with a magnification of 0.5. But now the beam angle is going to be greater because the image will form much closer to the lens.

Some more info: You will not be able to collimate a light source to the same size as its dimensions. For example, an array of LEDs the same size as the entry aperture of the projector will not collimate to that size. And if it is not collimated, or close to it, the light will not pass through. A very inefficient set up.
The only way to collimate an array of LEDs usefully would be to use individual lenses for each LED in the array.

DJ

This is a Great Topic
A goldmine of info

Thank you to electro' and all the other contributers

Paul

Its a single led with a flat surface of 3cmX3cm and they are the most powerful singe led on the market and the cheapest, converging then collimating isnt a chalenge, the cooling system is becose i dont know many cpu heatsink that can dissipate 400w of heat. But hehe who need a 20000 lumens projector, 4500 is more realist.

I cant prove something without proofs. Brb with 200 $ of led and lens in 2-3 weeks.

Can't say I agree with you on this as I don't believe it is a 3cm x 3cm, single led. More likely, (as seen in your link) it is a surface led with many individual emitters, each with there own light divergence pattern of 100 degree+. After collecting as much light as possible with as many lenses as necessary, you will have a fraction of the original light output. This has been proven time and time again by people far more knowledgeable than me (ie - Electrodacus and Dazzzla). You might as well have a more efficient design that cost less and uses less energy. Collimating is a huge challenge with leds, because of the nature of led design - especially surface emitting packages. And what Dazzzla is referring to is termed technically as "etendue." As wikipedia states "Etendue is important because it never increases in any optical system. A perfect optical system produces an image with the same étendue as the source." More specifically, the size of a light source cannot be demagnified to a size smaller than the light source itself. Not sure if there is "bottlenecking" of photons or what.

Then again, it is your money and since I never have seen these specific leds in practice so it would be interesting to see the results - although the outcome is a little predictable.

BTW- Chuck Norris doesn't use Google. Google refers to Chuck Norris.

Chuck Norris doesn't use Google. Google refers to Chuck Norris, Yes its the basic of the universe
I understand now what electrodacus was trying to say and say again well thats hardcore, i need to think about it.

hi electrodacus,
I finally sucessfully by pass my lamp check circuit. By connecting the Lamp_Lit signal to Ground. I connect Lamp_Lit and Lamp_Enable at the first time, I couldn't verify it works since it also has a light sensor to synchonise the color wheel; I thought it was my DIY halogen lamp was not bright enough to activate the light sensor. Last night, I tried to ground the Lamp_lit, and it works without the original lamp; I use a $1.25 50W halogen spot light, with a 240v - 12v tranformer. The image isn't as bright as the original lamp, it is only 50w halogen; but the DMD and color wheel works perfectly, it is now a fully functional XGA DLP projector without using the original lamp, now I don't have to worry about the Lamp life. The next step is to build up my LED light engine; Today I received my 2.8A 5V SSC P7 LED driver board, i am still waiting for my SSC P7 LED (DealExtreme has delay my order as they were out of supply). And I am planning to use the PSP power adaptor (5V 2A) to work with the light engine combination.

electrodacus seems as if you know much about bypass lamps. I have a 3M S40 that I took apart but its not labeled on the board like most there is nothing as far as lamp lit or anything. It turns on and and the fans run but then the power light blinks red and the lamp led stays on red. This is what it says in the pdf "The lamp does not light.
There is a possibility that the interior portion has become heated. Turn the power OFF and wait
approximately 20 minutes. After the main unit has cooled down, please confirm whether or not
there is blockage of the air passage aperture, whether or not the filter is dirty, and/or whether or
not the peripheral temperature exceeds 35°C, etc. After performing any needed maintenance,
turn the power ON again; if the same display is displayed, then please change the lamp." Yes I know this I have removed the ballast and it still does the same thing there were the 2 power wires going to the ballast and then 4 smaller wires coming backto the main board (1 yellow and 3 brown) got any ideas what to do???

Okay some more information to get this thing going. I measured the 4 wires that came off the ballast I get 3 volts on one of the wires and nothing on the rest whether in standby or turned on. Also something that looked like this
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/20032722..._compliant.html

is this really a thermostat it was right above the light source.

I might have to trick this part too. Anybody have any ideas

this should help

Looks like J2 - E805 socket should do the trick. If it was me, I would try to connect the 3.Lamp Miss to 2.GND

yeah I tried that and the power light stays constant green and the lamp and temp blink red at the same time til I turn it off.

I think I have tried every combination and a bunch of other stuff

there must be something else that needs to be done.

I need to clean the filter HUH

Okay SORRY I am an idiot IT TOTALLY WORKS I just figured something was wrong and thats why the lights were blinking. I just figured stick a flashlight in there so I did. What do you know its shows a picture. Sorry to clog up the thread. I guess its time to get a Cree LED or something

Goog to hear. Congratulations !!

Yeah its kind of funny. The 2 lights were blinking red, (I was thinking Arrrrrr) then I stuck a flashlight in there and saw an image all I had to do was reset the lamp timer and then reset the filter timer and BAM the red lights aren't flashing anymore and it looks normal on the outside one green power led on.

Hello Electrodacus,

i'm just ready to buy the Edison Edistar 50W led.

The problem is that the power supply need to be at 24,5Volt

is it possible to use a 25V power supply because upper it is very difficult
to found one.

best regards,
Vincent
Note: I have received my 20W led and i still waiting about power supply.

Hi, i asked a Phlatlight (Pt120) sample from Luminus, but it cost 3000$ for the Evaluation kit and he said they do not have currently retrofit kit for projector, but hehe i told him that he have to sell the led and i make the kit for myself.

I hope that i will be able to get that for 150 $ or so becose my wallet is waiting for this to start the project.


Vincent666 i dont think .5 volt will change anything, its more about the current that you cant mess around. Cant wait to see your result dude, we counting on you. And Eddison offert a powersupply for their product, for 40 bucks it worth the garantuee to not explose that super led, what kind of heatsink and lens you gona use?

Hello, all! I stumbled upon this thread and was inspired by the sheer simplicity of the retrofit process, and just won a Sharp NoteVision PG-C30XU off ebay. It does 720p/1080i and has dual vga in. Does anyone have any info on bypassing the bulb check? It's not here yet, so I can't crack her open just yet.

ok, this post is the longest I have seen in a long time and all the informations seem somewhat confusing.

My Brother just gave me his old Infocus Smartplay 4805 with the burnt out lamp. From what I can tell it seems rather simple compared to some of the units I have seen here.

Can I mod it to run with LED's cuz the lamp is easily over 200$ and what could/should I do for best results.

To start with, I think you are referring to a ScreenPlay 4805. It is a DLP display. I have had success with the Ostar LED but it is more expensive than the SSC P7 that has been suggested here by electro. Since others have completed DLP LED replacements, I am sure you can too.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/InFocus_Ho...enPlay_4805.htm

Thanks. I did a search for DLP on these forums but it said there were none! ALso did a search for 4805 and that came up with this post and an other that has no info at all. I will be doing more research via Google but do you have a link to more info on DLP modding?

Didn't show up with the searching the forums under LL but did with Google (I think LL searches require more letters than LED & DLP). This is a good primer although I have not been following this post.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25859

The essence of what is trying to be done is the same whether it is DLP or LCD technology. You probably won't find an exact match of how it is done for your projector so you have to start off finding the service manual (to learn how to bypass the lamp monitor), then create a design that will both 1) fit in the space where the lamp is being removed and 2) work optimally with your projector. A lot of trial, error and patience but if you use some of the previous single led designs mentioned (such as shown in the link below and with the Seoul P7) you should be fine. Do not expect the output of the projector to be the same with the LED light source as it would be with the original bulb. Probably won't give you a good image during the day but should be perfectly fine at night. Also, a light meter is an invaluable tool for this project.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...4619&st=250

Thanks again. On that note however, anyone have access to an infocus Screenplay 4805 Service manual?

I did a quick check via Google and did not have luck. The model is specifically referred to SP4805 as seen here
http://www.infocus.com/Support/Products/Pr...ors/SP4805.aspx

I would email the company and ask if they can possibly reply with a copy of specifically the service manual if they have it available (not one of the ones you can down from the website which is not a service manual). If not ask how you can obtain one.

wow ......
I was missing from this forum for some time but it seems is a lot of interest in the LED projectors.
I read the new topics but there are so many and I do not have time right now to answer all.
In general I will say that :

1. LED are not as easy to power as incandescent bulbs and the most important parameter is not voltage but current (you can find a lot of info on the internet about LEDs).
2. Bypassing the Lamp in commercial projectors is not hard even if you don't have the schematic (but is dangerous to work with because of high voltage).
Usually the ballast is a separate PCB with 3 connectors one is very high voltage KV that supply the lamp the other is high voltage hundreds of volts DC and the third one is the one you need to figure out usually is 3 wire or more and one of them is telling the main board that the lamp is working and in order to bypass the lamp you need to connect this signal to GND.
3. Regarding optics as I mentioned before an as you can see from my name "electrodacus" electricity is no problem for me but I'm not an expert in optics.
some thing that I learned about optics:
- DAZZZLA is always right
- for the best efficiency you will need a small size light source the best I found are the CREE 3W LED's that I used in my projector but 3W is usually not enough so more will be needed and this will complicate the design, a good compromise is the SSC P7 with 4 emitters, about 4x the size of CREE emitter but will be essayer than using 4xCREE LED's and usually this will be enough for a projector in a dark room with max 2m(80inch) diagonal.

Hmm. small light source at a defined small focal point needed
but one LED is not yet powerful enough to completely replace the UHP lamp.

How about 3 Led's and an output Prism from a 3LCD projector

Operating in reverse the Prism could be used to combine the 3 high power Led's
into a high power beam with all 3 Led's at the same effective focal point

Is this too simplistic or are the losses to high ?

Need too much space and will not be able to do so without modifying the projector's light engine space. Let's say space wasn't an issue, I believe there is 10-15% transmission loss, per entrance (so 30-45% total) if you are lucky. So if you used the P7's and say optimistically you can get 900 lumens/unit, 2700 lumens total, you would get 1,485-1,890 lumens vs. one unit at 900. Seems like a lot of work to get those gains. I like the idea but too complex (alignment w/ prism, etc.) and space consuming for retrofitting DLP projectors.

Regarding a small focal point, I believe that is unique to the DLP retrofits. With the LCD projectors (including DIY's), electro and others have shown that it doesn't necessarily have to be that small but rather evenly spread across the location of inception after the LED collimating lens/lenses (and bright too!).

Thanks. I was thinking about fitting the Led's and Prism externally
then using a 45 degree mirror in the Lamp area to direct the light into the projector unit

Alignment could be done 1 Led at a time to optimize each output

I have a few working LCD projectors here
and have determined how to overide the Lamp cct's

1,500 lumens will be better than 900
so perhaps worth a try.

My P7 Led's are here

I choose a working Hitachi CP-X250 to modify
mainly because the Lamp is fitted from the top
so it makes the PJ controls easy to access.

I disconnected the Ballast PCB first, bypassed the Lamp ON signal and fixed the Lamp door switch.
This allowed me to power the unit without a Lamp or High Voltage ballast voltages.

I thought it better to start this project gently with one P7 and see what light output could be produced.

I also wanted to know the effect of a mirror at 45 degrees fitted in the Lamp area
and the light source outside the PJ.
I tried the mirror first and got fair results then added two lens back to back, with much better results.
lenses http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13618

I soon learnt how critical it was to position the lens and Led

Now to try Lens and Led direct into the Lamp bay
similar results were eventually obtained to the mirror version.

I'll try to post some pics

more