Yes I was actually thinking on using the LED on the electrical car that I will like to build using 4 hub electric motors similar to that used in electric scooters but right now I don't have the money .......
The most complicated part will be to see if I can use this car as street legal. but this is for a different forum .

Now only 23$ for this SSC P7 LED

I'm wanting to retrofit my infocus 4805 lamp with a one ssc p7. Can I use this driver for constant current regulated supply? My plan is to modify the existing lamp reflector for the P7, add a heat sink and a power supply for the P7 driver board. Is 1 P7 going to be enough for a commercial DLP projector? The projector is in a light controlled room, so I can make it very dark if I have to.

The regulated supply seem to be fine but you can not use the existing lamp reflector is not designed for LED an it will not work you will need to use some lenses this will be fine Lens or similar you will need a narrow beam the spot need to be less than 8cm from 1m .
The P7 will be more than enough I have 23lumen on my projector and is usable even during the day at 60" diagonal an 90" in a dark room but you will get probably a minimum of 50 lumen from a single P7 .

PS: you can see that I got 17 lumen from only one 3W LED so with 10W you will get 3 times more so minim 50 lumen

Hello, this is my first post here, id like to say thanks for your detailled post about your research on changing a Bulb by a led into a projector, its unique, very awesome, extremly cheap for longterm use, its wow.
Im going foward to that way too, used Dlp projector, four SSC p7 13watt led (6300k) mounted on a am2 heatsink(with fan)
This will need 4 metal reflector and 4 lens to the top of it,maybe more im starting to gain the money first, but i seen in the p7 manual the led must be stored in an environement inferior to 30 % humidity.
Lets just hope its not also the max humidity for operating it.
One question, is possible to get a 8-10 feet large screen from your projector?

Hy poweressen I'm glad you find my PLOG useful and good to see more people using LED the P7 is the best LED for converting projectors .
I do not believe that you can use a reflector together with a lens I also checked the possibility and it seems that the best option is to use lenses .
One CPU heatsink with fan will be enough for 4 x P7 even the LED are not 13W are only 2800mA x max 4V 11.2W but this LED are more like 10W and I will suggest not to exceed the 10W limit if you want to use them for a long time and about 30% humidity this is referring to all electronic component that need to be soldered because the leads suffer from oxidation at high humidity faster, but after are soldered there is no problem and you probably will buy a LEDs that are already soldered to a small heatsink.
The largest screen because of my small room dimensions is only about 6,5 feet but for 23 lumen this is also about maximum if you using the projector in a dark room.
Depending on what projector you will use (older DLP are not so great at light efficiency) you will probably get much more then me.
Maybe is more efficient to use only one LED you will need a laser like light

I cant wait to spend hours and hours on tweaking those leds.
Im gona transfer the $$ on paypal friday and start bidding an efficient Dlp projector on ebay. I pray the prisms are not broken like your big projector.
Can you imagine all the girls i will get at home for watching movies =P rawr

On DLP you do not have prism since you have only one DLP chip and a color wheel (there are 3 chip DLP projectors but are not so common and much more expensive) .
You may notice some flicker on DLP projectors because of the way DLP projectors are build some people do not notice the flicker for others is annoying (according to statistics you will not lose to may girls )
About DLP projectors
Good luck with the build.

electrodacus.

Been following your PLOG for a while and all I can say is your work and research is excellent. You inspired me to get started on a project. I am curious to know what you and the other members think about using any of the following parts for a projector conversion project (and possibly in combination)?

Currently I have available:

(2) Ostar LEW E3B - 580 lumens @ 700 mA, 15W, 6mm diagonal size of all emitters http://tinyurl.com/4dm26l
(1) Ostar LEUWE3B - 1,100 lumens @ 1A, 22.3W, 6mm diagonal size of all emitters http://tinyurl.com/4m35ld
(1) Lamina Titan - 1,360 lumens @ 1.4A, 30.2W, ~1" diameter includes all emitters http://tinyurl.com/53ksqz

Ledistar-L Lenses - 16 degrees (+-8, even & diffused lighting) http://www.led-spot.com/p_ostar.shtml
Fraen Reflectors - 8 degrees Narrow Beam (spot and spill, refer to 6 chip design, already taken off primary lens on LEW E3B which can be beneficial with these reflectors) http://www.fraensrl.com/images/Fraen_FRC_Datasheet.pdf
Titan Optics - 20 degree optics (it's kind of large)

A variety of lenses PlanoConvex and aspheric lenses w/ short Focal Lengths.

And I was looking into either of these Sanyos:
Sanyo PLC-XU37 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XU37.htm
Sanyo PLC-XU45 http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sanyo-PLC-XU45.htm

Any input would be greatly appreciated and keep up the great work electro!!!! I am sure your work will help expedite the use of LEDs in DIY Projectors.

Thanks!!!

PS- I hope this isn't seen as hijacking your PLOG. If it is, I will gladly move it to another location.

Hy mados123 you have good material to start with and I will recommend Ostar LEUWE3B - 1,100 lumens @ 1A, 22.3W, 6mm with one big aspheric lens and the reason for using aspheric lenses is that you can get a less than 4 degree angle from lenses and you will need a very small angle for the commercial projectors.
The Sanyo PLC-XU45 is better (more light efficient ) but the first one is not bad also .
If the projector is using only 4 degree an you supply 8 degree then only 25% of the light will be used .
For the 6 chip Ostar a good lens will be 50mm diameter and smaller than 25mm FL but you will experiment and see what you get If you have a luxmeter the best way to test without a projector is to get max lux on a smaller than 7cm spot from one meter .

Electro. Thanks so much for your reply! It is an excellent starting point. As per your advice, I have a luxmeter on order and will proceed with the recommendations. I understand it will require experimenting and will see what I get. Considering the Ostar has a divergence of ~120 degrees, does it need a reflector or primary lens to collect and redirect the straying rays towards the front (and then into an aspheric) or will the oversized aspheric (50mm) be able to straighten out the most wide of rays by itself? I am also considering building a 3.5" lcd panel system instead. If I do use the 3.5" in an enclosure, would you suggest using a different Ostar combination or just the 1,100 lumen one? I figured if I had multiple, side by side, it might provide more distributed lighting - who knows, maybe the 1,100 in the middle and the 580 on the sides. What do you think? Anyways, thanks for your help and great job again on your build!

Don't know if you saw this as it is pretty impressive
http://www.hack247.co.uk/2008/05/28/diy-le...-the-new-batch/

OK I have made some drawing even I'm not to good at this but It will be more easy for me to explain
1) only lens the preferred method "if I'm not wrong"
2)reflector works for flashlight but not to good for projector where you need a small spot light
3)combination reflector and lens (don't work good together ).
4)reflector with a incandescent bulb or any other source light with 360 degree light output.
The LED have a max of 180 degree of light and the most light is in front of the LED and is less on sides.
Most power led have already a lens that make the light output about 80 to 140 degree.

My conclusion is that if you want a spot light with less than 4 degree the best option is to use lenses and for 360 degree light sources the best option will be reflectors but I do not see in what situation a combination of lenses and reflectors will be the best option.
Do not take this explanations as good because I'm just a beginner at most in optics this is only my opinion.

Thanks for the drawings as they give a good sense of the light ray activity. So I assume you are using a single lens in your setup per LED - is that correct? Lastly, I tried figuring out the formula from your past posts the conversion of Lux to Lumens. If you don't mind, can you explain how you get Lumens from Lux. I use the calculator at http://online.unitconverterpro.com/unit-co...at=illumination but then it is only lumens/square centimeter or square foot, etc. What do I do next if I want it specifically converted to Lumens alone? I am sure it is obvious but sometimes I am a dunce. Thanks again!!!

By the way, is your build finished?

I used 2 lenses for each LED but this because I used am array of 7 LEDs and restriction in size the lens are only 22mm in diameter and about 25mm FL so I need 2 to reduce the FL to about half and recover more from LED light but I also have some reflection loss.
The easy way to convert LUX to lumen is to consider 1 square meter with uniform illumination of one lux is one lumen so if you have an area of 10cm x 10cm with uniform illumination of 100lux then you have one lumen is 10cm = 0.1m so 0.1 x 0.1= 0.01 square meter then 0.01sqmx100lux = 1lumen. I'm not to good at explanations and this is not the real formula but is close enough in real formula you need to measure one square meter on a spherical surface.
Yes I consider my build finished and it works with a TV tuner, is the only TV in my apartment. Now I'm working on a peltier element trying to generate electricity using the seebeck effect today I did the first test an got 1.3V at a delta of 40C degree using tap hot and cold water an I need to finish the web page I'm working on www.greensask.com go to projects and Peltier generator if interested
also on the same web page under projects I have a movie with the projector is about one minute that I made today

Great simple explanation for the mathematically challenged like myself.


Congratulations on finishing. You really did a great job.

The Ostar projected about 84,000 Lux and the spot was about 10cm x 10cm which translates into about 840 Lumens. This seems correct when taking into consideration light loss through transmission. Did you ever say what your Lumens were with your final setup before the light went into the lcds? If so, what was that number?

Regarding the peltier setup on your projects page, is it essentially taking the heat out of the water with the peltier and using that energy for the motor and fan? If so, that is pretty cool (no pun intended). I was told that with a Luxeon K2 w TFFC, can be "overamped" to 2.5 amps and peltier cooling to produce 400 Lumens from a 1mm x 1mm emitter surface. That sounds pretty crazy. How do you prevent condensation from forming with those setups?

LINK this is from final setup and I get about 450lumen in the center spot the spot is 30x30cm from a distance of 2.26m and the average illumination is about 5000lux you need to get all the light in a less than 8x8cm spot from 1m distance so the led must be 1m from the projection wall and at what distance from the LED you did this measurement. The 840lumen is really good .
The peltier is used as a generator with about 4% efficiency not to bad
I don't understand what do you mean by condensation if you are not referring to peltier used as a cooler

Some video with the projection screen at 2 meter (80") first video with day light and the second at night Link to video or go to www.greensask.com under projects

electrodacus

I have really enjoyed reading about your experience with using high powered LEDs for your projector project. I just want to say thanks because you probably helped to save a lot of us time and effort in finding the right combination.
If I understand correctly, the last pics you posted was a projector with only 1 LED?
I imagine the room needs to be dark to be effective.
Great work!

The last photos are with only one LED at 800mA about 3W and I get with the second projector about 17 lumen not to bad and if less than 40" then I can watch also during the day. I have a movie during the day with the first projector at 2m about 80" under projects Link GreenSask

Regarding the Ostar, I actually measured this only about 1 foot away. Regarding the peltier and condensation, I was referring to using it as a cooler for a system as mentioned with the relatively high amped Luxeon setup I mentioned.

Is condensation always a problem with cooling or is there a perfect balance that can be found which doesn't need to worry about condensation?

As suggested by you, I picked up the Sanyo PLC-XU45. If you don't mind, I have some questions regarding the lamp monitoring bypass instructions. Below is a link that includes two pictures of the Sanyo's ballast, etc. I would like to take out the ballast, "fool" the system into allowing a different source and be able to use my LEDs. I have seen your earlier diagram that shows how to do this with the other projector. How would you suggest do that with this projector? Do I need a service manual for this or would the photos give you enough information?

Thanks!!!

http://tinyurl.com/6n24lc

I did not used the peltier for cooling but from my understanding using this with CPU is problematic since the CPU generate heat depending on use from only some W in idle to 50W or more W depending on CPU type but with LED will be no problem as they dissipate the same amount of heat all time.
Sorry but your photo do not help me you need to do some better photos with the ballast and not only The ballast need to have some wires connected to and two wires are going to bulb another two are the power an you will have some usually 3 or 4 but may be more and I need some photo on ballast and main board near to where this 3 or for wire are connected you need to have some optical isolator I need some photo with them. I belive the service manual is hard to find and hopefully it is not necessary .

Well, in DIY enthusiast fashion, I couldn't just look at it anymore so I splurged and downloaded the service manual from http://smpcshop.com (couldn't find it anywhere else for free and this was the cheapest site). I will be messing around for it for the next few days. If you see this anytime soon, Electro, any answers to my previous post would be very helpful. Thanks!

Not bad to have the service manual If I can see this will probably help.

Excellent, I will PM over to you the link and here is a snapshot of (I think) an important diagram. Thanks again!!!!

If it will be easy then connecting the Lamp_ERR to GND (pin4 and pin5) will be enough if the software want more then It will be more complicated test first this solution I hope it works and please be careful there are deadly voltages even after you unplug the power cord The 5 wires are not dangerous but the other are .

OMG!!! I tried all combos before except 4 and 5! Pessimistically, I was waiting for it to shut off as it did before but your suggestion worked! I was concerned because I got this off of ebay and was thinking, great, all I need is a DOA projector that I modded. Thanks to you, now I can go to sleep in peace. I will pick up tomorrow by throwing the Ostar LED in. Thanks again!

Glad I could help .

Hi electrodacus

I got a BenQ PB6200 which I want to bypass the ballast control. I can't figure out which pin to short. The service manual of this projecter is here . I was looking at page 98, and intend to short pin 1 and 2 on connector 20D0049108. Is that correct or I need to Gnd pin 2? Your advice is much appreciated.

Regards
gckwang1

Hi electrodacus

I've got a A+K Astrobeam x110.

I took out the balast as shown on the pictures, and there are two wire from the lamp ,two for power supply and three small wire for lamp check, but how do I know which wires to short circut?
The tree wires is green, white and red.


Click to view attachment

Connection on mainboard
Click to view attachment


Connection on balast
Click to view attachment

Looks like a Infocus mainboard.
Click to view attachment

Best regards
Niels

I now found out the voltage between the 3 wires

Click to view attachment

Do you have an idea of which wires i have to short cut??? Is it just the Green / White ??
I've been looking for a service manual, but with no luck

Best regards
Niels

sorry I have some problem with may main PC
I will like to see a close up of the two black identical component on the connexion on ballast but I believe you need to short green and white on the main board you do not need the ballast anymore
My guess is
Red Vcc
white Gnd
green Lamp sensor

page 106 last right down corner pin 2 (Lamplit) to GND

Hi electrodacus

It made it work with the Green/White wires

I've been trying with these lenses http://kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=4167 but I'm not sure it's the right ones.
Do you have a link for the lenses you have used ?

Best regards
Niels

Hi,

I recommend you the lens you showed with this LED SSC P7 only one led and one lens but I used are 22mm lens and I used 2 for each led so a total of 14 lenses but I get better result with only one big lens and one led .

Hi

Do you have some pictures of the LED + lens mount inside the projector (final result). I'm trying to figure out how to make a small unit, that can be ajusted (focal length) from outside the projector.


What about the fans, if I disconnect them, the projector gives a failure. Can I bypass them the same way as the lamp?

Also curious about the fans. Any ideas? Maybe a dummy circuit to "fool" the projector?

I will not want to remove the fans the projector electronics need to be cool it takes about 100W so the fans are needed also the one that is close to the lamp will also help you with cooling the LED in my situation even if I use a Pentium 4 heatsink and removed the original fan I still need the fan in the projector for 14W worth of LED.
The projectors use 3 wire fan two for supply and one for feedback regarding fan speed it may be possible to be bypassed but I don't now how If you goggle the net you may find something.
But my suggestion is to not deactivate the fans.

To remove a fan or two just join the taco wires (yellow?) to another fan that is still in the projector. As to removing all the fans, you would need to build a small circuit to emulate the taco signal. By memory I think it is 4 pulses per revolution. So if the fan is running at 2000rpm, the circuit needs to oscillate at 8000 Hz.

DJ

Thanks, I'll try that. Hate the noise from the fans

I will keep some fans in there too but as for removing some of them, Dazzzla's advice is great. This thread is really becoming priceless - thanks to electro!

Does anyone know what this transistor is Click to view attachment

I broke it today, and tryed to call different electronic dealers to get a new, but they did'nt know what it was? It has a special number (L7135) what can I use as a replacement???

is not a transistor is a 350mA current regulator so if only one is broken remove him and you will just get 350mA less Spec

You are right about the yellow wire .
Nice idea to connect the signal from an working fan.
but I will not recommend removing the fans since most of the projector are 100W+ excluding the bulb and this need ventilation.

Try THIS

I have been using these current regulators and they have been excellent. Small in size (1" x 1" x 1") and isolated.
http://ledsupply.com/wired-buckpuck.php


Regarding the fans, their noise and their possible removal, I understand some are needed to keep the electronics cool but can't a few of them be disconnected because of the over all heat generation being decreased? Or maybe replacing all the little ones with one larger which would spin at a lower RPM and make the noise not be so obtrusive.

Hi electrodacus

I've fighting all night with my projector. I'm not able to get enough light thru it
It's almost imposible to se anything on a screen bigger than 30" at night, and during day you can't see anything at all.

I've been using a single SSC P7 http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721 and this lens http://kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=4167

Did you remove any of the original lenses in your projector or modify anything? change the Integrator-lens?
If you did, can you please help me with some details

what is the distance's you have on your setup, if you are using the same lens as me?
Click to view attachment

Really hope you can help me.

Hi,

with the SSC P7 and the lens you specified you need to get very good result. The distance 2 is not important an you do not need to remove any parts from the projector the distance 1 is really important and you need to test outside the projector you will need a laser like light from the LED + lens combination but the distance 1 (from the flat side of the lens to the top of LED lens) I guess will be from 10mm to 35mm, probably 22mm.
From 1 meter distance you need to get a 10cm or smaller spot using the LED and lens.
You need the LED exactly in the middle of the lens even less than 1mm in any direction will give you bad results.


Edit: I checked the spec of your projector and is about 30% more light efficient then Telex P600 that I use so you will relay get good result The only problem I see is that it is smaller then Telex P600 so it may be hard to get the lens LED and heatsink inside. In my case I was cutting some plastic inside the projector in order to be able to get everything inside.

More great advice above!

Here are some pics of my Ostar (1000 lumen LED) light engine and projector. Still need some tweaking though as the LED is a little off-center inside the projector. Electro, what do you think those red, green and blue specks are from in the photo of the projector's image?

http://tinyurl.com/55plse